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HybridZ

JTCN

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    United States, Louisiana, Cottonport
  1. Thanks man. I'm just going to deal with the gap and check it everytime I have my car jacked up. I have a bigger problem though. The new bolt holes don't line up with my diff flange. The new DS bolt pattern has slightly more space between the bolt holes then my old one, so I can get 2 bolts in on the same side but I can't get the other 2 bolts in, because the DS holes and diff holes don't line up. So we called the place I bought the driveshaft and they're claiming that it doesn't make sense, and that for a '75 280Z coupe the driveshaft should fit. Also the bolt holes themselves are larger than on the old DS. I can wiggle the bolts around if I slide them in. Personally, I think they might've just done a shitty job drilling the holes. I don't see why datsun would change the distance between the holes for no reason. Maybe a Z expert can chime in on that. So now I need to find out what year diff I have I guess? Did certain years of S30 differentials have different bolt patterns on the flange? It's possible my diff and driveshaft were switched out at some point in it's life, but I don't know what year it was switched with. Also the new driveshaft is half an inch shorter than my old one, but it doesn't make much of a difference. I'll go take measurements of my old DS bolt pattern to help find out what kind of diff this is. Then I'll edit them in this post. Edit: I measured the distance between the bolts diagnolly from the center of the holes and got 2.75". I also found this pic of differential flanges, mine is exactly like the left one. While I was doing this my dad got a call from the driveshaft shop and they said they found a flange with the same pattern as mine, and are going to custom make me one today to fit my diff flange. So hopefully everything works out and we don't have to do this a second time. Edit2: I just found out that I might have an R200 diff. I found comparison pictures between an R180 and an R200 and the cover on mine looks just like the R200. So that explains why the driveshaft shop had such trouble. Also, I don't think it's an LSD. With the car jacked up if I spin one wheel the other wheel turns the opposite way. Which R200s are LSD and which aren't?
  2. Somehow my driveshaft got here unbelievably fast. Seriously only took 1 day and it's here now. So I just removed my old driveshaft and found a problem. My old DS has a dust cover over the slip yolk, my new DS doesn't. Do I need a dust cover? I've been trying to remove the cover from my old DS by hammering at the seam with a flathead and hammer trying to seperate it from the DS. I see that a lot of 280z driveshafts being sold online don't have dust covers. Is that because they're not needed or because they assume you'll just use the cover from your old DS? I need to know if I need a dust cover on my driveshaft before I install it tonight. I definitely don't want to have to do this twice. Here's a pic of the driveshafts.
  3. Yep, and I had to buy a whole new driveshaft today. Driveshaft shop near me quoted $200 for each end of the driveshaft. Then I would have to switch out the differential flange to mate up with the new yoke they weld. Which is ridiculous considering the new one I bought is like $300. Oh well at least I'll have my Z driving again and not wreck my driveline in the process.
  4. Uhh... bad news. I got under the car while I had it still in the air. I found the problem. Let's just say my driveshaft definitely DOESN'T feel tight and I'm a big dumbass. The driveshaft ujoint on the diff side is severely messed up. There's a lot of play on one of the cups when you wiggle the shaft. I recorded it, here's the video. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bIL4z48Ayjo So when I'm going down the road the driveshaft starts spinning up and this ujoint slaps and rattles the driveshaft the whole time. I don't want to drop $300 on a new driveshaft. So I'm going to call around and try to find a shop nearby that can machine in new ujoints and balance the driveshaft. Hopefully for cheaper. Thanks to all you guys for the help. I wish I would've checked the driveshaft closer and noticed before I ripped out my halfshaft lol.
  5. I ripped out my driver's side halfshaft today to check the ujoints. They feel totally fine, no play at all and felt firm on the hub side and the diff side. There was a lot of grease buildup around the ujoint on the diff side. I don't know if it's from the ujoint itself or the diff though. I don't think I'm going to take out the passenger side halfshaft because it feels just as tight as the drivers side. Honestly I'm pretty bummed it wasn't that simple. Now I guess I'm going to wait until I go to the trans shop and see what they think instead of messing with this thing anymore. If they say there's a problem with the diff after it was rebuilt not even a year ago I think I'm gonna scream, lol I'll probably get all my wheels balanced too. Yeah it's not enough play in the diff to worry about. I felt it again today and I heavily exaggerated how much play it really was. Trust me there's no more play in the wheel lol, I replaced the bad stud. Wheel is now firmly attached to the axle and won't be flying off soon. So if it's not the halfshafts, what is the problem? I guess the bushings are the next thing I would worry about. I don't think it's my driveshaft but I'll find out at the shop.
  6. I just found a video of a Z that's making a noise VERY similar to mine. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Dz84sFQBA1c It's similar in the way that it's some kind of rattling/knocking noise in the rear end. In the video his is a lot louder than mine and more pronounced. The video description says it's from one of the halfshafts, and that it was a bad ujoint. I'm going to take my car to the transmission shop this week and ask them to check out the halfshafts. I think this is my problem.
  7. It really wasn't that loose. It was just a small amount of wiggle that made me concerned. My wheels are a set of Appliance mesh wheels, I think they're aluminum. The lug nuts are the proper style for the wheels, they fit fine. I've replaced probably half the wheel studs on this car already too. I also just discovered something. I was under my car checking the halfshafts bolts were tight and I felt play in the halfshaft. It's a small amount but it's there. It's a lot like this video (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2rNGmNj_-is) but to a lesser degree. It's not loose bolts because I can see the halfshaft move with the flanges, it's literally pushing about a quarter of an inch of the halfshaft into the differential. It can move 1/4" in or out of the diff. Is this normal?
  8. I'm going to ignore the "brake dragging" issue because it honestly isn't that bad and I read that S30s have much tighter brakes than normal cars. I tightened the lug nuts on the wheel as much as I could and there's no more play in the wheel; I also had to replace a stud, I think the bad stud wouldn't let the lug nut tighten all the way down and causing the play. All good now though. I'm just going to focus on the vibration. I'd love to just rip all of the rear end out and replace the bushings but unfortunately I don't have a torch or a press to get the bushings out. Even if the bushings aren't the problem I'm sure they need to be replaced. What tools did you guys need to burn out your bushings and press in new ones? I can pick up a propane torch no problem, but I can't get a press.
  9. I took the brake drum off today and took a look. Nothing is out of the ordinary except my brake shoes were really holding on to the drum. After removing the drum I tried spinning the hub to see if there's any catching/dragging, and there was nothing. Wasn't too hard to spin either. I also tried wiggling and pulling on the hub and felt no play at all this time. Maybe I didn't have enough leverage to really pull it though. Slapped the drum on and the dragging was there again. So I don't think I have an issue with my wheel bearing, it's just the brake shoes rubbing inside the drum brake. What's weird to me though is that it only drags when you spin it to certain spots. Could the drum be warped? Next I have to try adjusting the brake shoes and see where that gets me. edit: I probably have my terminology wrong, when I say "hub" I'm referring to the end of the axle with the studs in it.
  10. I just got back inside from working under the car for a while. I didn't discover much except that I think my rear passenger side wheel is severely unbalanced. I had the rear jacked up and in the air and there's a little bit of play when shaking the wheel. About a month ago I had to replace the tire on this wheel because it literally wore down to the cords, the other tire was just fine and they were the same brand and put on at the same time. I also felt what I think is a brake shoe dragging inside my wheel hub when spinning the wheel, it doesn't spin freely like the other rear wheel. Had my dad come and see what he thought and he's convinced the vibration is from the unbalanced wheel. I'm going to take it to get balanced soon, I'm not sure if this is what causes the severe shaking in my car but it'll help.
  11. Thanks for the help. I couldn't get under my car and try anything yet today though, but tomorrow I'll try everything I can. Also just realized I think I posted in the wrong forum. Anyway I can move this to the Drivetrain section?
  12. So I'm experiencing a bad vibration when I apply throttle in gear. It's mostly noticeable in 3rd gear and higher, but if I really push it in 1st-2nd gear it'll vibrate. It doesn't matter how much I push the gas pedal, any throttle input at all will cause vibration in 3rd gear and up. It sounds and feels like it's coming from the rear end. If I let off the throttle I can hear a hum or a winding noise. There is NO vibration with clutch in or in neutral, only in gear. At any speed going down the road if I push the clutch in the vibration stops immediately. I had my diff rebuilt not even a year ago at a transmission shop when my diff was making a loud humming noise constantly, so there shouldn't be an issue with it. My first thought was the driveshaft ujoints, but after getting under the car and checking the play it doesn't seem to be that bad. I'll have to take it the trans shop to be sure. I took a look at the engine mounts, but only in neutral and revving. There was slight shifting but it seemed normal. I'm going to check the mounts at load tomorrow and check the trans mounts too. Also checked the driveshaft bolts and they were very tight. No flange to flange play. Halfshafts too. I don't know when exactly this started happening, so I can't pinpoint what I did that started the vibration. Just went down the road one day and felt the shaking. I don't drive the car very hard, never clutch dumping or launching it. Anyone else have this issue before? What fixed it for you? If any of you need more info I'll provide it. I'm going to take it down to the transmission shop soon to see what they think, in the meantime I'd love for y'all to suggests some tests for me to do to narrow down the issue. Thanks
  13. Hey guys it's time for an update. My brake pads came in today and I dove right into installing them. I replaced the pads, got the wheels back on and went for a 40 min drive. I didn't hear a single peep out of the brakes. None! It was great. I tried bedding the pads by doing the 35 mph stops to 60 mph stops etc. So I'm pretty excited to finally have this done and save my ears a little. I don't know if it's the new pads or the shims on the back that stopped the noise but I definitely recommend them. Here's a link to the pads: http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=5229747&cc=1209204 Over the next few days if I hear the noise come back again I'll update this thread and let y'all know. Thanks for the help guys
  14. Alright I just ordered a set of Beck-Arnley brake pads off rockauto. I only bought brake pads, no rotors. When my pads get here I'll try them with the shims that came with them. If it still makes noise I'll either replace my rotors or buy those oem shims. I wasn't aware I had to bed pads. I just looked up a guide about it so when the pads get here I'll definitely do that. Thanks
  15. Thanks, I think I'll go the same route as you. Really don't wanna replace my rotors but they look like they really need it. I already managed to bust off the rotor from the hub on my driver's side when I did the studs, so hopefully the passenger side will go with no issue.
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