Jump to content
HybridZ

beermanpete

Members
  • Content count

    626
  • Donations

    0.00 USD 
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    2
  • Feedback

    0%

beermanpete last won the day on October 26 2013

beermanpete had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

12 Good

About beermanpete

  • Rank
    Junior Member
  • Birthday 07/15/63

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Northridge, CA
  • Interests
    240Z. Sports car racing and time trialing.
  1. The MasterVac is likely leaking when you press the brake and causing a vacuum leak.
  2. Comparing triples to plenum induction

    No mention of the total intake runner length. The triples likely have a longer intake length. If so, it might tune the intake resonance to a lower RPM and broaden the power band.
  3. Is this site dead?

    I am still here but don't post much lately. Facebook? Instagram? What are those?
  4. If you use a fitting on the carb or manifold you need the PCV, otherwise you will create a massive vacuum leak. I agree with Chickenman, replace the PCV. Do not simply block the crankcase block vent. If you do not reinstall a PCV you should run a hose down under the engine and positon the end to be in the air flow while driving and cut an angle on the back side so the front is the low edge. This will cause a draft to pull air in through the cracnkcase, entering at the vent on the valve cover and exiting at the tube below the engine. This will take water vapor and other gasses out of the crankcase. This is called a road draft tube and was common prior the adoptio of the PVC system in the mid-sixties.
  5. That looks the same as my '73.
  6. Fuel system vent

    I don't get the use of the loops in the vent line. It seems that will cause problem by blocking the line with liquid fuel that collects in the low points. We ran a line from the tank to a tee at the fuel filler and then from the tee up above the filler and back down to the outside of the car. I have seem evidence it drips a little when coming off the track if the tank was full at beginning of the session. Other than this it works great.
  7. Brake bleed HELP PLZ?!

    If you are continually getting air and it never purges there is an air leak somewhere. Does the brake pedal pump up at all? If so, pump it up and hold it down whith pressure in the line and see it if sinks slowly. This indicates a leak. Next, inspect the enitre brake system for leaks at each joint and compoment. If there are no fluid leaks the master is bad. As mentioned, caliper mounting with caliper swaps sometimes leads to an arrangement that requires taking the calipers off and holding them with the bleered at the top to properly bleed them. Also, on occassion the left and right calipers get installed on the oppsosite side which places the bleeders at the bottom causing air to get trapped in the calipers.
  8. I don't remember what the return line looks like inside the tank. The return line is smaller than the supply line and may not support enough flow for sustained full throttle operation. Greg's car is a is a '78 (or the tank is at least) and is therefore different than ours. The photos on Blue's website show the sender port on the top of thank where ours is on the front. The sender itself and the lock ring look the same so the technique should work. Position the free end of the pick-up near the baffle and bend the end so it is parallel with the floor of the tank and touching the floor or very close at least to it at least.
  9. On our '73 the pickup tube in the tank cracked or rusted through and caused fuel starvation even while the tank was mostly full. Our solution was to abandon the original pickup and install a new one through the fuel gauge sending unit port using a home made plate and an AN style bulkhead fitting. The plate is the same size as the sending unit and works with the original lock-ring and o-ring. The free end of the new pickup tube is located near the internal baffle and works well. Obviously, this eliminated the fuel gauge.
  10. Wiring

    Sure. I did a minimal rewire on our car for track use. What is your intended use for the car?
  11. There is a voltage regulator built into the gauge. If it is not adjusted correctly it can cause the gauges to oscillate (wave back and forth) or stop working. This adjustment is interactive with the calibration for each of the two gauges in the unit (temp and pressure).
  12. Can I delete this hard line?

    Yes, that is the fuel tank vent. If you remove it you need to rework the tank vent in the rear hatch area on the right side.
  13. Starter Tips

    The 260Z (and perhaps the 280Z) has a lot connections in the circuit path between the battery and the solenoid. The issue is the voltage drop in the circuit gets too high over time and eventually the solenoid will not pull-in reliably. I had to install the "relay mod" on one I had a while ago. i don't know how you did yours but I ran power from the battery cable on the solenoid through a fuse and relay to the solenoid pull-in terminal. It works well. Pulling power from any other circuit could result in the same problem for the same reason, voltage drop across the connections along the way. If the starter motor spins without turning the engine you have a bad over-run clutch (the Bendix as the old timers call it) in the starter. This is unrelated to any wiring issues you may happen to have.
×