Owndapwn

Neat. I guess I'll keep checking back here for you?

PM sent.

Hey, I'm located in Smithville, MO (64089) and interested in an S30 Datsun (NOT the S130 and NOT the 2+2). I am willing to drive a bit to get it, and the 500mi range can be extended if the price is right (By that I mean much less than the car is worth). My price range is anywhere from $2500-3500 and maybe, if everything is good, a couple hundred more, so go ahead and shoot me offers up to $4k. My main concern is the chassis being in good condition. No/little rust, no bends, etc. Next is the engine. It needs to run and drive enough to be a daily for someone with a motorcycle to fallback on. The paint I don't care much about. If its too ugly, I'll take Rustoleum to it. The body work I'd like to be salvageable, but don't expect it to be perfect. If it has a quarter panel that's FUBAR, but the rest just needs some sanding and bondo, I'll take it. For the interior, I would like to not be able to take it to a doctor's office and have a blood sample be able to tell me if the car is anemic. Cracked dash, ripped seats, worn carpet, no problem. Questionable stains or smells though..? I get that its a forty year old sports car and several people have, no doubt, gotten laid in it, but I don't want evidence, I guess. Some stains might not be a big deal. I have a buddy who owns a carpet cleaning business, and I'm sure I can rip out the carpet and toss it in the back of the van and see if they'll clean it after their next job when the machine is set up. Long term plans for your (our?) baby would be to get the chassis restored to good rigidity, 2JZ-GTE swap (~350-400whp), new brakes / suspension, (tasteful) front lip and moulded spoiler, painted dark blue or blue-purple with a ton of metal flake, custom interior drawing some lineage from dieselpunk or steampunk themes (Wood dash, leather seats, brass trim, matching gauges, etc). After this, if needed, I might get a custom tube chassis commissioned (Like a trophy truck or sand rail would have, not a rat rod) meant to fit a VR38DETT (By this time, they might not be so rare), and possibly the matching AWD trans if it proves to be possible for under $50k. The car would NOT be a drift car, road racer, track queen, drag king, rally car, or made into a ricer. Will I occasionally go to a car meet where everyone is driving responsibly and obeying all traffic laws, officer? Probably. Main use of the 400whp 2JZ will be fuel efficiency though. I've been riding motorcycles since I was in first grade, so I have no doubt I'll figure stick out in no time, and I certainly won't grind anything. Stall it in first? Definitely.

...God dammit... This is the most accurate statement I've seen comparing two cities of the same name in quite some time....

I know it'll be a big project. No doubt about that. But I honestly don't think I'd spring for a 400whp Datsun, unless I made a custom tube chassis similar to what you would find in a trophy truck and then bolt the body panels and interior to it. That'd be ~$10k for the chassis, including labor from a body guy in town, but assuming I had the plans already, but unless a detailed engineering schematic exists digitally already, I don't think I could design one without all the mount points of everything and detailed measurements. May be worth it, since the tube chassis could handle 800whp pretty soundly, and no rust. But the initial cost is daunting. Perhaps in the future it could be done. The year is 2077 and all them bitches at the retirement home want to get in on my forcibly preserved Fairlady. Only stock part that remains is the measurements of the wheelbase and the body panels, and something about robot armageddon. My plan would be to, instead of saving X amount of money and diving in headlong, I'd save up the parts and tools needed. Buy the motor and trans, FMIC, harness, ECU, driveshaft, etc whenever I find a killer deal and can spare the money, and leave them in storage until I have everything, plus some money for unforeseen expenses. The bargain hunting should be able to lower the price, cumulatively, by about $2k, maybe more. And the parts could be used for a different project or resold if things didn't work out. That said, this isn't something I'll actually be doing until after college, unless I get a good job during. But I like to be able to account for things while I'm saving. There's a page of ideal swaps, but none for what it would take to get it to drive gently on the road. No drifting, autocross, or drag racing until much later (If ever).

He's talking about his air-fuel ratio. He means he's running a 10.5:1 ratio of air and fuel. 10.5 is a little on the rich side, but not by much. I think target is 11-12 cruising, 15 engine braking, and 10-10.5 when accelerating. This is for the 7M, and I draw the numbers from memory. I might be wrong. Anyways, got a buddy with an MA70 with a 60:1 CT26 (Up to 14psi). He's running lean, but not dangerously so. After he fixes his BHG (Which made it to 197k miles with the stock headgasket), he'll install the 550cc injectors and Lexus V8 MAF, straight pipe and downpipe. Then he'll need a new clutch because his stock one will have slipped itself to powder, and then maybe a fuel computer. Right now, with just the 60:1, he gets 23mpg driving normally now that he fixed his knock sensor and vacuum leak. ~6-8psi per gear when accelerating, 4.5k shift points, with the occasional 14psi, 6.5k pull. In a car 1300lbs lighter (Including his stereo equipment), the mileage should be easily in the high 20's. 27mpg practically, but capable of 30mpg if driven stressfully calm. BUT this requires the engine running correctly. Willing to bet that Pat1 has some sensor messed up that's making it run rich, or his driving habits are rough for a daily. The knock sensor is pretty much always out on the MA70. No idea about the JZA70, but stands to reason. Other than that, if he's running larger than 550cc injectors (Again, based on 7M stats) with a stock ECU, it doesn't know what to do with it and just dumps fuel all the time.

From what I'm seeing, all of these are for modded engines. What's the bare minimum setup needed to get it running and driving, but not necessarily racing? This would mean either the stock 2JZ twins or a CT26 from a 7M if the twins won't physically fit, R154 with stock clutch, stock ECU, hacked together harness based on the stock 2JZ harness, homemade 3.5"-4" straight and downpipe, radiator and intercooler, mounts, turbo line stuff, necessary fuel tank and oil pan, fuel lines, etc. I have a buddy with a Mk3 with a 60:1 CT26 and a K&N filter that's pushing about 280bhp, so I know the stock R154 clutch shouldn't slip at stock 2JZ power. Basically, get it from a daily driver with an L2x to a daily driver with a 2JZ. After that, the order would be basic performance mods to get the engine running happily to get better gas mileage, chassis reinforcement and complete overhaul of any rust spots (Weight be damned in this part. Still lighter than a stock Supra. Engine will pull), basic bodywork on any rust spots (Sanding, Bondo'ing, rattlecan seal), brakes (Will the stock Mk3 brakes work?), fully adjustable suspension (Similar to the full Tein kits with the computer that actively adapts the settings), a few more performance mods (Bigger turbo, injectors, MAF, top end rebuild kit, etc), aero body kit (Front lip and moulded spoiler. Maybe a rear and bottom diffuser, if I can afford it), a real paint job, interior (My long-time girlfriend is a taxidermist, so this leaves some rather interesting possibilities, plus we both have an interest in steampunk/dieselpunk designs. Wood lacquered black/dark brown with brass seams. The brass would more or less cover up the fact that we're neither one skilled enough with wood to work the dash as a single piece. Dark leather seats, gauge needles made of clock hands. Not the shit you see on Deviantart with gears glued to everything with absolutely no reason to it), and then wrap the whole thing up with rims. After that, I'll finish paying the bills and start work on the next project. A "classic" R35 GTR, maybe? I'm not a mechanics expect by any means, but I'm learning, and my best friend was the owner of Stroke It Imports before their supplier decided to sell to the masses and they lost their market edge and went under. That said, labour will be reasonably cheap, probably paid for by buying him some carbon fiber parts for his MA70. Maybe doors. Other than that, I go to a technical school for computer stuff that has a welding program, and it is not too uncommon for projects to be brought to second year students and all you pay is materials. The quality is about what the average hobbyist could do at home. The novice skill is offset by quality welding stations and expert supervision. If I don't go with a 2JZ, I'd go with an RB25DET. If not that, I'd go 7M. If it wasn't for the torque the engine makes, the 7M would be higher on the list, if not first. 280 ft·lb of torque (With the wastegate pressure put to 10-12psi. Probably closer to 300 with a straight pipe) would be miserable in a 2300lb vehicle until I snagged some super wide rims. Probably close to what the Viper ACR uses.