Eric2015

Damn that sucks. What color? The red looked pretty nice, but then again S30's look good in any color haha. I'm probably going to be pulling the LT1 and T56 out of my wrecked Camaro to put in my Datsun. My L28ET and I don't get along very well haha

Did you ever get this beast finished??

How's the building going?

Lol don't get so butt hurt NewZed. I read it. It that section it doesn't clarify if it's a dry or wet sensor. And then if you refer to EF&EC-88 you dip the sensor in water to test it's resistance. So beings the you tested it in water I assumed it read coolant temp. Thanks SleeperZ, that was all I needed to know.

Ok according to the FSM the CHTS does read coolant temp. So the next question is why don't I have coolant at the CHTS? Even if the water pump was shot there should still be coolant in the engine....? Any ideas?

Sorry to revive an old thread but I have a question. Does the CHTS measure coolant temp? I figured it should but I pulled mine and no coolant came out? So does it just measure air temp in the head? Or should there be coolant there? Also, on the thermostat housing there's two sensors. One's for gauge and one is the Engine Coolant Temperature correct?

So I checked the timing and it should be good enough to start. Then I checked the injectors. I'm not getting any power to the injectors. What could be causing this?

I'm not sure how long the engine has been sitting. The fuel is fairly fresh though. Only a couple of months old from when it had the original NA 2.8. I tried starting it with starter fluid and still nothing. Thanks for the link! I'll do some reading and try to get to know the L28ET better

I tested spark at the coil and at the plug. I tested the spark again today and I'm pretty sure its getting a strong enough spark to ignite. I'll try starting fluid and if that doesn't work I'll check the timing

Or maybe the timing is off.... I should check that

Good news, I've made progress. I did find the exact yellow/white wire I needed. It was very obvious once you described it haha. So I threw the distributor back together. I then tested the my computer power wire and was losing power when cranking. So I switched it to a different spot and have power while cranking now. I then disconnected the the blue wire from the coil. The HEI is wired in correctly. The zip tie in the picture is just the hold it in place. It's grounded through the bolt holes. The coil also has power. After all of this, I finally got spark. But the car still won't start. The spark doesn't seem like its very strong. I test the spark using the screw driver method. On most vehicles I test it's a strong and fast spark. Like spark spark spark spark really fast. That was not the case with this. It was more like spark....spark....spark....spark. I'm not sure if that's just how it is on this engines or what. I also decided to check the fuel pressure in case maybe that was the issue. My fuel pressure gauge leaks a tiny bit so I can't get an exact reading. But the gauge was reading over 20psi. So after you consider the loss it has somewhere between 20 and 30psi. That's about what these pumps run right? So that's as far as I got for tonight. Any ideas now? Maybe something to do with the injectors?

Disconnected the Transistor Ign. Also tested the ECU output. No voltage on either of the yellow/white wires. I'm assuming I should go ahead and replace the CAS sensor?

I'm in the middle of swapping the L28ET into my Datsun 280Z. The computer does have power. I'm using a GM 4 Pin HEI. I have a diagram below showing how I have it wired up. There are two Yellow/White wires coming from the computer. One needs to go to the HEI. I've tried both and no spark either time. I'm using the stock coil from the original naturally aspirated 280Z engine. This shouldn't be a problem should it? Also on the passenger side of the cab, underneath the dash, is a box that reads: Transistor Ign. Is this part of the Ignition system? Hopefully you guys can point out something that I don't have wired up right. If not I might try replacing the CAS. Thanks