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But it owns me, if you know what I mean. amen yadidimean..

The only time that would make sense to me is if you get a super deal on a car or engine/trans combo thats been in a engine fire or something and the harness is shot. doing a carb conversion would be my route then.

I got mine at the vw dealership. I just said old school vw welting and they brought me the right stuff.

They should bolt right on. I used a rubber welting from vw to make them go a little bit more flush. Its too bad I sold my 1st gen last week though. Gas prices vs. the rotary, the rotary lost.... Im sticking to the B series.....

I need z33 with factory boost....

Ive done that conversion to three 280z cars right already, I can say its pretty easy. For the rear, the 260z brackets and a 240z or early 260z bumper will bolt right up, after you get rid of the rear bump supports or saw them off, I usually saw them off. For the front you have to drop the front bumper supports and fab up some L bracket looking brackets. Drill the body side of the brackets to bolt up where the 280z bumper supports go, and use the 280z bolts to bolt them up.

Im a nissan nerd too, used to be a z nerd, but im concentrating on 80-early 90s cars now, i must have it all, comfort and power. Only one I like is the 240sx because it lighter and easy to work on and get parts for, and if you do conversions, its usually only one turbo:) some japanese silvias have the four piston brakes in the iron version as well. I would use either one, piston area is the same so is rotor.

at 17k alex, your best bet is to get it driving before you sell it at least. when I get back to the USA, plan is to get my b16a crx si rolling daily and find me a 91-3 240sx and do a nice generic sr swap. race you in either one buddy.....

I swapped a set of those "junky" z32 calipers and rotors to a s13 more than once, and they STOP... as for early z car, the vented four piston is about the same and its pretty easy, but those suckers bolt onto on a s13 just need to get the four lug rotor from brembo or drill the stock z32...

Im doing the gsl se front suspension conversion soon, converts them all to 4x4.5. So far so good with the rotary car, just wish it had some power. Im going to learn how to full throttle the altamont drift course before I start with the power though. My friends (drift instructors and rx7 freaks) insist that I learn to drive the 12a car like a maniac before I upgrade hp. I said OK.

jump the fuel pump with a long wire hooked up to battery +, if it doesnt come on, odds are its the fuel pump. fuel relay+efi relay is located under the dash and goes out sometimes. Could be as easy as a fuel pump. clean the lead to starter solenoid, if its cranking but with a small delay could be corrosion, just pull off the lead and put it back on again and see if cranking gets any better. Check battery voltage while cranking, if its under 9v car wont start. Do the running lights and start circuits work ok? With the fusible links, I usually use pliers and I crush them off the car at the leads- just to the points that the female ends of the fusible links touch other , so that when I put them back on they go on really tight, works wonders as well. This is a way to make sure that they are secure.

Id like to get a set for my Rx7. I got a s4 t2 setup coming for it, Hell yeah...

DONT DO IT. happy alex?

I got mad and went to the junkyard and just started pulling slaves off nissan cars from 80s. There was a z in the yard so I kept bolting them up the z trans and made sure it worked. Check the bore size it should be stamped on the side of the slave, go to the yard and find one size smaller or even more smaller. Grab a few of them, and try them on your car, write down the name and year of the car, when one of them works, you can either go to the parts store and buy a new one of that size, or get your roll on. I chose the later and the slave hasnt broken yet, its been about a year and a half now. I use a 200sx, 83 or 85 im not sure, but the smaller size of it wiill be stamped on the case.

you could try using a smaller slave cylinder, had the same issue of blowing up slave cylinders and going smaller on the slave solved it.

Havent been around, Ive been getting knee deep into my new(to me) 83 rx7. Just installed LSD and rear disc brakes for a whopping total of 167.83 with new pads, now my lawnmower has ice skates! These cars have solid axles, which I for one love to death, and made converting it to rear disc a matter of one brake line! I have this one spinning almost 10k rpm in about a year and a half, im going to build a extend streetported 13b for this one, but Imma drive the snot out of it first. Thought I gave up the z thing, but looks like Im going to pick up a 82-3zxt soon, hell yeah.... Havent seen Afshin in a while, stopped by to see him since he will be moving away from the SF city in about a week from now, which sucks since im moving back to Sf in a about a week from now, but hey we'll always have the internet. Anyways I think Afshin is pretty modest, he has the fastest zxt ive ever had the pleasure of driving, shoot fastest turbo z early body or not ive ever driven! He finally got ****canned that 300zx efi and went to the SDS setup, and runs a whole slew of suspension upgrades including an LSD and a huge wilwood brake swap. San Francisco city streets arent big enough for this car. Took it for a drive, and it hits 0-80mph on city streets in no time flat, with no fear due to the overwelming brake torque of the car and the R compound tires. Feels like a six puck clutch stopping the car, its like 80mph, hit the brakes, 40mph, just like that. 0-60 has to be just over 4 seconds or something. Boost hits same rpm as im used to, but doesnt stop and doesnt quit! This is at only 13psi! RUns tons of timing im sure. But it was only 13psi, it was pretty fast. Im not just saying its fast for a zx, its faster than any other turbo z ive been in yet, 240z or not, and you can take it there because it stops so damn fast. So fast we broke the shifter! Steeda tri ax on a t5, I guess the bolts werent tightened down hard enough on the shifter. Im pretty much sold on a zx, once you change the control arm bushings and some other suspension mods the car handles amazingly. Had a ton of fun driving it while we were listening to "another one bites the dust." still has Ac and better yet, T tops! Ive been in other zx's and dismissed them as pigs in the past, but my minds changed completely due to the experience of being a highly tuned version of the s130t. I may be picking one up in the next couple days, if that falls through ill keep my eyes open for one. Yes I know, its a Smog year car, like I care....

I like the 1st gen better for a v8 swap, a company out there modifies a ford 8.8 or 9" to bolt into the 1st gen chassis, and you can get any gear ratio for it. I just picked up a first gen and Im concentrating on that a lot more now. I think the highest ratio rear end you can get for second gen is 3.91, only goes lower (numerically higher) from there.

83 zx auto or stick should have r200. to run a turbo the size you are talking about you would either need a custom manifold or have turbo manifold modiified to accept t4 flange and have a external wastegate flange welded up, not impossible to do. Thats just the beginning, havent even started talking about fuel and oil delivery, as well as drivetrain, and etc. etc. etc....

I made that statement simply because I had to deal with a 1 to 1 final drive ratio with a Muncie 4 speed 327SBC scarab z conversion, thats where the screen name comes from. It was great driving around town, but jumping on the freeway and doing 60 (maybe even a little less)@3000 rpms in a 240z really sucked for me, and I drove one like this for years. Funny part is, the th350 and the 4 speed muncie and t10 gear boxes are my favorite transmissions... Period. I only broke one trans in three in a half years of bring sheer terror to the hearts of street race fans across the bay area, and that because I let it run out of fluid. My second one held up fine to all the clutchless shifting, clutch dumps, and other antics indicative of a young man obsessed with VICTORY.... They will put the power down and handle a lot of abuse, that they can do, being passed by minivans full of kids while youre engine is screaming in the meat of its torque band and going nowhere isnt my idea of an ideal street car. The zcar is too limited in rear gearing choice for me to think about using a non od trans behind a v8 in one.

stock turbo pistons are cast. I would get pistons designed for the cr you are looking to obtain.

Nissan 5spd and SBC Wont go together without big custom work. turbo 350 is good, but they dont go well with z rear gearing and tire height. it will get the car running and should hold up well though.

If the early Skylines, or any Skylines came to the US, I and many others would have NEVER got into Z's... They are what I always wanted, a mansized 510....

MSA makes all all aloy driveshaft with big ujoints, it costs alot.

Z drums are the easiest drums to service I have ever seen. A pair of pliers is about all you need to put them back together and take them apart. Getting the drum off is sometimes hard though.

I can believe that, since it doesnt work like it was supposed to do. Wonder what good a knock sensor could be 3500 and under??