Shanks

Hey Mmaxim, did you ever mount these wheels with these coilovers? Would love to know how the fitment turned out.

No I would be very interested in doing lots of different things if I had a build worth ripping around in. The question I was asking was more if I had that much power would it m\be too much to enjoy a casual drive. I didn't really communicate that very well, but since then I have found my answer, which is yes, I could still enjoy driving it around town and on back roads, etc. I am actually flipping back and forth on this continually. I am going to do another big spread sheet of the L28et and a possible 2jz build. Still very undecided.

Definitely share your sentiments in regards to building a strong motor and spending more money upfront rather than rolling the dice. It's one of the reasons I am as detailed as I try to be and ask the tough questions. As far as the video goes, I love his channel. It's a really real example of how a DIY build goes. He's not afraid to be honest and show his mistakes but he does have a solid idea of what he's doing. Really liked his coil over install.

This guy's sentiments are really great regarding this exact topic. Man the world is a small place. Start at 1:38 if it doesn't start there automatically. https://youtu.be/TJYUOGZzbWo?t=1m38s

Yes, 400 is very reachable in the l28et even with stock internals according to online resources, but practically speaking it starts gets iffy. I have probably read all of the same materials as you have, but as I make builds, start counting costs, and look at the results of other people who have built what 'should' get you 400 hp, they are not getting there. In my experience, with any platform you have 2 zones, cheap power zone and expensive power zone. It seems that the border between these 2 zones is a grey area around 375. And like everyone said, that's probably enough for most people on an engine that bolts right into a car that is very light. For all practical purposes this is a great place to be. It is the best option hands down for someone who wants to respect the originality of the car and get some good performance, too, but I don't think it is necessarily the best option cost wise if you are looking for power beyond 400 and you don't feel conflicted with cutting things on the car.

I really dived into creating a parts list for the 2JZ build tonight and would love to do it, but the more I look into it the more I am realizing, while I could do it and would love it, I am not sure I want to spend that kind of time and money on the 240z, no matter how much I love it. For the 2JZ it would involve a significant amount of additional fabrication as well as higher costs all around in other departments, especially labor as I just don't have the time to learn and do this myself. I would rather make sure I take care of my retirement goals every year and have a kick ass L28et I can put right in myself and have the project finished in a few months if I want to. The diminishing returns I would get for the amount of work for an extra 100 or 200 HP doesn't make sense on the 2JZ, but I did enjoy the feedback from you guys so thanks for your input! There's nowhere like here to have a good convo about these cars. I tried to give out some likes but I don't have the rep I'm afraid.

Great feedback! Keep it coming.

The period of the engine used to be more important to me before I had a second Z that was completely stock and restored. Now I just want to have fun. The Z this is going in is rough around the edges and not very valuable being it's not a series 1, but I'm still keeping it Japanese and straight 6. Looks like weight is similar between the RB25 and 2JZ, but I do share your concern about the weight and also the shift of weight forward. I remember reading that with either of these engines it pushes a lot more weight towards the front of the car, which can throw off its center of balance fairly well. The more I research this the more I feel confident in my decision though. I see a lot of people pulling out there L28et for an engine that can make more power. I really like what this guy has to say: https://youtu.be/TJYUOGZzbWo As far as driving for fun in the mountains and back roads, is a build around 600 hp and appropriate mods for the suspension just too much to enjoy? I'm seeing a lot of Datsuns with this kind of power.

At this point I think I am really just looking for someone to confirm that for around 12k I would get more power out of a 2jz than a L28et. Not really interested in other platforms I think. Transmissions for 2jzs are stupid expensive.

Yes, you're exactly right. I also think that this is the obvious choice, it's just that I cant bring myself to do an LS swap on my Japanese dream car. At first I didn't even like the idea of the 2jz but after comparing them to the Rb25 I am willing to make the compromise. However, if finances continue the way they are right now I do plan to scratch my LS itch with a BMW e30! We will see.

This is my 2nd 240Z project. First one was kept original, this project is a restomod. Car will mostly be driven on the road and taken to shows and a track occasionally. Really don't want to do a build project if it's going to end up being slower than today's stock sports car from the factory. I put together a L28ET build a while ago for my 71 240z. PDF attached with the rough details. My goals were to try my best at breaking 400hp at the dyno, but after reviewing similar set ups here on this forum I am wondering if I can really make those numbers with my build plan. What say you? If not, I am considering doing a 3.0 stroker, which would add at least 3-4k to the cost based on my current estimates. At that point, the total performance expenses would be around 12k or more plus unexpected costs. The stroker would put me well over 400hp (which I would be very happy with), but I would also need to spend more money on strengthening the chassis at that point, and if I wanted more HP down the road it would be tough to squeeze any more out of it. If I am willing to spend 12k on the engine alone, would I not be better off going with an RB25DET or 2JZ? It seems like either of those platforms would actually be cheaper than a stroked L28ET and for the same money I could get a lot more power. (I have separate sheets for my brake and suspension needs, but ignore that for the sake of this topic.)

Very nice numbers in your sig RebekahsZ. Very nice. Thankfully I already restored the interior which is why I didn't put it in the budget. I don't see me putting a cage in my z at any point. I am not saying I will never track the car, but I am not looking to make records with this car. I am looking to have a good build to enjoy personally, and I also want to make sure I don't turn this thing into a dedicated track car. If I track it, it will be for the sole purpose of getting to really let it go and have some fun. You are absolutely right about everything you said, but I don't think my goals line up with that level of suspension modification. However, I think coilovers do line up with what I want out of my z, so I will plan on doing that and not stop short. I hope it doesn't cost twice as much as I budgeted for. I have been lucky enough to part out the 280zx that I got the l28et out of and get almost all my money back, so that is $750 I have come out with already. Thanks for bringing up the gauges and other parts as I definitely forgot about that. Let me know if there is anything else you can think of. I am happy about the responses so far because I was afraid there was something that I seriously missed so I feel pretty good so far.

Thanks for the reply guys. The current l28et that I have on a stand has something in the combustion chamber from a rodent or something. The car I pulled it from was sitting for as least 7 years and I just feel like any engine you are going to boost past stock should be cleaned up properly beforehand, especially if it is going to cost only 500 to do so. I would much rather pay 500 now and have a good clean engine than have to rip it back out later. I really can't answer that turbo question as I didn't learn as much about turbos when I was rebuilding engines so I need to read up on it a little bit more to see what I should really get. What would you suggest I get for my build? I get what you're saying completely. In the case of detonation it won't matter too much what's inside, but forged pistons do help create a more healthy engine over time by reducing stress on the internals. However, it is only worth it at a certain amount of boost. I already made sure to get a good tunable ECU system like megasquirt. Will definitely take it to get it tuned accurately by a professional before I drive it around. Would you guys agree the latest megasquirt 2 would be enough for my build? Based on what I can tell it would be more than enough. Also, are there any other components that I am missing besides the preassembled kit that I would need to get it to work? Sorry for all the questions I just want to make sure there isn't anything I have overlooked.

Hey everyone, I have been a lurker here for a while but I feel I have saved up enough and planned enough to have you check my build plans as they now stand. Attached is my build list of parts. My goal is to take my current stock 240z back to like new with modern touches. I would like to be sitting comfortably above 300 WHP with an l28et. I am looking for good suspension but I am not looking to track so I am not sure if coil-overs are necessary. Please check the build list first before you comment. I have rebuilt 2 engines back to stock but this is my first true performance build so I would love some direct input from more experienced members. Big questions currently in my mind: Will I be happy with the suspension I have selected? I am afraid it will be sitting too high and/or I will be unhappy with the fact that I couldn't adjust anything should the need arise. Should I budget for forged pistons? It seems the stock bottom end would handle my build but to me forged would gaurantee it and the lighter pistons would just be good for it anyway, but I am not going to go forged if I don't need to. Are there any major parts I have forgotten? I am budgeting an extra $1000 for small things I will end up buying like tools and misc parts. I assume I will get many of the parts for cheaper than I listed but I would rather over estimate now and come out better than expected. Thanks! I already have an l28et that I pulled out of an old 280zx and it is sitting on a stand in my garage. I will be sending it in to get machined and cleaned after I decide on a few more things. 240z Project Fleshed Out Sheet1.pdf 240z Project Fleshed Out Sheet1.pdf

Looking for some better pics of XXR 530s. Looked through the wheel thread and searched but couldn't find anything besides these two: http://i982.photobucket.com/albums/ae305/Kyle_G/Amber/20130710_200220_zps7b25c04d.jpg http://forum.mazda6club.com/attachments/newbie-section/91809d1376681600-new-member-new-2014-mazda6-image.jpg I really like the second application but the first looks terrible in my opinion. I would like to see more pictures to see if it was the wheel color or tire size or what that made the rims look so bad compared to the second application.

I did some more searching today and found a great thread here:http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/17546-good-transdiff-combos-for-l28et-240z/

If the equipment is indeed in usable condition than I feel better about it. I will have to make sure about that later though. And you are right about the T5 there is more fabrication that is needed. For now, I am second guessing the gears for my engine set up, so lets forget about the guy and focus on transmissions and diffs. I see lots of people who are doing l28et swaps into the 240z go with a 77-79 3.321 (first gear) transmission and pair it with a r200 3.9 for the quickest acceleration, but I have read that with anything larger than a stock turbo the gears are so quick that it is better to go with a taller gear ratio to give your turbo time to catch up. My question is, is the 81-83 NA transmission with the 3.062 first gear going to be overkill? Or should I keep the 77-79 transmission and go with a R200 3.545? Links to other set ups that I haven't found would be great I just haven't had any luck finding them.

The problem with the r200 is that one of the CV axles doesn't fit, which may be because it is the long CV axle not fitting into the short side of the differential but because of the way this guy swindled me (and dropped off contact) I don't trust the parts he gave me either. I have tried switching the axles but the other side seems to be jammed. Your question is a good one so I will lay out my planned build for you briefly. My build will be a non-stroked l28et with forged pistons matched with a hybrid t3/t4 turbo, intercooled into a late model 1971 240z all run on megasquirt II. I haven't purchased the stand alone, turbo, or the intercooling yet but I did just get the rebuilt block and head back from the shop and now I am taking a closer look at my transmission options before I get ahead of myself. To my understanding, it would be better to have higher gear ratios for my set up because the l28et with the larger turbo will need more time to spool, which is why I was interested in the 77-79 five speed but really could have used the t5 that came in the 2+2, along with the rear diff to save myself some money, and then scrapped the rest of the car and gotten say $500 back which would have almost paid for my turbo. Also, I think the only thing the Borg Warner t5 needs to fit into a 240z is a few inches cut out of the console, which is something I would have no problem with. Thanks for your time I really appreciate it! What transmission and diff combination would you suggest for my set up? The car may see some track time but I am mostly planning on having and well built 240z that can go.

Hello everyone, Long time reader first time poster. Just double checking with everyone here because I pulled my l28et out of an '83 280zx 2+2 that I found in a junk yard for $800 and was approached by someone who was willing to trade me what was left of the car for a close ratio transmission and rear diff. The car itself was in terrible, terrible shape so I agreed and he showed up later that week with a truck to tow it away. He gave me the parts he promised and towed the really junky 280 for free so I thought it was fair enough. Fast forward two or three weeks, now that the engine is in good shape and ready to go in my 240z, I have just now noticed that the rear diff isn't functioning as it should and the transmission isn't looking any better, I also am just now realizing that the parts he gave me are the same ones that would have come off the 83 280zx anyway..... At least according to this link: http://www.zhome.com/ZCMnL/tech/GearRatios.html So my question for you guys is, is it not true that the ideal ratios I would have been looking for in the first place were already on the 83 280zx 2+2 I purchased and I am a dumb ass for giving them all away for broken parts?

Hello, I am located in Greensboro NC and I am looking for several specific things for my 1971 Z. 81-83 l28ET with p-90 head, ecu, and wiring harness. If you have aftermarket ECU that's ok. (But must come with engine.) 77-79 5 speed manual trans. I am willing to travel up to 4 hrs to pick up parts, if you are further than that I will consider but would also like you to consider meeting me at the 4 hour mark. PM me with what you have and the price you are looking for and I will PM you back with an answer and contact information if it sounds good to me. I check my PMs regularly everyday so feel free to drop a line. I have my whole project planned out and recorded in an excel spreadsheet, and already have the funds set aside, so please consider PMing me as I have been waiting a while to start on this project. Regards, Jonathan