Enzo250gto

I picked my kit up here in Australia from someone that had purchased it for a Jensen Healey sports car. It came with new 2x HSR 45mm carbs, Adjoining throttle shaft, K&N air cleaners, choke cable adapter, Manifold adapters to bolt straight to the SU/Hitachi manifold and extra jets etc. The part are all new and unused. I paid $800.00AUD which is probably $1200.00AUD cheaper than if I had to try and buy from the USA supplier with the current exchange rate. I have had twin Hitachi/SU carbs, triple 40mm Dellortos, 390cfm Holley and Fitech 4 barrel EFI over the years on various engines but this looks neater, cleaner and less cluttered. I'm just looking for a reliable, spirited drive with reasonable economy. The feed back from customers at Vintage Performance seems positive. I know that Eiji at Datsun Spirit in Virginia has used 6x of the HSR carbs on his engines with great success. David.

Hello from Australia, I have just picked up the same Carbs that you have installed. they look great. Have you finalised the jet selection yet. I will install mine towards the later part of the year on the new engine that is being built. Any advise you have would be appreciated. Looking forward to any updates. Regards David. Australia.

I can recommend these as designed by Derek. I have one here in Australia and when the 280zx comes off the rotissorie next year it will be fitted. I also got the driveshaft made up to suit the car by Godzilla as well. Go for the CD00A as it is a more update gearbox. regards David.

Hi Mate, Check out Pro Tunerz in Ottawa Canada. They are making a Turbo manifold now. https://www.autoyas.com/CA/Ottawa/1681949728590008/ProTunerz Regards David

Hi, The wiring to the solenoid goes through the key switch wiring which is 40 years old. The connections become a problem over time not allowing full voltage to the starter solenoid. A starter relay should be wired in so the old wiring though the switch is only used to activate the relay. The relay kit is available on Ebay, Z car Source , Motorsport etc sites or just make your own. Wiring diagrams will be available on this site. Hope this helps Enzo

Hi, That's the hot air intake and attached from the exhaust manifold to the bottom of the air cleaner. It redirects hot air the prevent the carbs icing up in winter (cold climates). The correct air cleaner will have a sensor and valve device which will mix the air drawn into the carbs at a set temperature to stop icing up. Also keeps the emissions reduced and stops condensation build-up in the valve cover. Cheers David.

Looking good. Very impressive. Paint looks a million dollars.💰

Hi Lowrider, I will be looking for your results with the CB Performance Black Box. I got one sent downunder to Australia to use on a 240z. The original dizzy was stuffed so I found a good points Hitachi dizzy and locked it up internally and disconnected the broken vacuum diaphragm. The points were removed and replaced with a Hot Spark ignition module.(Similar to Pertronic). I have stalled on the project, so it will be a while before I can complete my setup. The price was good , and I liked the flexibility of the advance curve plus the use of vacuum advance all electronically. David.

Hi Guys, The ignition lock has pins. The door and hatch have wafers. Trying to replace pins and wafers on old locks is false economy. The main part of the cylinder wears over the years with the key sliding in and out. Even if you replace the pins and wafers to match your key, the lock will still have wear in it possibly allowing other keys to open the lock. You would be better off just buying a replacement group of keyed alike cylinders off ebay or your local Locksmith. I have replaced the pin cylinder in the ignition of my 1976 260z with a wafer cylinder to keep all of my locks keyed alike. I have seen keyed alike kits on ebay. I spent 30 years as a locksmith and trying to repair worn locks really is a waste of time and good money because they won't last. Hope this helps. David.

Hi Derek, I read a report years ago that having the mesh screens on a race car engine only allowed dust and rubber particules from the soft compound racing tyres (as they degrade)from close proximity racing to be sucked into the combustion chamber and from the intense heat turn sticky and collect behind rings etc. From memory, there were pictures showing the gummy residue (mixture of dust and rubber). It was suggested the filters should be used to stop the bore being scratched and the residue build-up behind the rings. If I can find the article, I will post it. They mesh has a macho tough look to it, but I wouldn't turn the key on my cars without adequate filters. Regards David.

Hi, Looking at you Adds as listed in the first post, to me it reads as Nissan parts. Maybe it's as simple as changing your add to read " will fit Nissan (whatever model)". or "suits Datsun". Just a thought. Wording of an add can change buyers perception. Hope you get it sorted. regards David.

Hi, Just a thought. If you are getting a spark at the plug and fuel is present, Check that the valve adjustment is correct. If the valves are not closing all the way you will have a miss on that cylinder. If the valve clearances are correct do a compression test in that cylinder to see if you have a bent valve that is not closing all the way. David

Hi Brent, Still haven't got around to firing mine up at the moment, but have some extra info for you. You have probably already onto this, but I will repeat it anyway for people not in the know. From FiTech: 1. The pressure regulator on the Fuel Command Centre (FCC) which the original instructions said to leave open on a normally aspirated engine is now recommended to connect to manifold pressure. This can be done at the Throttle Body or direct to the manifold. This lowers the fuel pressure when at idle and cruising conditions when high pressure is not required. 2. The PWM number is 75 which can be dropped to 40. This allows the computer to tune itself easier. Hope this helps. FiTech seems to be updating the system for easier use. Cheers David. (Enzo)

Hi Brent, Same here. Looked at rotating the throttle body but it was in the "too hard basket". It didn't line up easily with the Arizona Z manifold. Probably a bit of overkill but with the alloy plate and extra phenolic spacer, I should have maximum shielding for the IAC. Also the back set of throttles don't seem to open the full 90 degrees. There is something in the installation paperwork about not adjusting the linkages as they are set at the factory.

Hi Brent, I spoke to you recently on Auszcar about your installation. I have attached a picture of what I have done regarding the heat from the headers. I haven't included a picture of a thin stainless steel plate attached to the manifold bolts in the middle section where you have the excess heat wrapping but that is my first shield. Then is the alloy plate over the inlet manifold. Then a White Phenolic plate at 6mm which can be seen that goes back towards the valve cover. The throttle body is then placed on top. Gaskets are between the manifold and alloy plate/ phenolic plate/ throttle body. This allows a small air gap between plates. This should give maximum protection for the electrics on the back of the throttlebody from heat off the headers. Also the studs have been replaced with longer ones for the extra thickness. Regards David

Hi Mate, Check out the rubber diaphragm in the mechanical pump. If it has a small split it will still supply fuel at low rpms but get worse as you drive. As the split get bigger fuel starvation will get worse. Also check you oil and see if it smells of fuel. Regards David.

Opps!!! I stand corrected. Newzed is spot on. My brain wasn't switched on. ( I could say being from a land down under that I was looking at everything in reverse).LOL. I will delete my first confusing post. David.

Hi, First picture. Listen to NewZed, he is correct.

Interesting question. I recently installed an F54 block with a P90 head in my 260z. The engine had been rebuilt by the previous owner some years ago but had been stored. I wanted higher compression so I replaced the P90 with a refurbished N42 head. While the head was off I noted that the Flat-top P79 pistons were sitting above the deck but I didn't measure the height. (Looked to be only just above. I'm guessing 20thou). Felpro gasket installed. Once assembled the cylinder compression with some oil added to the dry cylinders was between 220-225 psi across the cylinders. Higher than I expected. Lucky in Australia we have 98 Ron fuel.

Hi Jamie, I misspelt the Business name (Mangoletsi) . If you go to the where to buy section all UK and worldwide distributors are listed. Have a talk to the guys at Jenvey and tell them your plans for the engine and get there recommendations. If I lived in the UK I would buy the Mangoletsi manifold and get the Jenvey boys to set up the throttle bodies and linkages for me. I would definitely go with the Heritage series so I could have the old school carby look with EFI technology. I have a 2.9 litre L28 with all Datsun Spirit and Kameari components waiting to be assembled when the head is completed and this is the way I will be going for that engine. For simplicity on my existing engine which is a L28 with flattop pistons and a N42 head with 72 degree camshaft I have an Arizona Z 4 barrel manifold and FiTech throttle body with The FiTech fuel command centre suppling the fuel. Talk to Datsun people and get a firm idea of the direction you want to go with the engine and car and work out your budget before making any major purchases. Good luck David.

Hi Jamie, Since you are already in the UK check out Mangolestri for a Datsun manifold and Jenvey for Throttle bodies. If you want your car to look old school, look at Jenvey's Heritage injection setup. They have throttle bodies in specially cast cases that look like Weber DCOE carbs. You get the old school carb look, but all the internals are EFI. David

Hi Dan, Great work and looking good. You have a lot more patience than I have got. It's good to see another car with the rear side windows left in. It does give better vision and I think it suits the lines of the car. Call it an optical allusion, but I think it makes the car look longer and leaner than having the fibreglass covering the side window. I did mine back in 2004. Keep up the good work. Regards David

RIP John. A genuine nice guy and wealth of knowledge has passed to a better place. Our thoughts are with his family. David.

RebekahsZ is right about checking the tires first. I had fitted some 245/45/16 tires to my '76 260z on 16x8 BBS wheels and found that they tram tracked on every uneven section of the road. The tire shape was more of a sharp angle at the edges with a large footprint. On changing to a 225/50/16 profile tire which had more of a rounded edge to the footprint, it was like driving a different car. For a street car the narrower tire worked out better. For a race car on smooth tracks and without the suspension travel of a street car (which would be on all sorts of rough roads), you can obviously get away with wider tires. As to modifying the cross member or adding Bump steer spacers, well that is up to the individual. All the best for the New Year. David (Enzo)

Hello Guys, Merry Christmas from Australia. I am getting a head heavily modified at the moment with Argon welded chambers, etc to go with a bottom end with all Datsun spirit parts. The original head was warped so I purchased a replacement head. When I was discussing the modification with the engineer he mentioned about pre-bending the head prior to commencing the work. I asked him if the head being warped was an issue. He replied that if it hadn't been cooked beyond repair and softening the alloy it would be ok for the modifications. As it worked out the warped head was ok to use with the benefit of being pre-bent and I got to keep a spare good head. Have a safe Christmas and new Year. David (Enzo)