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Chickenman

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Chickenman last won the day on May 12

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About Chickenman

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  1. 280z upgrade to a 300zx starter?

    My 10.3 to 1 CR 280Z has a 280ZX starter and man it spins the motor over fast. Great starters.
  2. That's really old and outdated information from the original Bowling an Grippo software and early boards. MSExtra software, is totally different. That's one of the big problems with MS. Too many versions of Hardware, cam be built many different ways and Library of information is very scattered and often misleading to the neophyte.
  3. OP Do yourself a favor and go with Hi-Z injectors or Low-Z injectors with the factory resistor packs. The MS PW current limiting has some big issues. Doesn't work a large majority of the time with ANY of the recommended settings.
  4. Where to get exhaust valves for mild race engine?

    I wouldn't cheap out on Valves. Bad place to try and save money. Cheap valves can drop a valve head = $$$$ Edit: SI Valves are good, Ferrera are excellent. Manley used to make excellent SS valves for Nissan. They may still make them, but not listed in current catalogs. If you can find NOS Nissan valves, they are very good quality as well. Edited : Sorry about the SI Valve info. It was SuperTech that I was thinking of. Very popular in Audi/VW Turbo engines
  5. Race car and exhaust fumes

    I could have put it out the right side I guess. But somehow I think that would have only made me deaf in the right ear. Mid 70's. No Earplugs ( Cotton Wool ) and no DB limits. We finally got some DB limits around 1978. 110 DB at 100 feet... LOL. I was blowing 112 DB at 9,200 RPM with the side exit. Went to rear exit and got it down to 108 DB with a spiral core muffler. Sex, Rock and Roll and Loud race cars... Yeah Baby!!!
  6. Asbestos in 77 280z

    Asbestos is still allowed ( In smaller percentages ) in Brake Pads, Brake shoes and Clutch discs. You can get Pads ( Ceramic, Carbon ) and shoes ( Carbon ) that are asbestos free. Most brake shoes in North America are going to have some asbestos. You have to buy a Premium style, such as Carbo Tech to get asbestos free. Get documentation from the manufacturer on if the Pad or Shoe contains any asbestos. You can buy new clutches that are asbestos free, such as Feramic and Puck style. Feramic ( South Bend ) is fine for the street. https://www.asbestos.net/exposure/products/automotive/clutches/ Check with Australian customs to find out exactly what the regulations are. See if reduced amounts are allowable or if there is exemptions for Pads, shoes and clutches. There shouldn't be asbestos in any other part of the car. Only other thing I can think of that may contain asbestos is a Catalytic converter heat shield. I don't recall if that was an asbestos sandwich construction, but it should be easy to check. That can easily be remedied with a Stainless Steel shield if a Cat is still required by Australian laws.
  7. Stock cam high CR.

    I have an F54 with Flat-tops and an N47, slightly shaved. CR is in the 10.3 to 10.5 range. With the stock camshaft the engine was very prone to detonation and was hard to run on anything but 93 or 94 Octane. Timing at 32 degrees. Car has headers, 60mm TWM Throttle body and 2.5" exhaust.. After engine ate itself on a trip down to Cali, I had a new one built in Portland. Same specs only this one had a Schneider 280 cam. That really woke the engine up and it will happily pull past 7,000 RPM ( Head was completely rebuilt as well with new springs ). Stock cam ran out of breathe around 5,800 rpm. Can now bark tires in 3rd gear and it is so much more fun to drive now. Has that lovely 6 cylinder " Big Cam " Lope at idle ( 1,000 RPM ). You're giving away an easy 30HP by running the stock cam. I can now comfortably run 33 -34 degrees of timing on 91 Octane gas. I do get some audible pinging between 4,500 and 5,500 RPM on 91, but that is a slight lean spot in my fueling. Really hot days it likes 94 Octane better though. High CR ( over 9.5 ) and a stock cam is a waste of time on Pump gas. You can get away with 100 Octane fuel, but the question is... why? Unless it is a temporary thing there is no point. You won't make any more power than a 9.0 - 9.5 CR engine ( Stock camshaft is the limiting factor ) and you are just throwing money down the drain buying 100 Octane fuel.
  8. Measured from the very bottom of the strut, where the steering arm bolts on. These are 280Z front struts. Strut overall length is 14 5/8" after cutting ( not including gland nut ) . Spring perch is 8 1/2" from the very bottom of strut. Shocks are KONI Sport 8641-1142 . Toyota MR2 rears
  9. ^ Sorry been a bit hectic the last couple of Daze. I'll get them measured for you by to morrow morning.
  10. Megasquirt grounding

    I prefer grounding to the head or block far away from starter or coils ( If COP or CNP ) . Starter is a high EMI transmitter. I don't like any grounds near it. I've also read that you can get eddy currents near the starter ground when cranking. Those can induce impedance in the ground wires.
  11. Leak down test

    Nope. On exhaust/ Intake stroke you have valve overlap at TDC. Even on stock Cams.
  12. Just got these built up ( finally ) for my 280z. TT3 DIY coil over kit with Eibach 250 lb/in springs. Koni Sport MR2 dampers. And some other bits and bobs in boxes etc:
  13. Moving the Torque and HP curve

    No, HP and Torques curves cross at 5250, but Max Torque is usually well ahead of Max HP
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