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supernova_6969

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About supernova_6969

  • Rank
    Always Here
  • Birthday 07/02/79

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    Male
  • Location
    Montreal, Canada

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  1. you know... I'm getting sad. a while ago, progress was slow and you were starting a lot of things. now, progress is getting faster and faster, and you're finishing stuff up (really really well, I might add). that makes me sad, that means that in a few months, you'll be dont with the car. now that's all very good and fine for you, but what build blog am I going to follow then! very few do as good work as you and post details like you do. thanks for sharing all of that. it's really appreciated. seb
  2. I have to say that all the work you are doing is incredible. I'm blow away by how much you are investing, both in terms of personal time and money wise. That said, your car is going to be awesome. it's great to see how you're not cutting any corners, even for silly little things. keep up the good work. seb
  3. hi guys! Realized today that not only do I have some water leaking from my t-top seal (right at the top of the a pillar, where the car seal meets the t-top seal), but I have quite the air gad where the window meets the b-pillar.. I'm guessing the seal has sagged and lost elasticity after all these years and isn't pushing on the window anymore. My current budget for the whole car (and there a quite a few things due) is zero dollars. so I was thinking of being creative to fix the seal. I though of maybe injecting something that would "inflate" the seal, ideally some kind of rubber foam of some sort, but that would be messy and inconsistent at best. Then I realized that most weather seals are essentially rubber tubes, and that I could possibly insert a rubber tube within the weatherstrip, which would basically make it behave like new. I checked it out online and found two references wher people had successufully done this with other cars (this is one, the other is a youtube vid doing the same thing ish... https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/body/741222-t-top-car-help.html) I was curious if anyone had any old seals that were cut up so i can get a picture of the cross section. It could tell me if the idea would work on tour seals and what diameter tube I could potentially use, as a bonus.... also, any opinions or suggestions are welcomed
  4. Ignition Problems when Hot

    the later cars have a ignition module before the coil. not certain if your car has it, but thise are known to sometimes act up when they get hot..
  5. s130 l28et z31 engine harness and ecu swap

    Hey. what's your goal in this swap? I'm not familiar with that specific swap, but i see some potential issues right off the bat: -the harness PROBABLY aren't compatible. that means a lot of late night soldering. -the EC you mention is for a N/A car. problem with that (unless it gets flashed, and I'm not certain if that's what you want to) is that the fueling tables won't have any data for boosted areas.. -that ECU is either made for a 3l or a 2l engine. that would mean either too right or WAY to lean all the time... -timing tables are made for a more modern engine, which could mean potentially better designed, which could mean potentially with more advance (better design = less pinging potential). I don't know how much you'd pay for your ecu, but it might be worth looking at aftermarket fully programable ECUs. they'd work once tuned, and plenty of people have done it. Megasquirt (supercheap, can work awesome), wolf, I think makes some, haltech does, and a few others. actually, with all the mods you're planning on making, especially with the new turbo and the injectors, one way or the other, if you want your car to work well, you'll need to put it on a dyno. unless you have the ecu for free and it's easily reprogrammable, i'd just simply look for aftermarket. ask your favorite local dyno shop for their favorites, and pick one.
  6. t-top weather stripping

    hey! no a great solution, but if they seal and if the paint and the body is fine under the seals, i'd just leave them there, tape 'em and paint over them. like I said, not an awesome solution, but it should work for everything but a close inspection, or a full stock restoration. S. ps: you could try to separate the very top of the seal from the body to let some paint go under that first 1/16th of an inch, and then glue the strip back with weatherstripping glue. if you do, make sure to use it properly (I didn't): you need to spread the minimal amount on each side, super extra thin, let it dry, and then mate them. It's like contact cement...
  7. 280zx door striker size and source for door switch cover

    Thanks g-tech. I'll see what i can do for making the striker part with that. Anything less than 10 years old should be pretty acurate... As for ebay, i'd check before, and just did again because i didn't remember the results. The rubber cover can be had for less than 10$ each, which is not so bad. But the strikers are all more than 40-50$.. Good to know!
  8. Compare your Dyno sheets HERE

    madkaw: Wouldn't longer runner steal some of the low end torque? (Or is it the opposite?) As for the bigger plenum, what are the advantages? Is it because it's simply a bigger container from which the pistons can "suck" from or are there other advantages? Wouldn't having a efficient (i.e. less restriction) pre-plenum system make up for that? Got a build thread or some photos of what you are building?
  9. Hi! The doors on my 280zx are rattling (partly cause the striker is worn) and the rubber cover/ bumper on the drivers side door switch is worn through, which makes the metal striker hit the door AND makes the door light turn on all the time (its great when the car thinks your door is opened overnight. Does wonder to battery charge) Two questions: 1. Can anyone tell me the original, brand new diameter for the plastic part of the door striker? I'll try to 3d print a replacement and see if that can work (possibly with a rubber core.. I'll post something somewhere if it works) 2. Can anyone tell me of a good place to buy the rubber cover for the door switches? Looking for price as a primary criteria... Thanks! Seb
  10. Compare your Dyno sheets HERE

    Hey Guys. any new trips to the dyno, anyone? s.
  11. HybridZ may be shutting down.

    repost. sorry
  12. HybridZ may be shutting down.

    Hi! can't afford much more, but I gave 20$.. Also, i'll click on the adds more.. good luck! Seb
  13. Can you take off the oil pump without first drainning the oil?

    Thanks dexter.... I appreciate de extra info, i would never have thought of it...
  14. I'm thinking since the pump is higher then the oil level in the pan, it should not start to flow from there but i'm not certain. Any one ever tried?
  15. Twin cam head for the L6 from Derek at Datsunworks

    again, hijacking. about that awesome sound. I have a turbo car, and i'm thinking there is no way, even if I change the headers and the turbo-back to the same as yours or so, that I can achieve a similar sound because of the turbo acts as a kind of muffler.... is that right or am I mistaken? I don't know much, it's my first experience with turbos...
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