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g0dsmack

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About g0dsmack

  • Birthday 04/19/1987

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Oxnard, CA

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  1. Slowly but surely getting that LS1 prep'd to enter the beast!

  2. I know what you are talking about... did you look at that piece of #&@t, construction is subpar and it doesn't come with anything else. If you go to the Kragen version of O'Rileys, Kragen.com, they have a few others. The really cheap ones are essentially just cores and appear to be poor construction. I need/want the whole thing. Look at Raybestos Professional Grade Master Cylinder, Part Number: MC39277. That is what I am looking at, which is about $200. I am a strong believer in you get what you pay for. I paid good money for my Arizona Z car brakes... when they got here and I went through the 91 lbs of equipment I quickly understood where my money was going. Talk about qualitly and professional. If no one gets back to me that Raybestos MC will probably be on its way. I just need to make sure you get what you see there.
  3. I just got an Arizona Z brake kit and would like to upgrade to a 1979-1981 ZX master cyl . I need it ASAP! Let me know how much. -Casey Please PM me and leave a number I will call you as soon as I get it.
  4. Like he said, donor cars are cheap especially if you look around. My 2000 Trans Am LS1/T56 clearly had been in a driver's side front impact but everything was repaired. I got the car for $3900 and drove it >500 miles from Reno NV to Ventura CA no problems. I asked around junk yards, ebay, and craigslist, and unless it was on craigslist w/ an automatic (which I would never do), I spent less for the whole car then I would have just for the motor/trans. I found the donor on Craigslist, I literally searched every area listing in CA with searches from LS1, LS2, GTO, Firebird, Camarro... I had found a GTO w/ LS2/T56 for $5k but it wasn't drivable plus the guy sold it over the hour I was thinking about it. Lesson learned, good deals go fast.
  5. I live in Ventura and am keeping my '75 280Z smog legal with a 2000 Trans Am LS1. Basically if you do not have the entire donor car (which I have) you will have a shitty time trying to get all of the little parts you need. There is a referee station in Oxnard, which when I have some time am going to get my laundry list of things I will need to keep on the Z from the Trans Am. When I get it I will post it up here.
  6. I currently have a stock LS1 ~300 ftlbs in my 75' 280Z with a longnose R200 dif. If I do increase the power it won't be above 400 ftlbs. Is it safe to use the NISMO CLSD or is there a compelling reason to go with a Quaife? $1000 vs $1500. From reading through everything it feels like it is a crap shoot if I get the good CLSD w/o the spacers or not. Someone that has experience with the CLSD help me please!
  7. Alright... All the electrical connections and been cleaned, electrical greased, and reseated. No change. I replaced all of the vacuum lines, none of them needed it, but I did it anyways. /. side note ./ Something odd, my anti-stall pot doesn't have a vacuum line going to it and I havn't been able to find out where it is actually suppose to get it. Still no change. I don't have a fuel pressure gauge so can't check that. I have a hard time believing that to be the problem since my problem is a transient cold start problem. Fuel filter was replaced, it did need it. Still no change. I will check the vacuum at idle but the rest that was mentioned I either can't or do not have time to do. In any case those would not lead to an intermittent problem. I believe this problem comes from the cold start system; cold start injector, thermotime switch... something along those lines. I just don't know how to test the system or where to start with it. Please keep in mind the problem lasts for <1 minute.
  8. Sorry about that, L28. It is a 1975 280Z 4 speed manual CA car.
  9. When I bought the car it ran great, but the shortly there after the thermostat went out. I replaced the housing, thermostat, and thermo gauge sender since it was stuck in the old housing. Since then it wouldn't start. I replaced the plugs and wires since one of the wires was grounding and finally got it to start. Since then it runs great... once it warms up. Once I get the beast to start it has intake backfires between 1.5K - 2K rpms and will idle then die at 600 rpms if I let off the gas. After ~20 seconds it will idle fine at 800 rpms but will still sputter at around 2K rpms until the temp comes up. I basically have to give it a bunch of gas to get it started and then maintain >2.5K rpms for those ~20 seconds. I have read around that it is probably a problem with the thermotime switch or the cold start fuel injector. Can someone give me some ideas of how to track this problem down.
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