vbgambini

dmoralesbello First I have to say how I didnt see your build until today lol. Been on these forums for a while now and finally ran into your car. And it is amazing I have to say. I got my first classic Nissan 78 280z (Previously owned a 95 and 98 240sx and a few 350z) a few years back and now trying to do little by little to it. This build just gave me more motivation for my 280z. Best of all I see you are located here in South FL. Hard to find local Z guys. Im located in North Miami and would love to meet up and ask questions about your car and maybe get some guidance from your experiences if thats possible and ok with you. Could I PM you my phone number? Great ride again!!

Thank you sir. Good instruction there. Yea I've seen the AtlanticZ guides. Pretty good there too. Any of the bolts in the front and rear that I need to worry about rounding out? Stripping? Breaking? Etc. just so I have an idea what to look out for? Will penetrating fluid pretty much help?

Yea I was just trying to find an easier way rather than dropping the whole assembly. And not have to deal with the spindle pin just yet. So all I really have to do is remove the hand brake cable, brake line or caliper, and the half shaft right? Then just un bolt from the top inside the hatch, and everything should fall right out correct?

Cool thanks for that link. Ill look into that more. They are definitely closer than Orlando lol. More like 40 minutes away from me. Seems like a good place. How did you hear about them? Sees like they only do race cars though. You think they will do regular street cars?

Thanks. Yea getting it running again is the priority. Then ill tackle the suspension after. But thanks for the info. Now I know who to get a hold of when im in trouble lol. Do I really have to take the spindle pin out though? I read somewhere that they just released it from the top rather than the spindle pin itself. Did I read this wrong? Those pins arent cheap.

Seattle Thanks a lot for the great information. I gotta find that book. The original plan was to do as much of the stuff myself which I have done so far. Had to find out how to get it started when I first got it. Did some maintenance and other stuff that I can handle on my time that I have etc. Never got to this part where its all technical lol. It is currently not running again I think due to a bad fuel pump. So I have to tackle that first. Think I let it sit for too long . But it is not a daily driver and I try to drive it on the weekends here and there. The apprehension is definitely there and I dont have all the money to where I can just get it done lol. I just dont want to start on it, pay for certain things, expensive things, then have to pay more to fix my mess, or if I cant get it back together. But it seems these cars arent that bad to work on, its just the age of them that things will get broken and screwed up. Just dont want to make it worse. But I completely understand what you are saying. I think after thinking this over and over again, ill start with doing all the bushings first, more maintenace stuff, probably get the hard brake lines done because I did try to put my SS lines on, and the bolts are just too soft to unscrew even with the flare wrenches, and then tackle this job. Does that seem the right choices, rather than spending $1200 on coilovers and still having other little parts that need to be done first? I was going to do the floor pans and frame rails first (they are not that bad, but they do need work), but I think I can let that go a little for now. Get the car running again then go from there. Just dying on how high the car sits, and it came with 17 inch wheels, when I want 16s on there with it lowered a little lol. Am I missing anything? Sweet car btw. Had a 98 240sx with a 1J. Eventually want to boost this Datsun for sure!

Thanks for the insight. That sounds like a good plan to maybe source the parts too. I havent seen any for sale though normally. Yea I have to see how to tackle this. I mean I have enough space in the driveway to get it jacked up and leave it like that. Just worried if I screw something up how I would get the wheels back on to get it somewhere lol. Would you say the front or the rear is better to start with? I guess easier than the other? Or what I should be ready for when I do this. I know not everything goes right. Something will break, not want to come out, etc. Could maybe an exhaust shop do the welding if I cant find someone around here with more experience with these?

Cool! Sounds pricey doing that way and sending it to someone. This is my first older Z car so Im new to this. Use to bolt up coilovers many times before but this is totally different. Just didnt want to tackle the suspension then get myself stranded lol. Wish I could find someone around here to help me out. Also JPN Garage is like 4 hours north of me so that will be tough.Thanks for the information.

Wussup guys, looking to buy some coilovers for my 78 280z soon. Really liking the BC Coilovers for these cars. Doesn't seem like the camber option has to be welded on like the Mckinney set. Seems to just be bolt on. Am I right? Well I am located in the South Florida area, North Miami to be exact. Wanted to know if there is anyone that can help me with these. Especially since I have no welding experience. Also if I can't find someone, how much would a shop generally charge for this service? Thanks guys.

Cool. Thanks. Any help in the South Florida area??

Wussup guys, looking to buy some coilovers for my 78 280z soon. Really liking the BC Coilovers for these cars. Doesn't seem like the camber option has to be welded on like the Mckinney set. Seems to just be bolt on. Am I right? Well I am located in the South Florida area, North Miami to be exact. Wanted to know if there is anyone that can help me with these. Especially since I have no welding experience. Also if I can't find someone, how much would a shop generally charge for this service? Thanks guys.

Will try the push rod asap. Thanks BTW any idea how soft the pedal should be? If possible to describe? Im comparing it to newer vehicles and they are pretty stiff.

Sorry about this. I really thought I adjusted it to the right length because when I drove it then it was fine. Actually thought it was too short because I felt the pedal was still too soft. So do I bleed the MC again after adjusting it? Then drive it to see or can I just do this while parked?

Update Took the Z out today for a little drive after a few weeks of it parked in the driveway. Last time I drove it is when I installed a new brake master cylinder and booster. Drove fine for about 10 minutes, then I started to smell a burning scent. Thought it was just because I havent driven it in a while but then it continued. As I drove a little more the pedal became stiffer and stiffer. So luckily I was close to home and as soon as I pulled into the driveway, the pedal got very stiff. Same feeling I got before the master and booster were changed. Checked the handbrake, it was fully down, and now it barely can move like as if the handbrake was up. Felt like the brakes were binding or seizing up. History of the brakes are, front pads replaced, rear driver side has new shoes, passenger side had pretty good meat on it left so I left it. New master cylinder bench bled to the best I can, and new booster. Bled the system many times as well. Front calipers are still original I believe. Now it just seems like the brakes are stuck not letting me move as if the handbrake was engaged. Any ideas what to check? I remember when changing the front pads, one of the caliper piston rubber seal did not look too good. Could it be that? Smell seemed like it was coming from the front, but not fully sure. Did not seem to lose any fluids, did not see any leaks on the driveway. Help would be appreciated.

Cool. Yea I gotta get me a new set of some vise grips. Ill give that a try.

I tried with small needle like grips and didnt seem to work. Should I try bigger ones? Any trick to it or just as simple as slapping them on and turning?

Cool. Thanks for that info. Never tackled hard brake lines before so I really want to get this right. I did order my SS lines from MSA so Im hoping they are the right length. Anyone try a good vise on the rounded nuts? If anything a shop can do this right? With the right fittings just in case I mess up? Or does it have to be a specific kind of shop?

Cool. Thanks. I mean im no mechanic but gone through some stuff with all my cars lol. Just want to make sure since this is my brake system. Need it to be safe. Just trying to see if anyone has any first hand experience with certain lengths on how to tackle this right the first time thats all. Thanks for the info. Like the sound of pretty easy lol.

Update! Tried to put on my SS brake lines in for the front, but when getting the old metal hard brake lines with a flare wrench, they rounded off. So now the flare wrench cant hold on. My question is how long of a brake line will I need from the brake hose to the master cylinder? Is that hard line even going to the MC? I want to change the hard line that goes from the hose to the caliper as well, and it seems Z Car Depot has an 8'' one I need. But Z Car Depot has 20-40'' of hard brake line that im figuring for the other line that goes into the engine bay. Which do I order? Never done hard brake lines before and how to bend them. They say you can just use your hands and will not kink. Is that true? Or should I get it done at a shop? But I am worried they wont have the fittings like stock to fit my SS lines. Thanks guys.

Update of what I went through: Installed everything pretty much today. But still have to install my SS lines. I know the rear brake hoses are pretty new, fronts do look like they need changing. So far no leaks seen anywhere. - I had to pull out the booster so many of times to line up the brake pedal inside the car to fit the pin that holds onto the brake pedal and adjust and adjust and adjust. - Bench bled the MC as much as I can. - Bled all 4 corners. - Had to adjust the push rod longer a few times because brake pedal felt so spongy. Seems like it is more than 10mm like FSM says. Pumped the brakes with the car off and felt stiff, then when I started the car with my foot on the brake it fell just a little like it should. -Finally got it a little better but for some reason I feel it is still not firm enough. I also feel after I let off the pedal it comes up slowly with a little hesitation at the top top. But I still feel it is pretty spongy. How firm is the pedal to feel when the car is started? Should I bleed the MC again in the car? Is there a way to adjust the pedal inside the car without having to remove everything all over again (Cant spin the adjustment fork without the pedal in the way)? Too much free play? I would like these brakes to feel as stiff as my newer car and jeep (02 and an 05) Or is it not going to feel that stiff in these older cars with drum brakes? BTW My ebrake goes up 6 clicks like it should so I didn't mess with adjusting the rear drums again. Im lost right now. What should I do?

NewZed Sounds good man. Maybe I can start screwing it from inside and itll pull it in. ill give that a try the next time I can go work on the car. Thanks a lot for the help guys. Ill get back you guys when I get to it again. Thanks

Pillar Yes the rubber boot that goes around the shaft that connects to the brake pedal. It goes in but then like a 1/4 inch it decides to be tough to finally slide all the way through the firewall. Does it just need a little force or could I use some grease to push it in?

Had a few minutes to check the car again. I still do have the spacer. Like Pilar said it was fused to it but not a problem to break free. Tried to test fit the new booster. Seemed like it'll go right in, just having trouble pushing it through the firewall since the rubber is preventing me from being totally flush. Could I use grease to push it through the firewall hole? Its like a 1/4 of an inch from getting all the way through. Now if I can only get the old nut to just screw in the top stud for the MC I should be golden. Any ideas? It screws in the other 3 just fine. I dont think its worth sending back and waiting for a new one when it only has to turn a few times. Maybe some washers?

Ok. Had a few minutes to check the car again. I still do have the spacer. Like Pilar said it was fused to it but not a problem to break free. Tried to test fit the new booster. Seemed like it'll go right in, just having trouble pushing it through the firewall since the rubber is preventing me from being totally flush. Could I use grease to push it through the firewall hole? Its like a 1/4 of an inch from getting all the way through.

Thanks for the help guys. I hope I still have that MC spacer.