gmac708

Nice job Lee. I was thinking a brace across the back to hold the two aft lower control arms together. The Arizona Z setup has a billet bracket that tie the two together. With all the torque your producing, those two must be trying to pulling themselves apart. A simple strap across the bottom, picking up the two bolts on either side would really box everything together. Your pinion mount is making my brain think of way to correct an alignment issue I have with my car. Good luck with the test drive! Gord

I also removed the original frame rails. I also replaced the floors. See the link below for some pictures of what I did. You should be OK to just add the BDFR right over top of originals. I probably went overkill...I tend to do that. http://forums.nicoclub.com/z-floor-pan-replacement-t430045.html I think you are OK as far as not bending the structure when removing the floors and rails. Gord

I also bought an SR20 from Toronto JDM. It was a few years back, but it was in very good shape. They seemed to be professional about the whole deal. I see they also sell Rb's.

I used -12 bungs. I think the -12 is a little overkill.

PM'd you Had great success with Raw Brokerage.

I'm still here Probably not getting rid of or leaving the Z world, but I am in the market for my next project.

That sucks! Hopefully not damaged too bad.

Well...It was fun while it lasted. I really enjoyed your postings and it was fun to watch you build. Heres to you sir *clink* cheers. I Hope you get some good money out of her. Gord

Looking real good. Good luck with the debt thing.

I actually tried to get 245/45 and they were unavailable in the Michelin PS2s. I have the 245/50s and they fit perfect. I'm sure you can go either way. gord

Hey guys... I think if I had a bit more time to get some R compound tires, I would have done a little better. Steve Doherty (Nissan Driver) could lock up wheels at ant time so I think the "lack of brakes" may being overplayed.That 370 was a monster and stopped on a dime. Just plane hard to beat. We still had a bunch of fun out there in Vegas. And I have a big thanks to everybody over here on Hybrid Z to thanks for my inspiration. I can't tell you how many hours I spent pouring over the articles on this web site. Gord

I can't hear anything. Can you hear a knock? Think positive. This will be minor (please be minor)....

I might as well throw a few pictures of my 240Z in here.

Me too. The carbonetics needs to get hot. It's a blast at the race track hammering it really hard all day. Marsh mellow soft when pussy footing around town, less drama at the lights. Kind of a pain in the butt when staging for 1/4 mile. Most slippage from 3rd to 4th for me. About 100MPH. I'm only 360HP. I can't imagine what you are doing at your HP.

Hope to see some video's of the car running soon. It is turning out pretty awesome. Great Job! Gord

The baddogs need to be welded to originals forward of the firewalls anyway. The only parts you would be removing would be aft of the firewall and those sections run back to the seat mounts only. If everything is in good shape, I would leave them alone. It would not be that much of a weight savings for the work involved. Gord

Aeromotive 15 gallon stealth tank with A1000 fuel pump. It is a 1970 240Z first gen (series 1).

I have the newer red ones, I had them powder coated. Custom ordered I did some digging around and found a reciept for the hoses. It looks like I ordered them from atpturbom.com but it looks like they no longer support the custom ordered hoses. I just measured up the lines and ordered what I felt would work.

I had the same problem with the McKinney mounts. I ended up cutting the return fitting that screws into the block a little shorter (also added the bead). I also cut the drain tube on the turbo and welded in the new position as well. The oil should drain with your setup no problem. It's just crankcase pressure on the return line.

That is one hell-of-a-good looking Z ya got there Stony. You did a fantastic job. Are you planning any stripes or flames....skulls....evil demon fire breathing dragons of death....sorry. I'll wait for updates.

Sure. That's what it is designed to do. The vacuum assists your foot by pulling the piston in master cylinder. The check valve prevents boost from coming inside chamber and acting against your foot pressure. There should only be vacuum going to brake master. Boost=bad, Vacuum=good. Even the power brakes work without the vacuum, a little scary at first when you discover the loss, but they do work. or you could... Get regular or non-"power brake" master cylinders.

I agree with dgz. Stock RB has vacuum boost coming off back side of airchamber which is connected to balance tube. Anything upstream of TB/ITB has boost/ambient. Downstream of TB or ITB has vacuum when throttle lifted or "on speed". WOT would of course be boosted as well, but then WTF would you need brakes for at WOT. I see from your build (awesome by the way) You have single TB and you should be able to hook up check valve to your intake.

wow... Nice job on the tank. I love It!

Very nice job. BTW What is this electrical component???

I did that. It was the only way I could figure out how to make it work.