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cgsheen last won the day on December 4 2016

cgsheen had the most liked content!

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About cgsheen

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  • Birthday 10/07/1951

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  1. cgsheen

    Blower Motor Upgrade (Kia Sportage)

    The stock plug on the '74-'76 fits the Kia blower without modification. (I'm assuming the '77-'78 are the same but I don't know for certain) . It has the same "T" configuration 2-pin plug and polarity is correct. Also, there is no way the Kia blower we're talking about will fit right in the stock '74-'76 blower housing. The squirrel cage is slightly larger than the stock opening. The opening needs to be trimmed to get the squirrel cage in.
  2. cgsheen

    Turn Signals - Key Off?

    Flashers do, turn signals do not.
  3. That's what I do. Kinda tough to do alone - get some help. Lube helps too.
  4. You have the wrong collar for your clutch package. If it were correct, the fork position would be pushing the slave cylinder push rod all the way back in (like you're showing you can do with your fingers in the video) - or nearly so. You need a longer collar for your throw out bearing. NewZed hit the nail on the head - the collar needs to be correct for the clutch package (pressure plate height (or thickness))
  5. That spindle pin tool is probably NOT going to help in this situation. I'm with Jester, use a "sawzall" (recriprocating saw - $20 at Harbor Freight if you don't have one) and cut the spindle pin in two places between the control arm and the hub. Then you can figure out a way to get what's left of the spindle out of the hub section. Much easier to press, beat, or air hammer out without the control arm in the way. You're going to burn out the bushings in the control arm so there's no reason to push them out of there... The spindle pin is fairly soft steel so it's not difficult to cut through with a good bi-metal blade.
  6. cgsheen

    240z reproduction dash

    We've known the guys from Vintage Spirit Garage for years. They are solid dudes, been around for a long time, have turned out some awesome projects, and are deeply involved in the Nissan/Datsun community in California. We've had nothing but good experiences. I was actually a bit annoyed by much of the thread on ClassicZcars... BJSZED - Have you installed your gauges yet? How do they fit?
  7. cgsheen

    Wanted, late 260z manual transmission pedal box

    The pedals and peddle box are the same for all 1974, 1975, and 1976 Z cars. IDK what changed with the '77-'78 280Z's, but '74-'76 are interchangable.
  8. cgsheen

    78 280Z NA MS2 Triggering

    Be sure to get this document from the DIYAutotune site: https://www.diyautotune.com/support/tech/hardware/nissan-trigger-disc/
  9. cgsheen

    L28et swap not starting/staying on

    Oh... You have a REAL '81 CAS? Doesn't matter - input to the ECU is the same as with the '82-'83 optical CAS. You can use an Auto ECU with a manual transmission and vice-versa. The difference between the ECU's has little to do with the EFI and more to do with the transmission lock-out (safety feature on the 280ZX). And yes, I've used an '82-'83 ECU on an '81 harness for testing purposes and it works. If you leave the '82-'83 ECU on the '81 harness, you need to jumper out the dropping resistors. If you're getting power to each injector, the dropping resistors are good. There is one resistor for each injector.
  10. cgsheen

    Building MS2 V3 Board

    Yes. Refer to page 76 of the MS2/V3.0 Hardware Manual. "Connect a 330R 1/4W Resistor between IGBTin and the top of R26." Be sure to follow all the steps in the section on page 76. For the "pull up" resistor (1K) needed when using the Nissan CAS, use the proto area on the version 3.0 board. It's very easy to fit IC's and discrete components in the holes. Fit your resistor in there and then use wires from S12 to one side of the resistor (that's your 12 volt source) and from the other side to TachSelect like the "Using DIYAutoTune.com's Nissan Optical Trigger Discs" .PDF says. Be sure to follow the other instructions in that document - there are other hardware mods to be made on an MS2/V3.0 board. Note that there are GROUND and +5V "holes" (connections) in the proto area - stay away from those for this connection. I find it easy to insert the resistor and bend the leads over towards an adjoining hole. Cut the lead so it just barely goes to the adjoining hole. insert the stripped wire end in the adjoining hole (insulated wire is on the same side as the resistor, bare wire goes through the hole to meet up with the resistor lead on the opposite side of the board...). Lap the bare wire over the resistor lead and solder them together.
  11. cgsheen

    L28et swap not starting/staying on

    The ECU light is normal. It lights at IGN ON and goes off as soon as the ECU gets a CAS signal. That's normally during cranking or engine start. The buzzing, I've never seen before... Is that buzz really coming from the injectors? Check the injector wiring again. (stock)They should have power through a fusable link and the ground is controlled by the ECU. If there are no problems on the +12v side AND the wiring from the ECU is good with no continuity problems (shorts) than you likely have a problem with the ECU. The 1981 ECU needs dropping resistors in the harness. You've already been through the harness and connectors and cleaned the hell out of everything electrical connector related, right?
  12. Good to know they have pads for the Toyota 4-piston. Phil Robles swears by Carbotech on his race Civic.
  13. cgsheen

    Building MS2 V3 Board

    You should probably describe your setup - engine and spark configuration. Although to me at least, it sounds like you're using a single coil and already have an igniter (transistor ignition module, electronic ignition, blah, blah...). If that is the case, then the second bullet would be for you. Although for my MS2 v3.0 board builds I've been using the MS2/V3.0 Hardware Manual that Chickenman linked above and it doesn't have the same "step 22" that you're showing above.
  14. cgsheen

    Failed Emissions

    If your air regulator is bad, the vane never closes and you'll always get bypass air into the manifold. A couple of minutes after start the vane would normally be closed and there would be no bypass air (if it was working properly). IDK if that will help your emissions but I'd block off one of the hoses if I wasn't inclined to make it work the way it should...
  15. Lucas (Javelinz) just recently started taking his 1978 apart. He posted up a picture of his spare tire well on instagram a while ago. It's perfect, no rust (not surprising - he's the second owner and it's an Arizona car...) The car was all original up until a couple of years ago when he bought another driver and started on his modifications. There is no sound deadening material under the space-saver spare tire on the '77-'78 280Z's. Check "ultra.heaven" on instagram and you'll see his picture. (If I wasn't a hundred, I'd probably know how to get the pic off my instagram and post it up here... I'm lucky just to know how to pull up the instagram and look at stuff. )