slyhog22056

There is a adhesive sealer product out there called E6000 or E3000 it is a silicone like sealer and adhesive that sets in a few hours and is completely paintable. It does come in black, white, clear 6 oz to 30 oz tubes, best thing is that it has a high tensile strength and stays flexible in different weather. Where it shows get it smoothed out right the first time cuz you cant go back and smooth it out. We use it all the time for fiberglass to metal, carbon fiber to fiberglass and metal and metal to metal. As for your emblems the easiest and safest way to remove them is to use dental floss get it started in between and use it with a sawing motion to remove without scratching anything or ruining the emblem, if yours have the small pegs on the back just work around them and they will come off then remove all the old adhesive with wd-40

The what from ebay????

oki got the idea of the hoses now, i will have to find a way to route the return hose since that port on my intake isnt accessable. I am thinking i might have to block the area from the lower edge of my air dam on back to the lower support with a sheet of aluminum. that will keep all the air in front of the radiator and has to go thru it then. The only other openings are the 3" holes for the cabin air intake, i am just thinking these 12" fans arent going to do it, after i get back from the racetrack this weekend i am going to fab up a shroud for my 16" fan. Even today the high was only in the low 90's and it still got up too 200 idling in park.

I had bought one before last winter when i did a repaint, the door gaskets and windshield rubbers were the only parts that did not fit right at all. The part that locks over the lip all around is too tall when installed making the soft sealing part higher all around making door fitting a real issue. I even pulled the new ones off and reinstlled the old ones to compare, a 1/8" here and there does add up. If i had to do it again i would get the universal door seals from jcwhitney. they will send samples so you can pick the right one. The lip on my datsun is 3/8" high, the inside measurement of the seals i got measure 1/2" on the inside, 1/8' top and bottom = 1/4" front to back the same thing. After a summers worth of use, 2 days a week, they have loosened up some but the bottom fit is still a problem and i aint going to raise my doors for them to fit, i happen to like the body lines matching up more. The windshield rubbers are fine around the glass but the outside circumference is not wide enough, i have both top corners that the rubber will go inside the gap, I had to fill it with silicone to keep that from happening. I did not buy the aftermarket one they sell i bought a supposedly oem set.

well it isnt the thermostat, i only use failsafe and have only had problems with them sticking in the wide open position (3 so far), i can start it and watch with the cap off and it only takes 3 or 4 minutes until it opens up, and yes too much antifreeze over a 50/50 mixture will cause over heating, too much is worse than not enough, i had about 1 3/4 gallons of antifreeze in this system before my son diluted it down. With the 1/8" hole in the thermostat it is almost impossible to get trapped air, i start it let it warm up and shut it off then top it off, the top tank of my radiator is 4" higher than the intake manifold so its hard to believe it still has air in it. Am driving it to work tomorrow to let our guy pull a vacuum on it and fill it with his machine, that will definetly take out any air. what temps do the rest of you run around town??? My boss says 220* isnt hot at all for a 302. He says he wouldnt worry until it got to 230 to 240, Maybe i need to just get one of my sons 383 or 360 mopars and fit it in there.....

I am running 295-50-15 in the rear and 195-70-14 in the front. but when autocrossing i run 9.0 wide 20 height 13 wheel ( the 13 x 10 wheels are for sale BTW)

I know the feeling, usually here it is still over 100* outside when i get home from work at 8 pm. Here are some pictures of the same style waterpump with 2, 5/8" nipples (pic is upside down) and the same style thermostat housing just like i have with the boss on the top, where this guys sender is at, but mine isnt tapped. I am assuming there is supposed to be a pypass hose from the side nipple on the housing to the top hose fitting on the water pump since that is a suction side of pump. My heater hoses then should run from the lower nipple on the pump, out to the heater core and return into the boss on top of the t-stat housing. Correct???

i do have all the air out of the system the radiator water neck is the high point in my system, learned about air pockets the hard way with my 1984 bmw 633 csi. there is a 1/8" hole in my t-stat so it can let the air out while filling cold, i let my son drive it for a couple of days and he checked the antifreexe in it and it seems like i got too much antifreeze and not enough water. he diluted it down to -20 freeze point and i will see how it goes from there. I think i am going to make a temporary fan shroud for the 16" fan and see how that works. I do want to see how your heater lines are run so i can get these right.

Well i guess i can refab a shroud for the 16" puller fan, no problem at all, just want to make sure it will work correctly before i make one out of 'glass. i have 8" between the radiator and waterpump pulley to play with. I just thought the 2-12" fans would pull more air through the radiator fins than the 16" would. The reason i didnt mount it onto the newer radiator is because at highway speed the 16" fan was restricting airflow and run hot, (s blade style)so i bought a pair of high cfm 12's (straight blades) I guess then that calls for those little rubber flaps that open at highway speeds but held closed by the fans at low speed made famous by GM. Funny thing is i didnt have any problems with the datsun radiator until i had it rodded out, it never got above 190. So the little nipple on the t-stat housing pointing straight forward is a bypass that goes where??? My water pump has 2 5/8" nipples one is on the pressure side of the impeller and one is on the suction side of the impeller. There is a boss on top of the t-stat housing that hasnt been drilled and tapped before the t-stat, is that where it is supposed to go?? same area as the intake side of housing. I can always make a 90* fitting for it. I dont know because i bought this engine already removed from the car and have tried to look at others at the junk yard to see how they are routed. Seems like every one i find has had hoses and wiriing stripped off of them. i am trying to keep these hoses and everything as neatly routed as possible.

This is a aftermarket water pump for this engine, forward rotation serpentine belt driven as it came from the 88 lincoln towncar originally same grooved pulleys. As for running the heater line into the intake beside the water neck, that port is not accessable, it is partially covered by the HEI distributor. They are run right now into and out of the engine at the t-stat housing before the t-stat and into the bottom 5/8" port of the water pump. Just wanting to make sure the arrangement i now have will circulate enough before i cover them all up with aluminum side panels this winter. And yes i prefer to stick with the top flow radiator because the side tank ones mean i have to run the top radiator hose across the engine bay to the top fitting, dont want that since i now only have a 13" top hose and 16" lower hose that isnt snaked all over the place and just looks neater. And no they arent collapsing. I have been looking for a open faced (No shrouds) 14" to 16" fan to mount an inch or so in front of the radiator like the factory cobras have but cant find any. I have a 16" s blade fan with shroud i can cut out some of the grill work and mount up there. Right now my fans kick in at 150, I just dont want to surface mount anything on this new aluminum radiator. There isnt anything mounted in front of this radiator to block airflow. My trans, oil and fuel coolers are mounted horizontally across the bottom close to the bottom tank. Am i just worrying too much about 210 to 220 degreees???

Hey there people i am back again with another question / problem. This summer has been hotter than normal so i had been having problems running hot with the datsun brass radiator, so i went and bought a new aluminum radiator with 2 rows of 1" tubes, 2 new 12" puller fans rated at 1550 cfm each. i did test then to make sure i had the airflow going the right way before installing them. I am using a 180* failsafe thermostat and i am still having a problem of running 210* to 220* around town. Is it normal for this 302 (1988) to run this hot? I get worried when i see the temp creeping up above 210*. The main reason i get worried is anytime it gets above 200 it tends to run on when i shut it down. Right now it is only in the high 80's to mid 90's and it still runs that hot. Hate to think what will happen when i install A/C in the future. My original datsun radiator was cooled by a 16" puller fan with shroud. Another short question, to what points does the heater hoses hook up to this 302?? i have 2 ports on the water pump and 1 on the thermostat housing. New radiator original radiator

Well i bought some cooling system cleaner (evaporust cooling system cleaner) and ran it through the entire system for the recommended 2 hours and flushed and then refilled it with antifreeze, now when it is 110* outside it gets right up to 200 then drops slightly. and even though the datsun radiator had been rodded out and block and heads hot tanked 3000 miles back when i rebuilt it this stuff got out chunks of rust up too 1/2" and what a difference it made, before it would go to 220 and pretty much stay there. The main reason i am wanting to go to aftermarket radiator is it does get hot as hell here and when i want to go autocrossing i dont want to worry about overheating the thing since it dont get much airflow autocrossing off and on all day long. I now have a 16" puller fan that kicks on at 160* but when i put in the new radiator i will mount it flat against the inside and mount my 12" fan on the outside to kick on at 190* if needed, i know i really need it right now but i only drive the car 2 days a week for a total of 65 miles a week. I am using 2 1 wire sensors right now when i put it inside for the wintger i need to weld different bungs closer to the headers, right now they are about 16" behind the header collector right in from of the exhaust cutout and they cool off too fast at adle and take almost 5 minutes to heat up when cold. -

Ok here is what i have as of today with a little bit of tinkering, 14* at idle in gear at 650 rpm, my mechanical advance bring in a total of 18* at 2600 rpm, wacuum brings in a total of 38* at 3800 rpm. I jetted up to 70's in the primary and that is a little rich but close, now i am only running 190* to 200* around town instead of 215* to 220* after i get the engine flushed out with chemicals i am installing a new aluminum radiator with center top inlet and drivers side outlet to fit the ford inlets and outlets on the engine with 3 rows of 1" tubes, ($150.00 delivered)and 165* thermostat. It is not a crossflow (hate those things)and i am presently using a 18" electric fan set to come on at 175* as a puller with a full shroud and a 12" on the outside set to come on at 190* as a pusher right beside my oil and trans cooler. The factory timing for this engine is 8* btdc so i think 14* should be plenty. I could be wrong but that seems to work best for me. So far i have been having to a lot of trial and error with this engine since it isnt fuel injected anymore and isnt pushing a 4600 lb lincoln towncar

yeah 14 is base and i have a total of 38 that is fully in at 3800 rpm. I have a HEI distributor with a MSD digital trigger with a 65K ciol and 9 mm MSD wires, running Bosch platinum plugs at .050. Gettting 12" vacuum at idle in drive at 650 rpm. my gearing isnt ideal, i am running the stock 3.54 gears but plan to put my 3.92 gearset in this winter. that will bring my 60 mph up to about 1800. Going to go into the cooling system this weekend, even in 110+ heat to try and see if anything else may be wrong. Maybe when i had the radiator boiled out they blocked off some tubes or something.

I know it is lean because i am running 2 o2 sensors and 2 a/f ratio gauges and they both agree, my timing is set at 14*btdc, and it isnt under load, when i get on it and do put a load on it the a/f ratio goes into a normal area and it runs cooler. Holley techs werent any help at all they just told me to check the plugs and go up or down from there, well i believe the a/f ratio gauges are a little more trustworthy than reading the plugs.

Whenever it cools down enough i am going to run 3/8 lines outside the datsun frame and i guess that 1/4" line will just be run with a downturned loop in it so the tank can breathe and still keep trash out of it. make sure you use a return style regulator, standard regulators wont work. Right now i am dealing with major overheating problems. put on a brand new 600 holley and it is fine until i get into a cruise situation then it goes extremely lean and make the thing run 215 to 230 degrees. This is even with a rodded out radiator, i have been talking to holley techs and they dont seem to know why it would go so lean at cruise. I have a 16" electric fan on it now in a shroud but i might have to mount it directly to the radiator along with a 12" i also have. Never had a overheating problem until recently. On the highway it runs around 190, until i get into over drive and am cruising at 1600 rpm at 60 mph then away it goes

Well lets see, if you run fuel pump without a return line the fuel pump has to kick off and on to keep fuel to the carb, with the return line system you are allowing the fuel pump to run continously and recirculating the fuel to cool the pump and make it last a lot longer, plus with a return system you have better control of fuel pressures. I dont have any spacers between the carb and the intake because then my air cleaner wont fit under my hood. I am thinking my fuel boiling problem is because my fuel lines are parallel to my headers and only about 1 1/2" away. There is a heat shield between the 2 but when it is 108* outside that doesnt help much, i went and bought 25' of 3/8 tubing and am going to run a set outside the datsun frame and get them completely away from my headers. I am planning to fabricate a different air cleaner this winter so i will need to take into account the extra space needed to allow a phenolic spacer between the 2

Hey there, i have suddenly gotten a problem with my 280Z with a 302sbf. I installed a regular fuel tank instead of the fuel cell i have had in the car. There are 3 lines running from the rear of the car up to the engine compartment. 1 is 3/8" and i use that for fuel feed, the second is 5/16" and i am using that for the return line to the tank, the other is a 1/4" line and i think it is supposed to be hooked to the vapor tank in the rear hatch area because it has a check valve in it, question...where does the other end supposed to go too??? it is just open ended next to my firewall. I am thinking this supposed to be a vapor line for a charcoal canister, maybe, maybe not, I am also having a problem with fuel tank being pressurized during hot weather and i think this is because that 1/4" line is plugged. I plan to run new 3/8" lines on the outside of the frame rail to alleviate some of the heating of the fuel problems since the lines only clear the headers by about 1 1/2", but if i need to run another vapor line too i want to make sure that is what it is for and where it needs to go.

I have a 302 with AOD and the 3.54 rear gears and get about 13 average around town but it is hard to keep my foot out of it. At 60 mph i run close to 1900 rpm, so i am going to change out the rear for the 3.92 gears this winter.

The 240Z came with an R180, the main difference is the mustache bar and maybe the nose length, some r 200's are long nose and short nose, about 1 1/2" difference. you will need the mustache bar from a r 200 and maybe have to fabricate a front mount, you are going to have to make a driveshaft to fit either way more than likely. It isnt a hard swap over and very well worth the extra strength of the r 200. You should be able to use your half shafts with the r 200 i think, they just snap in and out of the housings.

Just to pass on some advice... do you see the area of the frame where it meets the firewall??? there is a triangular section there that needs 1/8" plating on both inside and outside to help carry the weight of the engine. AFter you weld on the plate run some 1 x 1/8 strap on the firewall side to help spread it out on the firewall. I learned this from a guy here locally that dropped a 351 windsor in his and the frame bent right up against the firewall from the extra torque of the bigger motor. I pulled my 302 out and plated mine after seeing the damage done to his.

Hopefully you still have it, i tore mine up and ended buying one for $15... about 1/3 of the kit cost...lol

did you take apart the diaphragm on the bottom of the bowl, assuming its a holley, check the diaphragm and the little red umbrella valve in the bowl. the diaphragm is what squirts fuel into the venturi squirters. How long did it set for?? I have had mine sitting on a shelf for months and not had any problems, with and without fuel in the bowls. But then again, hooleys arent the best carbs anyway, i swore by them until i finally learned how easy it is to set and adjust the edelbrocks.