LanceVance

1x Hoodie, Medium, Heather Gray, 79925.

All that is currently required for registration is the safety inspection and even that will be getting phased out next year. I've got straight through setup on my Z and a cat delete + cutout on my STi. Ive never had any issues getting them inspected. Z will eventually be getting an L28ET with a cutout shooting through the fender. I doubt I'll have issues even with that.

I might have one for you. I gave it to a friend who was planning an r200 conversion, but he decided to use a Subaru R180. I'll see if he has any plans for it. It has been modified with an outlet for an oil cooler and two bungs for sensors (gauge and pump switch). Not sure if this is overkill for your application.

I don't recall which year/generation I bought mine from. When in doubt I usually just go for the newest possible option (98' S14 in thus case), and keep the receipt...

Do you do your own anodizing? I've been trying to find an affordable option for a few small billet parts I own, but so far nobody wants to deal with small orders... Plate looks good by the way!

The 240sx TPS does fit the TWM shaft, but the two bolts/screws are placed closer than the standard switch. Plenty of meat to drill and tap.

PM sent.

This is the shop that makes it, provides a little more information, but no direct order option: http://keatingmachine.com/products/entry/he351-exhaust-flange-to-3.51/v-band-flanges-turbo-flanges-adapters-accesories Alternatively, I've got a stock cast elbow that may work for you (not sure if the downpipe you bought had the oddball dodge v band clamp?) and will sell it cheap.

This may be what you need: https://puredieselpower.com/dodge-products/he351-exhaust-flange-reducer.html#/product/14564

Prest fit.

Use the old bag as a template and buy a cheap impulse sealer. Should be a fairly straightforward process to re-create the factory bag. Hard part will be finding matching plastic, if you want it to be a match for the OEM.

Bump!

Goes straight to Summit Racing for me...

The is a Facebook Group called 'Skyline Parts Buy/Sell/Trade USA'. Might be worth joining and and posting there.

You should join the Facebook Group 'Skyline Parts Buy/Sell/Trade USA'. Plenty of RB parts/partouts on there.

No. Fan pulley is not the same size as the crank pulley, therefore it's rotation will not be 1:1 for drivetrain rotation. Not to mention belt slippage during startup and fan clutch initiation would throw everything off.

Bump

Bump

Looks like the window mechanism could be spaced back slightly to allow for a more flush fitment and clearance with uncut aftermarket door cards...

Cranks generally go anywhere between $500-800 in used/unknown condition, freshly pulled from the block. Ones that have been checked or worked over by a competent machine shop, with supporting paperwork demand more depending on the extent of work done. There are custom cranks coming to market that have put a cap on the price of tired LD cranks. The glow plugs and fuel system seem to always be in demand by LD enthusiasts, though I can't begin to accurately give prices. NissanDiesel forums will be your best resource there. Other parts, including the intake manifold and oil cooler setup have occasionally been sought by people looking to do something out of the ordinary... Generally speaking these stay around the $100 mark unless they are in especially good condition. I'm looking for a extended capacity rear sump oil pan from the industrial variant (or Cedric i believe). The few I've found are also around the $100 mark. I believe someone was looking for a block a while back...

Covering the heat shield on the side facing the source of heat might be more effective, albeit with less bling factor. I've done the heat shield on the turbo manifold, and plan to do the fuel rail as well.

Not needing a crank, but I think the Cedric may have the oil pan I'm after... If you find a buyer for the cranks, then perhaps we could work out shipping them together?

I know many government fleet vehicle have a secondary hood catch, consisting of a short strap with a snap hook near the primary latch, and an eye bolt attached to the hood. Should the main latch let go, or not be fully engaged the hood can only go up around 6" inches... I'll have to pay attention the next time I have a chance to examine one, might be a good safety investment!

Drain it, do as much rust conversion as you can and throw some desiccant packets around for good measure. Put a car cover on to keep the dust off, which will hold moisture. If you know of any bad rot cut it out now and repair it later. Little rust converter and primer and you've stopped the big stuff... With the prices going up I'd hate to sell today just to get something much worse for the same price tomorrow.

http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/103235-diy-fiberglass-brake-ducts/ http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/106780-lets-see-those-brake-ducts/