Jump to content
HybridZ

Turbo6inKY

Members
  • Posts

    22
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Turbo6inKY

  1. Yes, you'll have it all except the crossmember (you will need to modify the one from your 240) and you may or may not need to change the length of the driveshaft. I just put a T-5 in mine. It was a very smooth swap, and I didn't even have a donor car, I just had the transmission. I had to get a new driveshaft made and modify the crossmember, adjust the hole in the tunnel for the shifter with some tin snips, and that was it. It went right in. Sounds like a great find. Take the transmission and related parts and part out the rest of the car here or on Ebay and you should make money on this swap! Good luck!
  2. I attempted MAPdot for about fifteen minutes one day, and went right back to TPSdot. It was doing what yours is doing. It's just erratic. It probably didn't help that I had big ignition problems that were causing misfires and a wild vacuum signal.
  3. Shouldn't there be an attachment here? Can't find a scan of this spec sheet anywhere. If somebody has one, post it back up!
  4. Isky makes Nissan Motorsport's cams (L7, L9, etc), and will do custom grinds as well as regrind a cam you send them. Buying the cam directly from Isky is $60 cheaper for the exact same cam as buying through Courtesy, too. I had an MSA/Schneider. Dowel pin that locates the cam gear came loose and I crushed all twelve valves. The following lack of any kind of attention from MSA regarding the issue left a rather bad taste in my mouth. There's an Erson cam for sale on Summit for the L6, don't buy it. The lift is so large the lobes are bigger than the bearing journals. It's literally impossible to install.
  5. Depends on what you pull it out of. A FWD Cadillac, no, but there are third party kits available to hook them up to several popular transmissions. The RWD Caddy's have a revised block to mate with whatever transmissions they offer. If you get one from a rear wheel drive Cadillac, just get the transmission too. Your life will be much easier.
  6. I'm sure you could piece a "kit" together with a GM gasket kit and new bearings, but your problem is going to be with ring seal. It is nearly impossible to get the cylinders to be round again, your new rings won't seat in the worn egg-shaped holes in your block, and it'll run like crap. As I said, they are good engines, but you should get a running lower mileage one, and don't rebuild it. Drop it in, run it until it dies, then toss it and get another. They are a one-time use powerplant. Once they wear out, they're done.
  7. The mileage is a bit high, I'd pass if I were you. The Northstar is a wonderful engine, but they aren't rebuildable. There isn't enough iron in the cylinder sleeves to bore the cylinder holes enough to make them round again, and you can't replace the sleeves easily. Look for something with less than a 100K on the clock.
  8. Awesome. Found Roostmonkey's thread where he's selling the RT mounts and PM'd him. I'll just slide the strap behind the bolts until I get that mount in.
  9. Reviving, seems like the best place for this question. I've just set my differential back using a '72 curved mustache bar and the '72 curved rear lower control arm (LCA) crossmember. I flipped the front mount around 180 degrees, and it all bolted up... except for the strap that goes over the differential to keep the nose from popping up and tearing the bottom mount. It now passes directly over the nuts that secure the front diff mount, and is not long enough to make it over to the other side. What is the solution for that strap? There's no obvious way to unbolt the mounts and shift them backwards. Did those of you who have already done this swap just run without the strap? Solid front diff mount?
  10. I do believe GM cast them a different case with a bellhousing pattern for the Jag block. They're rare. Did the same thing for Rolls Royce, too. Transmissions on those generations of cars were the only reliable part IN the cars, too.
  11. What does "very loud" have to do with "definately set up for drift?" A Detroit Locker is loud. Are those set up for drift, too?
  12. I just contacted Precision Gear (sells the Power Brute line) directly. They told me they had none in stock, but could still get them for the early R180s. They then referred me to Reider Racing to actually place an order. The gentleman at Reider had no information that indicated to him he'd not be able to get the part, and I placed an order. Precision told me there'd be at most a 90 day lead on the part. So, I'll subscribe to this thread and update when I hear more back.
  13. Yes, it was late, I screwed up my acronym. Basically metric pipe thread. All those bypass nipples in the thermostat housing are British Standard Pipe Thread (BSPT). My local hardware store stocks a small assortment of BSPT pipe plugs, so I literally unscrewed the nipple from the housing and screwed the pipe plug in (yes, I used teflon tape). The other end of the bypass on the passenger side of the block, where the splitter runs to the heater core and around the block to the back of the intake manifold, I have blocked off with a rubber plug until I get around to putting a straight step-down and eliminate the T completely.
  14. Those caps work for awhile, but the rubber breaks down. They will eventually crack and leak or burst. The best way is to remove any nipples you aren't using and plug the holes with BPT pipe plugs.
  15. I'm putting 175 to the wheels with a 2.7L (2.8L block bored .040 over with a 2.4L crank) on a high compression E31 head with the larger N42 valves, and I'm running the same 40mm Mikuni carbs you have. Right now, it pulls all the way to the rev limiter, which I have set at 7100. The curve wasn't dropping off much there. I've left it at 7100 for longevity, but it would easily pull all the way to 8. You will have no trouble making your target amount of power with those carburetors.
  16. This post is an effort to spare others the confusion I endured trying to figure out how to get my Z's original tachometer working with my MSD 6AL. A cursory search of HybridZ uncovered similar confusion, these two threads are prime examples: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=77434 http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=77651 Most people seem to just dump the original tach, but mine was still working fine, so I saw no reason to toss it. New 5" tachometers are a hundred bucks. The tach adapter from Summit is less than fifty. Obviously, the tachometer signal on the MSD is something entirely different than the current triggered signal the OEM four-wire inductive loop thingy. The solution is an MSD Tach adapter. The confusion I ran into was which one to buy, and how to wire it, as the Z is just a tad different than the examples in MSD's diagrams, and all the people cheap enough to not just buy a compatible tach seem to be very poor at documenting how they get things to work. The tach adapter you need is the 8920. NOT the 8910. To wire it up: Find the two ends of the tach inductive loop over near the coil. One wire is green/white, the other is black/white. I advise you to use something to check continuity and make sure you have the correct two wires, as they really aren't two wires, they're opposite ends of the SAME wire. Remove the 8920 tach adapter from the package. Throw away the instruction sheet. Neither diagram applies to the Z. It has four wires coming out of it: Black - ground white - trigger Red - option1 violet - option2 Now, to get the tach working: 1. Take the black/white wire near the coil, and hook it up to an ignition switched 12V (hot when key is on). 2. Run the RED wire from the tach adapter and connect it to the green/white wire. 3. The white wire from the adapter goes to the MSD's tach output. 4. The black wire goes to ground. That's it. That's all there is to it.
  17. I just sent that guy an email. His site only has the 14x7s in silver... but the price is killer. $325 for the set.
  18. I just nabbed a set of Miata seats, and they bolt locations on the bottom of the seats aren't even remotely close to the bolts on the Z's rails. Did you have to drill new holes in the rails?
  19. What did you use to stick the dash cap on? The RTV Adhesive supplied by VictoriaBritish with my dash cover doesn't stick to anything, at all. Vinyl contact cement (like they use for vinyl tops on cars) doesn't stick either. What did everybody else use?
  20. Anybody know the Nissan part number for the traverse link hinge pin (spindle pin)? I searched, and you all have 24 threads on how to remove it, but nobody tells you what part number you need to get from Nissan if you screw up. Thanks in advance!
  21. Okay, search isn't working, so please don't flame me if this has already been asked a bazillion times... I've just got my 1970 240Z back on the road, except the transmission hates life when the car is sitting still. Now, I've replaced the slave cylinder, and bled the clutchsystem. I ran an entire bottle of fluid through it, I didn't see anymore bubbles coming out... However, when the car is sitting still and running, with the clutch pushed to the floor, it hates going into any gear. Reverse is the easiest to get into, with a hard jerk. Second works about 75% of the time, with a hard jerk. First is hardly ever available. When the car is not running, I can row through the gears like nobody's business. Now for the fun stuff. I do not think the clutch is dragging. I did a ghetto clutch drag test. Got the car on a level spot, pushed the clutch in, and held the revs up for about 30 seconds. The car didn't move. The clutch pedal assembly has a terrible amount of slop. The linkage is worn and it the pedal moves about 2 inches before it actually starts to act on the master cylinder. I have not separated the transmission from the the engine to actually look at the clutch yet. So, I guess my question is, should I try bleeding the clutch again, adjusting the little rod that comes out of the slave cylinder some more, fix the sloppy linkage, or is it time to drop the transmission and find out if the synchros are shredded? I have changed the fluid. No obvious metal shavings, old fluid was clean. Thanks folks!
×
×
  • Create New...