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supernova_6969

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About supernova_6969

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  • Birthday 07/02/79

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    Montreal, Canada

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  1. 280zx ignition module with Megasquirt - is it necessary?

    hey chickenman. for the CAS shield, I grounded it straight to the engine block, at the same ground location as the engine. next time I'm in there, i'll ground it to pin 2 on the MSII connector... I'll also make certain I actually make a good connection to the shield; that's what I did... rather quickly.. And thanks for the answer about advantages and disadvantage. it's super complete and very clear.. Just quickly, is there a reason why the BIP-373 (which seem to me like they are mosfetts) couldn't be housed outside the MS box, like in the relay box, if you have one? Could that be used as a home made ignition module, driven by the MS, allowing the battery 12v (or ground, is it?) to go to the coil (or something)? this is a purely theoretical question.... as a side note, I have the modern turbo dizzy with optical CAS and ECU controlled advance, so the module does not have to be reprogrammed.. yay that! Thanks guys!
  2. ignition switch?

    if you'r good with a multimeter and incline to contort, you can actually see where the juice comes from, especially when the key is out.....
  3. 280zx ignition module with Megasquirt - is it necessary?

    Gollum: I'll make sure I check my board; the board I have is a DIYautotune board, pre-built kit. if anything, I'll see if I can get rid of the module; any one less potential faulty part is best! as for the ground testing, I haven't. I did add a ground to the CAS cable's shielding, but it didn't change anything (it wasn't grounded, but I should check to see if I did it properly). I was thinking of re-making a whole new look, as the one I have is too short in some places, and it makes for an ugly, messy engine bay.. doing that would also enable me to make certain everything is well plugged, soldered, crimped and grounded. as for the logs, I did post some topics on the msextra sites, with some logs, and some of the big names there looked at it, but nothing came out of it (although not that many people did look at ithem) Chikenman Thankks for the ressource. where in canada are you? I already have the 83 turbo distributor. the car also was dyno tuned at some point (before more extensive mods were made to the engine) so I expect the components, including the ecu, to be good.. testing the quality of the signal with an oscilloscope is one of my eventual projects.. I'm just not inclined to start because I know very little and just lack confidence. thanks for wtriting guys. some (most) of the stuff both of you said is real interesting... Although, back to my original, question, are there advantages or disadvantages to using a ignition module? other than added parts?
  4. hi guys. I'm still trying to find why my car runs like crap, after 3 years (although I'm doing less and less about it. project fatigue combined with lack-of-a-clue-paralysis). Part of the problem is that I bought someone else's project (complete) "that only needed to be taken to the dyno for a tune," and since I didn't build it myself, I'm not sure what could be wrong in the set up. Issues i'm having is that it runs rough, both at idle and when driving. It'll misfire pretty much all the time, espcially under boost (but not ALWAYS). It's got a megasquirt, but it's essentially untuneable; I'll work on getting some ok AF mixtures, only for the AF ratios to go crazy for a week or two, then to change again... there are a few other weird things, but.. that's not the point of today's topic.... I've been thinking that my stock, original coil might be a little old, maybe not producing enough voltage anymore, or skipping some ignition events... but there is also the ignition module between the Megasquirt and the coil; that could also be faulty, I've seen set ups where the MS2 runs the coil directly... (DIYautotune https://www.diyautotune.com/support/tech/install/nissan-datsun/megasquirt-your-280zx-turbo/)... so really, I know I could modify my MSII to run the coil directly, is there a benefit to having a ignition module? should I even be looking at it? Thanks. Seb
  5. Compare your Dyno sheets HERE

    Oldman.... How come i haven't heard of this on your build topic?? Did i miss it? Anyways thanks for posting. Engine looks strong and steady. I can't wait to see how it evolves. I have to say, i like how the dyno sheet starts the results at 1800rpm. I find most start later, and i want to see more low rpm information.....
  6. Compare your Dyno sheets HERE

    Hi leon. Are you saying that the loss of power should be corrected/compensated for in the dyno chart and thus the numbers should be higher? I might need to brush up on my numbers, but isn't 115 hp and 133lbs/ft at the wheel relatively normal for a stock engine? This is an honest question, not an rebuke... S.
  7. Compare your Dyno sheets HERE

    Hey nismospek. Thanks for sharing indeed. Seems like the engine is at least as good as when it left the factory. Has it even been rebuilt? Performance looks pretty good, especially at 5000+ feet. Thanks again!
  8. hi! quick question, for the ring, why didn't you have it powdercoated? Is it made of plastic? as a side note, since you do so much yourself, you might be interested in cheap powdercoating guns, or even do it yourself kinds (my dad made one, looks about as nice as a a pumpkin someone droped from the 3rd floor, but it works really well, all for about 8$)...
  9. you know... I'm getting sad. a while ago, progress was slow and you were starting a lot of things. now, progress is getting faster and faster, and you're finishing stuff up (really really well, I might add). that makes me sad, that means that in a few months, you'll be dont with the car. now that's all very good and fine for you, but what build blog am I going to follow then! very few do as good work as you and post details like you do. thanks for sharing all of that. it's really appreciated. seb
  10. I have to say that all the work you are doing is incredible. I'm blow away by how much you are investing, both in terms of personal time and money wise. That said, your car is going to be awesome. it's great to see how you're not cutting any corners, even for silly little things. keep up the good work. seb
  11. hi guys! Realized today that not only do I have some water leaking from my t-top seal (right at the top of the a pillar, where the car seal meets the t-top seal), but I have quite the air gad where the window meets the b-pillar.. I'm guessing the seal has sagged and lost elasticity after all these years and isn't pushing on the window anymore. My current budget for the whole car (and there a quite a few things due) is zero dollars. so I was thinking of being creative to fix the seal. I though of maybe injecting something that would "inflate" the seal, ideally some kind of rubber foam of some sort, but that would be messy and inconsistent at best. Then I realized that most weather seals are essentially rubber tubes, and that I could possibly insert a rubber tube within the weatherstrip, which would basically make it behave like new. I checked it out online and found two references wher people had successufully done this with other cars (this is one, the other is a youtube vid doing the same thing ish... https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/body/741222-t-top-car-help.html) I was curious if anyone had any old seals that were cut up so i can get a picture of the cross section. It could tell me if the idea would work on tour seals and what diameter tube I could potentially use, as a bonus.... also, any opinions or suggestions are welcomed
  12. Ignition Problems when Hot

    the later cars have a ignition module before the coil. not certain if your car has it, but thise are known to sometimes act up when they get hot..
  13. s130 l28et z31 engine harness and ecu swap

    Hey. what's your goal in this swap? I'm not familiar with that specific swap, but i see some potential issues right off the bat: -the harness PROBABLY aren't compatible. that means a lot of late night soldering. -the EC you mention is for a N/A car. problem with that (unless it gets flashed, and I'm not certain if that's what you want to) is that the fueling tables won't have any data for boosted areas.. -that ECU is either made for a 3l or a 2l engine. that would mean either too right or WAY to lean all the time... -timing tables are made for a more modern engine, which could mean potentially better designed, which could mean potentially with more advance (better design = less pinging potential). I don't know how much you'd pay for your ecu, but it might be worth looking at aftermarket fully programable ECUs. they'd work once tuned, and plenty of people have done it. Megasquirt (supercheap, can work awesome), wolf, I think makes some, haltech does, and a few others. actually, with all the mods you're planning on making, especially with the new turbo and the injectors, one way or the other, if you want your car to work well, you'll need to put it on a dyno. unless you have the ecu for free and it's easily reprogrammable, i'd just simply look for aftermarket. ask your favorite local dyno shop for their favorites, and pick one.
  14. t-top weather stripping

    hey! no a great solution, but if they seal and if the paint and the body is fine under the seals, i'd just leave them there, tape 'em and paint over them. like I said, not an awesome solution, but it should work for everything but a close inspection, or a full stock restoration. S. ps: you could try to separate the very top of the seal from the body to let some paint go under that first 1/16th of an inch, and then glue the strip back with weatherstripping glue. if you do, make sure to use it properly (I didn't): you need to spread the minimal amount on each side, super extra thin, let it dry, and then mate them. It's like contact cement...
  15. 280zx door striker size and source for door switch cover

    Thanks g-tech. I'll see what i can do for making the striker part with that. Anything less than 10 years old should be pretty acurate... As for ebay, i'd check before, and just did again because i didn't remember the results. The rubber cover can be had for less than 10$ each, which is not so bad. But the strikers are all more than 40-50$.. Good to know!
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