beermanpete

The seal looks correct to me. The seal has a small lip that faces the outside as well as the main seal that faces into the transmission. If I recall correctly the splines on the insdie of the yoke sleeve do not start until about 1 inch in form the edge. This allows the sleeve to engage the bushing befor engaging the splines. It could be hanging up on the splines. Make sure to have the transmission in gear so the output shaft does not turn while you rotate the drive shaft to align the splines.

Looks like fun! Thanks for sharing.

Love it. Thanks.

Try McMaster-Carr.

I know the ARP 100-7713 studs are 0.509" per the ARP catalog and they went in to my 240Z hubs rather tight. As I recall the Doorman studs for the 240Z are few mils smaller. The ARP studs for the 350Z mentioned in post 21 have a diameter of 0.565" per the page at ForcedFab the link took me to. The ARP catalog does not show 350Z studs so there is no corroboration there. The ForcedFab data must be incorrect.

The 350Z studs have a larger knurl diameter than the 240Z studs. I used the ARP studs for the Camaro (PN 100-7713) with a knurl diameter of 0.509" and they went in tight. The 350Z studs mentioned have a knurl diameter of 0.565" so you will need to drill out the holes in your hubs to use them.

It sounds like the floats or float valves are bad. Rebuild the carbs.

Low oil in the carbs can cause a lean condition when opening the throttle that goes away once at a steady speed/ To check the oil in the carb remove the black know at the top of each carb and pull out the damper rod. There are two (somewhat faint) lines. Add oil to get the oil level between the lines. There is a never-ending debate about what type of oil to use. For now use whatever motor oil you have handy. I get good results with 10W30. The damper only holds a tiny amount of oil so add carefully. Use a syringe or eye-dropper if you have one.

Yes, use the fill plug from the old differential. It works fine for me.

The drive shafts are the same. We use the 4-speed drive shaft with the 83 5-speed and the Subaru LSD. The oil quantity required is approximately 1 quart. Fill the LSD until oil runs out from the fill plug. If you use GL-5 and thje LSD modifers 1 bottle is enoung and is only a few ounces of oil. Add it first and then fill with the GL-5 until full. Yes, strictly speaking you should change the seals every time the shafts come out. However, many people get away without doing this. If you want to change the seals do it. It is easy and low cost. You can use the Subaru seals or the Datsun seals, they are the same.

Yes, you can connect the rear brakes to the port marked "F" and the front brakes to the port marked "R". The piston size and other internal parts in the master are identical in each section. As long as you install the check valve in the port you connect to the rear brakes it will work fine. The Willwood master has the same size reservoirs so that is a non-issue. If you want to use the original Datsun reservoirs (and they fit on the Wilwood master) install the large one in the position on the master that is connected to the front brakes and the small one for the rear.

The difference between the front and rear master sections is the reservior size and the check valve. If you still have drum rear brakes you need to make sure the check valve is in the section used for the rear brakes. If you have disks in the rear make ure to remove the check valve. The reservoir size is larger for the front disk to allow for fluid level the drop as the pads wear. You should be able to move the check valve and reservoir as needed.

More precisely, these are the flow bowl vents to atmosphere. If you block them the float bowl cn get pressurized and cause fuel level variations, poor running, and other maladies. As WEBEZEEed said, these are normally connected to the air cleaner so that they see the air pressure at the inlet to the carburetor. If you have aftermarket air filters you can simply put a piece of tubing in each vent and loop it down so the free end points down to help keep dirt and water out. Some people use a small fuel filter in the vent line to further protect the fuel system from dirt and water intrusion.

Yep. We learned that the hard way as well. Mask or remove the glass prior to grinding or welding near it.

Perhaps the distance collar is too short? Check the code on the housing and look up the dimensions listed in the service manual for the collar. Check the collar to see if it is correct.

The alternator belt is coated with oil and is slipping. Once you fix the oil leak and clean everything it should be fine. If it still does not charge well replace the belt.

Did you check the operaton of the vacuum advance and centrifigul advance? Perhaps one of both are in need of service. When you say "RPMS would drop to 0", I assume you mean engnine stops running and the tach indication goes to 0. This sounds like a problem with the primary ignition circuit. Perhaps the worn points were not the only problem. You might have a bad connection somewhere that did not get "fixed" by installing the Pertronix.

No, that is not me. My Z is a track only car and lives on a trailer these days.

It sounds like the alternator is not charging. Check the system voltage when the engine is running. At idle is should be about 12.5 to 13 volts. When you race the engine the voltage should rise to about 14.5 to 15 volts.

No. The Honda has different bolt circle diameter. 100 mm vs. 114.3mm I think

This reminds me of the Write Only Memory from Signetics.

Is that with safety equipment for racing?

Well, I bought some a few years ago from a Nissan dealer in Simi Valley, CA. Others on this forum or perhaps on ClassicZ have reported what appear to be recent purchases. Perhaps they are not available any longer. Things do change.

Getting the holes drilled and bolts installed in the center will be fun. That is right over the differential and the brake line and parking brake cables run through there as well. Also, there is no lateral bar for seat belts. If you plan to add a racing style safety harness you might as well get the Autopower roll bar with the lateral bar.

Keep in mind that new spindle pins are still available from Nissan for about $35 each. If your pins turn out to be difficult to remove don't waste a bunch of time trying to "save" the pins. Get them out however you can and replace them if it comes down to that.