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cgsheen

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cgsheen last won the day on October 31

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About cgsheen

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  • Birthday 10/07/1951

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  1. cgsheen

    Hood bonding problem

    Vibration is not your only enemy here. Even IF you could stiffen the attachment of the urethane to the hood, as to limit it's mechanical motion, there are still the laws of thermodynamics to content with. Plastics and metals expand and contract at highly different rates with changes in temperature. Even if you used the new flexible body bonding agents (which are amazing) and secured that interface well, you're still going to have the two disparate materials moving differently with temperature change. Plastics are very thermally active - sheet metal not as much. It will always eventually result in a crack between the two dissimilar materials. I'm with JMORT and Miles - leave an exposed seam.
  2. cgsheen

    Home Built Z 'Full video build'

    What slave cylinder are you using? The clutch fork you have is from a series one "monkey shifter" F4W71A 4-speed (1970 here in the US). That slave had an adjustable rod and a retaining spring. All the later transmissions used a solid fork (no holes) and a slave with a non-adjustable push rod.
  3. The early 260Z has the same bumper pistons that the 280's used. So, even though the early 260Z bumpers look similar to 240Z bumpers, they are not. Even though I believe these bumpers will mount on the 280Z pistons, I doubt that the side mounts will be similar. The early 260Z has the bumper depression (or recess) in the quarter panel like the 240Z - the 280Z of course does not. Because the early 260Z pushed the front bumper forward and put it on pistons for US crash standards, it also had "fillers" between the bumper and the body (and grill) that the 240Z did not. Mounted on the piston, the 260Z bumper sits probably 2 1/2" to 3" farther forward than the 240Z bumper did. Personally, I didn't like the early 260Z bumpers - even though they are more 240-ish. I removed the all pistons and put 240Z bumpers on my early 260 so they would fit tighter to the body.
  4. cgsheen

    82-83 Turbo ECU/ECM

    PM sent
  5. cgsheen

    Door lock

    You're talking about an early S30 - 1970-1976, right? Not a '77-'78? The rotating mechanism in the earlies can get sticky over the years and the grease turns solid. A temporary fix is to lube the rotating mechanism on the outside of the door with some spray lube. Overdo it - turn by hand and release until it rotates smoothly and easily. The real fix is to take apart the door, remove the entire mechanism to completely clean and re-lube it before re-installing...
  6. cgsheen

    Dash cap removal

    Does the dash cap prevent the dash finisher (Instrument Garnish) from being removed? There are a few bolts under the finisher - at the bottom of the windshield, the rest are under the dash and shouldn't require removal of the cap. Unless you can't get the finisher off... Most dash caps glue on but you probably won't know what they used until you try to remove it. Good luck.
  7. cgsheen

    Water Temp Sender

    Look at the picture of the temperature sender. The "top" has come off - I could tell that from the black goo oozing out in your pictures. That black "wire" you're pulling out is the internal wiring to the thermistor. It's broken so you don't need to be gentle with it anymore! Pull it out and disconnect the yellow wire from the top of the sender... Remove the nut and pull out the rest of the sender from the thermostat housing. Buy a new temperature sender online or at your local parts store and get it installed. (Save the "hold down" nut just in case the new sender doesn't come with one.) Nissan used the same resistance value for these senders for many years of Z's (and ZX's).
  8. cgsheen

    What is this part? (is there a thread for this?)

    Not fuel, just vacuum from the manifold (there's a check valve in the supply tube that keeps boost from the VCM). It has two vacuum solenoids that control EGR and AAC. There are four hose connections in the stock installation: One from the intake manifold, one from the cold air boot (IIRC), and two to hardlines on the side of the manifold that lead to the AAC and the EGR valves. I think most people with turbo engines in their early Z have already removed the VCM and capped the lines... It does leave you without EGR and AAC however - assuming the VCM is actually still working.
  9. cgsheen

    Water Temp Sender

    Well, the temperature sender itself is just a thermistor - a variable resistor that changes with heat. There's a chart in the FSM with approximate resistance values at various temperatures. Easy to test with a multimeter - one probe to ground, one probe to the male bullet on the end of the sender. Otherwise, it's following the circuit diagram and testing the wiring, connectors, and the gauge...
  10. cgsheen

    Blower Motor Upgrade (Kia Sportage)

    You don't need to remove the dash. The blower housing will come out with the dash in place. The nuts that hold it in place are on the firewall so they're not all really obvious, but if you get in there you'll find them... Look in the FSM to see how it's mounted.
  11. cgsheen

    82-83 l28et distributor plug pics please!

    If you can't locate the stock sub-harness, this is the connector that mates with the CAS optical unit: http://vintageconnections.com/Products/Detail/81 You only need the "female" side, but one of these will allow you to make your own replacement plug for the CAS.
  12. cgsheen

    Water Temp Sender

    There are three sensors in the thermostat housing: Thermotime Switch (EFI), Temperature Sensor (EFI), Temperature Sender (coolant gauge). The EFI sensors have 2-pin Bosch connectors. The Temperature Sender has a male bullet built into the sensor (usually does not have a wire). The yellow wire that connects to it has a female bullet. There is no "ground wire" on this sensor. The Temperature Sender is cheap and readily available (although all the listings I see are for the sensor only and don't include the nut that goes over the barrel and holds it in place). Thermo_sensors.pdf
  13. ZHoob is correct - there is no "prime" on these early EFI Z's. Not on the NA ZX's either - not until the turbo engine (L28ET) ECCS ECU. And the fuel pump SHOULDN'T run continuously - that means a very important saftey circuit has been disabled or is inoperable and needs to be corrected. That's the switch in the AFM he referred to. It's bypassed in the Ignition START position and power is passed to the fuel pump. In any other ignition position, it's the AFM switch that should provide power to the fuel pump. The logic being: IF air is passing through the AFM with enough velocity to make the vane move, the engine must be turning. If the engine is NOT turning (running) the switch should be open and NO power should be going to the fuel pump. If it doesn't work that way someone has screwed with the circuitry or the AFM is defective. The switch in the AFM is pretty simple (and shouldn't default to ON) - it's more likely that someone has bypassed the safety feature...
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