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chrisngo

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About chrisngo

  • Birthday 04/09/1973

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  1. Sorry I did not see this sooner. It basically comes down to how much is your time worth? After doing my body kit and not having the proper facility, I decided that next time I do this I would get it done by a pro. This is exactly what I did. I needed two fenders and a front bumper painted recently and the shop (San Marcos Collision Center) charged me $300.00 for all three panels. The parts were done in ONE DAY. I brought it in Monday morning and I picked the parts up Tuesday morning. So in all, if you want the "experience" then DIY. If you don't want to go through the troubles, then take it to a shop. Money saved is dependent the shop that does it. For me, San Marcos Collision (in California) was the best quote. Other shops were charging roughly $125-$175 per panel. Thank you Chris
  2. LMAO at this very bad idea. You need to avoid that paint shop if you want any type of quality work done. Base coat (three stage) is applies only as good as the surface it is applied to. You will see all the imperfections (sanding marks) in the primer underneath the base coat paint. I understand if you scuff the body metal with 300 grit. Usually a high build primer can cover those sanding marks. Unless the body shop is going to spray house paint over the primer, I don't recommend scuffing it with 300 grit. Chris
  3. I wetsanded the primer using 1500 grit. Also, kept it wet with a spray bottle of water/soap. You can sand down all imperfections in the primer. I would not recommend wet sanding the base coat. Wait time between base coats depends on the paint. Look at the data sheet to find out that info. The sunnier and drier the weather, the faster it will "flash". Hope that helps! Chris
  4. Just thought i'd help revive this sticky. I have personal "backyard" experience with PPG DBC (Deltron Base Coat). Here is my personal story on painting a very large bodykit on my Lexus LS400. It took some time but I managed to complete the painting. This was all done in the backyard in HOT, DRY weather (in San Diego). I purchased my basecoat paint at Tri-City (they have a website). I gave them my paint codes and they mixed the paints on the spot. I had no idea what I was in for. The counter guy asked me what kind of paint I wanted and I said PPG. He was like...ok... and I told him that I was not familiar and he was more than happy to help. So we ended up choosing DuPont PPG DBC. I also purchased Wax and Grease remover and a mask. I went away spending about $150. on 1 qt base, 1 pt base, 2 bottles of reducer and the W&G Remover and mask. I ordered my primer and clear from SPI (Southern Polyurethanes). I purchased regular grey primer they sell and their Euro Clear. This set me back about $200 for everything including reducer. So i have everything paint-wise now. I purchased a stirrer from harbor freight. I'd recommend at least 3 stirrers. 1 for each color/clear/primer. Application: My gun is a cheap purple HF gun. Do a search loads of info. Scuff the surface (in this case FG) with 400 grit. Clean thoroughly. Apply primer. Wetsand Primer. Apply more primer. Wetsand primer. Repeat till happy with primer coat count. Let dry overnight. Clean thoroughly before applying base. Apply base. DO NOT WETSAND. Apply base till coat count is to your liking. *This isn't really important because it's really all about your clear. Let base cry for about 30 minutes. Apply Clear. Let dry to tacky. Apply clear. Let dry to a dry touch. Apply clear. keep going through the motions. Let sit for 1 week. Westsand with 2000 grit. Polish with buffer using a ~2000 RPM spin and Turtle Wax rubbing Compund. Careful with burns on edges and corners. Follow up all with Turtle Wax Polishing Compound. This is a quick rundown. I did it and my paint came out almost as good as OEM. I will tell you that it truly is all about prepping. Chris
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