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D15T0RT10N

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About D15T0RT10N

  • Birthday 04/14/1985

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    d15t0rt10n311
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    http://distortionfile.com
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  1. More than respectable! A very nice run, and a beautifully engineered car. First thing I noticed was the 87 front clip conversion, very well handled. All and all an inspiration.
  2. The compass is a digital dash feature indeed. I can't wait to get mine working. It's not that great, but it's cool enough for me to want it.
  3. I have the Centerforce Dual Friction in my 87 N/A. It's a marvelous clutch. It's centerfugal, so at higher rpms its easy to shift, and grabs great. At a stop the pedal grabs early, and when controlled properly will snatch very well. I've heard complaints from the turbo crowd about them exploding under heavy load, but after spending time with mine, I think those problems are a result of abuse and misuse, not the clutch set itsself. It's not a 'normal' clutch, it requires a learning curve, but it's well worth getting used to. I would advise though that it is not one to be beat on. It needs to be treated with care and respect. You can do burn outs all you like, but if you do it wrong, lets say, revving up to 6k and just dropping the pedal, I wouldn't be surprised at all to hear it fly apart. It just wasn't made that way.
  4. Sir, I envy you and your nice pair of cars I'll be spending the better part of the day hacking an 85 GLL apart with my Sawz-All to gain access to the wiring in her belly. I'm not sure how nissan got the body harness in there, but the saw seems the best way to get it out. I might kick out the windshield and hack the whole roof off
  5. For one, 'Ram Air' is a bit of a myth as far as cars are concerned. It will increase the amount of air available, and decrease the net intake charge temperature, but it's not going to 'force induce' anything at highway speeds without a GIGANTIC cone. Think about it this way, what ever air is scooped up by the dam is going to be resistance vs. the intake tubing and piston heads. That resistance will have to be overcome by torque to keep the car moving. So, even if it does force induce a tiny bit of air, any torque gains will be negated by the resistance generated by the dam. If you want ram air, There are a couple of options. You could shield the filter from direct impact with incoming air/water. This way the air will still be induced from the dam, but water will bounce off the shield and drip down into the collection tray of your choosing. You could also louver the dam significantly so that incoming water would be deflected. Then there's the ever jerky answer 'just don't drive it in the rain'. You wont hydro-lock from mere rain induction unless it's the return of the flooding of the earth, but it's still not good for your engine. I personally would choose to shield the filter from direct contact with incoming charge, and install a redirection tray to keep diverted water away from hot/electrical components.
  6. I know how you feel on being lucky. I ripped out my entire interior over the weekend so I could rip out all the wires and swap them with an 85 GLL's so I can have full functionality from my digital dash. I was pleasantly surprise to find very little rust anywhere, the only noticeable area being under the seats towards the rear. After a good hard rain, sure enough, there was a puddle in the passenger floor board. So I will be resealing EVERYTHING before I put the new carpeting and refinished interior back in. I also learned how crummy the T-top drain tubes are, and will be redesigning those (and A LOT of other things) to meet my specific desires. Your car is beautiful, I'd suggest examining the other problem areas while you are at it. The corner glass isn't so bad, you just have to remove the panels surrounding them, and the bolts become easily accessible.
  7. I would not play with the timing unless you have an IC. Especially if you plan on running higher boost. There were a few changes made to the engine later on, one of which is the size of the turbo. Wikipedia has a detailed write-up on the VG-30 series. It's a good read. There is also plenty of other data available for you to use to help make the best choice. http://www.az-zbum.com/ Has a lot of great info compiled by one of the most knowledgeable Z owners in the community.
  8. I can understand that, she's a really nice one. Mines more of a 'piece' if you feel me. Needs a resto. Plus I don't have boost.
  9. It's 90,000 that you unplug it for good. Hilariously enough, the PO of my 87 found it necessary to yank out the dash and remove the light bulb I can't believe he didn't see the "Sensor light, unplug after 90,000 miles" tag dangling after he removed the drivers knee panel. The actuator that controls the sensor light is stationed inside the dash, near the glove box. Resetting it is as easy as pushing a button, just in case you would like for the car to pester you every 30,000 miles to check the O2 sensor. (though I have no idea if it will still do it's thing beyond 90,000, I don't see why it wouldn't. ) I think the dash light bug has more to do with dirty A/C current leaking than it does low voltage. (save for the actual batt light, which I have NEVER seen when my batt was low) There are diodes in the circuit that decides to switch the lights on, and the A/C current can have a weird effect on diodes. When my alt went, the dash lights seemed to enjoy flickering when I first started the car, which was accompanied by VERY rough idle, which cleared as soon as the lights stopped flickering, as the alternator cleaned up it's act when warm.
  10. Very kind of nissan to make sure the water can be drained out. I guess it's the least they could do if they weren't going to keep it from getting in. Your solution is far prettier than mine. I opted to sand everything down and coat it with rubberized undercoating. It's not a work of art, but it does do the trick. Painting the levers for the hatch/fuel door was a very nice touch, and I admire you for it. You've inspired me to go tear out my interior and find all my dirty spots. Think I might go start right now...
  11. Looking at their site now. They seem to be afraid to reveal a whole lot for free. I was hoping I could download a demo of the software to see what the interface was like. I've never installed/used any kind of ECU add-on before, but I'm no stranger to a soldering gun. I'm running an 87 Z31 which currently has an 87 Maxima ECU. I'm having trouble with how it runs, and I think it's because of my modifications. I feel confident that digging around in the ROM and changing a few values can correct this. Anyone who's familiar with it, can you just kind of fill me in on your experience with it? Were the instructions easy to follow? Is the software pretty functional? Did you find the company themselves agreeable to work with? Just how tunable is it? Anything else you can tell me that I might need to know before I drop $400? I'm excited by the listed features. It's like it is the key to all my cars deepest secrets. Thanks in advance, B.Crawford.
  12. With out going to the trouble of listing everything: CAI, complete duct replacement W/ Cone All emissions equipment gone. No Idle Control. New fuel system,(injectors and all) Ford 5.0l Fuel Pump, MSA Headers. MSD coil with full ignition tune up. Infiniti M30 Ignition Transistor All sensors new, or proven good. 6 months ago, the car ran like total crap. It would stammer, hesitate, mis-fire, and basically just run bad. I made 4 junkyard trips trying to find a good ecu. I finally found one, but it was an 88. However, the 88 fixed my problem entirely. I tried to do the resistor mod a few weeks later, only to find that the car would not run at all with the resistors in place. 6 months go by with no problems. After a series of unfortunate events thursday, the 88 ECU bit the big one. I spent the entire morning at the JY, and best I could produce was an 87 maxima ECU. Now I seem to be dealing with the exact same problem I had before. Just generally running like total crap. I can't be sure if I just need a new AFM, or need one that matches the maxima ECU. I have an 86 Z31 ECU here too, and it runs fine in the 86 Z31. But in my 87, same deal as the maxima ecu. Just runs like crap, and seems like it's not running enough enrichment. It's probably going to come down to me needing after-market fuel management. What are the chances that rock auto sent me 88 style injectors? Would that cause the car not to run enough fuel when paired with low impedance ECU? I've researched a bit, and found mixed opinions on the matter. I know the AFM's are physically different, and the Maxima AFM is 70mm vs. the Z's 80mm. Should this pose a serious problem? I will be doing some tests while I wait for a response, so I will have more working data when I check to see if anyone has the balls to jump into this brass ring. Thanks in advanced, B.Crawford
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