Jump to content
HybridZ

beermanpete

Members
  • Posts

    629
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    2

Everything posted by beermanpete

  1. Your car died when you removed the battery cable because the alternator was not able to "keep up" with the current demand and the voltage fell below a point that will keep the fuel injection and ignition systems operating correctly. This does not necessarily indicate a faulty alternator. If the engine were running at a higher RPM it may have stayed running because the alternator can put out more current when the RPM is higher (to a point). The battery supplies current when the alternator cannot and this keeps the voltage up and the car running.
  2. Sorry for the late reply. We first noticed the oil pressure drop when we started using the Falken Azenus RT615K which has a tread wear rating of 200. With "regular" tires we never noticed a problem. With any of the the Comp-R tires the problem is more severe.
  3. Yes, the oil moves away from the pick-up when cornering. We have managed to get by with an extra half-quart of of so of oil beyond the full line on the dip stick.
  4. The MasterVac is likely leaking when you press the brake and causing a vacuum leak.
  5. No mention of the total intake runner length. The triples likely have a longer intake length. If so, it might tune the intake resonance to a lower RPM and broaden the power band.
  6. I am still here but don't post much lately. Facebook? Instagram? What are those?
  7. If you use a fitting on the carb or manifold you need the PCV, otherwise you will create a massive vacuum leak. I agree with Chickenman, replace the PCV. Do not simply block the crankcase block vent. If you do not reinstall a PCV you should run a hose down under the engine and positon the end to be in the air flow while driving and cut an angle on the back side so the front is the low edge. This will cause a draft to pull air in through the cracnkcase, entering at the vent on the valve cover and exiting at the tube below the engine. This will take water vapor and other gasses out of the crankcase. This is called a road draft tube and was common prior the adoptio of the PVC system in the mid-sixties.
  8. I don't get the use of the loops in the vent line. It seems that will cause problem by blocking the line with liquid fuel that collects in the low points. We ran a line from the tank to a tee at the fuel filler and then from the tee up above the filler and back down to the outside of the car. I have seem evidence it drips a little when coming off the track if the tank was full at beginning of the session. Other than this it works great.
  9. If you are continually getting air and it never purges there is an air leak somewhere. Does the brake pedal pump up at all? If so, pump it up and hold it down whith pressure in the line and see it if sinks slowly. This indicates a leak. Next, inspect the enitre brake system for leaks at each joint and compoment. If there are no fluid leaks the master is bad. As mentioned, caliper mounting with caliper swaps sometimes leads to an arrangement that requires taking the calipers off and holding them with the bleered at the top to properly bleed them. Also, on occassion the left and right calipers get installed on the oppsosite side which places the bleeders at the bottom causing air to get trapped in the calipers.
  10. I don't remember what the return line looks like inside the tank. The return line is smaller than the supply line and may not support enough flow for sustained full throttle operation. Greg's car is a is a '78 (or the tank is at least) and is therefore different than ours. The photos on Blue's website show the sender port on the top of thank where ours is on the front. The sender itself and the lock ring look the same so the technique should work. Position the free end of the pick-up near the baffle and bend the end so it is parallel with the floor of the tank and touching the floor or very close at least to it at least.
  11. On our '73 the pickup tube in the tank cracked or rusted through and caused fuel starvation even while the tank was mostly full. Our solution was to abandon the original pickup and install a new one through the fuel gauge sending unit port using a home made plate and an AN style bulkhead fitting. The plate is the same size as the sending unit and works with the original lock-ring and o-ring. The free end of the new pickup tube is located near the internal baffle and works well. Obviously, this eliminated the fuel gauge.
  12. Sure. I did a minimal rewire on our car for track use. What is your intended use for the car?
  13. There is a voltage regulator built into the gauge. If it is not adjusted correctly it can cause the gauges to oscillate (wave back and forth) or stop working. This adjustment is interactive with the calibration for each of the two gauges in the unit (temp and pressure).
  14. Yes, that is the fuel tank vent. If you remove it you need to rework the tank vent in the rear hatch area on the right side.
  15. The 260Z (and perhaps the 280Z) has a lot connections in the circuit path between the battery and the solenoid. The issue is the voltage drop in the circuit gets too high over time and eventually the solenoid will not pull-in reliably. I had to install the "relay mod" on one I had a while ago. i don't know how you did yours but I ran power from the battery cable on the solenoid through a fuse and relay to the solenoid pull-in terminal. It works well. Pulling power from any other circuit could result in the same problem for the same reason, voltage drop across the connections along the way. If the starter motor spins without turning the engine you have a bad over-run clutch (the Bendix as the old timers call it) in the starter. This is unrelated to any wiring issues you may happen to have.
  16. Start with the safety equipment needed for the type of racing you intend to do. The club or organization that runs the racing activity should have a rule book available that spells out the requirements. Also, read the rules regarding what mods are allowed and specifically prohibited for the class you will run in.
  17. Does your car have good throttle response? If it does it is likely running as it should but does not fit your expectations. The Z engine is not peaky and the power falls off in the mid-5000 RPM range. If the Maxima head still has its original cam the power band could be lower still. Driving feel (to me) with the 280 engine (with SU carbs) is that it does not give much sensation of pulling hard because the power band is wide and flat. By contrast, my Miata is peaky and does not make much power until above 4k or so. This makes it feel faster than the Z but I doubt it actually is.
  18. Start by confirming TDC for the #1 cylinder using other means than the timing marks on the pulley. Then look at where the marks on the pulley are in relation to the pointer on the engine. If the engine is running reasonably well the timing is likely close enough that the oil pump is not part of your issue.
  19. We have a Holley Red pump on our car with SU carbs. It works great. We use an in-line regulator that only has two hoses (in and out). A three hose bypass type regulator would be better but the cost is higher.
  20. If you have 12 volts on the negative coil terminal when the points are closed there is an open circuit between the coil and ground. The path is through the wire leading from the coil to distributor body, feed through, internal wire between the feed through and points, points, ground lead within the distributor, distributor body, and engine block. Try using a test light. Connect the ground clip to the negative side of the coil and make sure it lights when toughing the probe to the ground. Next, place the probe on each of the various circuit nodes in the circuit (with the points closed) starting at the coil moving towards the engine block. The light should be out at each node until you get to a point past the break in the circuit. When the light comes on you will know the fault is between the points where the light is off and on.
  21. If you have an oscilloscope use that to view the waveform at the coil. The period will give you the RPM indirectly. 1/T = Hz. Apply the formula above. Have you check the resistor that is in-line with the signal to the tach? There is a 2.2k Ohm resistor buried in the wire harness in the passenger foot well area in series with the signal wire to the tach. It looks like an in-line fuse holder.
  22. Hertz will not directly equal RPM. Assuming the frequency meter reads each plug firing event as one cycle you can calculate RPM from the frequency (Hz) using this formula: Hz x 20 = RPM. Hz RPM 50 1000 75 1500 100 2000
×
×
  • Create New...