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Meatwad

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Everything posted by Meatwad

  1. Hey everybody, i know there are loads of information on these brakes on the s30 chassis, but where can i get the spacer for 5 lug? Ive searched the forum and I can only seem to find the 4 lug spacer. Looking to put s12w calipers on my datsun, but im 5 lug.
  2. Meatwad

    LSFest west z cars

    Heres some videos of daniels and davids z cars as lsfest 20180506_134847.mp4 20180506_135115.mp4
  3. Meatwad

    1976 280z 5.3 TR6060 Build

    Where did you get your ac mount and what compressor did you go with? Sorry if I missed it earlier
  4. Meatwad

    Ford 8.8 IRS Conversion

    If you don't mind me asking, what exactly did you do to center the wheel?
  5. You won't get 450rwhp out of a streetable 5.3 NA, even if you go 11:1 compression ratio. Lq4 can get you there, but the if you're going NA, you'll need to bump up compression. if you decide to go NA, then decide to go forced induction, then you'll want to drop compression ratio a little bit. To save you money in the long run, if you think you're going to go forced induction, chances are you will eventually. Building a mean NA engine will eventually cost around the same price as a FI engine. I say get the lq4, build it for boost. Do it right the first time and save money
  6. Hey guys, I have been lurking around here for awhile and gathering information during the very early stages of my build. In early April, I purchased this late 1977 280z. The cars is a pretty solid car. I have not found any rust holes in it yet. The car was originally from California so it has the "FLOOR TEMP" light (which I think is pretty neat). I purchased the car for $1750. The car came pretty complete and even came with a poly bushing replacement kit that has yet to be installed on the car. The original color is a gold color, but at some point in its life, it was painted the brown that you see in the pictures. I am looking at painting this car Deep Impact Blue in the future. The late 1977 280z has a unique luggage area where the floor goes up at a 45 degree angle towards the back near the tail lights. Later that week, the engine and 5 speed transmission were pulled and sold the next day for $250. I parked the 280z next to my bird for a couple of days and was quite surprised on the size difference between the two. I acquired a 76mm Master Power Turbo 1.0 A/R from a buddy. A couple of days ago, I purchased a 2003 LQ4 with 120k miles on it. The engine lived most of its life in Detroit so it was in rough shape externally. Surface rust, peeling paint, and aluminum corrosion covered the outside of the engine. There were 0 metallic flakes in the oil which led me to believe that there are no spun bearing. The spark plugs were not covered in oil or anything either. When looking at the exhaust valves through the exit of the head, the valves look pretty clean also. There isn't sludge build up in the engine either. I am pretty surprised how clean the engine internally is for 120k miles. I eventually plan on removing the heads and getting them cleaned up, getting the valves reseated and everything. I am contemplating on getting them ported and polished while the heads are at the machine shop, but i have plenty of time to decide whether or not to P&P. I also want to run an LS6 intake with these 317 heads. Today, I have been working on removing old peeling paint and loose rust. I have most of the loose stuff off and a descaler will be used to remove some of the other stuff off and then a wire brush attachment on the end of a grinder. Rust converter will then be used on whatever surface rust is left so i can paint the block. The rust and peeling paint has been removed from the block and was painted black. Also i just ordered an F-body oil pan, oil pickup, and windage tray. Decided since i don't need my power steering and i can't use the truck Ac bracket, I am just going to use F-body harmonic balancer and water pump for the extra space.
  7. Has anybody tried out the Pegasus racing roll bar? They claim they make them for the s30 cars and the design of this one is more appealing that other roll bars (more importantly it looks functional). If you have, how was the fitment? https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productselection.asp?Product=2403
  8. Meatwad

    Pegasus Roll Bar

    Yeah, I'm sticking with a 4 point roll bar as I don't like side bars and it is a street car
  9. Meatwad

    1977 Turbo LQ4 280z Build

    The inside will be bare for a long time as it will get a roll bar in so on, but yeah, I plan on it
  10. Meatwad

    1977 Turbo LQ4 280z Build

    Yeah, I'm so thankful for that!
  11. I'm glad this post showed up. I'm thinking about getting these. Ordering 1, does it include both sides of the front suspension or do I have to order two? Arizona sells the sides separately, not sure how ttt packages their products
  12. Meatwad

    Need info on a conversion

    I'd love to do a center exit exhaust
  13. i Used the fbody one, sits about flush with the k member
  14. I was thinking about using them, but didn't want to possibly wastd some cash. Decided to just make manifolds for my application
  15. Meatwad

    1976 280z 5.3 TR6060 Build

    Mine has a half dash cap, not sure how old it is, but it definitely needs to either be repaired or a full cap. Bondo is dinosaur technology. There's body filler with little fiberglass strands embedded in it and it is flexible
  16. Meatwad

    1976 280z 5.3 TR6060 Build

    Can't tell by the pics and maybe I missed it. Is that a dash cap or a perfect oem dash?
  17. Meatwad

    1977 Turbo LQ4 280z Build

    Now that it has cooled down, progress on the car has been made. I scored some free simpson 5 point harnesses for free. basically brand new still, It was time for the first fitment test. she fit in there almost perfectly. of course the old trans mounts were in the way. The engine fit perfectly as soon as the trans mounts were cut out of the transmission tunnel. The shifter even sticks perfectly through the stock hole. Also, before it was too late, i decided on buying a new turbo. I upgraded to an 88mm turbo. The smaller turbo had an turbine wheel too small for the 6.0, so i figured it was best to upgrade while i can. before engine mounts were made, i decided that none of the stock fuel system would be reused. The stock tank is being replaced by a fuel cell. the stock fuel lines and pump were no longer going to be used either. So i tore out the entire fuel system, including where the tank vents to. The worst part of this was separating the fuel lines from the brake line that goes to the rear passenger brake and then cutting the fuel lines into pieces, trying to remove the lines from around the rear suspension. Engine mounts are made and supporting the engine.Huge thanks to my dad doing the fab work!An angled plate was welded to the frame rail to reinforce the frame rails, but 4 holes in each frame rail was drilled in order to make room for a threaded nut that was welded on the plates before being welded to the frame rail so that the engine mounts could still be removable. with the plate welded to the frame rail, another plate, similar to the one welded to the frame rail, was welded to the post of the engine mount, also with 4 holes drilled in the same locations as the other plate. with this, the mount will be able to bolt and unbolt from the car.look at the picture for reference. With attaching the engine mount to the frame rail, the original mounts on the K member will be cut off so there is more room for the turbo exhaust to exit. The original plan was to use the stock exhaust manifolds, but the only way to get them to fit was to cut some of the manifold off and weld pipe to it, which is not what i wanted to do for cosmetic reasons. I looked into up and forward headers, which also can be used for down and forward headers, but i was unsure how well they hug the block and did not want to be stuck with a pair of headers that would also not fit. Instead, exhaust manifolds and the rest of the hot side is just about ready to fab up. I have my water pump temporarily installed and am waiting on the fbody alternator bracket to come in so fab work can begin on the exhaust. Mild steel is the choice of material as it is cheaper, plus it is very rarely humid out here, but the exhaust will be ceramic coated anyways to prevent corrosion and for cosmetic reasons. Before a trans mount can be made, I ordered bad dog frame rails to reinforce the flimsy OEM ones. To prevent risk of fire, the interior had to come out, The seatbelts, seats, carpet, center console, and some other odds and ends had to be removed. None of what was removed was being reused. Earlier in the build, I mentioned how rust-free this car was. as i was about to pull the first section of carpet, i was really expecting to see some major rust on the floorboards or something, but luckily, the car has really solid floorboards and it was a huge weight off of my chest!
  18. Hey guys, I'm looking for a radiator option for my s30. While I have found plenty of radiators that are the right exterior dimensions, I have yet to find a crossflow radiator with the proper inlet/outlet diameters for the LS water pump. What radiator are you guys running and/or what would you suggest? Temps in the summer reach 115+ degrees here in Vegas. All help would be much appreciated.
  19. Meatwad

    S30 radiator options

    Which champion one do you suggest? JTR called me and said they don't sell them anymore, so I got a refund
  20. Meatwad

    S30 radiator options

    Went with the JTR radiator
  21. Has anybody tried these coilovers. All 4 coilovers have camber plates. Looks to be good quality. Im thinking about ordering them, but looking to see if anybody has had any experience with these.
  22. Meatwad

    1977 Turbo LQ4 280z Build

    So a little update. Not much has really happened lately. I have all the materials for engine mounts and a trans cross member. Not much will likely get done until around October because of the 115+ degree heat we see in the summer.
  23. Meatwad

    1977 Turbo LQ4 280z Build

    So a little update. Not much has really happened lately. I have all the materials for engine mounts and a trans cross member. Not much will likely get done until around October because of the 115+ degree heat we see in the summer.
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