74Adam

Corey, I used to have a 260 that had BOTH the mechanical fuel pump and the electrical pump. I had similar symptoms to what you are describing and it turns out that there is a small cylindrical screen inside the electric fuel pump. If you have this I would strongly suggest checking it. Even if it isn't the issue it's a good thing to check on occasion.

So I replaced the OEM fuel pump on the 78 and I noticed when I unscrewed the brass nuts that connect the ring terminals of the wiring to the pump that some sort of rubberized type of material was partially covering the nuts. Of course in the process of the removing the nuts almost all of that rubber material crumbled off. So I was just wondering if there is supposed to be anything covering that connection? I mean, it is completely exposed on the underside of the car so it seems like there should be something providing some protection from the elements. I don't know why Nissan didn't just use an electrical plug connection, but I digress. thanks

Ok, that's good to know about the bracket. Yeah, I've got the rear panel off as well as the panel on the front side of the quarter panel since it overlaps it. Had to take out the shock tower cap (it's a 78) and the seatbelt mechanism as well. Thanks guys.

Title pretty much says it all. Specifically, the passenger side. I've removed everything that is "in the way" but that damn hatch strut mount is really making this difficult. Do you have to get the carpet up as well? I'm thinking it may be necessary but I wanted to ask first before I go any further. thanks

Well, the title says it all. I live in the Lakewood/lower Greenville neighborhood so I would like something close by. I'm not driving to west Ft Worth, in other words. I know there are some shops along Garland road and one of them might do but I was hoping someone on here might have personal experience with a place that still does actual body work. I can't imagine rolling up to Herbs or Service King. The techs probably wouldn't know what to do if they had to break out a block sander thanks

I'll check tomorrow when I get home from work but it seems like when the O2 sensor comes on line the AFR is at about 12. I realize that is rich but I didn't figure it was out of line since my understanding is that even at operating temperature the AFR is supposed to be a bit on the rich side. I figured with the cold temp enrichments that low 12's was reasonable. My AFR at operating temp is about 13.5, by the way. It sounds like your hunch is that I'm a bit rich and you may be right. I'll try leaning out the cranking and afterstart parameters a bit.

This is a 78 with a 3.0 N/A stroker, 9.7:1 CR and a mild cam. Running MS2, fuel only, with OEM N/A injectors; OEM pump/filter/pressure regulator and the stock throttle body that I modified to be able to use the 240SX TPS. I am also using the OEM AAR for cold start fast idle. So, a pretty simple setup. Anyway, the car runs well, I can drive it on the street and it pulls strong so I feel pretty good about the VE table. I just can't quite nail the cold starting. Once the temperature starts getting below 50 or so it can take a couple of cranks to stay started. If it gets down to 30 it can take three or four times. It will kick to life and almost immediately die. Then after the second, third or fourth time it will catch and the AAR will bring the idle up to 1600 and after a few minutes settle back down to 900, running smooth the whole time. I just wanted to list my basic settings and see what you guys think. required fuel - 18.6 (183 c.i. engine with 180 cc/min injectors) cranking settings: priming pw - 2.0 -40 degree pw - 16.0 160 degree pw - 4.0 flood clear threshold - 70.0 cranking rpm - 300 afterstart enrichment: additive enrichment - 60 ignition cycles - 250 warmup enrichment: (degrees - enrichment) 00.0 - 200 20.0 - 182 40.0 - 165 60.0 - 150 80.0 - 138 110 - 123 130 - 114 155 - 106 165 - 100 I also have a small enrichment for intake air temp. It's about 12% at zero degrees and tapers linearly to nothing at 75 degrees. Anyway, thanks in advance for your help

Thanks John, I knew there was a product like that I just didn't know what to call it. I kept searching for removable putty.

This is in regards to a 78 model and I am referring to the hole that is under the washer tank and clutch master cylinder. I have a car that someone else installed a megasquirt but they just ran the wires, O2 sensor cable and MAP line through that hole without any effort whatsoever to seal it. MSA sells a reproduction grommet but of course I would have to disconnect all the wires and re-run them through the hole. I live in an apartment complex so I don't like to work on anything that is too involved so would rather not do that at this time. So I'm just wondering what people on here have done to address this? thanks

No kidding? Well if it was standard on my 78 someone took it off. Interesting.

Oh, sorry. In the sixth picture in your post immediately previous to mine there is a thin metal plate between the exhaust and transmission tunnel. I'm just curious if that is something "unique" or maybe something you plan on producing for sale? Everyone knows the Z-cars transmit a lot of heat through the tunnel and that looks like one of the best solutions I have seen. thanks, and I love your product. very nice

Sean, did you fabricate that shield yourself?

See, that's what I was assuming would happen which is why I wasn't worried about not getting the TPS mounted EXACTLY on the same rotational position on the throttle shaft of the Z TB relative to the SX TB. But, at least for me, it didn't turn out to be so simple. That's ok, now I know how to use a multi-meter...lol. Listen, I'll do a short write up when I have a little time. What I cobbled together isn't "easy on the eyes" but it works.

Oh, I figured I was the only weirdo that still wanted to use the stock throttle body with megasquirt. Or, do you just mean the measurement procedure?

I figured out what the problem was.......ME! And really, I'm not that surprised :-/ Ok, I didn't realize that when you have unbolted a TPS from the throttle body that you have to actually measure the voltage on the wires and get the closed value between 0.45 and 0.50 volts to get it working when you reinstall it. It just thought megasquirt took a reading at two points and that was it. So, I wasn't even in the ballpark as far as adjustments. I got on youtube and found a video of someone doing this calibration and realized that was the problem. So, I went to Oreilly and got a multi-meter this morning and figured it out just now. Anyway, sorry for being stupid and I appreciate the help

No, it's not that I don't understand the calibration procedure, I've calibrated the TPS for the 240SX. All I meant by "drilling holes" is when you use the mounting plate of the original 280 TPS you have to drill new holes because the mounting ears are spaced differently between the two. Fortunately, the spacing of the 240SX TPS is smaller therefore there is actually enough room on the 280 plate to mount the TPS from the 240. Anyway, what's happening is that I can set the closed and open values but when I start the car the TPS value doesn't stay on zero at idle. It "bounces", not much, maybe between zero and six or seven. Of course, this triggers the accel enrichment which obviously isn't going to work. And the throttle blade is completely closed at idle - air is only coming in through the bleed screw. Sorry, I should have been more clear in my original post.

Yes, it's a megasquirt setup.

Has anyone done this and then successfully calibrated the TPS? I used the mounting plate from the 280 TPS to mount the 240 TPS. The "D" in the shaft is rotated differently so you have to take that into consideration when you drill the holes, which I did but even with the available adjustment I can not get the TPS calibrated and I'm wondering if I have overlooked something really stupid. BTW, the 240SX TB has been on the car and runs so the TPS itself is fine and, yes, if I can't get this figured out I can just put it back on so this isn't critical. Using the stock throttle body is just a preference thing. thanks

Title pretty much says it all. I have a 78 and I need some of the linkage pieces. I already have the piece on the manifold that spans the two towers and I have the gas pedal and attached rod. So, I need the "j-hook" piece, the two bell cranks on the firewall and the linkage between them. Does anyone know if the pieces I still need would work if they are from a ZX? thanks

Yeah, I had a 260 years ago and I don't remember it being as cramped but I don't know about the earlier 280's.

Stravi, what did you use to grab the clip? It's so tight to get your hand around the guide bar for the window. Small needle nose pliers?

Quick question: can the lock cylinders be removed without taking out the glass? I ask because the FSM seems to indicate that you have to. Oh, this is a 78 model, BTW. thanks

I saw an S30 once that had the OEM 280ZX mirrors on. They had them painted to match the body and I thought it looked really nice. Just an idea as I would expect them to be a bit more sturdy and not vibrate as much.