Jersey

Thanks again G-Tech. Worked out good. Front 16x7 +4, 225/50/16 & 16x8 +4, 245/50/16. No spacers or longer studs needed. May eventually space the front out about 1/4" just to get it a little closer to the inner fender lip but IMHO, it needs to be lowered a little first, then we'll go from there. He's real happy with the look.

Thanks much for the quick reply G-Tech. No, power isn't anywhere close to your Z, which is very very nice BTW. If I have to stick an 1/8" or so spacer up front to get the space needed between the tire/strut, so be it. For the rear, +4 will bring the wheel in a little more but running a 245 (10mm more than you) should put the outside edge of the tire just about where yours is at. No (stock) strut/spring rubbing issues you see running +4 with a 245 in the rear? Hopefully I've got these calculations right, just hate to have him spend $ on a setup I incorrectly suggest. Again, thanks.

Hi all. Sorry for another question on this already beat down subject but, I'm trying to help my Bro-in-law with a new set of wheels/tires on his '83ZX NA. I've set up a bunch of S30's in my life but I know visually and from reading through 1000 different posts that the S130's wheel/tire specs are a bit different. Stock suspension, slightly lowered. He wants to run a 16" wheel, not have to roll his fenders and have the tire close to inside lips without rubbing. He likes the look of the RB-R's so here's what I'm thinking... Front: 16x7 +4 offset running 225/50/16's Rear: 16x8 +4 offset running 245/50/16's If I'm understanding correctly from what I've read, the fronts should fit without issue and should fill out the wheel well nice and a 235 would be too wide without rubbing or addition mods. The rears with 16x8 +4 w/245's may need a thin spacer to get the wheel away from the perch and out more toward the inner fender lip. I've tried to get him to go with the staggered 17's but he wants 16's so, that's out of the question. Any help is appreciated. I'm just trying to get him set up right so i can move on and start working on my '73 again!!! lol. Thanks.

Hey all from NJ. I'll be building a rotisserie in the near future for my '73 240 and just was hoping i could get a couple of questions answered from those who have done it. I've read and accumulated pages of info on building one but want to be clear on these items before i start welding. My Z is a '73 240 with the entire drive train, front & rear suspension, tank, doors, hatch and interior removed. Front glass and dash will remain. I'll be using 2 engine stands that will bolt to the front and rear bumper mounting locations. I'm sure this is slightly different for all setups but best guess from experience - Is 4" above both the front and rear bumper mounts about right for the center of the pivot point? I'll be connecting the 2 engine stands together for stability. Will 40" from the ground up to the center of the pivot point be enough to allow the Z to rotate 360 degrees without hitting this connection between the 2 stands? Thanks, Jersey

Rust on drivers side is/was pretty bad. I've already replaced the passenger side floor and support rail with Zedds pieces, halfway up the firewall, under the battery box & both front frame rails already. Right now, the drivers side floor, outer rocker and dogleg are cut out. I've even got the new tabco outer rocker and dogleg to replace but the lower half of the inner rocker is wasted, and knowing how much the rocker is considered structural, i'm just hesitant in tackling. May just come down to sucking it up and doing it. Thanks for the eyeballs out there in Idaho but i'm thinking the shipping cost from that far west would put me over what i'd like to spend. Thanks for the replies.

Hey all. I'm looking for an S30 shell with minimal rust. Unfortunately, my 240's just about unrecoverable and thinking a full swap to a cleaner chassis may be my best bet. Feel free to send me a private message with what you have and what you want. Thanks in advance, Jersey

Thanks. I did see his posts a while back and may contact him if nothing pans out here. Appreciate the heads up. - Jersey

Looking for the DS inner rocker, front to rear. I know, long shot but thought i'd ask. Any donor cars around here in NJ? Thanks in advance, Jersey

Thanks guys. Not sure which direction I'm going yet, just wanted to make sure it's all lined up properly when I'm done.

Thanks guys. I'm measuring about 40 1/8" so it may be out a bit. I think once I replace all the rusted metal, that measurement will tighten up a bit. Here's the best shot I could take for reference of how I was measuring. Thanks again.

Thanks. I'll try to get a pic up tonight after work. I was taking the measurement by laying the tape on top of the passenger side frame rail, nosed up against the firewall and stretching it right to where it's welded to the radiator support. Sort of tough to get an exact measurement since it's tight in there but, I figured something down to the 1/16th would work. I pulled the motor/trans out the other night to inspect the area because I knew the rust was getting bad, but didn't realize just how bad. Actually, I'm very lucky I did this because the end of frame rail rusted (damn battery acid) and has separated from the rusted out firewall section. It would have been pretty ugly if that right front let loose while driving. I realized this morning that I probably should have posted this in the "Brakes, wheels, suspension, chassis" forum but don't think I can move it now. Moderators - please move if you feel it should be over there. Sorry about that. - Jersey

I'm hoping someone could get me a measurement of the passenger side frame rail, from the radiator support to where it meets the firewall. Just the top length would be great. The more precise, the better. Thanks in advance, Jersey

Thanks Dexter. You're seeing it right, rear wheel openings are off. PO did a sh*t job which I intend to redo right. Everything else on it is pretty solid. I've dropped the @ss a bit since this pic but still needs to be lower. The 80's look isn't doing it for me. lol. I've had my '73 for I think near 13 years now. The deal with the wife was, trade the silver '77 and sell the '73 and get the Camaro. I seem to be having a real tough time putting the Z up for sale though Maybe I'll wait until spring when the market to sell cars is a little better. By then, I may decide to put the Camaro up instead of the Z. Sorry about the links not working for you but they do open when I click on them (?) They were posted a long time ago on here but maybe with the album changes over the years they need to be moved. I'll check into it.

Yes, my '73 in the background would eat it for breakfast... for now '67 with a mildly built 350...

Thanks Steve. Got it - Oil squirt hole on right, stamped #'s on left. Good find. - Jersey

Hey all. If you have a set of connecting rods lying around, could you please tell me if the oil passage that goes up through the rod is on the same or opposite site as the cylinder # stamp on the bottom edge of each rod & cap. Thanks in advance. - Jersey

I understand and do appreciate your reply NewZed. I'm just looking for some hands-on concrete info. I'm sure a bunch of HybridZ'rs have done this swap and was hoping they'd share their findings. I've read many posts from many sites that have conflicting information and was just hoping to get it all sorted out. Thanks.

I hate posting links to other Z sites but ok. Here's a couple that i can think of at the moment... http://zhome.com/ZCMnL/tech/240SX5spd/transmission.htm http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/240sxtransmissioninstall/index.html

Sorry guys, I’ve done a bunch of research and have come up with some inconsistent information. I hope someone can clear it all up for me and also help others with any of these questions they may have. So, here goes… I’ve found a bunch of ’89 – ’96 SX 5sp boxes for sale - are they all the same no matter which year or model 240sx? Is the JDM trans for these years any different? Is the 240sx FS5W71C trans proven to be stronger than the 280zx FS5W71B’s? Synchros & pins seem to be the weak attributes on the ZX trans. Will the ZX clutch & PP work with the SX trans input shaft? Does the pilot bearing need to be changed in order to accept the SX input shaft? Is there any strength advantage to use the larger SX 62mm countershaft bearing rather than the ZX 56mm bearing? If using the SX 62mm bearing, I understand that the countershaft bearing hole in ZX bell needs to be increased from 56mm to 62mm. Is this measurement exactly 62mm? If using the SX 62mm bearing, does the raised boss around the inside of the ZX countershaft bearing hole need to be shaved down or is this just if using the ZX 56mm bearing or, does it need to be shaved no matter what? Is it exactly 16mm that the 1-2 shift rod hole in ZX bell needs to be enlarged too? Does the Z driveshaft mate with the SX tranny or do you need to use the SX front yoke? Is it exactly 2†that the driveshaft needs to be shortened? Does the early 240 driveshaft work without any modification needed? Sorry for all the questions. I'm just the type that likes to gather as much definitive information as possible before diving in. - Jersey

Thanks guys. Think we're just going to build it back up, low boost, prob like Tony mentioned 10psi for a little bit then install MS. I havent done all my reading on MS yet so no idea about how we're going to control spark. I'm thinking as simple as possible until i get comfortable tuning w/MS and all bugs worked out. One step at a time before we're chasing our tails for days wondering what change did what. I do know that the 10psi setup wont last long because it wont be enough for him, he knows how to adjust the BC and, he has a real tough time keeping his foot out of it! ha. I need to look into how the knock sensor circuit works but rather than an audible alert, i'd love to have it light up an LED on the dash when it detects any signs of detonation. Can be a tad loud in the Z and he's hard of hearing anyway. That's what his wife says anyway. ha. Thanks for all the input guys. Keep ya'll posted. - Len

Thanks a bunch guys for all the responces. Alot of info shared and appreciate it all. I love to learn and build knowledge. Attention from some of the big wigs huh? Ut oh... i'm in trouble. lol. Ok, so here's the route we decided to go as of yesterday morning. Ordered a set of ITM standard size pistons/rings/rod bearings, ARP head bolts, Wideband O2. We were also going to install a standalone (most likely MegaSquirt) at this time but figure we'd get it running like this first, on LOW boost, just to make sure everything's ok. Once it all checks out, install the MS & get this thing tuned correctly, or at least a sh*tload better than poking and hoping. We built it on the cheap without standalone and we all know that only lasts just so long before stuff starts breaking, which it has. I'm SURE it's running real rich down low and extremely lean up top creating massive heat, causing pre-ignition/detonation. The MS should put us on the right track and to also see if the 370's can supply enough fuel for this T3/T4. Gollum - Thanks. To respond to some of your suggestions... H-Lifters - all in good condition and working properly. 370's - Hoping they'll be enough once we go MS. We shall see. Suggestions on a good RRFRP? Not trying to prove a point, just didnt have the cashflow to go standalone during the initial build. Always costs more in the long run, huh? lol. 60mm TB - just one of those things. Was hoping for a lil quicker throttle responce, almost seems too much, very sensitive. Should be good once MS installed. BOV & BC - BOV is recirculated toward turbo to help keep spool, short pipe. No rice here at age 45 & 50 but, we do enjoy eating rice! lol. The BC is a TurboXS, not electric type. Sorry fr the misinfo. Stock ECM - MS to come. Stock AFM - MS to come. NB O2 - Wideband to be installed in downpipe, close to turbo. MSD FPR - MS to come. Funny analogy and pretty spot on. lol. Fuel Rail - I made it out of fluted stock. Inside diameter is about 14mm. Good? MSD 6a - actually dead. Was going to replace with a MSD 6-BTM. Neccesary if going MS? Suggestion? NA 5sp - no, it hasnt held up well in his Z. It's shot as well. Have no idea which direction to go here. Trying to keep the costs down but also obviously need something stonger with his build/shifting habits. Ideas? I've been running this tranny on my Z with about 300hp without issue for a bunch years. We blew the T5's a few times so we sh*tcanned that idea. 390 LSD - woops, been a while. It's the 300zx 3.70. NPR IC - It's not tight to the radiator. I thoght that would run the temps up in both the radiator from air restriction, and the IC air temp from radiator heat? Guess i'm wrong on this. IC piping all tight, just about pipe to pipe. Tony - Thanks. We decided against the forged & to invest the $ in a standalone. Correct tune is everything at this point and should help stop grenading things, for a little while anyway! MS should help with this. Not planning on anything over 7k so we should be good. Had a metal 1mm head gasket in there and was thinking of re-using it. No good? I do like your "Maximum Boost" style build. Makes perfect sense. That will be on the list for sure after we get the MS installed and running good. And yes Gollum, i agree with you as well - when we do the head porting to create maximum flow & lower pressures, i'm sure we're not going to be able to hold back from cranking it all back up again to push its "new" limits. You know how it goes - 'lil more, 'lil more... damn... too much! ha. Infaltrate, Evil, Benardd - Thanks a bunch for the info. Much appreciated. Bottom line - HEAT KILLS. Tune it right. - Jersey

Hey all. Hope everyone's doing well. So, here goes... my cousin blew another piston (ring glands) and we're starting the rebuild process and was hoping for some advice. I'll list what he's running first. 78 280 w/83ZXT motor, P90a hydraulic head, stock bore, stock cast pistons T3/T4 50trim E wheel, .63 Stage III clipped, oil & water, bullet nosed, ported WG hole SVO 370cc injectors 60mm 240sx TB - Ported Intake to match GReddy BOV & Boost controller Stock 83ZXT ECM Stock AFM Stock narrow band O2 MSD Fuel Pressure Regulator w/boost reference Custom Fuel Rail MSD 6a '82 NA 5sp Tranny Walbro GLS-392 Fuel Pump 3.90 LSD w/CV's Large NPR intercooler 3" full mandrel exhaust/custom downpipe ACT HD Clutch/PP 240mm Just figured i'd list it all, or at least what i can remember at this point. lol. Our initial thought was to go with forged pistons since this is the second time (different cylinders) he's blown the glands apart. Here's what i'm thinking now - Save some $ going forged and replace the blown piston with another stock one or go with hypereutectic pistons - which i dont know a thing about, then spend the savings on an aftermarket ECM (MS, Haltec...) to get the A/F & timing values correct (safe) through the full RPM range. I'm sure he's running rich down low with the MSD FPR to compensate when in high boost situations but i'm sure it's probably still running lean on top, pre-igniting and causing the damage. Who knows, maybe the 370cc injectors are too small for that T3/T4 - i just have no way to monitor at this point. All the cylinder walls still look good with original cross hatchings and spec out fine so no work to be done there. So i guess my question boils down too - whats your piston & ECM suggestions? Any additional comments/opinions are welcome as well. I'm a big boy, i can take the flames if and probably necessary. lol. Thanks in advance guys, Jersey