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jdmjunkies.ch last won the day on October 25 2017

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  1. Not even sure yet if i will end up with solex / Mikuni Triple carbs but, when i was ordering some parts from Japan and saw this set of Manuals for 10 bucks i just couldn't resist. It's a set of three Manuals / parts catalogue copies in high quality by Mikuni Kogyo corp and Tokiwa (Mikuni / Solex agent in Japan). This one even features a nice picture of the S20 Engine. Now also figoured out the same seller sells new sets with an additional Manual... Still have to read through it though. quite a bit busy atm and can't find time to study all this stuff thoroughly.
  2. Facebook groups can suck. While there are always guys beeing A**holes on the internet, sometimes you really run into nice people that help you with your needs and do that happily as well! Recently i asked around if someone had a RH rear quarter panel in usable shape for sale, so my bodyshop doesn't have to make one from scratch (which is a lot more expensive over here). And a guy called Crow Aries immediately was in. It took a while to get all sorted out, but he even was kind enough to remove the old paint before shipping (didn't even ask for this!). Thank you so much sir! This is the car it was removed from: After some blasting and cleaning: Needs some minor work but still way better than getting this whole panel made from scratch. With this the RH-side of the car's body should be completed soon Oh and he was also kind enough to throw in a hood rod in the package since it appears that i accidentally sold the one i had.. Thanks again sir. Appreciate to deal with you!
  3. You just have to love the days, when this is in your mailbox (or next to it): But let's start in chronological order. On saturday i decided it's time to get rid of the old paint (Part two) of the lately acquired chin spoiler. Since the weak paint stripper (stronger ones are forbidden now in Switzerland). didn't do anything i got out my CSD Disks and that worked pretty well.. Before: And about an hour later: Yesterday the first package then showed up at the door. A set of Dixcel front disks for the OEM Brakes (for use with the MK63 solid type calipers). I decided to go for the optional black painted center-hubs, just for the looks and to prevent the area from surface rust, which is quite common there... And today some more stuff showed up at my door. Pitworks oil filter (mainly bought it because it was cheap and fitted in the same box for free..) The lately released Hayashi oil filler cap. in an awesome packing that only the japanese can do Set of genuine JAF Emblems (not sure if i will put them on the car, but i liked it). will post some details about this in another post... Mspeed firewall rubber grommet Well and a little blingy Z-keychain (From mspeed), because i didn't have anything to put my keys on and it fitted in the package for free.. Set of NOS brake pads. not interested in the pads themselves, but needed the metal-shims, which i messed up from my original set... Then some reading stuff. Japanese Z-story book. looks promising but have to study it first: Japense (later version) Z432-R & 240Z Race & Rallye preparation manual... has lots of technical information about how to prepare the car and some additional information. Nostalgic Hero S30Z only book. Seems to have some interesting cars and information inside as well... Oh and then a beautiful set of old used but restoreable Enkei mag wheels... Unfortunately the Shirt and Wheels are not for me or my project. I just helped a friend get them here. but because they're nice i thought i'd share the pictures anyway
  4. That's exactly what i wanted to say. I think the "series" thing just confuses a lot of people and it's easier to rely on the parts manuals for individual changes for each part based on the serial number. There was never an official "facelift" kind of model-change / cut thing, but many people believe so, due to the fact everybody is talking about "series 1" and "series 2", etc cars. Still many people believe that only "series one" cars hard vertical lines. Don't want to blame anyone here for this. just wanted to explain, because a lot of people still don't understand what it's about. especially young people here in europe...
  5. Time for another update. I lately stumbled on the Nissan / Datsun USA Technical service bulletin about the change of the hatch window rear defroster lines from Vertical to horizontal: Since i had been wondering why my cars (which were built close together) came with two different types of windows, which i figoured out lately, it cought my interest and i started to look closer. Car 1. SNR: HLS30-59660 came with ld horizontal lines. Registered in March 1972 Car 2. SNR: HLS30-56801 came with Vertical lines.Registered in May 1972 Strange enough, the SNR of my (European spec) cars are one Digit shorter than the ones mentioned in (American) Service bulletin. Both my cars were built in late 1971, but i assume the date in the Service bulletin is not the production date of change, but the release date of the document. Given the lead time of the cars from production to first registration in switzerland, and the lead time from Production change to the release of the Service bulletin. i guess my two cars, built close together just happend to be around the change. Also it is a prove that there is nothing like a "Series 1" car mentioned often. My "older" car doesn't have the vented hatch / side emblems, but it still came with "old" type window. Service bulletin 231 (1971 introduction of the Datsun 280Z, America) also mentions a 6-digit VIN (HLS30-6digits). So i guess we just got a different vin-Block for european cars? I checked both my stamped serials as well as the VIN-plate. Both my cars only have HLS30-5digits Oh and then got some interesting read from the UK. Race & Rallye magazine Jan. 1993 It features 15 Pages intresting background information about the Works 240Z rallye cars. Including a variety of side-stories around them. Still have to read through it, but it seems very promising
  6. Time for a little more knowledge today After i posted pictures from my T/C rod bushings in various forum-threads, people replied that i should swap to rubber in the back. After discussing a few topics i figoured out that original rubber bushings are still available new from Nissan and ordered a set, which i was able to pick up today: The problem: According to many people, the T/C rod tends to brake at the yellow area, when PU-bushings are used both in front and rear of the Frame-rail mount. This due to much counterstrength whith the hard PU-bushings. For sciences' sake i decided to compare both setups with an original NOS 240Z frame rail i have in my shop. Top: Front PU / rear Rubber Bottom: Front PU / rear PU 1st: Both PU. Fits perfect, but it's very stiff, both compression and angle-movement wise. Second: Front PU / rear rubber. You still have the advantage of PU-front (less rearwards movement during compression, red arrow), while having more freedom of angle-movement (yellow arrow) and therefore minimized the chance that the T/C rod will brake. So thanks all for the inputs and advice and i'll definitely stick with the PU / Rubber combination for best performance and with least failure rate
  7. A while ago i discovered some NOS parts on a german Sales ad website and contact the seller. few days later i got some NOS parts in my mailbox A 5-speed transmission clutch fork incl the retainer spring: two drum-brake slave cylinders (keen-eyed readers might note that i got two left-sided items) And a set of drum-brake hardware: More parts are on the way from japan currenty. and while waiting, i decided to strip the various layers of old paint from the Euro-chin spoiler with the simple use of some pressurized air and a spatula. before... at least five layers of different primers and paint: and here's the result. yeah, still two layers to go, but this one is tuff. even the paint stripper didn't work on this. wonder what it is.. probably have to sand it down by hand.. no hurry though, at least i don't have old paint peeling off from it and messing the storage space now anymore... Oh, and almost forgot i had all the parts for the doglegs ready since a while but never assembled them... So did that today, freshly powdercoated doglegs, zinc plated hardware and new Polyurethane bushings. next to a pair of old unrestored doglegs
  8. This is another little project that has been under work for a while and is finally completed A while ago i wanted to re-assemble the transmission crossmember with the new Energy suspension polyurethane bushings. They're stated to fit all 240Z years on their website: However, when i tried to install it, it didn't fit at all... The metal tube was too long to fit inside the outer mounting bracket and had a wrong diameter, the bushings had a completely wrong shape too and didn't fit anywhere.... It was only then i figoured out there are at least three different types of transmission crossmembers and they do not fit the type i got i got: I tried to find a supplier, but they weren't available. But when i asked Jakub Nurzaj from DPAN Europe he immediately told me that he could make a set for me... So i took some measures and we double checked a few things, before the first series went into production. Yesterday i was finally able to pick them up at the postal office and the first look was promising. Here's a comparison between energy bushings (left) and Jakub's bushings (right) the difference is small but i can assure you the ones to the left don't fit at all... So today i was finally able to install them (use some bushing grease!) Fitment is spot on and tight. perfect! I cannot thank Jakub enough for the work he put into this and i'm happy i could support him. The bushings are now available from Jakub Nurzaj from the DPAN Europe facebook page. Contact him if you need these. Here's how the crossmember looked before restauration: And here's the completed, freshly powdercoated transmission crossmember with freshly zinc plated bolts and the NISMO / Kameari Transmission mount. Looking cood. Another Puzzle-piece complete. Thanks again to Jakub for the awesome work!
  9. Yeah ich heard both now. many People confirm they had the same Problems, w hile many confirm they never had Problems. I guess there was a bad Batch or maybe there was a difference on the cars depending on the year or something? Don't know. all i can say is there is an obvious difference between the two floorpans and if you measure the longitudinal bead rolls in the middle have a different Position. Strange Yeah let's say the design was a bit "fragile" i think it would be possible to redo it whit those appliable heating threads you can buy, but not sure if it's worth the effort and how it Ends up. since i drive the car in nice weather only anyway i'm not sure yet which route to go. of course it would be nice to have a working Defroster
  10. Sometimes you find the coolest things when you don't even search for them. I always thought the "euro" front lip / chin spoiler was cool but it's somehow rare these days to find one and i thought i go the route with the xenon front bumper. However when i was searching for some other parts i accidently stumbled upon a pretty rough looking but still salvageable OEM front spoiler lip. I contacted a few people to confirm it's the real deal and then made the payment. few days later and i could pick it up at the postal office today: One of the mounting brackets is missing (broken off) and another one seems to have been replaced with a custom made piece over the years. but otherwise it's in quite good shape, as long as the old paint gets removed. It's made from Urethane rubber so pretty soft and you can bend it like you want
  11. I got a request for a 240Z Rear window for sale, so i thought it might be a good reason to get my small power supply and Multimeter out and check them. Unfortunately i didn't even need my tools. It was already clear by visually checking them that both window defrosters are toast, even if the glass was OK on both. The resistive threads have oxidated and vanished in large areas: It even seems like one of them had some kind of burn at one point: You can't really see it bot some of the threads are almost gone totally and there's only some leftovers from the original glue. Really wonder how that could happen. but it seems to be a common problem. One of them even had one of the bigger threads loose. I know it's all repairable with stock-on thread wires, but not sure yet how nice i can do it and if it's worth the effort. Either i need a new glass or have it repaired by a pro. Strange enough i figoured out i have both a vertical and a horizontal wired hatch glass. even if both my cars were built in late 1971. so either they were used longer than mentioned everywere, or it has ben swapped at one point in the past. strange enough the one with the vertical lines (the earlier version)is in way better condition with only one small area damaged and the rest still quite solid...
  12. 1) Regarding the Floorpans: I don't want to offend anyone, but when i asked around how the fitment was at other People, most told me that the longitudial bump in the middle was not lined up properly with the Frame rail below. Also my bodyshop guy took measurements and confirmed that the Position was different in the ones from zeddfindings and the ones from hungary. Maybe zeddfindings had a bad Batch or so? strange. otherwise they look pretty good if you ask me. 2) Im not sure if all the floorpans had the clearance in the longitudinal bead roll, but i double checked with my car when i was at the bodyshop and my 1972 Z definitely had it (on the Driver side only!). the floorpan for the passenger side doesn't have it, since the seateail-mount has a Little clearance for the bead roll on t hat side. thought it was strange. The floorpans from hungary were told to be for "early" models, so maybe they changed the design at one Point? All i know is they fit perfectly and are exactly the shape which i had from factory in all Areas and that's whats important, right?
  13. One common rusty area of most S30 Z's are the floors. The only supplier of floor pans i know is from zeddfindings (http://www.datsunzparts.com/ ). The Problem is. they look good at first sight, but upon closer inspection they don't fit really well. The main Problem beeing the longitudial Bump in the the middle which should be above the frame-rail isn't aligned proper. So basicall you have to cut it up and re-do most of the work. That's what the bodyshop told me when i brought them my floorpans for repair. And 240Z restorers told me the same. so it wasn't just my part which was bad. So a while ago i looked for another solution and came a cross datsun Club Hungary. They restore a few cars a year and make their own floorpans. while not officially for sale in a shop or so, they offered me one set when i asked them. Not cheap, but worth the Money. and they appear to be mostly hand-made too. The reason i trusted them to make good Quality stuff is mainly because they make their floorpans for their own concours-Level restaurations useage and not just for selling them to People with no clue... Here's a Little comparison. First difference you will immediately note is the size difference. with the Hungarian floorpans there is some spare metal to Play with. Another big difference is the "dent" on the Driver side seatrail which is there originally in early z-cars, but non-existant in the american floorpans from Zeddfindings. last but most important: The longitudial "dent" is perfectly aligned with the Frame rail and no additional cutting-up and welding needed aside from the usual fitment work... I really hope with the increasing Prices of the Z that manufacturers start to build Quality sheet metal stuff. the parts available currently are sadly of terrible fitment and Quality...
  14. I'll write a huge Post about the MK63 brakes soon (just waiting for some details), but one thing i can tell already is that they're usually installed without the backing plate. The brakes fit perfectly with the OEM Brakes (see below): But don't fit with the bigger MK63 brakes anymore, due to their bigger size. (see below) Also one of my backing plate was a bit denty.... So i decided to bring 'em to the bodyshop and have them modified to fit and straightened: Also made sure he puts back the "lip" that was there originally. He told me the lip is there in case of someone gets into the disk so it's a bit of a protection and safety thing... This is the result. Honestly i was hoping for a bit tighter fitment, but since you won't see it once the disk is installed it doesn't matter anyway. just my OCD calling here Next i will have it sandblasted and powdercoated.