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About walkerbk

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    Stephenville, TX

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  1. Rear end upgrades

    Well got everything pulled apart which wasn't as bad as I thought it would be. Took about 4 hours to get both companion flanges pulled off, and the differential dropped. Cutting the stub shaft bolt wasn't as bad as I thought, 10 min with a drimal per side while spinning the disk break to get a nice cut all around. To replace the nut, since I do not have a nissan dealer near by, I went to Napa and the parts guy went back with my 20x1.5 nut and 15min later came back with one for some 4x4 vehicle (part number in photo). After welding everything up with 7013 rods on my home made welder (yes, home made) I am 100% sure these will hold without a problem. With the diff out, I went about cleaning. By the looks of it, the oil was never changed (300k miles). Thick as mud and took forever to drain but I got it emptied and cleaned. Took it to the car wash to get the road grime off then Al's cleaner from doller tree (very cheap degreaser) and brake cleaner. Worst part of it all was removing the carrier bearings form the old unit and then putting them on the new one. Luckly I had the perfict size socket (1-11/16) to assist with the reinstalling of the bearing. Only things left now (that I see) is c clip instal (can't get the old ones out) and painting (waiting on an order of phosphate acid to clean the rust off). Then it will be time to reinstall everything.
  2. 2x3 frame rails on a 280z

    I just thought that the frame rails in the photo werent complete... never even thought someone would leavr them like that. As for welding to stainless steel and all, most stainless does not have the strength that mild steel does, but they can easily be joined. The proper way would be to use stainless wire as it will weld exceptionally to both metals. Turbo 930: sounds like you have some dealings with the 280 floor. Do you think my method will work. Push up with jacks, pull down with bolts and a hammer where needed?
  3. 2x3 frame rails on a 280z

    I don't mind using 1x3 or 2x3. Whichever ones fit better. My understanding on the flooring is that the 240s had flat floors and the 280s had some flow to them. If this is incorrect, then I guess it's hammer bashing and all to get them flat.
  4. Just checking to see if anyone has ever replaced the fame rails on a 280z with stock floors with 2x3 or 1x3 tubing. I know people do it with the replacement floors but mine are still in great condition. The problem I see is the stock floors have a large amount of contour to them to assist with rigidity. With that, a flat surface isn't just going to mate up. I'm figuring after pulling the interior and cleaning out the old rails, put the new ones up there and hold them in place with a few jacks to help push up the low spots. Then from the inside bolt down through the floor and the new frame rail some 1x1 tubing to pull any high spots down. Again, I have been searching for a few days and hadn't found anyone yet. The main reason for replacement is I have finished an LS swap and would like to increase frame strength and do a 4 or 5 point cage.
  5. Rear end upgrades

    So, getting ready to pull everything apart in the apartment parking lot since I have moved from my lovely 2 car garage to a very small apartment with a car port and I figured i would post up on here. I have a 77 280z 2+2 with a 5.7 iron block/4l60e. Trying to keep it held together now I am upgrading the diff and half shafts. For the diff I have purchased a obx unit and have rebuilt it per the instructions with new washers. I still have to take it back apart once more to swap the circle clips from my current unit into this one. I am going to try to reuse the old carrier bearing since they are expensive and mine i believe to still be good. I have 2 bottles of synthetic 75-90w to go with and a new set of seals. For the half shafts, I have been having a very bad vibration on the highway so one day I jacked the car up and very carefully had the wife inside while I was under it watching for the movement... The driver side half shaft jumps around like a kid on candy. To rectify this, I will be swapping in the 300zxt cv shafts. I have ordered adapter plates from cave built performance for $220. They are 1/2 in steel that have a reses machined in to allow the companion flange to sit in and be welded together. After talking to the maker, I will not be flipping the cage but I will be checking travel by removing the spring and flexing the suspension to ensure it doesn't bind. And in the end, everything will get a nice coat of paint to make it look good. So to summarize, 300zxt cv shafts with custom adapters, and the obx unit that has been rebuilt.
  6. There are a few write ups with pics of his kit. I didn't like his order form either but after sending it and calling to confirm everything I was very happy with the quality of his work/business.
  7. I used the cx racing kit with the 4l60e and it was the biggest pain ever. The headers come down and point directly toward the oil pan of the transmission. I had to reform the bottom half of the headers and every welder I took it to said it couldn't be done... 4 weeks later and an extra few hundred in pipe and argon gas I got it working great. The motor mounts didn't fit right and required rework, the transmission mount was scrap, and I had to rebuild the headers to work. At the end of the day, next time I put an LS with a 4l60e in a 280z it will be with the jci kit. Don't know what you have against jci, but he made my drive shaft and it fit perfict.
  8. Im not sure which brakes those are, but the later years before they switched to the s12w, they took the s12+8 calipers and widened the channel in order to accommodate the vented roter. That gives you the best bias. As for calculating for front/rear bias with disk/drum set up, the calculations are completely different between disks and drums. Disks the force is applied equally on both sides sandwitching the roter. With drums, the cylinder pushes outward but then the pad material further from the cylinder has less effect on the drum itself. When I was doing my calculations, i could never find a clear cut way to calculate drum brake bias.
  9. Newzed: I completely agree with you. Everyone just wants to slap a set of brakes together to look better. I personally hated the drum brakes when it came time to change pads. At the end of the day I could lock brakes before and after the upgrades. The only difference is cooling abilities of the vented roters over solid and the solid disk over the drums. Drum brakes when set up right work great. My 36ft trailer will stop my truck fully loaded with only drums on two of the wheels.
  10. If you look at a brake bias calculator you will see that by switching to the s12w with the stock drums is a bad idea... The s12w overall are bad. They require more wheel space and the duel large cylinders makes them hard to match. The later years before the 12w they made the 12+8 with a large and small cylinder which makes it easier to match while also allowing you to run vented calipers. Even these however I would never run with stock drums. My set up I believe works very well. S12+8 and vented calipers with the needed spacer in the front. Maxima calipers and 300zx roters in the back with needed bracket. This set up when calculated gives me 67 to 33 front to rear ratio which depending on use, weather pad materials... should be between 55-70% front. If you don't get enough bite in the rear you will fish tail/ spin out. Best test of brake bias is stopping in the rain and still going straight.
  11. R200 obx diff

    Just got it in and the axles fit quite well. They have a little play (less than 1* I would guess) but over all good. I went ahead and rebuilt it which was defiantly needed while adding new washers and bolts. Although the ones that came with it were intact, they were rusted and grimy. Plus it was filled with cutting oil from the construction of the body. Less desirable was the packaging that it came in however. I could have packed it better in a shoe box with tissue paper... but that's what you get when you buy on ebay. I'll let you know how it goes worked after the install
  12. R200 obx diff

    I just bought mine, should be here in a few days if you want to wait. I however don't have my axles out yet (I'm swapping to 300zxt axles which should be identical on the diff side).
  13. If it is anything like the 280, it is very easy. My 77 280, had like 4 bolts up top and 4ish below and then there was 3 wiring plugs under the passanger side. You do have to "drop" the steering wheel, there is 2 bolts that hold it up to the frame and then remove horn and wheel. Really only takes about an hour
  14. 280z dash rebuild new idea

    It is very similar to the stock weight, maybe a few ounces heavier. When I pull the passenger side one I will get a weight difference. Before I finished filling everything in with foam, the screw that attaches it to the metal arm can be adjusted for more or less tention adjusting the amount of tension it takes to pull it down. I just set it where I liked it and filled over the screw with foam for a nice clean look.
  15. 280z dash rebuild new idea

    The caulk and paint are outdoor use so I am hopeful that won't happen. The foam I used was green insulation so it should be fine. I painted it with bed liner to give it a texture so it should be fine.