NCZZZ

UPDATE After more investigating, I found the rotor button had alot of carbon build-up. I cleaned it and the car started immediately. If I am correct, if the distributor cannot transmit the coil output the coil will not fire. IE with a points set-up when the points open this allows the coil to send high voltage to the cap/rotor. Regardless, looks like a new cap and rotor are in order. Hope this helps someone else.

71 240Z with 2.8 F54 .040 / N42 Head / Stage 3 Cam / SU Carbs / Upgraded Alternator & Lighting relays The PO of the car already had the ZX distributor installed. It was utilizing a stock 240Z coil and the ballast resistor. It ran, tach worked -- no reason to really unwrap and look at wiring. Recently went on a road trip and the car was "stumbling" terribly under load (acceleration, climbing a hill, etc.). It seemed to also coincide with the tachometer needle "bouncing" wildly. Started checking things out this week -- then the car would not start. Found I had no spark from the coil (checked at coil and end of dist wire). OK, coil must have been going out causing "stumbling". Picked up a new 12V coil (this time the required type for ZX). Unwrapped the wiring to the IC Module and found they had connected the wire that is supposed to go straight from the '+' side of coil to terminal 'B' on the IC module to the side of the ballast resistor with the B/W wire instead ( I believe this would be the 12V power from the ignition switch). It wasn't passing through the resistor. I guess this was ok. I ran a wire from '+' at coil to 'B' on IC Module and from '- 'at coil to terminal 'C' on the IC module. Bypassed the resistor by connecting the B/W & G/W wires together. I still get no spark from coil. With key 'on' 12.6V at '+' coil and '-' coil. When cranking this voltage drops from 12.6V to 9.9-10.3V. Measured at '+' terminal at starter solenoid same thing - voltage drops to ~ 10V. Measured through fusible link - 12.6V until cranking. Measured at ignition switch 12.6V until cranking it drops to 10.3V. All connections are good (new connectors), new fusible link with new connectors. Voltage drop cause undetermined. Is this voltage drop enough to cause the coil not to fire? Could the E12-80 IC module have been damaged by running it onto the ballast resistor? If the E12-80 module was bad, would this cause no spark from coil? I am certainly no expert and I am certainly at a loss. Any help would be appreciated.

The tires all the way around are 195/70R14. These were on the car initially and are close if not a stock size. Would have thought there would be enough clearance even for these. The car has been on the ground for about a month and actively driven for about 2 weeks. Everything should be settled by now. Wheels/tires are on my list, although I was hoping to recoup awhile from initial restoration costs before anything else. May have no choice. I know the diff is about 25 lbs more, it doesn't seem like the CV axles would be 15 lbs. heavier each than the old driveshafts. I'm figuring between the diff, CV axles, speaker box and the difference without the spare tire -- I probably added 40-50lbs. in the rear. Would this be enough to cause a 3/4" difference in height between the front and rear at the rocker panel (the difference is -- lower in the rear)? I thought about rolling the fenders but I have seen some bad results from this. Thanks for the response.

John C: Spacers referred to are the rear upper strut spacers. They go in between the insulator and the spring seat. Rear is lower. Tire are rubbing on the flat edge of the wheel well. There is a speaker box (MSA) with 2 6x9 speakers. Possibly 20 lbs. total. The wheels are the old Shelby Slotted Mag type. Zero Offset. I wouldn't have a problem if the car just looked lower in the rear as long as it was functional. I've read some threads where using the 280 insulators was talked about using to raise. There was no follow up and no responses from the initial authors. Just want to be sure this is a mod with no other ill effect.

Just recently got my 71' back on the ground. Installed Tokico HP Struts w/ the Eibach PR Springs from MSA. The front looks good, but the rear scrubs the tires (195/70R14) on any dip or bump. I have been searching alot on this issue. Most of the time it seems the springs were reversed or upside down. It is just not the case for me. Here's the rundown: Contacted MSA to verify proper installation: They state part # 6305.001 are the front springs and 6305.002 are the rear -- I can see the numbers on the front and they match. They state shorter coils should be at the top -- they are. They state the longer spring should be in the rear -- as I remember they were. However, I found one post where someone stated the longer springs went in the front??? I can see that at least the first 7 rungs on the spring are compressed and touching in the rear. As far as I know the strut housings are stock. Alot of the posts state that the lowering springs are loose in the seats, I had to compress mine to get the seat and insulator on. Spacers are new polyurethane and are in place. I measured the ride height just behind the front tire and just in front of the rear tire to the rocker panel. There is about 3/4" difference between the front and rear. No additions to cause a weight issue. R200. No spare tire. Rear CV Axle COnversion. All new poly bushings. I have read about people using the 240Z Strut Insulators to lower a 280Z. Is it possible to do the opposite and use the 280 insulators to raise the rear? Any adverse effects if keeping the 240 struts & springs? It sure seems a waste to try and lower the car only to have to lift it to have a scrub free ride. I have a set of the 280 insulators and I will recheck the rear springs when disaasembling. Anybody out there run into anything similar? I am frustrated and at a loss...

Well, I readjusted the vac booster push rod to 3-4 mm past the face of the mount flange towards the master cylinder. Afterwards, with the car off, pedal was solid (as it should be). Started the car up and felt the pedal soften (as it should). Took a couple of test drives around the neighborhood and sure enough after each one the brake were now dragging to the point of lock. Starting adjusting the rod back. Seemed OK. Took the car out for a pretty decent run and had to stop 4 times and readjust. When it was all said and done, the push rod is essentially back to where I started. I am certainly no expert, I just don't get it (well, I did get it straight anyway). The car was started before and had vacuum but I had no pedal at the original adjustment per the FSM. Can anyone explain? In conclusion, it appears the FSM description of adjusting the rod to a depth of 3-4 mm from the face of the mounting flange was correct. They sure did not tell you you would have to start from the other end and then adjust back to it. Hope this helps someone else out there.

Thanks, Miles. Sounds like I probably did adjust in the wrong direction. Guess I'll be disassembling. For some reason the word "depth" in the FSM description got me turned around. The Haynes description does sound like the rod end would be out in front of the flange instead of inside. I'll post tomorrow if that is the case. If some other dumb schmuck happens to read the manual the way I did, here it is... I've been over every inch of this car over the lat 15 months...I think I am almost at "burn out". I'm ready to drive this thing. It is 99% except for the brake issue. Later...

1971 240 push rod dilemma. I put on a new brake master & vacuum booster. I have almost no pedal. I bled the master cylinder initially and once again when it was on the car--was getting no air bubbles. Bled all other lines. Fluid was pushed through OK when bleeding, though it was not forceful. I verified that the reaction disc is in place in the booster. My question about the push rod is the adjustment. The factory service manual states as follows: "Upon completion of the assembly, adjust push rod end height so that depth from the flange surface to the push rod end is 3.5 - 4 mm." Go figure, I did not pay attention before I took the old core back -- it is long gone. Is this adjustment measured with the push rod end adjusted towards the inside or outside of the flange mounting surface? I took the word "depth" in the manual to mean the push rod would be measured from the end to the flange surface from inside the booster. Is it possible I have the push rod adjusted the wrong way? Any input would be greatly appreciated!

What are S1 and S2 transmissions? I have never heard them referred to in that way. The tranny I have is from an 83 ZX NA. I have no idea which one it would be as there was no shift lever included. I know I have seen posts about this issue, but I am apparently not typing in the right phrase. Anyone have something tagged?

I have a 71' 240Z. I have already put in a 5-speed from an 83ZX. Unlike the swaps I have done on 72+ 240's, there seems to be a problem with the fitment of the gear shift lever and clearance of in the console. I know about having to cut 1-2" in the opening. What can you do about the issue above with the lever clearing the console? I don't want to heat up my lever and try bending without some rough idea of the shape. I have not seen one, but I am told that MSA used to sell a special shifter just for this issue. Of course, they no longer sell it. If anyone has one not being used, I would be interested. If anyone has one and can send a pic and/or some measurements, that would be just as good.

Thanks, Nigel. The driveshaft shop I am working with has a length of 29.875" on file as the length from end of slip yoke to the face of the rear flange. This is equivalent to 758mm. Based on your measurement, I'll have to say they are probably close enough to go with that. I was looking to verify their measurement before I spend the money. NCZZZ

I have a 1971 Datsun 240Z. The car initially still had the straight mustache bar resulting in the old incorrect drive angle problem. I have since installed an R200 Diff. and installed the curved mustache bar. The car also now has a 5 spd. transmission from 83 ZX. My problem is that I do not have the appropriate drive shaft to measure (to have one made) as the original one is now too short. I know that I need a driveshaft from a 72'-74' (72'-73' 240Z/74' 260Z) Coupe. I am looking for the measurements from the correct driveshaft from the end of the transmission slip yoke to the face of the rear pinion flange. I have one measurement at 29 7/8". Just looking to verify.

WTB the small wiring harness that has the wires for the fuel sending unit and fuel pump in VGC with all connectors. I have a 71 240Z

Want to buy the clips that hold the straps underneath the seat (they clip into the seat frame with the straps attached to hold up the seat foam) from a 71 240Z. If you have the straps as well in VGC I would be interested as well.

Thanks for the input. I really could not see the need for the back plate when using higher performance braking components other than possibly water. The car will probably not see too many adverse weather conditions--although it will be driven! Noted on the possible use of plates for brake ducting. Thanks.