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About Jboogsthethug

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    Can Charge Rent
  • Birthday 05/26/1992

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    Riverton, Utah

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  1. Jboogsthethug

    HybridZ PNW Auto-x Day

    Zetsaz we need to organize something in Utah when you're in the state again!
  2. OK so I pulled the tranny to get a better look, I'm not seeing any missing pins on the outside, do I need to take the cover off to get to the inside or something? Am I just missing something obvious? is it possible that the pin needs to be pulled out, then the shifter repositioned, then reinstall the pin? IMG_0164.MOV
  3. Jboogsthethug

    A musician's therapist (The $300 Z)

    Dang man!! That's awesome! As soon as I saw it I knew it was familiar, I bought a few parts from him as well! That's rad you've got yourself a solid shell to work on! And those Zs below are dang clean! That shave is so dang perfect, I really don't know how they got it so clean. I've shaved and tucked mine and it doesn;t look nearly as good! either way, glad to see you're on the road towards progress again!
  4. No Worries man! I wasn;t sure if you'd need a specific pin but if what NewZed is saying is correct then I'll be all set! Thanks a bunch dude! I had read online somewhere it had to be a specific pin, but I may have been reading about a different part. I'll keep you upadted on my findings when I get around to tearing the tranny out again, or at least dropping it to work on under the car if I can. Thanks for all your help good sir! I appreciate it!
  5. Ok this is definitely narrowing it down! Thank you so much for the info. Is this what you're talking about? assuming that's what you mean, I'll have to look into that and see if I can find that particular piece online. if not, I suppose I'll buy a new transmission! I'll keep you updated.
  6. Now, on your transmission does your shifter slide in and out, like on the video in the first link I posted? Or does yours stay in place? Mine is coming out like a piston and I've wondered if it is indeed a pin missing that is supposed to stop that from backing out like it is, which would make sense why I can't even touch the 2nd, 4th, and reverse gears. I can;t even grind the gears, it's not engaging at all when I am able to shift into the area they're supposed to be. This piece, I've attached the picture showing the place where it slides in and out inside the circle, the arrows demonstrate it's movement.
  7. I'll double check the clip btu If I remember correctly it is the right pin. and (Ignore the caps lock haha) I ACTUALLY just REPLACED THE BUSING TO MAKE SURE THAT WASN'T IT EITHER, SO NO GO THERE. BUT THERE IS DEFINITELY A TON OF WIGGLE ROOM THAT HE talks about in the link you posted, my shifter will go left to right the entire width of the shifter hole. At least that's how it was before I changed the busing, it's a little less now but still a lot. That once again points it to that shifter limiter thing. I'll double check that and if that isn't the case I'll look into the fork. Bummer haha!
  8. So it is sticking at any time, but it seems if I let it sit for a bit with it stuck in 3rd, turned off, then go to shift a few hours later, it will shift out easily. Not sure exactly what's going on. The clutch seems fine, I expected it to be harder to push but it is engaging the slave cylinder, and I am having no problems starting in gear with the clutch engaged. and Interesting. I did drain it when i removed the engine/tranny, then let it sit for 2 years basically with no new oil in it. That could be the case?
  9. Hi all, So I just fired up my 71 after working on the car for the past few years. The engine and tranny sat during all that time, but previous to that, the tranny had no problems at all. after taking it for a test spin, I've realized all the gears on the bottom of the shifter (2nd, 4th, and reverse) Are impossible to get into, and though I can shift into 1st, once I shift into 3rd it usually gets stuck in that gear. After some internet digging I've found a case of what sounds to be the same issue ( ) though his final update isn't a whole lot of help "Well, I eventually took it to a guy who knows a lot more about transmissions, who took it out the car and found it was some pin or something attached to an arm that broke. Ended up being really minor, thankfully. Car is back on the road " After looking at the fsm, page 8 (attached), I'm assuming one of the pins on the diagram the FSM owner circled is the pin he is referring to, though I'm not sure. My other guess is the return spring plug (#5 on the diagram) though that is a complete guess based off of what I've read online. I'm curious if anyone has experienced this and would know of the likely culprit. Like I say, it was 100% when I removed it, and isn't fine now. I've bled the clutch and the slave is working as it is supposed to as far as I can tell. Any help is appreciated, thank you! TM Transmission.pdf
  10. perfect, I'll do that. thanks for the input!
  11. That was a great quote! Thanks for the education mate, that's what I wanted to hear!
  12. well yes, I am more so curious if you're shooting to get as close to a 50/50 braking ratio as possible or is there a more preferred ratio?
  13. So I've looked into this but from what I can tell none of the values you can change actually affect the size of the Masters. It seems to be more of a tool that you would input your own master size (or a master size of what you want to test) to then find a pre-determined braking torque percent balance (at the end of step 3, after inputting the rest of the data). If I input my data in steps 1 -3 (some of the data being my best guess, I admit), then go d own to step 3 and begin testing various sizes of MC on front and back, you can achieve the desired ratio. Based off of my crazy exact calculations (that is sarcasm), my desired MCs would be 1 inch in front and .8125 in the rear for a very close to 50/50 balance (which is also just an assumption I'm making based off of limited knowledge). Am I correct in how this would work, and the guesses at the desired ratio? I will now just sit here and brace myself for some learnin!
  14. Yeah I know those are all important factors, but I'm in the same boat as you were when this thread was started where I can spend the amount to fix my system or just do the upgrades I want to do in the future, so I'm potentially opting towards this if the MC rebuild kit from ZCAR doesn't fit my 71 (it's listed as a 72 and up, and they weren't positive on the fitment either, so who knows). I figure my setup will be pretty similar to yours, not exactly the same but it will give me a basis in my head of where to start. Either way, thank you for the info! You are the man!