Jump to content
HybridZ

JTCN

Members
  • Content count

    40
  • Donations

    0.00 USD 
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Feedback

    0%

Community Reputation

0 Neutral

About JTCN

  • Rank
    Moving Up

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Not Telling
  • Location
    United States, Louisiana, Cottonport
  1. Hey guys it's time for an update. My brake pads came in today and I dove right into installing them. I replaced the pads, got the wheels back on and went for a 40 min drive. I didn't hear a single peep out of the brakes. None! It was great. I tried bedding the pads by doing the 35 mph stops to 60 mph stops etc. So I'm pretty excited to finally have this done and save my ears a little. I don't know if it's the new pads or the shims on the back that stopped the noise but I definitely recommend them. Here's a link to the pads: http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=5229747&cc=1209204 Over the next few days if I hear the noise come back again I'll update this thread and let y'all know. Thanks for the help guys
  2. Alright I just ordered a set of Beck-Arnley brake pads off rockauto. I only bought brake pads, no rotors. When my pads get here I'll try them with the shims that came with them. If it still makes noise I'll either replace my rotors or buy those oem shims. I wasn't aware I had to bed pads. I just looked up a guide about it so when the pads get here I'll definitely do that. Thanks
  3. Thanks, I think I'll go the same route as you. Really don't wanna replace my rotors but they look like they really need it. I already managed to bust off the rotor from the hub on my driver's side when I did the studs, so hopefully the passenger side will go with no issue.
  4. Thanks for the link. Looks like those Beck-Arnley pads already come with shims on the back. Would those be good enough to use instead of having to order the OEM shims?
  5. Okay so I could order 2 sets of these shims and just break off the little tabs on 1 set to use for the "LH" side. I guess I might as well order new pads. But I noticed that thezstore has the OEM brake pads for $70 compared to something like this (http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/classic21o02/24-4960) which is $40. Is it really more worth it to go for the OEM?
  6. Thanks for the help. Had no idea a little thing like a shim might be the problem. I guess I'm going to order a set of those shims and try them out. Also last time I pulled the pads I took a razor and tried scraping most of the goop off the back of the pads. Should I order some anti-squeal stuff and reapply? Edit: Just noticed thezstore doesn't have the "LH" shims in stock. Anywhere else I could get some?
  7. If you're referring to something like this (http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/24-5450) then no. When I pulled off my pads they didn't have shims on the back, just a layer of anti-squeal paste or something right on the pad. No performance change that I could really tell.
  8. I've probably pulled my front wheels off 5 times messing with these brakes and now I need to ask for advice. The car is a '75 280z, all stock brake components except for maybe the pads. They're the same ones I bought with the car 1 and a half years ago. Every time I brake I get this HORRIBLY loud squeak/squeal/grind noise coming from both the front wheels. The noise changes depending on how hard I brake, sometimes if I brake really hard it doesn't squeal at all except maybe a little noise. The loudest noises come from light braking. All of my front brake pads have plenty of meat left on them. They honestly look new there's so much. Every time I've checked the pads and rotors they've been glazed. So I pull off the pads and sand them pretty good with rough sandpaper and do the same with the rotors. After I sanded the pads and rotors on both sides and start driving, it's great. Barely a peep out of them for the first drive. But the next day/couple days later they start progressively making the horrible noise again, and they glaze again. Also I found that if I spin my rotor with the pads and caliper on, I hear kind of a light scraping noise. It only happens on some spots on the rotor, rest is silent. I'm so over dealing with this I think it's time to just buy new rotors and brake pads. Maybe even do the toyota 4x4 caliper swap. But I don't want to spend money on it considering I believe both the rotors and pads have good life on them. I just replaced all studs on my drivers side front wheel and repacked the wheel bearings too, so I don't wanna pull off that rotor again. What do you guys think? Should I just bite the bullet and replace my brakes? Anyone else have similar trouble? My worst nightmare is replacing the rotors and pads to find out it still makes noise. I just want this embarrassing noise gone. Thanks
  9. GOOD NEWS EVERYONE! I started the car just a minute ago and checked voltage at some areas and after I finished I decided to leave it for a few minutes for it to warm up. After I got back it was fully warmed up and I tried revving it to 4K rpm and I saw the ammeter jump up!!! I jumped out the car and checked the battery its getting 13.5v consistently at idle! Even with a bunch of accessories on! I have no idea why it finally started charging. I guess it needed a jump start. I tried revving it up before but this time it decided to work. Thank y'all for helpin!
  10. Someone in another forum showed me a thread on testing IR alternators and I think I'll try that next. Here's the link: http://community.ratsun.net/topic/65156-testing-an-internally-regulated-alternator/ But first I'll need a test light. In the meantime I'll go check the ground on the case and do voltage tests with the car running Edit: By the way, I read from a guy that has the same year and build date as me that you can't trust the wire diagrams. He said datsun switched up their wiring colors and the placement of which wires constantly and that I should check and verify what each wire does before splicing. I was planning on doing that but I figured if I'm getting the correct voltage with key off and key on, wouldn't that mean my wiring is fine?
  11. I charged my battery up fully and I started getting 12v at the "L" connection. But when I ran the car it still didn't charge the battery.
  12. I haven't updated this thread but here is whats happened so far. Im gonna send this alternator back to the seller and while I was waiting I went ahead and ordered one from autozone. I got the new alternator (still a remanufactured one) and installed it. It's doing the same shit as the other alternator. 11.8v output from it. But I discovered something after doing more tests with the voltmeter. KEY OFF: 12.4v at car battery 12.4v at top of "T" connector. (also known as "Sense" connection) 0v at bottom of "T" connector. (also known as "Lamp" connection) 12.4v at alternator BAT terminal. KEY ON: 12.2v at battery 12.2v at top of "T" connector ("S" connection) 11.7v at bottom of "T" connector ("L" connection) 12.2 at alternator BAT terminal. So in the swap guide I mentioned it says this: "1. An "L" connection which goes to a "switched" 12V supply. By this I mean a 12V source that is active only when the ignition switch is in the ON position. I use the mnemonic "L" for "lamp", the alternator warning lamp (if used) is in series with this connection. This terminal also supplies the "excitation" current to the alternator field winding at engine turn on, allowing the alternator to begin producing voltage as the engine is ramping up to idle speed. Once the alternator rotor is turning fast enough, it generates it's own supply for the field winding and the current in the "L" connection stops flowing. The warning lamp (if used) goes out." So when the key is on, the "L" connection gets 12 volts, which gets the alternator to charge. My connection is only getting 11.7v. Could that be why it's not charging? I have the car battery on a charger right now in case it's not charged enough to supply the right voltage to this connection. But everything else is getting 12.2v when the key is on... What's the first place I should look to find out why it isn't getting 12v?
  13. Boxed up the alternator and getting ready to exchange it for another.
  14. Something else I wanted to bring up. What is the possibility of this just being a bad alternator? I took it to autozone to get tested and it passed but I'm not sure if I can really trust that right now. When I switched from my old alternator+voltage regulator the only thing I did was splice the harness together the right way and hook up this new alternator. Should I just send this thing back and try another? I'm conflicted because it passed the autozone tests.
  15. Alright sorry I stayed at a friend's house last night and didn't get to try anything. Just tested with the car running, alternator is only charging 11.8v. (I put + on BAT and - on negative battery) Pulled the T connector and nothing changed. I wanted to compile a bunch of tests and suggestions to try out while I wasn't home, only had time to do half of your suggestions, my bad. I'll do that. Thanks anyway You're absolutely right I'm not experienced in electrics lmao. My dad talked to an electrician friend and he explained it. Pretty embarrassing lol Just tested with the key on, Top of the T was getting 12.4 and the bottom was getting 11.8 Key off the top of the T was getting 12.4, bottom was getting 0 Yeah funny thing, I was trying to test the bottom of the T plug and I had to seriously get the probe in there to get a reading. I've already sprayed contact cleaner on the T plug yesterday but maybe it wasn't enough. And don't worry I think I'm testing voltage the right way now lol... So we're still where we left off, alternator isn't charging (or at least not charging enough). I guess I'm going to charge my battery and look into what else to try. Edit: I also soldered all my connections this time.
×