outrider

Attached is output from my scope (10mv/div). I was turning it probably around 100 rpm with a cordless drill. Thought maybe this might help if anyone had any ideas. Top is the primary, if it's stopped on a slit it goes to 0. You can see the 11 pulses only get down to ~4mv though, and the missing tooth is where it stays at 16mv. Secondary on bottom behaves the opposite, outputting a 20mv pulse at the slits, and rest around 0 the rest of the time. It's like it's working, just not 'amplifying' the signal? I guess from my reading I had expected to see more like 5v on the pulses.

EDIT: Solved. In case anyone stumbles on this, the Z distributor requires pull-up. This dawned on me when it finally clicked that every testing procedure I read through tells you test with it connected to the car (so the factory ECU can pull it up). EMU has an option for pullup in the trigger setup, simply turned that on and started seeing signals. I'm in the final stages of wiring up my ECUMaster EMU to the L28 I'm building for my 260, and having trouble getting any ignition trigger input. I'm running an 83 turbo distributor with the DIY 12-1 trigger wheel. I had assumed I just had something wired wrong, and jumped right to testing the sensor directly as well as the wiring to the dizzy. On the harness side, I have switched +12 on the red wire, confirmed with a multi-meter, 12.4xx between red and black. I've poured over schematics and 99.9% sure that's correct. I've also connected 12v and ground directly to the distributor, then checked from both of the remaining pins to ground looking for a 5v signal pulse. I'm not seeing that, although I do see something, like maybe 1v on the secondary trigger when the slit passes through, and just a couple millivolts on primary. I figured at this point the CAS was bad (the epoxy was all melty looking and kind of leaking out too), so I ordered a replacement for a 300zx, as it was cheaper and from what I read better. I got the replacement today and it's acting almost the same. Difference being now I only get a couple mv on the secondary trigger as well. I think I've narrowed it down to three possibilities. I've misunderstood the wiring diagrams, and I'm feeding power to the wrong pin, testing the wrong pin, etc. Maybe I need to use a pull-up resistor? But I'm hesitant to put 5-12v on the signal lines and burn something up, until I either find a schematic of the internals of the cas, or someone comes to my rescue and confirms that the sensor is sinking current rather than sourcing it. The new CAS I ordered is also junk. Unfortunately the best odds of me finding one in Grand Rapids, MI this weekend would be a junkyard, so I might be running out to the pick-a-part tomorrow and looking for a Z or pathfinder or something. Anyone have any other ideas? Have I misunderstood how to test these? Thank you for any help!

Well like I said, I had it laying around. It has a .58 A/R exhaust housing with a 62mm turbine, on my 2jz Supra it spooled near instantly. I've switched that out for a BW S362 for a little more headroom. Hence why it was collecting dust in my shop. I know the L28 isn't a 2jz, so I don't expect it to be quite as energetic as it was. Still hoping for good results though. If it don't work, it's just 4 bolts and a v-band clamp. The harder part would be making everything line back up with a T3 turbo. I'd probably machine out a spacer and use longer studs.

I seen those but was worried about clearance. I hadn't thought about the gasket blowing out . If I ever get this thing running I'll update if/when the gasket fails. Fingers crossed it holds together I guess.

Well it's been probably a year since my last (and probably first) post here. At the time I was swapping a 7M into my 260, and had put the front subframe from a MK3 Supra in to my car. Life happened, and my project has changed directions a few times now. When the 7M I had turned out to need more money in machine work than a complete 2jz, I canned the 7M idea, and put the stock Z suspension back in (refreshed at least). Then one day out picking parts I came across a turbo 280, and scored the complete engine and 5 speed for $400. I've rebuilt the engine and finally getting started on the fun stuff. I didn't find a lot of information on adapting to a T4 turbo frame, probably because there aren't a ton of good reasons for doing it. In my case, I already had a Precision turbo with a custom 59mm billet wheel, and a .58 T4 exhaust housing. Getting the studs out were a treat. Two I was able to just double nut, the other two I broke off, so I welded nuts to them and was able to get them out. The T4 adapter was maybe $30 off ebay. I'm using an external wastegate. I bored a hole under the flange for the turbo and welded a stainless elbow to the manifold. My welding skills aren't great, but I don't think it's going to leak. My supra has a screamer pipe on it. I'm not a huge fan of the sound. So I decided to route the wastegate back to the downpipe. The downpipe is actually for a MK3 Supra, I just had to cut about 10 inches out of it and weld it back together. Ignore my collection of horror freight pneumatic tools Finally all back assembled. And installed in the car. There you have it. Seems to clear everything just fine. Now I'm off to hack up my intake manifold. Cheers!

I've heard that after washing with acid, the freshly etched metal will rust easily. Using phosphoric acid will leave a coating (because it converts the rust) that will help prevent flash rusting, but if it were my tank I would still spend the 30 bucks on red kote. I've also heard of a number of ways to do this btw. Muriatic, phosphoric, hydrochloric acids, white vinegar, even molasses. I'm planning to use phosphoric then coating, on mine, but still doing plenty of research to make sure that's the right decision.

I slept on this, and am about 98% sure I should try and move the engine back as much as I can. I'm still hoping someone with experience will come along and say it won't effect the handling, and can just leave it as is. I suspect the opposite will happen though. So much for dropping right in on the stock mounts.

I would say 4 inches sounds about right. I don't remember the exact measurements off hand. However... The stock Z wheels I believe are 0 offset. Stock Supra wheels are something like 30-35mm of offset, which is a little more than an inch. So if you subtract that, the wheels actually only stick out about 1.25 inches on either side. I'm hoping between flares and wheel offset, it won't be noticeable.

I started a topic a while back, showing my 74 260z that I am doing a 7m swap in to. Since I had a whole donor Supra to take parts from, I decided to yank the front and rear subframes, and see how they might look under the Z. I'm stripping it down to fix some rust and paint it anyways. So far I've only worked on the front. I suppose at this point I'm pretty well committed to the swap. It looks cool and different anyways. The front fit in nicely. It required notching the frame rails to get the height right. Width wise, you would think Nissan had always intended for this to fit. I've cobbled together front struts using the Z springs and tops, and the Supra rear strut assembly. I'm thinking about just trying to build a custom coilover with parts from A1 or something. Open to any suggestions here. I can tell the spring rate is wrong with the current setup though, it's merely holding things together while I fabricate. Ride height is about perfect though, with everything loaded down. My other question is on the engine placement. Using the Supra subframe, the 7m dropped right in to the car no problem. It feels like it sits a bit forward, although the stock L26 did too. Honestly it looks close to stock, and the Solstice tranny I'm using lines up with opening for the shifter as well. So that all looks well, radiator will fit, etc, but I'm curious if it would be worth my time to move it backwards closer to the firewall. I have probably 5-6 inches I could go back. I would have to modify the shifter to compensate. On the flip side, where it's sitting right now, I might have to modify the hood a tiny bit. So I'm not sure what direction I should go here. I suppose it's worth the thought that since it's stock mounts on a stock subframe, that the weight distribution over the front wheels should be similar to what the toyota engineers intended in the Supra. Although the Z is much shorter overall, and this may upset the overall weight distribution of the car. I'm starting to creep outside my comfort zone of knowledge, so I'm hoping someone has some input on these two items. Here are a couple pictures, and before anyone says anything, the grade nothing tractor supply bolts holding the subframe in will be replaced with proper hardware at final assembly

I knew someone would call me out on that, just didn't think it would be so quick . I edited a few of them, just now. The frustrating thing is that windows (8.1) displays them correctly, but once they are uploaded some are goofy. Something to do with the orientation of my phone when I took them I think. The front is going to be too easy. If the back half will drop in, it could open a lot of doors for people that want to do the full brakes/diff/axles/and so on to these cars. Just from looking at it though, I think it's going to take a bit of fab work.

---Sorry some of the pictures are sideways, and being too lazy to rotate them. Long time Z enthusiast, albeit with 300z's, network administrator, admitted car junkie, etc. I've been zed-less for about 6 or 7 years now, and finally decided to try my hand at an older one. I sold my BMW 540, biggest complaint being there is just so little aftermarket available for the German V8. I started looking for an S30 Last fall, I bought a early 260z from a member on another Z site. He lived close by, and the car was in decent shape for Michigan (I believe it came from somewhere down south). A friend of mine and I headed out with a trailer, and came home with the banana. I never took pictures of when I first got it, here are the pictures from the ad: I putted around for a few months with it. It was fun, but needed some work. Someone had obviously put some effort in to restoring it at some point, but it was time for another go. The floor pans were repaired once already with fiberglass, and were gone, again. A few spots had been clearly repaired before it was painted with leftover line striping paint (if the previous owner is on this board, I'm sorry for making fun of your color). And I was just not a fan of the color. Also around this time, I started looking at how to get a little more from the stock 2.6, which most people would say replace it with a l28et. I searched and searched, and just couldn't find anything close to home that was priced reasonably. I considered a vh45, rb motors, Nissan vg, and the Toyota sixes. I'm most familiar with the VG, and 2jz, although before I did the 2jz swap on my MK3 Supra, I messed around with the 7m a bit. It's a very torquey motor, and is very underrated in my opinion. Usually when you mention the 7m, people just run off to hide their head gaskets. With a standalone and E85, I think it will make way more power than I need, and hold together just fine. The final nail in the coffin was coming across a sweet deal on the ar5 solstice transmission, which is basically an updated r154 5-speed. Some haggling with the members over on a supra forum, and I had everything needed to bolt up the modern manual for less than 500 bones. I grabbed an entire NA MK3 Supra from a Craigslist ad for $400. I wasn't worried about using the NA motor, since I was doing a big T4 single, standalone, and 10 thousand dollars in overnight parts from Japan. I know it doesn't have oil squirters, I'm doing forged internals, I don't think they really help on aftermarket pistons. So here is my prize: I saved all the parts worth anything, sold a handful of it on Ebay, took the steel back to the scrap yard, and am about 200 bucks ahead now and have an engine, harness, accessories, etc, etc. I've stripped the Z down, I have a million pictures of this, no need to post them all, but here are a few good shots: Really the only major rust I've found is the floorboards, a little bit by the fuel filler that was repaired once already, and in the spare tire well, also not really serious I guess. I've already got new floor pans sitting here, I'll hopefully be welding those in soon. So here is a surprise, and I might start a new thread if this works out. I have the S30 front subframe out, and set it next to the MK3 subframe I saved from the donor car. Interestingly enough, the inside dimensions for going between the frame rails is basically identical, 31.5 inches. Is it wider overall? Of course, but it doesn't appear much wider. only about 3 inches on either side from the face of the wheel hub. So I had to see if it would fit. It's obviously heavier, but maybe that extra weight could bring some advantages. 5 lug wheels, bigger brake selection, suspension selection, more modern suspension geometry? Also I have the option of using the Supra luxo power steering rack. And in my particular case, with any luck I'll be able to use the 7m motor mounts. I guess if it all works out, one could use any of the cheap 2jz in a MK3 mount kits to mount a 2jz on this subframe as well. Any rate, here are the pictures: For those that aren't familiar, the Supra front subframe mounts with 4 great big bolts through the frame. It should be pretty trivial to drill those. The real issue will be lining everything up straight and centered. Also crossing my fingers I can swap the tops of the struts. Lastly, I'll have to fab a bracket of some sort for the rear 'smaller' subframe mount. Here is test fitting with a 16 inch supra spare: Surprisingly, with the offset on the stock wheels, it only sticks out about 1.5 inches. I was hoping to be able to just throw a set of flares on, and have everything fit. Thoughts? I'll be checking the rear subframe as well, although I suspect it will be a bit more work. It would be nice if it could just drop in like the front. I would have CV axles, clutch LSD and a very strong diff. Matching 5 lug wheels, brakes, suspension, etc. So hopefully in the coming weeks I can post the results of that. I know at least one other person has talked about it. If anyone knows if this has been done already, please point me that way! And finally, if anyone needs a complete running 2.6L or 4 speed manual, let me know.