Volition77

Final shot...I think it looks great, the inside looks even better!

Thanks to my super awesome computer/cell phone set up, the photos are out of order...but I spent all of today...approx 12 hrs straight, cleaning out and sealing the interior of the gas tank and stripping and painting the exterior...I was afraid the POR gas tank kit I got wouldn't be enough, but it was perfect...the inside looks brand new, I only missed two hard to reach spots that I can see...more to come...Oh and I had one original Hitachi speaker...thought that was cool

Spent most of today getting more of the sound deadening out and cleaning the debris out of the cabin...Very little rust if any..The PO swapped the engine and it's holding together alright...I had a huge fuel leak off the rail by the injectors but got it fixed...I thought I was going to use a universal wiring kit but thought it might be easier to just build my own wiring kit, anyone up to speed on that?...Any suggestions on the pitting on the one picture? I could cut it out or just grind it down to get rid of it..Also, I am looking at using Lizard Skin's two coat application for the interior...Anyone have any advice on this stuff? More to follow...

Datass, I am with you on the mess from the PO...I removed my battery and the car still had power for a good while...Good idea on the links, I will/should order them...I think I am going with the 22 Circuit kit from American Auto Wire, it will have everything and more for future up grades and isn't too bad on the wallet either...I will let you know

Thanks for the help guys, I wonder if this is what's been causing all my problems

Naptown Dave, thanks! I think I will be bypassing the heater core to cut the leak out...Can you or anyone else talk about how the car feels pre/post LS swap? I just want to enjoy the drive and do so in the L28, but I am getting a little concerned about finding parts as these just keep getting older, the LS engines will have parts forever considering how many they have made and how recently they have been produced..I am kinda looking long term too because I don't plan to get rid of the car ever

JMortensen, ihiryu and Miles I will give those inputs a try for sure, I just hate not getting any pressure/feedback in the pedal, I flipped the check valve to see if that was installed the wrong way, I don't think it is the problem as it will only let air through one way, so I assume it is functioning properly...and morbias, you are correct for sure, I just took the car for a drive around the block with plenty of braking and the lines where I thought it was leaking were bone dry...So I am really just stuck on no brake pressure in the pedal...The brakes stop hard when the pedal is pretty much to the floor but not until just before bottoming out...Could it be on the booster back side, where the pedal connects, needing to be shortened down so the pedal can actuate the rod for a longer travel? Thanks for the help guys

I have bad weather stripping and had some water get into the floor pans and it was compounded by antifreeze also leaking (I think from the heater core connections) so I removed the carpet and some of the interior to clean it up and get as much moister out as possible. I keep it under cover in a garage now and just have to wipe up antifreeze everynow and then. I think the first order of business will be to get the interior stripped down, all the rust removed and painted/sealed. I want to get the wiring cleaned up too, not really sure where to go for that, I looked at a universal kit from a good company and thought about just eliminating all electical issues with all new connections, wiring and fuse block/fuses. I like to do my own work, so I will probably get a sandblaster or soadblaster and get to work on it. I seen how to repair the dash, so I will be doing that too...More to come...I have a build list I can upload later

*Update* The main question I am trying to ask is to decide with a LS or stay L28. What do you guys feel is the situation with parts for the L28? As they continue to age the parts are just drying up, and the LS engines will have parts for decades to come...I feel that the L28 is what makes these what they are, but at the same time, I want this car to last as long or longer than I do...What would you guys say is the longevity and part availability for the L28? Would you let that drive your power plant? Hi all, I have a 1977 280Z, 4 speed L28E. I thought I wanted to go LS based, but looking at price and other factors an I feel like a nice, mostly stock rebuild will make me happy. I don't need it to be a screamer, I just enjoy the L28 as it is for now. Mine has plenty of problems and gremlins that I have been working on, but the great thing is that despite the few dings from all those kind drivers willing to bash their doors into mine and run off, or hit me an have no insurance, she is straight and no major rust can be found. I like ripping through the gears and just cruising in this thing, I can't imagine how awesome it would feel if I cleaned up the suspension so it was tighter and not as sloppy thanks to those dry rotted bushings nor can I imagine how awesome a rebuilt engine and transmission combo would feel. I am not closing the door to the LS base swap. I am trying to find someone near me (Florida) that has either a mostly stock rebuild or an LS or even L28et swap I could check out..Either way, I love this damn car, it's never failed me in the year that I have had it an driven everyday...The PO did an engine swap, but it's just another L28...I did a compression check, pretty much 135 psi average, still trying to find the numbers to see if that is healthy or not...I am sure I have plenty to learn and read, but any input or advice is very welcomed. Looking forward to learning from you all. Wish me luck, Volition

Sorry to take so long to reply, I moved and took forever to get things set up again. cgsheen, I will try to bleed again using the method you mentioned, thank you. And Phantom, I do have the split MC, I can't comfirm it's for either, I just ordered it through an Advanced Auto type place...So it could be wrong...I will look into it, thank you.

I can kind of build pressure with the engine off but I can press the pedal all the way through...even after pumping...I did not clean or inspect the MC, I just bench bled it and threw it on...put faith in "brand new, never used" words on the box

Forgot to mention that I have them installed correctly, I was hoping it was something easy..just my luck

Hello, I am lost on my all stock brakes on my 1977 280Z..so here it goes...I replaced all of the rear drum components, the front calipers, rotors, pads, soft lines are now steel braided, brake booster and the master cylinder...so with that, the rear brakes work well but the fronts require that I pump the pedal a bit to engage...I have bleed and bleed them and no improvement...I can't find any leaks, except on the forward most brake line that comes right off of the master cylinder...I tightened it and have got it to stop leaking for the most part, the pedal has no firm feeling at all with the car on and it has some resistance with the engine off but can be pushed all the way through its travel...any help or advise would be greatly appreciated... Alex

Hey, This build topic will be constantly changing as I learn and take input from you guys and other sources. So please feel free to let me know if you have found a better way or part for where I am heading. The goal of this build will be to take my Z from it's stock daily driver status and take it to a completely rebuilt machine and return as my daily and occasional autoxer. I am planning on starting the rebuild in the beginning of the new year as I am currently in the middle of moving across country. So for now, it's planning... Engine/Intake/Exhaust LS based - I would like to start with a 6.0l, either iron or aluminum. I am waiting to see what I can find in the local scrap yards. EFI - I want the fuel economy and space savings that come with it. Heads/Cam/Rotating Assembly - The LS6 components look like they will be enough for me for now. Still need to choose headers, exhaust will be based on what is best for the engine/performance Drive Train/Suspension/Brakes/Wheels T-56 6 Speed No clutch setup chosen yet Considering full T3 suspension/coilovers/disk brakes/rear end conversion/5 lug conversion - Looking at the Q45 for the diff and other parts - whatever ends up being the strongest is what I will go for. T3 Front and Rear Sway bars Polyurethane in applicable areas I have several rims that I like, but I will go with the largest tires in the rear I can find...I have a lot of reading to do on that topic... Electrics/Gauges/Interior Glowshift Tinted 7 color gauges - Speedo, Tach, Oil Temp, Oil Pressure, Water Temp Full rewire kit - American Autowire Highway 22 circuit kit NRG Steering Wheel NRG or Sparco Seats Power window and locks - Spal kits Dash repaired using the how to on the forums Body/Exterior Body completely taken down to metal, cleaned and repaired. Lizard Skin 2 coat system and Dynamat then new carpet 20 gal fuel cell All new weather stripping HID headlight conversion Fender flares Skinny front bumper and air dam 240 style rear bumper I will paint it myself...not sure what color just yet This is what I have so far...So like I said, please feel free to throw in your two cents...Also, I have two 1977 280Zs...My daily is a 4 speed and I bought the other as a parts car (it's a 5 speed). So, when this is all said and done, I will have a lot of the stock parts I won't be needing like the engines and drivetrain/suspension components...So when the time comes I will be looking to get those out to those that need or want them...Thanks and I am looking forward to getting started and hearing back from you all... Volition