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hansonsaid

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  1. i'm in process on this swap right now, and have a question: my nissan/hitachi pulley is badly worn, and i'd like to use a new v-belt pulley on the cs144. there are plenty of 2" diameter options, but should i be using a 3/8" or 5/8" WIDTH pulley? it's hard to measure based on my stock nissan pulley, and the brand new, nissan oem belt is almost exactly 1/2" wide. any experience/opinions?
  2. i see now that there is a difference between the early and later r180 diff stubs. NewZed you are exactly right, i need bolt in axle flanges from the early r180 to replace the bolt in half shafts my 78 has. my reference to the automatic-spec of my car was to make sure everyone understood what i was working with, i didn't want to send HybridZ on a wild goose chase, and i'm happy to have shown the semi-shallow depth of my knowledge since it led to me easily learning something new(difference in spec of early vs late r180). the ermish kit is exactly as pictured on the slideshow of that link, it's very similar to the driveshaftshop kit and seems to be 100% bolt in with very clear instructions included(unlike reports of the dss kit). my particular issue with fitment was my lack of knowledge of the differences between the early and late r180 diff stubs. when i have all the parts necessary i'll make some comments on the install and driving experience of the ermish kit, right now all i can say is troy ermish has fast communication and shipping of what seems to be a solid product. thanks for the help NewZed, much appreciated!
  3. i'm a longtime reader and thankfully every question i've had thus far has already been asked and answered on this site. i've struggled to find anything definitive on this topic, however. after refreshing all the suspension on my 1978 automatic 280z i've been left with a vibration during acceleration over 40mph. all my work has been quadruple-checked my myself and my brother(lemans crew chief) and the only part that has been affected but not changed are the halfshafts. the car was lowered less than two inches so i didn't expect cv axles to be a necessary upgrade, but every 40 y/o car is a unique case and all the symptoms point to binding u-joints. even if it doesn't solve the vibration, i ordered the kit made by ermish racing(after double checking that it would be compatible with my r180 diff) and now that it has arrived i find my diff to be different from any photos i've seen. the diff stubs/side axles resemble the slip yoke at the back of a transmission, not the typical flanged style i've seen in everyone else's photos. i know there's not a lot of commonly available info out there regarding the differences of the automatic driveline, but i haven't found a single reference to this particular difference. can anyone guide me to which particular diff side/stub axles will fit in my particular diff? oem or aftermarket options are both fine, my goal is to utilize the cv kit i now own without going so far as installing a new differential. thanks!
  4. my 280z was already upgraded with the honda blower, but the larger kia blower is significantly better at moving air. if anyone is considering an upgrade from stock i highly suggest going straight to the kia unit, it's a better fan at a more affordable price(i picked one up on ebay brand new for half the cost of a used honda one).
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