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Ssaga

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About Ssaga

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  • Birthday 07/25/72

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    Sweden
  1. I while back I took my car, (280z) to a dyno the result, (discussed in separate thread,http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/127636-thoughts-on-my-dyno-result-280z-triple-webers/?hl=%2Bdyno+%2Bresult I contined the investigation regarding the strange figures. I surely have jetting isusue, I however also discovered that my cam was way to retarded. After several measurements with degree wheel and indicator clock I decided to move the cam one notch forward. After this the measurements look quit ok, would probably be a even better with adjustable cam sprocket After advancing the cam these are the figures i got. Max lift intake lobe at 105 degres, approx 12,3 mm, defined max lift according to cam card 12,57 mm at 104 degreess Max lift Exhaust at 111 degrees, approx 12,3 mm, defined max lift according to cam card 12,57 mm at 108 degreess Intake lift at overlap 4,5mm Exhaust lift at overlap 3,5mm Below are figures I measured when camshaft mounted in engine. At 0,05 inch. Exhaust opens 65 degree BBDC Exhaust closes 17 degree ATDC. Intake opens 27 degree BTDC Intake closes 51 degree ABDC Overlap 44 degrees Overlap according to cam card 32 degrees The Duration I get with measured figures Intake 258 degrees Exhaust 262 degrees. Figures according to the cam card. Exhaust opens 50 degrees BBDC Exhaust closes 14 degrees ATDC Intake opens 18 degrees BTDC Intake closes 46 degrees ABDC Duration according to cam card. Intake 244 Exhaust 244 What I don´t understand is the differences in Duration and overlap when comparing to the cam card, this is very strange to me. I´m measuring this with valve play at 0,08 inch as stated in cam card and at the valve retainer. There are certainly some degrees here and there that are incorrect, but as whole I think this is correct. The big picture is showing a quit a big difference in Duration and overlap. I´m I missing something when measuring? The feedback I get from supplier are more aiming towards that the Max lift should be at the correct timing, and not focus on Duration and Overlap. For me this is a bit strange, I would like to know the actual Duration and overlap of the cam in the car. Grateful for any help. /Henrik
  2. Are you running any of Keith's jets?
  3. Does seems like a common weber dip then, anyone here that run with Keith's jetting?
  4. Contacted the dyno store today, they where out all weekend supporting rallycross competition,so hopefully on Monday I will have the figures. Regarding the 3500 dip, should I try to change the w low speed jet to 45F8 instead. Regarding the lean on top maybe go down one size in air corrector?
  5. Really nice input:) When you wrote choke 38, i started to doubt. Just ran out to the garage, it´s 36:). Using N42 head.
  6. Do I need AFR when I got lambda? I thought AFR and Lambda where two different ways to basically measure the same thing?
  7. M Dunno regarding the AFR, maybe logged in the dyno logs. Built the engine myself in Sweden, however sourced the parts in US.
  8. Thx för all the comment Do you think a bigger can would improve? I was leaning towards more headwork?? The dip at 3500 is only avoided by giving gently throttle until moving past this dip. My distributor has an 8,8 mechanical advance, so 17 then, I'm a bit confused regarding this. Firstly, the initial advance is set at 11 but is maxing out at 32, this indicates a mechanical advance at 21, but I got 17. Secondly, when putting more and more advance I never got any detonations, simply lost top effect. I always thought you put more and more advance until you detects detonation then you retard it a bit. Have no AFR fig
  9. Might add that this is figures on the crank. Think the scale is the same, divided by 100 then you get 0,93. You are correct there is a quit bad drop at 3500, to rich. Worked on that a bit without any good result. Carb is jetted: 38 choke F15 emulsion 150/180 main/air 50F8 low speed
  10. Just got back from a dyno session yesterday. Would be great if you guys could give me some feedback on the figures It´s a 280z-75. -Engine Spec -2.8l, 0,5mm oversize flattop pistons with outtake for the valves -Datsun spirit cam, 290 duration camshaft .490 lift -Mild Head work, match ported towards intake and Header. -New stock size valves and complete valve work -Z-story Header and full 2,5" exhaust system. -Lightweight flywheel -Triple Weber 45 -MSD 6AL ignition with zx distributor. - Compression 10,4:1 Ignition is right now at 32 total advance. Setting towards 37 I lost about 10hp, however no detonations, so then moved it back.
  11. Timing confusion

    I have almost same problem.Have double, trippelchecked everything. Cam and crank at TDC, distributor spindle at 11:25, can't reach within scale for timing. Also tried to change a notch on the spindle by lowering the oilpump. Still not possible to reach within scale. However the difference when changing notch on the spindle is that the timing goes from excesive retard to excessive advance. My next thought is that the mechanic advanced springs are old and worn, letting the weights spin out to easy. Pictures show the spindle positions I tried.
  12. Thanks! Right now I´m having problem finding the correct timing. With distributor aligned as in the pictures I was no able the reach the proper advance, couldn´t ever reach 0 degree. Moved the Oil pump shaft one notch, now I can´t retard the timing more than 16 degree BTDC.. Feel unlikely that there is a notch inbetween. The shaft sits perfect at 11:25. However the car is very hard to start and as said I cant retard more than 16 degree BTDC. It´s a 280zx dist with MSD 6Al.
  13. I´m right now on the final stage of my complete engine rebuild. Before engine start I´m double checking the timing alignment. I however seem to miss the V shape mark on the sprocket(aftermarket OSK) which makes me a bit hesitant. Below pictures show the alignment as i sits right now, can anyone please feedback whether it´s aligned or not. Car is a 280z -75. Chain, cam and sprocket are new and the the marking down at the crank is aligned.
  14. Also been inte ITM, however no real feedback so I´m a bit careful. Seems that NOS Fuji Intake valves are available on EBay. Harder to find Exhaust. There is a set of Exhaust valves branded Dokura, anyone have experience in these?
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