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stravi757 last won the day on September 3 2010

stravi757 had the most liked content!

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About stravi757

  • Rank
    HybridZ Supporter
  • Birthday 10/27/90

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  • Gender
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  • Location
    Danville CA
  1. WTB SU Carbs working

    still looking
  2. WTB SU Carbs working

    still looking. anyone have a set of z therapy for sale?
  3. WTB SU Carbs working

    looking for a pair of good condition working SU's or newly rebuilt. 925-487-9302 text
  4. https://sfbay.craigslist.org/eby/pts/6207102303.html Please text or call with interests
  5. Voltage Drop issue HELP!

    Thanks for the response, Im going to continue to watch videos on tracking down short circuits, up my electrical knowledge! See If i can give some better descriptions to solve this.
  6. Voltage Drop issue HELP!

    Thanks for the shared link, I watched a couple of that guys videos and another video On "voltage drop" After watching the videos which were informative, including the one on "voltage drop" I still am not finding anyone describing the voltage reading I am getting on my multimeter. Yea Im not proud of my parts replacement strategy, I know its not the proper way. But I do have spares of every part laying around, so I just gave it a shot. I really need to work at better describing the problem forsure. Its honestly been a while since I have been on forums, I am pretty rusty at describing in words what My problem has been. Ive done so many things, I guess I am struggling when I write, where to even start. So thanks for letting me know what errors Im posts descriptions. To answer the statement you left me to ponder above. The alternator has not quit charging(although two have died). I have a old spare one in the car right now i just threw on. The battery reads 14.4V when running. But the voltage starts jumping all over the place. So the voltage will jump from 14.4 to 8v, It will go back to 14.4 then 10.7. It will just keep doing this and get worse the longer I run the engine, until the engine eventually dies. When I disconnect the alternator, the battery reading goes to 12.6. The voltage will continue to jump as described above I will make a video to show what i am trying to describe.
  7. Stronger motor mounts

    My car hasn't been running for a while now, so I cant say. But the oem mounts weren't bad. They were worn from when they were new. And I could feel noticeable play in the drivetrain causing a drag/and clunk feeling between up and downshifting. Most Z people probably wouldn't think much of it since these cars are prone to having really severe "Clunk" issues. But I daily drive mine, and it is really noticeable to me, even if its slight. You can see on the stock mounts the rubber separates from the side on the metal quite quick, causing more engine movement.
  8. Voltage Drop issue HELP!

    okay made a few changes to the post. It runs for about ten minutes until it dies. when you start it back up after that, it dies quicker each time. Yes I have tried different multimeter, and they read normal on my other cars I currently do not have the dash board installed. But when it was a few weeks ago, the reading on the voltage gauge read steady at 12v(that was with the alternator disconnected) There is definitely something off with the system electrically. Two alternators have died. And also as the voltage reading begins to jump faster and faster on the multimeter, you can hear the injectors make a louder and louder humming noise that sounds like they are being starved of power.
  9. Voltage Drop issue HELP!

    Hey guys. Thanks for tips on what details you need. My car is a 78 280z. Whole car is BONE STOCK, including wiring. Yes I have the FSM, I have spent hours tacking down the wires on paper with the help of friends. Z240- I have simplified the system as much as I could. I removed any unnecessary component that isn't needed to make the engine run. I disconnected the alternator I only had things hooked up like the Fuel pump Ignition system EFI set-up List of items ive swapped out with spares include/or new Starter Alternator Coil Transistor unit Distributor Efi harness Ecu Engine sensors Fuel pump Ignition switch Main harness Engine harness Both battery cables Battery All relays Fusible links I have spent over 100 hours trying to figure out what the problem is and have gotten nowhere still. I have tried reading up on diagnosing electrical issues, but I am struggling to find information on what could be causing the voltage to drop sporadically. really been feeling defeated this past couple months.
  10. Hey guys I am really struggling to solve this electrical issue and dont have enough knowledge to figure this one out by myself. I had an alternator go out initially. I just replaced it as it was very old so It seemed normal that it was its day. a couple days later the replacement alternator goes bad too. After poking around I put a multimeter on the battery to see if the second alternator was putting out any charge. the multimeter reading was odd. It will read 12.xx volts when you start the engine, then the reading will start jumping all over the place 7v, 3v 12v 8v It jumps constantly to random numbers ranging from 0.5v-12.5v and becomes more sporadic the longer the engine runs. I thought I would start with bad grounding so I replaced both battery cables and the battery with a spare. no luck I began replacing all kinds of parts since I have spares of EVERYTHING an nothing has fixed the issue I have now replaced the entire wiring harness including the engine harness, efi harness, and main harness fuel pump alt entire ignition system starter all relays cleaned and doubled up grounds removed/unplugged all accessories and much more I just keep getting this sporadic voltage reading that worsens the longer the engine runs, until the motor eventually dies(roughy 10 minutes). I dont know what the next step to take is with electrical problems, you guys got any ideas where to start with a voltage problem like this??
  11. WTB Mckinney motor mounts

  12. WTB Mckinney motor mounts

    Im looking for a pair of Stock replacement motor mounts made by Mckinneymotorsports They don't make them anymore and I really want to try out of set of them I Will take either their rubber ones or poly.
  13. Hey I just bought a used arizonazcar brake kit. And I don't know if the front brake set-up I got is for a 240z or 280z. Can anyone who knows tell me which rotor centers I have? Or the thickness of the rotor centers they have on their car. I would really appreciate it!
  14. Stronger motor mounts

    So I Bought them already and installed these light night. They make a very noticeable difference in how the car drives. The power from the car is much more responsive and smooth. It really reduced the drivetrain play, so when you press the throttle, it reduced some of the "clunk" these cars have common issues with. This difference could be seen when giving the car power and letting go of the throttle. so power transfer each way feels tighter . Overall, much more fun. As far as noise goes. You can feel a harsh vibration when turning the starter(no big deal). Also when the engine was idling(about 800rpm) the whole car has a pretty noisy and felt like the dash was vibrating. its not over the top noisy, but if you car is a DD or built to be comfortable I would consider it to loud. When it came to driving though, I couldn't tell any difference significantly in noise level! I HAVE TO KEEP DRIVING ON THEM TO SEE HOW I WILL FEEL IN THE LONG RUN because I do drive my Z regularly. The vibration at idle was non existent when the engine was warming up(1,200-1,300rpm). So I will try raising my idle to 900-950rpm to see if that solves the idle vibration issue. Some extra info: I was running new oem mounts and they were already showing alot of wear after about six months, they were running fine for DD but disappointing for spirited driving. And Now I have a 3.0 too. New transmission insulator Poly transmission crossmember bushing New oem diff mount Poly mustache bar bushing