Turbo7MN

Finally got the bloody thing running last night... time to rebuild the fuel system. Sending a PM .

Those look great, good thinking on switching the sides... leave it to VW to be different and have the controls on the other side, lol. That would have been awkward in a Z....

Seems like it would be a lot of work to try and make a conversion when you can get an IRS diff ready to go. I've always been a big fan of the Mark VIII 8.8 diff, it aluminum, uses a standard gear set so any ratio and diff type under the sun is available and it isn't too hard to mount. The only real PITA thing about it is the axle shafts.

I'm more saying that I have personally used that saw and wanted to give my input on it.... hell it must be good if 5 people have posted a link to it!

Who made those booger snot welds that appear to have zero penetration? I really hope you didn't pay for that...

If you have intentions of driving the car, and driving it hard you really need to fix the rust properly. My guess is that when you clean it up and cut out the rusty bits of the floor you will find the frame rail to be rusted and structurally compromised. If you don't fix this properly you will be compromising the integrity of your entire chassis.

For what you want to do why not step up to a band saw actually made for cutting metal. I find the bad saw to be much more accurate than the chop saw, I contribute that to the blade flexing on start up with the chop saw. I have used this unit, and other than how slow it is and the blade popping off from time to time it can make some great cuts. http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=93762

The grille I have is 20 gauge from the measure I took. That being said if you a doing a custom job who cares what the original was made of, they were rubbish imo, too thin. If you recreated one if stainless it would look good, but stainless is a bit harder to work. I will try and dig my spare out of the basement and take some measures on it.

That is some scary stuff, it is amazing what people call "professionally done" but I guess someone got paid to make a mess of that car. That being said I wouldn't drive the car until it was fixed properly, the 280z I just parted had a frame rail coming through the floor from being driven after it had rusted.

Those look stellar... too bad they went unavailable.

Definitely fixable, to do it properly you will need to un-hem the seam make the proper patch, metal finish, and re-hem it. If you need to learn about metal shaping this site is the best. http://www.metalmeet.com/

I don't know why you thought floor paint would be a good idea? Time to get it boiled out properly again... I've used the POR15 gas tank sealer and it has held up just like it is supposed to.

Can you really have to big of tubing after the turbo Best to do it right the first time and not have to go back and do it again.

I made one, just grabbed a piece of round stock off the shelf drilled it and tapped it. I'm sure summit or jegs can get you just the bung, if you can't find it (I couldn't) I'd call them.

Those headers are a work of art!