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HybridZ

MY260Z

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About MY260Z

  • Birthday 06/28/1956

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  • MSN
    sethmarx@msn.com

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Seffner, Fl

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  1. I used the 18 circuit kit. It was very well laid out. I wanted to reuse existing column switches, which took some engineering. Later plan to change out column with aftermarket tilt and relocate switches. Have to do something with the wipers too. Painless has tech support that I utilized a few times. Some more experienced members have wired from scatch, but I'm happy with their product. Good luck.
  2. I use the H4 kit from Too Intense. I took the headlight unit out of the fender, put it on a drill press and cut a 3" hole out of the back. That way I can replace the bulb easier. The plastic flap on the inner fender keeps the mud out. While I was at it I replaced the aligning screws and plastic inserts. They are a lot brighter than stock.
  3. I did mine while it was on a home made rotiserrie. That way it doesn't drip everywhere. I did the interior as well. The old stuff broke off in good size pieces. For the rest, I used my angle grinder with a wire wheel.
  4. MY260Z

    Side Pipes

    True Dan the frame rails were a concern, but I'm not lowering the car and there seems to be enough clearance. Steve if you're interested I took pics along the way. I can send 4x6's or a cd. PM me with your snail mail. I just painted it this past week. I won't quit my day job. I'll try to post the pics I took today.
  5. MY260Z

    Side Pipes

    Actually thanks Matt. I've been meaning to get all my pics posted as well as the story line. They are Dynomax from Summit, mounted in a 4" piece of exhaust tubing welded into the rocker. I took pics of the work in progress. Had to customize the fender to make it removable. Did the same at the turn-out opening in case I ever need to replace the muffler. Sounds good, fired it up for first time Tuesday no rattling. I fashioned some isolaters from the kit to keep everything centered in the tube. Now to get the rest finished. Can't wait to go driving down the Blvd. Seth
  6. Now thats wild. I got 26. If were only that easy.
  7. I definately would get some shirts and hats this time. I missed out last time.
  8. I think he means the sign above the Caddy. House of ...
  9. I'm using Auto Meter guages and used their sender. I modified it and used the Z's flange and shortened the unit, bent the rod to fit and adjusted it to be just above the bottom of the tank and it sweeps to the top. I have pics if you're interested.
  10. Bill, I used the old pods as you are but used a 90 degree adapter for the oil pressure line to get around the padded mounting strap.
  11. I found mine at Kragen Auto Parts, I think Auto Zone has them. Mine were $10 each
  12. Phil, I fabbed the JTR latch also it works fine and has a removable portion. My T5 shifter sits about middle of the hole in the tunnel, and a bit to the left. I broke down and bought the trans bracket from JTR so I could get it to line up. You should be able to move it an inch forward.
  13. I'm using a Painless harness and trying to use the old combo switch. So I trace out the wires from the switch. Mine is a 260 so it may be slightly different. I'm pretty sure the power goes to the light switch from the alt or 'shunt' (large white/red)When the lights are turned on power goes to the fuse box to fuse the 2 head lights. From there it goes to the lights, then comes back to the dimmer switch and is grounded to complete the circuit by a large black wire. You could have a bad ground or the combo switch(on the right side of column) American cars ground the lights at the head light so its confusing. You might try getting a Hayne's manual and trace out the connections to get all the possible faults. Have fun
  14. Sorry, the 18 circuit Painless harness. I got rid all the Jap wire. Most radios have a wire for operating the antenna, usually its yellow. You have a power wire to do the work but this other wire I think sends the signal.?? Mine isn't ready for a battery yet, so I'm hoping it works. A Haynes manual has a good diagram you need a magnifier to read it. You can trace it back to see how the original wiring is suppose to work. Hope you not more confused now.
  15. I still had my old Z check valve with its bracket. I'm hoping it will work with my Holley/SBC combo. It's an inline style, if that will work you can probably get it from VB or Nissan
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