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Casper0878

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Everything posted by Casper0878

  1. I plan on swapping a 2JZ GTE VVTI into my 1978 Datsun 280Z. My goal is to hit 500hp, nothing crazy and plenty of power for that car. I was thinking of using a Garrett GTX3071R 2nd gen or a GTX3076R 2nd gen. For my power goals these are plenty and spool up really quick. A video I saw on YouTube showed a 2JZ swapped 240sx hitting 509hp on 20PSI with 264 cams and pump gas and full boost at 3300rpm. Since I plan on using a CD009 out of a 350Z and the differential from a Q45 which is 3.54, my gears aren't going to be super tall so I would rather have something more responsive. Regarding the ECU, I was thinking of going with the ECUMasters EMU Black. Mainly because of their PMU-16 which would replace relays and fuses: http://www.wiringspecialties.com/ecu-master-pmu16-power-management-unit/ My other option was to go with a switch board from Speedwire Systems: http://speedwiresystems.com/listings.../turbo-systems Not really sure which is best. As far as injectors go, I heard that FID are widely used in the Supra community but I was also recommended Deatschwerks ID1000. Someone also recommended Evolved Injection but I was later told to stay away as they are a 2 piece injector. Looking for feedback here regarding their pros/cons. Also debating between 850cc or 1000cc. I also read that on a VVTI a DBW throttle body acts as IACV (idle air control valve). I need confirmation on this. Driftmotion sells a Universal Remote Mount Idle Speed Control. Then there is the question of coils. I was planning on going with IGN1A coils: https://induction-performance.myshopify.com/collections/supra-electronics/products/induction-performance-ign1a-coil-kit?variant=30079419329 But was recommended LQ9 coils which I heard some people have issues with at high HP, so they should be fine for me since I plan on keeping it in the 500hp range. Any help/advice would be greatly appreciated! Thank you very much for taking the time to read this.
  2. If I got the Q45 diff I would probably just get the whole subframe. Would be cheaper at the junkyard than to get the parts individually. Then I could have a 5 lug in the rear with the beefier axles that T3 would rebuild when I purchase their rear end conversion kit. How do you like the R154 with the 3.54 diff?
  3. Spoke with the people at T3 and since I plan on using their rear conversion kit I would need a 96 or lower Q45 differential. The 97 and up doesn't work. This is what they told me: 1990--->1996 Z32 300ZX Non Turbo comes in 5 lug hubs only (R200) CV's are 27 spline to 27 spline large CV Shafts have 5 star flanges 5 lug hubs CAN be swapped onto S13 and S14 CV's More attractive rear calipers E brake as a drum inside rotor 4.08 Final gear ratio 1990--->1996 Z32 300ZX Twin Turbo comes in 5 lug hubs only (R230) CV's are 28 spline to 28 spline CV Shafts have 6 star flanges 5 lug hubs from this car can NOT be swapped onto S13 or S14 CV's More attractive rear calipers E brake as a drum inside rotor 3.69 Final gear ratio 1990---->1996 Q45 comes in 5 lug only (stronger R200) CV's are 28 spline to 28 spline CV Shafts have 6 star flanges All Had Viscous LSD's 5 lug hubs from this car can NOT be swapped onto S13 or S14 CV's Standard sliding rear caliper E brake as a drum inside rotor 3.54 Final gear ratio And yeah, making this initial decision is difficult. I don't want to choose a transmission that isn't optimal then have to re-purchase the transmission, transmission swap kit to the motor and a driveshaft. Most likely I will be going with the Q45 VLSD 3.54 differential, just gotta decide what tranny to match it up to. What differential do you have with your R154? As far as turbos, I was thinking of going with a Precision turbo 6266
  4. This is not going to be a daily driver, just a fun weekend car. Maybe some canyon runs or a few laps at the track at events but that's about it. I just want a fun street car. I am definitely not trying to win any races or events in this thing as I am not going crazy modding the engine itself. Besides injectors, coils, ecu and single turbo the internals are staying the same. Having so many options available makes it really hard to decide what to go with. Things are so much easier on my RSX-S as there is only 1 engine I can swap for bigger numbers. What would you recommend? I want to get the most out of my turbo of course but also want something comfortable to drive. Gas mileage in my final gear isn't an issue as I'll only be driving this on the weekends. Do you have any info on the Q45? I looked online and some say that 90-96 is an R200 3.54 VLSD while others say it is 90-97. Then it also says 97 and up is an R230. Can't find a straight answer
  5. Oh yeah I know. Been talking to Brett over at Collins Adapters and he recommends this transmission over the 300zx anyday. Even though it will be more work to put in, they are more readily available should something happen to it. What I am researching now is the differential. My buddy has the 300zx tranny with the 3.7LSD diff and he says he has problems getting more than 5psi in 1st gear due to having to shift. I still have my stock 3.54 differential. Will that work with the CD009? Should I get the Q45 differential which is also 3.54? I know some Supras run 3.266 differentials. I was thinking of using a Precision Turbo 6266 so nothing too big. It would spool up decently quick and top out probably when I need to shift, idk just pulling this out of my butt lol
  6. Yeah even if only slightly, it still gives me less room to work with. Plus I have OCD and seeing the engine off centered would drive me nuts lol
  7. I found a guy on FB selling the McKinney transmission mount for the CD009. He also has the CXRacing engine mounts. Said I could have it all for $350. That's why I am on here debating which motor mounts to go with. Might just get the tranny mount for now so I can at least have it.
  8. Yeah the Tech2 kit includes all of that but only if I decide to go with an R154 transmission. I was thinking of going with the Nissan 350z CD009 tranny instead so I would only need a partial kit from Tech2, just the stuff to mount the motor, which they quoted me at $1,250. Seems like it should be a bit cheaper since they are taking out the driveshaft along with the transmission mount. I thought more like half price but it is what it is.
  9. Yeah my buddy sent me pics of his engine as it sits and you are right, it is a bit off to the passenger side. I saw pics of the yellow 240Z that Tech2 built for SEMA a few years ago and it seems to be perfectly centered, at least compared to the hood latch mechanism. Can't tell from the pic if it sits further back or not.
  10. Did you sell the Tech2 kit or do you have it available for sale? They told me it was bolt on but someone just told me I would need to weld the cross member to the car. Which is it?
  11. I was wondering if anyone has experience with these 2 brands of engine mounts. The price difference is pretty big so curious if one is CXRacing is just cheap quality and price or if perhaps Tech2motorsports overcharges ($1,250 for engine mount kit without tranny stuff) for their mount kit even though it includes a modified cross member and CXRacing doesn't. Also, a buddy of mine used the CXRacing mounts and says the only thing he didn't like is that the engine sat a bit more away from the firewall than he would've liked. Has anyone used the Tech2 engine mounts? How far from the firewall is the engine? Could you please post pics for comparison? Thank you!
  12. I just watched those videos. WOW! That is a lot of work!!
  13. Wow, thank you all for your responses. Seems like the general consensus is do it if I can fab the work myself and forget about it if I can't lol. Hope to continue getting info on this. Can anyone chime in on the differences they noticed? Did you go from stock S30 to S13/S14 and saw good improvements? Did anyone go from some T3 stuff to S13/S14? Thanks again for the info!
  14. Yeah trying to find out as much information as possible before deciding what to do. I have time so in no rush to jump into anything. Just started following someone on IG who is going to do an S14 rear and S13 front swap so the pics and info should be very helpful. My stepdad and stepbrother both know how to weld, but it still feels like a very extensive undertaking. Will need to continue doing research but all opinions are welcome. Thanks for replying
  15. Well I plan on keeping the 2JZ stock for now but eventually I want to do a single turbo, more aggressive cams, aftermarket ECU, bigger injectors and such. Going to go with 91 octane for fuel so no crazy boost. Would like to keep it around 450hp which should be easy to reach with the upgrades. Even stock I should be above 400hp I believe. I was going to get the front/rear LCA, tension rod, mustache bar, outer tie rod, drop mounts/dogbone combo, front and rear Wilwood brakes and I already have CV axles that need the adapter and the shorter shaft. Just wanted to refresh the suspension instead of just changing bushings and "cleaning up" the stock suspension. That was the plan and I had planned for it in my budget. I also have the wide ZG flares, just need to measure and cut to install them. I might take it on the track at events but definitely not trying to win any. Just want to have fun and enjoy the ride. More likely I will be looking for fun canyon runs and cruising on the highway on weekends as I don't plan on making this my daily driver. As far as smog, I know a shop in the area who helped me pass when my Integra couldn't. The mechanic across the street is a family friend so they hook me up. Just can't afford to get pulled over and sent to a referee for a visual inspection as the JDM 2JZ doesn't have an EGR valve.
  16. I am rebuilding a 1978 280Z and was planning all along to pretty much buy all of the suspension items available from T3, minus perhaps the coilovers since I wanted to go with BG Racing. I want to do a 2JZ swap with maybe a Z32 transmission and want it to be a fun street car. I will not be doing any drag racing or drifting as I do not want to beat the crap out of the car after all the work I will be doing restoring it. Recently I met a gentleman who had the S13 subframe installed and who claimed I couldn't go wrong with either set up but that the S13 subframe would give me way more options for upgrades as well as flexibility and adjustability. He also claimed it would be cheaper, unless I had to pay a shop to do the labor, which I would since I do not know how to weld. I contacted 2 companies that sell suspension items for the S30 and asked them their opinion on the pros/cons of the S13 subframe vs T3 stuff. This was their response: 1st company: "As far as I know, there is no mount kit for putting a complete S13 subframe under the car.....for good reason. The S13 subframe is fairly complex, yet poor handling design. The multi-link rear suspension is an inherently loose system. This is why they are such good drift cars, but rarely ever seen in road race. The Z car's original suspension geometry is a far better road race setup and linear handling design. It is proper sports car handling. The S13 subframe is a huge bulky setup as well. I think with a LOT of fab work you could put it under the Z car, but you'd be sitting at truck height because it would hang so low. In the end with all the fab work, I doubt you'd save much money, and you'd end up with a poor handling, ugly monstrosity of a mess under the car." And the 2nd company: "the s13 is a much better new technology it has similar to a double wish bone suspension which is far superior to the 240z rear suspension and differential. it will handle better. But it looks like a really long project with much welding cutting grinding fabricating. I would not do it unless i had all the tools already, and the skill to pull of such a project, and the amount of time for it. So do you have those resources is the questions? If you decide to keep s30 parts everything will kinda bolt on. any upgrade you buy will bolt on. All the parts are the same price. brake kits, suspension parts. so i'm not sure which one would be cheaper to do. It's a hard questions." Their opinions seems to vary, one saying it would handle well while the other saying it would handle better. Now I have not had the opportunity to drive a car that has either set up, but would like to know the opinion of the people who have done these upgrades. From the people with the T3 setup, how do you like it and would you go this route again? From the S13 setup, how difficult was the swap and do you wish you had gone with something easier and bolt on? Any and all information, advice and suggestions will be greatly appreciated. I did some searching around and found a few threads talking about the swap but not comparing the two in regards to handling and also cost.
  17. Just picked up an L28ET out of an 82ZX. Going to drop this into my 78Z instead of the original motor. I know the preferred turbo when upgrading these motors is a hybrid t3-t4, is there a brand that has better reputation over others? I heard Spearco makes a really nice intercooler, but what is the best setup for the piping? I have seen some run it under their oil pan. I read that the 3.59 differential is good for a turbo motor. Was planning on getting the close ratio 5 speed and the 3.90 differential (when I was going NA) but not sure if that is still the way to go. I know if I get the T5 transmission I will have to modify the driveshaft to fit. Any advice on what to look out for from people who have done this swap already?? Reading the following: http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/38461-240z-260z-280z-turbo-swap-guide/ http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/34469-a-quick-fi-and-ignition-280zxt-to-s30-turbo-swap-guide/
  18. Are there any parts I should be focusing on replacing? I know the half shafts are the weak point in the back, so I was going to upgrade to the 300zx. Brakes are on my list, not sure if I want to convert the rear to disks though but definitely upgrading the front. Suspension wise, not sure I like the idea of my lowering springs not seating properly. I heard some people use zip ties. Doesn't sound very safe. The BC Racing coilovers look nice, $1,500 with swift springs
  19. I read through the thread by BRAAAP, and since the price of Megasquirt is so low I am considering buying one for better gas mileage if nothing else. With MS installed, what other mods can I benefit from? I read the stock cam is actually really good for delivering low end torque and high end HP. Upgrading to a bigger cam would come at the cost of low end torque. I wanted to also swap to the ZX distributor and a better ignition system. Doing some research I found out some people do not like the polyurethane bushings due to squeaking and too much stiffness. Some actually breaking suspension parts due to not having any give. Not gonna track my car, just drive around town maybe smashing on the gas every once in a while so I won't be cornering hard or anything like that.
  20. So I recently purchased a 1978 280Z from the original owner. The car ran but the water pump was bad and the owner broke 2 of the bolts when trying to replace it. The car started up perfectly every time and shifted fine so I took it as is. The paint was in great condition and I found very little rust. A couple of weeks ago I pulled the motor and last night took the head off. Haven't taken apart the head or block but everything seems to be in really good shape. Besides the broken bolts plus the one I broke taking off the thermostat housing since it was so corroded. I have been doing a ton of reading trying to learn as much as possible regarding these cars and the motors so I can decide on a good build that will suit my driving. I am not a speed freak by any means. My current daily car is an RSX-S and my last car was a GSR, so you can see I don't go very fast lol. They're nice peppy little cars but not FAST by any means. Even so, I hardly find myself going over 70 when cruising back and forth places. My original plan was to get a 350Z and do an LSx swap. When doing a CL search for a 350Z, I came across a post someone had tagged selling their 280Z. I had totally forgotten about these cars. I started to read more about them and saw plenty of people doing the same swap to these cars. This caught my attention. Being that I am an automotive student I thought having a project car to work on while I go to school would be a lot of fun and a great learning experience. And also being able to restore a car from the same year I was born, yes I am 36 not some young dumb kid, made this project more personal. Right now an LSx swap is just not in my budget (I have the money but would like to save it for a house). Not sure if I will still want to do it later down the road but for now I am shooting for just a rebuild. I would like to get some more "pick up and go" out of the L28 motor without swapping to the L28ET or changing to this head or that block. After reading around for quite a while, I am still not sure exactly what the best route would be for me. I live in California so I am limited by 91 octane as well. This is what I have planned so far: Transmission: 280ZX 5speed 280ZX R200 3.9 differential Lighter flywheel New clutch and pressure plate Block: Hone or slight bore Dished pistons (was going to do flat top but having to get a bigger gasket and retarding timing doesn't seem worth it) Head: Very little machine work as I heard the N47 exhaust port should not be messed with. Maybe just some slight work on the intake port for better flow. A little unshrouding Maybe bigger valves (have not looked into this yet) Maybe bigger throttle body (have not looked into this yet) I was thinking bigger cam (then I read that I would need to upgrade the EFI which I know nothing about, Megasquirt??) Header 2.5" exhaust Intake What do you guys think? Any advice would be greatly appreciated. This will be for weekend driving and cruising. I just want a fun car to drive. I do have How to Modify Your Nissan/Datsun OHC as well as How to Rebuild your Nissan/Datsun OHC Engine
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