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beermanpete

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Everything posted by beermanpete

  1. The tach won't drive an LED directly. A driver circuit could be designed and built but then you might as well do it independantly of the tach.
  2. I successfully reused the seal. With due care and some luck you should be able to reuse the existing seal as well.
  3. The ZX downpipe will likely need a bit of modification to work. We have a 280Z engine with the cast iron manifold and downpipe (from a 75 280Z) in our 73 240Z. To make the downpipe fit we had to heat and bend it a bit. If I recall correctly, we did this in the car with the car on a service rack at the muffler shop. Not a big deal if you don't get fussy and worry about flow rates and such. Just be sure not to collapse the bend. Also, there are at least two variants for the connection between the cast iron manifold and the downpipe. The early type has a different bolt pattern and I think the two pipes are slightly smaller as well.
  4. Yes, you should be able to measure a voltage on the yellow wire when it is disconnected and the ignition switch is in the on position. The usual test is to breifly ground the yellow wire. When working correctly, the fuel gauge should go to full (past it more likely) rather quickly. Have a helper watch the gauge so you don't have to leave it grounded very long as it is hard on the meter. Just a brief touch should do to see any movement of the meter needle.
  5. That appears to be the accessory relay. In the 72 it powers only the rear window defroster (per factory wiring diagram).
  6. If you know which model motorcylce the carbs are from you should be able to buy the insulators used on ebay or at a local motorcycle salvage yard. If the carbs are not from too old of a model you might be able to get new parts from the dealer. Anyhow, home made insulators should work fine. The original insulators on the Z are simple phenolic sheets cut to the shapes necessary. Any highish temp phenolic should work. Garolite or an equivalent is relatively cheap and machines easily.
  7. Steel should be ok as far as heat is concerned. The main disadvantage is weight. If you aren't already thinking of it, use the rubber couplers from the motorcycle the carbs are from. This helps keep heat and vibration out of the carbs.
  8. I think 30mm is too small. You really should consider larger carbs. If you use CV style carbs it will hard to over do it since they would simply never lift all the way. The stock carbs are 46mm. The fact that it feeds three cylinders does not mean much. What matters is the peak velocity thourgh the carb. The cam timing is such that there is only one cylinder at a time with a large valve opening, meaning the stock carbs only feed one cylinder at a time.
  9. I think moving the ball joint will effect the roll center, not bump steer. If it is enough to be usefull I don't know.
  10. I think moving the ball joint will effect the roll center, not bump steer. If it is enough to be usefull I don't know.
  11. I agree with RabekahsZ. Try checking the play on the dampers with them out of the strut tubes.
  12. Start with the bulbs. If they are good look at the dimmer switch (part of the combination switch).
  13. Do the calipers fit ok? If the hub is not going on all the way the caliper won't go on or will indicate an offset. Another test would be to put a wheel on and measure the gap between the rim edge and the strut tube. Basically the same as what NewZed is suggesting but perhaps a bit easier to execute. I don't know if the 1/4" is a big deal or not. If there is no indication of damage to either strut tube it could be within normal production tolereances. Perhaps it will show up as a problem during a front end alignment, perhaps not.
  14. Have you put both hubs on the same strut to make sure it is not the hubs? As for inspecting the strut, look for deformation in the strut tube where it meets the knuckle. Also, place a straight edge along the length of the strut to look for a curve. If you have an angle finder of some type you might be able to measure the angle between the strut tube and the spindle. The problem with measuring the angle is deciding which one is wrong if they are not the same. The service manual does not have a specificaton for this angle.
  15. Ok. It looks like it is all burred up. Maybe it is grease or artifacts from the twisting. I thought perhaps it has some wear that occured before the failure that might have contributed to the failure.
  16. I mean the other end of the spline, where it meets the smooth section. There is significant wear there. What caused that?
  17. What caused the groove at the inner end of the splines? That looks like something that occured during use. We have a set of these from the first batch made by Beta Motorsports and they are holding up fine to road racing.
  18. For a points type ignition the voltage waveform on the negative side of the coil is a crappy looking rectangle wave with underdamped ringing on the trailing edge. Voltage spikes up to 100 votls are not unusual, depending on the condition of the condenser. I would likely make a shift light using TTL circuitry since I am not adpet with microcontrollers. A suitable signal conditoner feeding a Schmitt trigger should yeild a clean signal that can be used to determine the engine rpm. 3 pulses per revolution translates to 18,000 ppm at 6000 rpm. The period at 6000 rpm is 3.33 mS and the pusle width will be about 0.7 mS, depending the the dwell.
  19. It should be fine. The extra 10 amps is not a huge increase. You should service all of the connections in the circuit for best reliability.
  20. Also, you should check the reaction disk. This is in the booster and can come out when the mater is off, especially if you remove the booser. A missing reaction disk will make the brake bedal low and very touchy.
  21. Did you bench bleed the clutch master? If you did not, there is a lot of air in the master that is difficult to bleed out through the long hose and slave. As a diagnostic procedure, remove the fill cap from the master and then remove the filter screen from the bottom of hte fluid reservior (if it is in there). Now you should be able to see the fluid transfer port at the bottom of the reservior. Have a helper press the clucth pedal slowly while you watch the fluid in the reservoir. Normal operation should produce a small squirt of fluid up from the master that shoots up toward (and perhaps past) the surface of the fluid (be carefull as this could get brake fluid on the firewall or fender). If there is air in the master cylinder you will see air bubbles come out from the port. If you see air here you have to bench bleed the master. You can do this in the car by loosing the nut that hold the steel line in, or there may be a bleeder valve next to the line fitting. Eitehr way, bleed the master before proceeding to the slave. Did the clutch ever work since you got this car? Did you or the previous owner put in a new clutch or (more importantly) pressure plate? The lenght of the collar that holds the throwout bearing must be the correct length to work with the pressure plate you have. This is a common pitfall with this car. Even the kits that include the collar get it wrong sometimes.
  22. Yes, welding can cause problems with strength if it is not done correctly. For this a good welder should be able to do it ok. Another option would be to start with a thicker piece of steel and machine the center thinner, leaving ribs at the edges.
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