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gacksen

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About gacksen

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  • Location
    Germany
  1. Carbon Trim Door Panels

    the alcantara dash looks yummy !
  2. Rocketbunny 240z AKA fuguz

    depends on what you want to have. there are people that like it stock. others like it slightly modded and the other guys go down the full route. if would like to have a fully modded Z would get that kit and put a big engine in it. if it won´t deliver as it looks would be senseless. remembers me a little of that built : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DfaC0YIU26k&index=1&list=PLVCFddyDNwsbdZFZhmBEVrD0T_rAiJLXM
  3. Have the same ACZ LCA ..... only thing that worries me is that the tube on each side is only secured via clamping force. have thought about getting a hole drilled on each to secure them with bolts once found the right setup.
  4. looks like the guys had some fun thx for sending over the header. have received it in the meantime but could not put it in yet.
  5. L28 3.1 advance curve ?

    thanks a lot for your detailed explanation. makes perfect sense. will get that curve onto the dizzy once i have my front fenders back from the paintshop. less parts on the car means more talking once the police pulls you over
  6. L28 3.1 advance curve ?

    thanks for all the support and detailed descriptions. bought the car used in CA last year and the engine builder passed away in the meantime. what i do know from the mechanic of the seller is that the CR should be around 9.5 and cam should be around 270 - 280 of unconfirmed lift and duration. he told me that he remembered total davnce should be 32 and as per their test not exceed 34. as for the fuel in germany we have 98 RON octane available almost anywhere. if needed 102 octane is also available at some stations a little extra but normally i use the 98. i remember there there had been some country differences : ( RON Octane Rating x 0.95 = AKI Octane Rating ) 98 RON Octane x 0.95 = 93.1 AKI Octane (US measure) 102 RON Octane x 0.95 = 96 AKI Octane (US measure) the most simplified curve i could do would be the the curve in the attachment. do i get something wrong or has the weber dcoe 152 an advance port ?
  7. L28 3.1 advance curve ?

    thanks Zed will need to take the car on a dyno to get an AFR plot and try a revised curve. in general would have thought about something like this ? after having read the postings.....
  8. L28 3.1 advance curve ?

    Hello, just had a quick look at the curve the guys at the carb rebuilt shop put into my tune 123 dizzy. as for the all the other cars i know the total advance should come in around 2500-3000rpm or am i wrong ? 3x 45 webers with vac disconnected. have attached dyno sheet and dizzy print
  9. Fender flare position

    after the new gearbox had been in i tried the following. adjusted the slave pushrod so that no slack had been on the fork. drove the car and crunch had been there in all the gears. more noticeable in 1/2/3 than 4/5. next adjusted the pushrod on the slave with more force means the throwoutbearing pressing on the pressure plate with not engaged clutch. after having done this there was also crunch but not that bad as before. this would bring me to the conclusion that the slave has not enough throw to fully disengange the clutch. next step is either to reduce the bore of the slave or increase the bore of the master or do both to increase throw on the slave. is my math wrong in this point ? the dizzy is the tune 123 with disconnected vac. this had been the tune that was one it after it had the triple weber 45 rebuilt and was on the dyno. have read a lot of threads and the consens seemd that the the all in advance should come in between 2500 and 3200 rpm so i aksed myself why in this case they bring it in quite late at 4000.
  10. Fender flare position

    will go also with the RKR but with smaller tyre sizes like 225 and 245 didnt do much those days due to regular work. put in more interior and hazzled around with the headliner. finally got it in but it felt as you need 10x hands to get it done properly. sides had been way more easy with the heat gun. front windscreen is back in now. exchanged the gearbox to a fresh rebuilt one with perfect synchros and still not shifting properly. bled the clutch and it was not getting better. have taken a deeper look into this and it seems a wrong master slave combo had been used on the car. currently in is the regular 240z master and the slave with the adjustable pushrod of the 240z. ordered the pathfinder one and a 3/4 master of a toyota and will switch rods to make it fit. hopfully will have enough throw after that. btw. one of you guys is familiar with the dizzy curves on a L28 ? just have taken a look at the 123 tune that had been on it and it looks like the all in advance is quite late ?
  11. would be interessted in 3/4" primary pipe Full-race header. do you have a quote for s&h inside europe ?
  12. Fender flare position

    thx for the pictures. i do get the point now in moving them upwards that they won´t sit as low. had to much regular work the last weeks so could not motivate myself to get back working on the car. got it back from the paintshop two weeks ago that got rid of some overpainted old rubber seals and in the meantime fabbed up new TB for my rover v8
  13. had the same problem with the maxima calipers on the rears and if on the car almost impossible to bleed. remove them that the bleeder is pointing straight upwards and it will work.
  14. took my trans out those days and managed to brake the cover plate as seen on the picture. anybody one in the garage that is not needed ? thx for help
  15. Fender flare position

    fixed the greddy gauage problem. chinese crap fault had been the greddy control unit. if each sensor get´s connected with one wire to the greddy loom and with the other one to ground no problem. inital wiring had been correct. normally would need to replace the control unit but it seems an easy fix and i dont have to sent it back where i bought it overseas. as for the flares tried it today with some tape and pushed them around. no problem to adjust them higher but getting away of the hole behind the wheel is not possible without welding plates in to get the look with the rear wheel in the middle. if you put metal in would bring me to antoehr paint job need to put on the front fender first to have an impression with the raised rears. at a higher position the fender flare is almost aligned perfectly with the regular lip but of course still the gap on the rear.
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