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ThreeEightyZ

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About ThreeEightyZ

  • Rank
    Newbie
  • Birthday 09/11/87

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Bakersfield,CA
  1. As stated, I'm looking mainly for inner and outer tie rod ends, but seeing as they're impossible to find I'd be interested in buying a complete operational rack with good ends. Also looking for a front metal fender DATSUN emblem, a good working column turn signal switch, and some stock front and rear springs. Let me know what you have! Located in Bakersfield, CA Car is a early 74 260z (240)
  2. Fuel Pressure Issue

    Any of those..the most common thing would be a float problem though. The float could be saturated, something may be stuck in the needle seat, etc. Does your carb have sight glasses in the side?
  3. Should I be worried about my axles/halfshafts?

    Would I be better or worse off welding my diff? I know it would distribute power to 2 axles instead of one...but i can also see how it might add to the stress they see under normal driving.
  4. Should I be worried about my axles/halfshafts?

    I'd be inclined to agree...This was why i wasn't worried so much up to this point...as I would shred the tires (both) loose with my open rear end whenever i hit about half throttle in 1st or 2nd gear. But since I've gotten these new tires...I'm actually able to lay into it pretty good about halfway through first if I roll into it steady. My main concern now is the shifts. My tranny has a custom shift kit in it that is VERY aggressive..and my main concern is shifting into 2nd on the juice and disintegrating a an entire axle assembly. I would kind of prefer to blow the diff up...seeing as the rest of the car would be less destroyed.
  5. Ok so I've got some basic tire on my can now and I'm like some input on what I can expect out of the rear components in my 260 with what I want to throw at it. I have an early '74 260z with an open r200 (I THINK 3.90) diff...i believe the halfshafts/axles are out of a 280...but may be the stock ones from my car. I'm running a ~500hp(crank) 383 and a built/kitted etc TH350(shifts pretty damn hard). So far everything has held up well under pretty aggressive driving..I just put brand new street tires on it and can finally start to grab OK in 1st gear. My driveline was also custom made and should be one of the stronger parts in my drivetrain...leaving the axles as the weakest link i think. My question is this...how likely am I to hurt any of the axle parts with these street tires and my automatic? Both on the street and at the track (assuming i hook pretty well)? Have any of you broken them in the middle of a pass? (not off the line). I also would like to put maybe a 150 shot on the motor, as the motor was running on nitrous regularly in the previous car. I'd be looking to squeeze probably in 2nd gear...and I'm wondering if even that might be enough to shock one of those parts enough. Any input is greatly appreciated. Thanks!
  6. Fuel Pressure Issue

    Yes, fuel pressure should always be set at running temp, but i dont see that making a that significant of a difference. The part that doesn't fit the "low pressure" hypothesis is that you said at higher rpm and wot it runs fine. If it were truly running out of gas and you opened up the butterflies...the engine would likely hesitate and backfire or just stall instantly. I've had junk get caught in the my secondary bowl's float needle seat before and it cause almost the same symptoms...after i drove it for a while it would start to gargle when cruising. But, If i went WOT or rolled into the gas slowly it would be fine...then it would die at idle. After a minute of sitting it would fire right up and be perfect again. It was keeping the needle open and allowing the fuel pump to flood the bowl, pushing gas out through the venturis. Even if your gauge is correct...if the running pressure is low enough I can see the pressure dropping because it's not getting enough resistance from the floats. If the car didn't rev and go WOT fine I would say to check that the pump has a proper feed (gravity)...those pumps only like to push, not pull.
  7. Lets see your V8 in your Z.

    I wishI had more pictures...but the car has only been going for a month or so
  8. Fuel Pressure Issue

    Are you sure that your pressure gauge is good? As well as your regulator? If it pulls fine when you roll on the throttle or at wot you are most likely running rich. It sounds just like when a bowl starts to flood from a float problem or too much pressure. Actually...i just looked at the picture...you're running a Mr Gasket gauge from the parts stores. Those are useful when you need them immediately...but they are JUNK. I have one on my car and I have gone through 4 of them in a year because after a month or so they stop reading even REMOTELY correctly. I actually just changed one last week because I was having this exact problem..turned out my actual fuel pressure was 12+ when the MG gauge was reading 5.
  9. 5 LUG HUB STUB AXLES CONVERSION FOR 240Z, 260Z, 280Z

    I would be SERIOUSLY interested in buying an entire kit to get rid of the stock axles on my r200, as well as convert to 5 lug at the same time. I just recently finished swapping a 500hp 383 into my 260Z. I don't have the greatest budget, and would like the added security.
  10. Ok guys so this is my first post as a new Z owner: My problem: I have a Motor setup from my donor Camaro that is to be placed into the Z. It's a 383 Stroker laying down approx. 480HP at the crank, and about 500 ft lbs...this was previously mated to a TH350 that was built, and it handled it just fine (even with up to a 250 shot of N2O) Now with the Z, I'm looking to go 700R4, as im making the car somewhat of a daily driver, but am not great with these transmissions and would like some input on what kind of work will be necessary to make this transmission survive my motor! (And maybe a small shot of nitrous on occasion) I've already acquired my transmission, its a 1990 770r4 out of a 305 Camaro. And my next step is going to be buying the parts, I've come across this kit which seems to have everything: "Super Master Rebuild KitThis kit is for 1987 to 1993 700R4 transmissions only. Here's what you get, the Fairbanks oversize billet intermediate servo and the Fairbanks oversize billet overdrive servo. The Sonnax oversize .500in. pressure valve and oversize low / reverse pressure valve. A 10 vane pump rotor and vane kit. Also included is a pump seal retainer and pump bushing, Borg Warner 29 element forward sprag, new low / reverse roller clutch, Alto carbon fiber Power Band. This kit comes with a torque converter lock-up kit, complete thrust washer kit and an Alto master rebuild kit. The master kit comes with all TransTec gaskets, seals and rings. You get a filter, Beast shell, 2 new accumulator pistons, Transgo separator plate. As an added bonus you get a discount plus freight in the 48 continental United States. After many years of research and development these parts where determined to work together best for a long lasting transmission." Now, my questions is will this kit (in addition to a shift kit) give me everything necessary to achieve my goal? If not, what else should I look into? Experiences please! Thanks!
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