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About spiff

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  1. spiff

    Seeking diesel S30's

    I've seen a s30 on YouTube with a Mercedes om606 turbodiesel. Think it was built in Finland
  2. does it flash when you connect it at the ecu?
  3. You ARE using the L28ET ecu are you? If you'r still running the l20e ecu then it will run really rich if you swap to bigger injectors. Been there done that...
  4. spiff

    How to get good AFR targets?

    There's tons of info on this topic around the web, but in short: most engines develop the best performance slightly richer than stoic, na's around 12-13:1 and turbos around 12, maybe 11, some even richer as a safety measure. Idling, most batch fire engines like a slightly rich idle, sequential injection engines can often idle closer to stoic but the important thing is to get a smooth idle, not to chase numbers. Cruising can see leaner afrs 15-16 maybe higher as long as it runs smoothly
  5. Sounds a lot like some dodgy wiring or earthing somewhere. I had a bluebird 910 with the z20e engine that would just stop sometimes, and then all of a sudden it would start and run fine. Was as simple as a loose connection. Your ecu gets it's trigger signal from the coil negative, it's a batch fire setup so it fires all injectors once every revolution, it also needs a crank signal, this comes from the ignition switch or the wire going to the starter from the ign switch. You need to check that you have continuity between coil negative and the tach input on the ecu, also I would check that you have continuity between ign switch crank signal and the corresponding ecu connector pin. If the ecu doesn't see a crank signal it won't fire the injectors either, the only exception to this is if you bumpstart it. EDIT: Have you listened to the injectors while cranking or connected a test light to one so you know it's not opening? Are your sparkplugs dry?
  6. Think I might have misunderstood what you initially meant. Good point, no I'm not sure how many bearings they have.
  7. I ordered a print in nylon, no hubs here in Norway but there where a couple in Sweden and Denmark, so I'm gonna have to wait a little bit longer on shipping but I'm on vacation anyway so... Like I said earlier the guy I spoke to locally could order some plastic with a 120c melting point but I think that might be to close for comfort in this application. For intake ducting or something like that I'm sure it's OK
  8. Here's an interesting story about the use of plastics in engine applications: http://www.assemblymag.com/articles/86440-plastics-under-the-hood Seems Nylon might be the way to go for something like this. I got quoted this from 3dhubs: So yeah, expensive. I paid something of the equivalent of 120usd locally to have some bolt spacers for the 12mm diff center made up, so factor in the material needed for something like this and I guess it's just as expensive if not more here. The family hauler is 2015 Peugeot 308 station wagon and it sure does have alot of plastic underneat the hood, and I also have a Z32 and if plastic can survive the scorching heat underneath that engine bay i'm sure it can survive the relatively drafty datsun engine bay but I need to find out the right material to use, I think that's the most vital clue. Exiting stuff this, I've already started thinking about other uses for 3d printing like cold air intake ducts, intercooler ducting and stuff like that Overall it is a pretty simple shape. I don't know how the machine shops in Norway would work, but you could take some pieces to a machine shop or engine shop here and they could build it for you for a fairly reasonable cost if you supplied the right diameter material.
  9. First I would go to the ego controller and choose "disable" to make sure it's not veal or closed loop thats affecting your idle afr's. Even with it disabled tunerstudio will read af but autotune or any other form of closed loop will not interfere with anything. As far as dead time goes I can't help you but I just used the default tunerstudio 0.9ms on my Z20E (low ohm injectors with resistor pack) and had zero issues.
  10. Smart, are we talking iron particles or how big wold the iron added be? My main concern also is heat, hopefully there will still be some sunny days left when I get back from vacation so I can get some more temperature readings. I see 3dhubs.com is also offering cnc services now so just for the heck of it I've sent a price quote for this part in 6061 aluminium. Less costly alternatives are ABS, Nylon and polycarbonate.
  11. The oil pump shaft doesn't even reach up to the spacer, from the face of the flange down to the shaft the distance is 65mm, if you look at this picture( https://photos.app.goo.gl/EbhlMDl34KjKTMJX2) you can see the end of the cas axle where it slots in to the oil pump shaft just like the standard distributor does. And the cas axle is supported internally like the distributor is too. I don't understand why you would want a bearing in the spacer?
  12. Thanks, I found this article which also explained it and had a few other tips as well http://support.3dverkstan.se/article/38-designing-for-3d-printing Of course billet would be pimp as f... but in the end i have to consider the cost of this and having something printed may be cheaper and just as good for the work intended. With sintered plastics, fiber reinforced and you could even have it printed in metal (but that's probably insanely expensive )
  13. What are filets? I'm not experienced with 3d printing or even designing stuff like this, this is the first one I did. I found a guy in my hometown through 3dhubs.com who printed it for me, this one I think melts at like 100 degrees Celsius, which isn't a lot considering the temperatures I measured on the timing cover and flange and distributor where in the 65-75 range with the engine idling at about 17 degrees ambient temperature. I'm thinking if you suddenly get some hot sunny weather like today with temps at 25-30 it's gonna get real hot under the hood. He could order some plastic that had a melting point of 120 degrees c but I'm still not sure if that's enough what do you think?