ASA240Z

Lately I've noticed that the damper oil in my carbs are going down quite fast. Whats the reason that this is happening? Anyone have any recommendations on the type of oil I should try out?

hey guys, i was wondering if anyone had any suggestions for keeping the SU carbs tuned. This has been happening for the past couple years and I'm finally getting fed up with it. It seems that every time I tune my carbs they work well, no smell, no leaning out, etc. But I'm always having to retune them every couple weeks, otherwise they begin to run rich. I was wondering is there was anything by loctite for example that would keep the adjustment screws etc in place, but not permanently. thanks

lol I forgot about this thread... anyway I tried using the stubs from my Z but it doesnt want to grab the gear teeth in the diff. assuming the the stubs are stock with my year (72') would this mean that they're worn out, or the wrong part? Thanks

To make things short, I bought a earlier R180 4.38 and im having trouble with the side shafts. I was goning to swap my side stubs by it does seen to hold and I dont get an power to the wheels. I found in the sticky about the various diffs that the earlier R180 diffs need some kind of mod to make the side shafts work: "Newer R180s are availabe from the 84-88 200SX and have a large K cast into the top of the housing. They can be used in the Z with some modifications. The newer diffs use a stub shaft that plugs into the diff and is retained by a circlip, and the older diffs used a bolt in stub shaft. CLIP IN AXLE VS BOLT IN AXLE R160s/180s There are two ways to use the newer R180s with the original side stub shafts and half shafts. One is to convert the diff to the bolt in axles. The part that the bolts connect to is called a button, and the procedure to swap the buttons into a K diff is described below. These same procecures hold for LSD carriers, but the disassembly of the LSD is a bit more complicated. The other is to modify the stubs to use a spring clip, and then clip the axles in. http://www.betamotorsports.com has taken the effort out of this procedure by performing all the machine work. Just buy the new stubs and clip them in." http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=114798 First of all the article says that this diffs come for the SX's, mine is supposedly from the a nissan truck. Are these the same? Now, does the R180 that I have need this mod, or is there something else wrong with? I posted some pics on the diff I have...Also can some one post a pic of a diff that needs a spring clip for the stubs shafts to work, I not really sure what the difference looks like. Thanks

last night my car wouldn't move when I shifted in gear or reverse. I noticed that when I put the car in gear and looked under the drive shaft is spinning. Earlier today I put the car on stands and then removed the axles. I then started up the car and put the car in gear. To my amazerment both flanges started to move forward, what the hell is going on here? Whats something stuck? Before yesterday the car has been started since about a year ago? This seems like a diff problem since I just swapped it out with a 4.38. Also before I swapped it I had to change the flanges on top and sides. Any ideas why this would happen? Allen

Something like this? thank for your help.

Hey guys, I'm installing the tokico blues/springs on my rear suspension. While I'm at it i was going to change the bushings. I was looking on MSA's website today add I noticed that they sell "Urethane Bump Stops" http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/PSDC06E/23-4196 Where exactely do these go on the suspension of the car, between the insulator and spring seat? And are these in the energy suspension master kit? pictures would be nice =) Thanks Allen

Yesterday I finally finished the removal of the rear suspension on my 240Z. I plan to replace the bushing with a power suspension bushings, install tokico blues and springs, and exchange the stock 3.35? diff with a 4.38 diff (R-180). Now Im wondering if anyone knows how to remove the side stub shafts connected into the diff? Also does anyone know if the stubs between the stock diff is interchangeable with the 4.38(4.38 did not come with the stubs)? I've read of problems with swaping the stock diff with that of a 4.38. Sofar what I know is that the large K is on the casting. Also looking down into the side, I see the threads and futher down I see more threads for the bolts. Does this help? Thanks for the help! Allen

Have you tried Corbeau racing seats? Their quality is very nice and I'm sure that they make brackets that bolt into the original location. http://www.corbeau.com/ Later, Allen

you may of accidentaly placed the diode in the wrong drirection. I believe the arrow should be pointing towards the T connection on the alt, check if that is the problem. Hope that helps, Allen

was up guys, I was looking and planning to upgrade my old volt reg and alternator with a 280zx alternator along with dumping my points with a electric setup. I was looking at my voltage reg and noticed this funny looking thing. can anyone tell me what it is? it was bolted right next to the reg. Also next and attached to my coil there another one or similar looking object. I looked in my books but really didn't find what I was looking for. Later, Allen

1 fast z thanks for the help, I very much appreciate it. As for the message from J. Soileau RB26zcar, I can see your not very hospitable. Obviously to avoid getting burned I searched the site and others Z sites for any info but didn't get anything I wanted. Later, Allen

Anyone know anything about the E30 heads? I was wondering if anyone could give me some imfo on the specs of these heads, and if there would be any benefit in fitting one on a l24. Later, Allen

was up guys, My car is in need of some minor rust repair soo I was thinking about pick up a mig welder. I found a craftsman thats 80amps and is gasless. Would this be good enough for fix the dog legs, and floor pan? I'm sure it is but just wanted to verify with you guys. Any tips would help. Later, Allen

I fixed the problem...