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supernova_6969

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About supernova_6969

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    Always Here
  • Birthday 07/02/79

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    Montreal, Canada
  1. Ignition Problems when Hot

    the later cars have a ignition module before the coil. not certain if your car has it, but thise are known to sometimes act up when they get hot..
  2. s130 l28et z31 engine harness and ecu swap

    Hey. what's your goal in this swap? I'm not familiar with that specific swap, but i see some potential issues right off the bat: -the harness PROBABLY aren't compatible. that means a lot of late night soldering. -the EC you mention is for a N/A car. problem with that (unless it gets flashed, and I'm not certain if that's what you want to) is that the fueling tables won't have any data for boosted areas.. -that ECU is either made for a 3l or a 2l engine. that would mean either too right or WAY to lean all the time... -timing tables are made for a more modern engine, which could mean potentially better designed, which could mean potentially with more advance (better design = less pinging potential). I don't know how much you'd pay for your ecu, but it might be worth looking at aftermarket fully programable ECUs. they'd work once tuned, and plenty of people have done it. Megasquirt (supercheap, can work awesome), wolf, I think makes some, haltech does, and a few others. actually, with all the mods you're planning on making, especially with the new turbo and the injectors, one way or the other, if you want your car to work well, you'll need to put it on a dyno. unless you have the ecu for free and it's easily reprogrammable, i'd just simply look for aftermarket. ask your favorite local dyno shop for their favorites, and pick one.
  3. t-top weather stripping

    hey! no a great solution, but if they seal and if the paint and the body is fine under the seals, i'd just leave them there, tape 'em and paint over them. like I said, not an awesome solution, but it should work for everything but a close inspection, or a full stock restoration. S. ps: you could try to separate the very top of the seal from the body to let some paint go under that first 1/16th of an inch, and then glue the strip back with weatherstripping glue. if you do, make sure to use it properly (I didn't): you need to spread the minimal amount on each side, super extra thin, let it dry, and then mate them. It's like contact cement...
  4. 280zx door striker size and source for door switch cover

    Thanks g-tech. I'll see what i can do for making the striker part with that. Anything less than 10 years old should be pretty acurate... As for ebay, i'd check before, and just did again because i didn't remember the results. The rubber cover can be had for less than 10$ each, which is not so bad. But the strikers are all more than 40-50$.. Good to know!
  5. Compare your Dyno sheets HERE

    madkaw: Wouldn't longer runner steal some of the low end torque? (Or is it the opposite?) As for the bigger plenum, what are the advantages? Is it because it's simply a bigger container from which the pistons can "suck" from or are there other advantages? Wouldn't having a efficient (i.e. less restriction) pre-plenum system make up for that? Got a build thread or some photos of what you are building?
  6. Hi! The doors on my 280zx are rattling (partly cause the striker is worn) and the rubber cover/ bumper on the drivers side door switch is worn through, which makes the metal striker hit the door AND makes the door light turn on all the time (its great when the car thinks your door is opened overnight. Does wonder to battery charge) Two questions: 1. Can anyone tell me the original, brand new diameter for the plastic part of the door striker? I'll try to 3d print a replacement and see if that can work (possibly with a rubber core.. I'll post something somewhere if it works) 2. Can anyone tell me of a good place to buy the rubber cover for the door switches? Looking for price as a primary criteria... Thanks! Seb
  7. Compare your Dyno sheets HERE

    Hey Guys. any new trips to the dyno, anyone? s.
  8. HybridZ may be shutting down.

    repost. sorry
  9. HybridZ may be shutting down.

    Hi! can't afford much more, but I gave 20$.. Also, i'll click on the adds more.. good luck! Seb
  10. Can you take off the oil pump without first drainning the oil?

    Thanks dexter.... I appreciate de extra info, i would never have thought of it...
  11. I'm thinking since the pump is higher then the oil level in the pan, it should not start to flow from there but i'm not certain. Any one ever tried?
  12. Twin cam head for the L6 from Derek at Datsunworks

    again, hijacking. about that awesome sound. I have a turbo car, and i'm thinking there is no way, even if I change the headers and the turbo-back to the same as yours or so, that I can achieve a similar sound because of the turbo acts as a kind of muffler.... is that right or am I mistaken? I don't know much, it's my first experience with turbos...
  13. Twin cam head for the L6 from Derek at Datsunworks

    so, ok. your car, at least the exhaust, sounds godly. just the other day, I was listening to a vid with a vintage 1950s aston martin (http://jalopnik.com/aston-martins-answer-to-ferrari-in-the-late-1950s-sound-1790551967) and your vid reminded me of that. yours is a bit more throaty but god does it sound good. what kinds of revs did you go up to, when you were really punching it? let me hijack your thread for about two posts (mine and yours) and ask you what is your exhaust (I've seen your custom headers, but I forget what you're running for pipe and muffler).. thanks! and I wish my car sounded as good as yours.... seb
  14. looks fantastic. but can you dim the gauge faces ( I forget if you mentioned it before)? looks like they could be very very bright against the night. but very cool looking...
  15. Oil Pan Removal w/Engine In Car 1978

    hey I did mine in a '83 2 years ago, and i'm about to do it again.. I posted a full thread on that http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/123168-changing-oil-pan-gasket-on-l28et-with-engine-in-car/ I hope you are luckier than I was.. s
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