Marlin2

This is really interesting! Kind of put's a spin on buying cars outside of CA. Are you saying that any car purchased outside has to be inspected? Certainly all those muscle cars with 350 swaps don't get inspected. If it were an issue, it might be worth it to pull the engine and get it inspected then? Or is this something were you are actually trying to get it registered as having an engine swap?

I can't tell from the picture, but could you combine these ITB's and a SK-style intake (with ports on each individual runner) in order to hook up 6 Bosch 02 sensors and measure A/F directly? I'd think that'd be a very precise setup. To trade my Dellortos in for these though, I don't know... Edit : Off topic article on carburetor's http://www.roadandtrack.com/car-culture/a25816/lost-art-the-weber-sidedraft-carburetor/

You're completely right Tony, like I said, lesson learned.

I often think about opening a small auto shop in CA but for the very reasons listed above I haven't seriously considered it. I know just to hook up an OBD2 sensor the going price is $100, because the darn machines are so expensive. I think there is good and honest money to be had in this business, but unfortunately rent is so outrageously high down here. Thanks for the tool! However just to clarify, that rate is if you bring your vehicle in and they have to disassemble and reassemble everything.

The only special tool the mechanic required for my knuckle was a disk to fit inside and on the bearing, and a tool for the c - clip. It wasn't a fancy gig. The clerk justified his price by saying the press cost $1500. But I do agree with you, when you go to a mechanic shop you are paying overhead, to include the price of their tools and the convenience. So I checked a couple websites, Harbor Freight, Summit, and the cost of a good 6-ton press can be easily had for $100. Then I checked the price for the press kit. Those range from $30 to $500+ but again, Summit sells a good one for $50. I still need one more hub assembly pressed, and will probably need it done again some time later in my life. I think I might just make the $150 dollar investment now and hook myself and a couple buddies up. So if anyone is in the SD area and needs this done, I'd be happy to do it for ya, for an arm and leg.

You're right, that was my mistake, and I shouldn't of made it. At the time I was just so upset at myself for allowing it to happen. Next time, I'll get the price in writing beforehand. No, it was an old Ford Focus I use as my daily driver. But thank you for teaching me something about my Z After reading your comments again I felt like a huge schmuck. I do understand that shops here in SoCa charge way upwards of $100 an hour for labor. Still I couldn't sleep on it so I looked it up and for any of you who care to learn, here is what is required to press a bearing in/out of a steering knuckle on most modern cars: Proper installation of press-in style front wheel bearing The video is 5 minutes long, and includes a very in depth explanation. What I brought to the mechanic was all the parts, a steering knuckle with the hub and c-clip removed, and all of the bearing, except for the outer ring still inside. The mechanic had to press the ring out, press the new bearing in (doesn't have ABS so who cares what side), press the new hub in, and install the new c-clip. Total time for realistic labor = 3 minutes. I'd expect most mechanics to be able to do it under less. I don't know, I still don't feel like $40 was an honest/fair price.

I feel like I might have overreacted today. I took my steering knuckle in to get the outer ring of my wheel bearing pressed out, and then had them press in a sealed bearing and hub...they wanted $50 and I payed $40 to avoid the cops. Something tells me this should of only been a $30 "tip" and a good ol' fashioned handshake. After all, I wanted to come back the next day with the other hub. Any thoughts?

When I think of historic vehicles, images of cars prior to 1940 pop out. Maybe keep the historical vehicle plates for later and just rock the vintage green ones? They look nice.

Hi boost, listing stuff in the For Sale part of the forum is for members who have donated.

Taken off of my 3/71 series 2; I have an ash tray, vent knob, heater housing thing with levers, and I'll PM you where to buy the piston. I'm really busy this week so I can't send photos until the weekend. I'd charge $10+shipping

As the title says I'm Looking for a 1970 240z shell, doesn't need to be rolling. Will need a clean title, open to out of state cars if they're worth it. Please PM me for a faster response! Thanks.

Very beautiful looking car! Are those trim pieces or part of the body going up at an inward angle from the fender flares to the roof?

Really enjoyed reading this, I was originally from Oregon as well and have a similar story. My suggestion to you, keep your Honda. Or, like myself, buy a very cheap yet reliable daily driver. That way, you can take your time with your 240z, as you'll want to...and at times, you'll have to. Like you I bought my first 240z wanting it to be my daily driver. Very quickly did I realize I needed something a little more comfortable to drive around traffic, so I picked up a zx3 focus hatchback for $2500. That allows me to build up my 240z as powerful as I want (and can afford $$$). My 240z is not fun to drive in stop and go traffic, at the moment she's not near finished, and it can be scary as hell in the middle of the freeway on I-5 after work. I don't know how long you've been in CA, but the drivers are crazy. It's only a matter of time till your car gets scratched, and by the time you pour $10k+ into it, you'll really not want to risk mangling up the body as a daily driver. Sell your Honda, take $3000, go buy the best car you can find, and save a little $$$ for tune ups and pour the rest into making your 240z safe. Drive your other car as a daily, have a little more piece of mind when driving, enjoy the luxury and pay practically nothing for insurance through USAA. Then build your 240z up to be a street/track car....which is different than a daily driver....and REALLY enjoy her. (Or keep your Honda, as it'll be more reliable than a 140K mi $3000 car.) Best of luck. If you're in SoCal send me a PM. P.S. 1. Go take pictures of your car in a garage, call USAA and get collectors car insurance. 2. Drop USAA roadside assistance and get ALLSTATE's Premium package. Unlimited tows covering $250 a piece

As far as new cars go then a Lotus 7 would have to be it. If I could trade my 240z for anything in the past it would be one of the following: 1920's Bugatti Type 35B 1920's Alfa Romeo 8C 1924 Bentley Twin Turbo 1961 ZIL-112 Sports car - It featured the inline 8 cylinder engine out of the ZiL-111, which was good for about 230 hp. It sported a limited slip diff, radial tires, and disc brakes, all firsts for Soviet Union-produced cars. Anything carb'ed with an XK6 or Speed Six motor or I8...

Just got done talking with Dave Patten, now owner of WC Racing: Ordered his CV Axels for the r200!

You're right! That was a mistake on my part, thanks. Because I had not checked the "Allow Administrators to send you email" box, I never received the activation email with an ID, and it ended up in my spam folder. Now, to see if I can find an answer to the intake question... Update: March 31st, 2016 For those of you looking for a header that will fit with John Mangoletsi's intake I contacted Sean Dezart over at ZClub who specifically makes custom stainless steel exhaust systems for the L-series engines. It'll take a couple months until I receive my system, but will update with pictures when it does.

Thanks for the suggestion! Went ahead and searched their forums, though they have a few posts on the Mangoletsi setup, not one lists the header used in conjunction. Unfortunately Zclub charges 15 euros to post...I'll have to pass.

Hello, it's really hard to find information on these intake manifolds so I figured I'd ask here, Anyone know what headers will fit with the newer Mangoletsi intake manifold for triple Webers/Dellortos? The only 240z' that I could find running them were Erik Jonasson's and Spike Anderson's. However no write-up listed a manufacturer for their headers, just that they were 6-1 with a 2.5" exhaust. I had the emissions bar cut off stock exhaust manifold and JB welded the holes for a temp. fix until I found out the Mangoletsi intake didn't sit correctly on the stock exhaust to bolt up to the head. http://www.mangoletsimanifolds.com/manifolds/datsun-240z-260z-280z-intake-manifold-linkage.pdf

I'll definitely look into Flickr, thanks! Appreciate the positive reinforcement! Will continue to clean up my posting structure as I go.. Was going to save this for later but I'm too impatient: Looking into getting a triple set of Dellorto DHLA 45M in the very near future...to anyone who likes easter eggs this should be a hint to what's coming in the future...wayy too excited for those. They will probably lay under my pillow while I continue to replace all the dry rot. UPDATE : April 1st, 2016 The Mangoletsi intake does't sit correctly on the stock exhaust manifold...waiting for full exhaust system to get in at the end of May/ June Also ordered upgraded WolfCreek cv axels from Dave Patton at FuboFab, should get here at the end of April

Seventh Issue: Fuel leaking under SU carbs when car starts/runs Diagnosis: Still researching and learning about the SU carbs, that's either the overflow or sender line to the carbs, I probably just need to purchase smaller hoses and put clamps on them. She will have to sit some more

Summer of 2015: Purchased car out in the valley of California, will update with pictures later. 1971 240z Original L24 Block Original 918 Orange Paint No stereo Running First Issue: Fuel Leak Symptom: Drove until I needed fuel, pulled over to the gas station and started to fill up. Click! Held down handle for gas pump, fuel poured out all over the ground, coming from under there car! A bunch of apologies later, drove around again getting weird looks until I was empty (was leaking fuel when stopped at lights). Filled er' up and dumped fuel again, at the same gas station! Many more angry stares later, drove back home, jacked car up and emptied tank - She will have to sit there until she stops leaking. Diagnosis: One of the hoses going from the top of the fuel tank to the evaporation tank was missing Fix: Followed this guide. Replaced all hoses and clamps, also replaced fuel sender unit, and o-ring. Didn't bother cleaning the tank, I didn't have time for that.Second Issue: Driving around and car suddenly dies Diagnosis & Fix: Checked engine bay, negative battery cable disconnected, Re-attached. Although I loved learning about my 240z, I'd really rather learn about these things from the comfort of my couch. Story Time: Navigated 250 miles down I-5S, stopped at a gas station to get food, tried to start - cranks but no luck. Third Issue: Cranks but won't start Diagnosis & Fix: Car wasn't getting fuel, disconnected fuel hose - outlet fuel pump - going into fuel rail inlet. Started car with carb cleaner and ran until fuel spilled out hose, hooked back up and wallah! On the road again..250 more miles south and no issues yet. Fourth Issue: Can't shift into gear Diagnosis: No fluid in master cylinder! Where did it go? Buddy drives to meet me on side of freeway with a bottle of Dot 3. Pump, pump, pump...no pressure! Fluid is gone. There's a leak somewhere in my line. Decided this was the best time to replace the entire line While I put off researching and ordering clutch line components, 6 months go by, flash rain throughout the winter enters my car - remember, weather striping isn't complete. Now, it's spring, starting to get hot outside...40 year old hoses don't like that. Fifth Issue: Let car sit for 6 months (DONT EVER DO THIS) Won't Start Diagnosis: Followed these troubleshooting steps. Fix: Turkey baster. Used it to check fuel out of fuel line, replaced fuel filter, "primed carbs" - Took a turkey baster and some hose and filled the SU Carb. bowls through the inlet rail, than hooked it back up and put the turkey baster with more fuel into the inlet of the fuel pump and started the car with Carb Cleaner. Sixth Issue: Radiator fluid on the ground Diagnosis: 40 Year old heater hose cracked over the winter, going to replace with ss braided hose, and use regular hose for the heater core. Also going to remove intake/carb coolant tubing and plug with 1/4" BSTP (British Standard Thread Pipe) plugs. Doesn't get cold enough in Southern CA to really need them, and once I upgrade carbs I'll no longer need them.

-Coming soon-

1971 240z "Kirin" Hi there! This is going to be my little Z build. Picked her up as a gift to myself after coming back from Japan. Today she sits eagerly awaiting to be fixed up and driven. After months of sitting I decided it was about time to get a move on it, so here we go! Last Updated: Dec 1st, 2016 - added a couple notes to self May 21st, 2016: Got it running after sitting for 9 months! Now it's sitting again -- Crank Keyway worn-out Note to Readers: I've linked most of the things I've purchased with their part number and a website. If you see something that isn't linked, or want to know where I purchased something, let me know! Exterior -Chassis: rusted -Body: dented steel panels, cracked fiberglass head buckets -Bumper: deleted rear bumper, ugly stock front still installed -Spoiler: Fairlady 432R Reproduction -Grill: Fairlady Z432 Reproduction (1 tuff z) -Paint : 918 Orange (original) -Misc: (order weatherstripping you lazy fool!) / (research rust prevention) / (research body work & paint) Interior Everything was stripped! Lend me your dry ice... Electrical -Battery: New Battery - Optima Red Top 25 / Autozone Universal Battery Mount / (correct size battery cables) -Alternator: upgraded alternator - 140Amp -Wiring Harness: stock (order pretty rainbow colored one - EZ) -Audio: no stereo -Lights: Headlights: Dapper Lighting 7" Classic V2 + White LED Halo (Halogen) / Tail lights: Dapper Lighting Sequential LED -Gauges: stock -Switches: stock -Sensors: Crank Pulley Flying-Magnets system -Ignition System: Distributor-less Simple Digital System Coil Pack Ignition -Spark Plugs: NGK Iridium IX Spark Plugs (PN 739-BPR6EIX) -Spark Plug Wires: 8mm Street Thunder; Spark Plug Wire; Custom Fit 6 cyl.; Black (PN 895-51090) (soon to be removed) -Misc: deleted external voltage regulator / (research windshield wiper motor) Engine & Exhaust - Acc. Belt: Napa (PN _____ ) -Intake Manifold: Mangoletsi -Carburetor(s): Triple Dellorto DHLA 45M -Jets: -Air Filter: K&N re-usable air filter (x3) -Cam: stock? not sure -Block: P30 L24 (Matching #'s) -Head: E31 - Ported (size) -Distributor: stock (delete & plug) -PCV Valve: Valve Cover Breather PCV K&N (PN 800-613) / Crankcase Vent Breather Filter PCV K&N (PN 800-406) (re-route to exhaust) -Exhaust: (research heat shield) -Misc: deleted random wires and screws in engine bay Cooling / Fuel / Oil -Radiator & Plumbing: Mishimoto radiator (PN MMRAD-DATS-70) / Upper & Lower Mishimoto radiator hoses (PN MMHOSE-DATS-70) / 1.75" Mishimoto radiator Tension Clamps / (install custom overflow tank) / (research fan shroud) -Thermostat: 160 degree thermostat & new gasket / 1/4" BSPT Alloy Steel Hex Plug w/ Plumbing tape (x1) -Fan: stock (order electric fan(s) x2) -Water Pump: stock (order gasket) -Misc: deleted manifold / carb coolant line & plugged thermostat housing hole / rotated 90 Deg elbow towards water pump - new 5/8" rubber hose [on order] hose brackets --- -Fuel Tank: stock (research fuel cell) -Fuel Pump: stock (research electrical/mech) -Fuel Regulator: none (research bypass 4+ PSI w/ gauge adapter) -Fuel Filter: Autozone (generic) -Fuel Rail: (removed) -Choke: stock (need to tuck) -Misc: new fuel sending unit, o-ring & lock ring --- -Oil Filter: Fram (size) -Oil Pan: stock -Misc: n/a Suspension / Tires & Brakes -Axels: -Suspension & Steering: clunk. clunk. clunk. -Braking System: I'll eventually stop..(all stock) -Rims: -Tires: cheap Goodyears (insert size) -Misc: n/a Drivetrain -Clutch: custom clutch hardline (3/8-24NPT to M10/1.0) -Master Cylinder: Tilton-76 7/8" Master cylinder (PN 76-875) / adapter (3/8-24NPT double flare to 3/8-24NPT bubble flare) / Girling reservoir, offset 7/16-20 outlet, 5oz -Slave Cylinder: Beck Arnley slave cylinder (PN 072-1258) w/ adjustable rod & return spring / SS clutch hose (PN 21-2170) (order mounting shims) -Throttle System: -Transmission: '77-80 "wide ratio" 5-speed -Differential: not sure yet -Misc: n/a Miscellaneous -AC: none -Heating System: deleted -Bolts: Replacing all bolts with ZCarDepot SS Bolt Kit (PN 650-000) -Hoses: Replaced most fuel vent hoses Going to have to backtrack a little, I hope you don't mind...

There was probably a smarter way to do this, but after going to the same gas station as before (I'm so sorry!) it leaked again, though not as much. I identified the faulty tube, hopefully the only one (however, I'm still replacing all). #1 is the bad tube, at the connection to the gas tank is where I saw that it was leaking. Is this a vent tube?