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cgsheen last won the day on October 4

cgsheen had the most liked content!

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About cgsheen

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  • Birthday 10/07/1951

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  1. cgsheen

    Dash cap removal

    Does the dash cap prevent the dash finisher (Instrument Garnish) from being removed? There are a few bolts under the finisher - at the bottom of the windshield, the rest are under the dash and shouldn't require removal of the cap. Unless you can't get the finisher off... Most dash caps glue on but you probably won't know what they used until you try to remove it. Good luck.
  2. cgsheen

    Water Temp Sender

    Look at the picture of the temperature sender. The "top" has come off - I could tell that from the black goo oozing out in your pictures. That black "wire" you're pulling out is the internal wiring to the thermistor. It's broken so you don't need to be gentle with it anymore! Pull it out and disconnect the yellow wire from the top of the sender... Remove the nut and pull out the rest of the sender from the thermostat housing. Buy a new temperature sender online or at your local parts store and get it installed. (Save the "hold down" nut just in case the new sender doesn't come with one.) Nissan used the same resistance value for these senders for many years of Z's (and ZX's).
  3. cgsheen

    What is this part? (is there a thread for this?)

    Not fuel, just vacuum from the manifold (there's a check valve in the supply tube that keeps boost from the VCM). It has two vacuum solenoids that control EGR and AAC. There are four hose connections in the stock installation: One from the intake manifold, one from the cold air boot (IIRC), and two to hardlines on the side of the manifold that lead to the AAC and the EGR valves. I think most people with turbo engines in their early Z have already removed the VCM and capped the lines... It does leave you without EGR and AAC however - assuming the VCM is actually still working.
  4. cgsheen

    Water Temp Sender

    Well, the temperature sender itself is just a thermistor - a variable resistor that changes with heat. There's a chart in the FSM with approximate resistance values at various temperatures. Easy to test with a multimeter - one probe to ground, one probe to the male bullet on the end of the sender. Otherwise, it's following the circuit diagram and testing the wiring, connectors, and the gauge...
  5. cgsheen

    Blower Motor Upgrade (Kia Sportage)

    You don't need to remove the dash. The blower housing will come out with the dash in place. The nuts that hold it in place are on the firewall so they're not all really obvious, but if you get in there you'll find them... Look in the FSM to see how it's mounted.
  6. cgsheen

    82-83 l28et distributor plug pics please!

    If you can't locate the stock sub-harness, this is the connector that mates with the CAS optical unit: http://vintageconnections.com/Products/Detail/81 You only need the "female" side, but one of these will allow you to make your own replacement plug for the CAS.
  7. cgsheen

    Water Temp Sender

    There are three sensors in the thermostat housing: Thermotime Switch (EFI), Temperature Sensor (EFI), Temperature Sender (coolant gauge). The EFI sensors have 2-pin Bosch connectors. The Temperature Sender has a male bullet built into the sensor (usually does not have a wire). The yellow wire that connects to it has a female bullet. There is no "ground wire" on this sensor. The Temperature Sender is cheap and readily available (although all the listings I see are for the sensor only and don't include the nut that goes over the barrel and holds it in place). Thermo_sensors.pdf
  8. ZHoob is correct - there is no "prime" on these early EFI Z's. Not on the NA ZX's either - not until the turbo engine (L28ET) ECCS ECU. And the fuel pump SHOULDN'T run continuously - that means a very important saftey circuit has been disabled or is inoperable and needs to be corrected. That's the switch in the AFM he referred to. It's bypassed in the Ignition START position and power is passed to the fuel pump. In any other ignition position, it's the AFM switch that should provide power to the fuel pump. The logic being: IF air is passing through the AFM with enough velocity to make the vane move, the engine must be turning. If the engine is NOT turning (running) the switch should be open and NO power should be going to the fuel pump. If it doesn't work that way someone has screwed with the circuitry or the AFM is defective. The switch in the AFM is pretty simple (and shouldn't default to ON) - it's more likely that someone has bypassed the safety feature...
  9. cgsheen

    '78 Factory A/C Relay Wiring Questions

    No (or not necessarily...). A relay is just an electrically operated switch. It's almost always activated by another switch (switch working a switch - weird huh?). Many of the switches in a Z are "switching" (breaking) the ground wire. Thats the case here. So, the relay coil is powered by the wire from the fuse panel (which is activated by the ACC (accessories) circuit I believe (it's not "hot" continually)) BUT, it's not active (the electromagnet doesn't "work") until it has a ground applied (has a path to ground). The ground comes from the blower switch and passes through all the other control switches in the A/C circuitry (microswitch, thermostat switch, etc.) If any of these switches in line are not "made" (closed), the relay coil is inactive (no path to ground) and it's switch is "open" which simply means no voltage is being passed to the compressor clutch magnet. The relay is a way to control the switching of the compressor ON/OFF with lower amperage wiring and switches while the relay switch provides a higher amperage wiring path to the compressor. The relay itself is VERY simple, the multitude of additional switches and safeties and controls in the A/C circuitry make understanding the circuit more difficult. You probably got lost at the blower switch... (The ground path is: Earth (shown in diagram above as an attachment to the body of the Ignition Relay) B -> Blower Switch -> LW -> LY MicroSwitch -> Y Thermostat Switch -> BG to Connector -> YR Pressure Switch -> Y to Relay. (If you look closely at the Blower Switch, it shows that B -> LW is closed in all fan speed positions and open when in the OFF position.) OK, all the wire color changes don't help either... The Pressure Switch in these cars is a "high pressure cutout". That switch should ordinarily be closed unless the high pressure side (liquid line) of the refrigeration tubing is overly high pressure. That doesn't happen normally if the A/C refrigerant charge is correct, but it's a "safety" that "shuts off" the compressor in an over-pressure situation. It does that by removing the ground connection to the A/C Relay. It resets itself when the pressure drops.
  10. cgsheen

    '78 Factory A/C Relay Wiring Questions

    ???? A simple relay has a switch and a coil (electromagnet). The coil requires power and a ground to operate. The switch is just a "break" in a strand of wire. In automobiles it can be a battery voltage wire or a ground wire.
  11. cgsheen

    '78 Factory A/C Relay Wiring Questions

    The two LY's are +12v power from the fuse block - one is power to the relay switch and one is power to the relay coil, the L is power out of the relay switch (the opposite side of the switch to your LY) to the compressor clutch magnet, Y is obviously the ground side of the relay coil (again, opposite side of the coil than your 2nd LY). That's how you wire up your new relay...
  12. cgsheen

    brake cooling backing plate

    Hmmm... I'm running Porterfields and when they heat up, they perform better. Although my Z likes the uphill better, there's this downhill run I take up above Tortilla Flat in the Superstition Mountains. By the bottom of the hill my friction is working it's best - and I've never noticed fade. I'm running vented rotors in front.