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NagaSadow

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Everything posted by NagaSadow

  1. Well, to be clear, I'm really not too worried about an exhaust system. I'm probably just going to put some headers on and that's about it. I'll have to look into the differences between the T56 and 4L60E, but if they mount up the same then I have more options. Also, there seems to be two JCI kits. I found one for $300 I believe on Broken Kitty and one for $600. Wasn't sure what the major differences were, so maybe someone has experience with that enough to inform me. I'm just looking to go as bare bones as I can. I'll worry about the A/C later, but I did take the compressor when I picked up the engine.
  2. The title basically says it all, but I'm looking for the best option for a swap with a LM7 and a 4L60E. I'm looking at this kit from JTR, this engine mount from Dirty Dingo, and this kit from JCI. I'm not really sure which kit is the easiest to work with and the best value. Obviously the mount from Dirty Dingo would need some sort of mounts for the transmission, but it's bolt in and adjustable. Opinions and knowledge would be great. My car is a '77 280Z, just in case that makes any kind of difference with any kits.
  3. Given the size of the FX1 Pro's that you have, do you think the NRG FRP 310's or 300E's might fit in a 1977 280z? Of course with tunnel bashing and whatnot. For comparison, the FX1's are 23 inches at the shoulder bolsters, and have a 20 inch base. The 310's are 24 inches at the shoulders and 20 inches at the base. The 300E's are 23.25 inches at the shoulders and 21.5 inches at the base. I ask because you said the fit was cozy, and there wasn't much room between the seat and your door, along with the e-brake being snug. Essentially, was there anything you could have done to squeeze out a little more room? If anyone else has some insight, feel free to share.
  4. I was reading a lot of threads saying that the Comp Cam's are better than the Schneider's, so I figured I'd ask. Is there a Cam that would be recommended for similar power that they claim? As in power from 2000-6000 RPM.
  5. http://www.compperformancegroupstores.com/store/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=CC&Product_Code=N6HECAM&Category_Code=NISSAN Anyone used the 84-119-6 can or know if it will work well with the L28?
  6. NRG RS-T100-GY-L Type-R Gray Cloth Racing Seat+Adjustable Slider (Left/Driver Side Only) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0116GNQ0C/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_yFhOwbRPBFTBF I have a 1977 280z, would these fit without having to smash the tunnel?
  7. Yeah, I understand that it won't just be as simple as an intake, headers, and an exhaust. However, I was looking for information about which parts would support 200-300hp and then what I'd have to do beyond that. I listed $2k as the budget, but I should have been more clear about that. What I meant is that if I have $2k right now, which parts would be reccomended to work with now to eventually build up to 220hp. It sounds like I'd be better off pulling a cheap L28ET from a junkyard, but in NC we don't have many Datsun's to choose from. So, I will read the two links that you guys provided, then I will come back and edit this with any questions I have. Okay, so I went and read the first few posts, and it goes into a little more depth but still says what you guys have said. From what I gather, the best way to break into the 200's would be an intake, delete the AFM, go with an EMS like MegaSquirt, upgrade the pistons for a higher CR, and upgrade the exhaust. All of which seems to be doable as individual upgrades until everything is done. The camshaft upgrade seems like it would have to be the last upgrade since the stock computers can't handle larger cams, but I'll have to search some to find out how worth it the upgrade would be. That's essentially the information I was looking for. I'm sure there is other stuff that would help, but that is a start.
  8. Ever heard of or used these? http://m.tirerack.com/tires/TireDetailsServlet?tireMake=Toyo&tireModel=Proxes+R1R&partnum=245WR5PR1RV2
  9. Any specific year or model that you pulled yours from?
  10. I know there's a thread on seats that fit, but how did the Integra's fit and how much support do they offer compared to stock? Within the first week I had to change the passenger side caliper, as it gave no pressure, and I also had the system bled because there were pockets of air preventing braking. But, again, the rotors I have are kinda worn and need to be turned or preferably replaced, so I don't think I'm going to get Wilwoods just yet.
  11. So, I'm back after owning the car since mid October. After a few weeks, the carpet started to smell, so I pulled it out and it was just junk. So, I pulled the carpet out of the hatch area, and will be pulling the rest of the carpet out so I can start fresh. After living with the car, I still think the braking system could be a little better. I'm thinking vented rotors (the current ones need to be turned or replaced anyway). I was thinking of getting some braided lines, because it's not a huge amount of money, although the car is just a daily driver for now. The second issue is definitely the seats, because my girlfriend has back issues and she can't stand the stock seats. So, if anyone knows of comfortable seats that will fit and cost >$300, that'd be great. A non-leather material is preferred, by the way. So, that's $110 for rotors, possibly $80 for brake lines, $300 for seats, and then the rest will be to get the air conditioning fixed and performance. That being said, I'd like 220-300hp or something reasonable out of the N/A engine. I'm just looking to do it over time with parts that will help each other. What would the best intake, headers, exhaust, etc be for the goal? If there are any factory parts that are restrictive and not necessary, let me know so I can take them off. Keep in mind that I don't have to pass emissions or anything, but the exhaust needs to be under 93 decibels. Budget is let's say $2k for now, since it'll be over time and can be expanded. Part manufacturers/models would be nice if certain parts are suggested. Thanks for looking.
  12. I could always remove the bumper if I can't find one for a reasonable price. This link is the Z I'm wanting mine to look like http://imgur.com/a/Y7MRp
  13. Alright, well I suppose I'll try some new pads first and see how the back brakes are before I decide to replace or convert to rotors and calipers. I was just reading how the brakes were something most people upgraded, and the experience I had wasn't good, so my assumption was that they weren't good overall. Then I read about the brake conversion kits and thought that was only further proof. I didn't mean to sound snobby or anything, it was just an assumption based on build threads and YouTube build logs.
  14. I've already driven the car a couple of times, and I'm used to cars like a 2000 Mustang with good brakes. What I experienced was very unresponsive brakes that had to be pressed fairly far to stop the car while going 45mph. So, that may not be indicative of how the brakes should be, but I wasn't impressed. I wouldn't be talking about upgrading things that I don't think needed improvement, I am trying to keep under a budget after all.
  15. That just saves me money, so thanks for the input. Is there a major difference in MPG, or more of the same meaning that I'd have to do other modifications to notice it?
  16. Not sure that I agree, but okay. The plan was to do the Toyota brakes and convert the rear brakes to rotors, which I don't see as a blingy option. I would be more inclined to agree if you had cited the strut bars, but I suppose some people don't think along the same lines that I do. To clarify, the overall goal is to essentially modernize the car with power brakes, new seats, maybe power steering, and get it to the point where it's as comfortable a daily driver as any modern car. I'm still going to keep all of the original parts in case I decide otherwise, and upgrade one thing at a time starting with the suspension to see if I change my mind.
  17. I'm not sure what you mean by the Frankenstein monster build. I think it's fairly clear when I stated that it will be a daily driver and I am looking to only mildly increase power. Then I talked about suspension upgrades, and airdam to upgrade the looks, and asked for suggestions to improve the power in an ideal manner. I origanlly started with a 240z that I found, and they're the same price, which is why I had the link.
  18. I'm going to paint any rims that I get black, and leave a tiny strip of chrome at the edge, so no worries there. That's good to know, it just seemed like even daily driver builds were upgrading the fuel injection. At least I won't spend money on useless parts in that case.
  19. Well, a light "restoration" to the front fender where there's a rust hole, the cracked dash (which is salvageable), and minor trim defects. But, yeah, it's been stored under a car port with a cover on it and driven once or twice a month since the son abandoned it in 1985. And of course I'll keep the stock interior and have it fixed up so that if I ever sell the car I can put it back in. I wonder why most build threads usually skip straight to a megasquirt, if it's not much better. Oh well, I kinda figured a new intake and exhaust system would be one of the first suggestions. Honestly, I was going to go cheap and pick up some of the original Panasport rims or something like this http://www.zcarsource.com/wheel-set-western-15-spoke-wheel-14x5-5-set-of-4-used_8_56836_198441.html As far as the bumpers go, do you recommend the ones at http://www.frpautomotive.com/frp_price_list_page.html or is there a U.S. vendor that's good?
  20. List of predetermined modifications: http://www.jpngarage.com/240-260-280Z-Urethane-front-air-dam-X-3125.htm $215 http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/classic20f/23-4201 $240 for front and rear http://www.amazon.com/KYB-FRONT-REAR-shocks-struts/dp/B002T4HDY6 $155
  21. I've made a couple of posts regarding a full restoration project, but I think I've found the right car to make my part easier. Here's a link to an album of the pictures I took while checking the car out http://i.imgur.com/V5DgwQxh.jpg The car is a 1977 280z, it has been in the owners family since 1977 when he took his son to a Datsun dealership and told him to pick a car. From what he tells me, the same mechanic has worked on it for the last 25 years (will have to verify that) and it's generally in good shape. It runs well, with the original engine sitting at 124k miles. Overall, the only rust I could find was the front fender below the battery. The interior is all original, but it does have aftermarket speakers since the originals blew. Anyway, the plan is to make a classic daily driver with a little bit of power for the weekends. The first thing I'm going to do is replace the struts, seats, remove the carpet, and make the AC work again. After that, I'll see about putting on new rotors, bigger brakes, a strut brace on both ends of the car, and then work on the engine. Which is where this post comes in. I have no clue what upgrades would be ideal, but I'm thinking of upgrading the fuel injection and maybe the head. Budget of 13k, the car is about 6-6.5k depending on the negotiations tomorrow. Suggestions are welcome, and thanks for looking.
  22. How much to ship an entire kit (including cost of the kit) to the US?
  23. I'm looking for a 1971-1978 240Z, 260Z or even a 280Z. I'm not looking for a track car or anything ridiculous, just a reliable daily driver that looks nice. My maximum budget is $13k, so if your car can't be made into a reliable daily for that, then unfortunately I'm not the person to buy your car. I'm located in North Carolina, and my loan is through the state employees credit union, so any vehicle would have to be purchased within my state for my bank to approve the purchase. Thanks for reading and feel free to link anything that's applicable. *edited to include the 280Z
  24. It was really just an example to show the starting points of the two ideas. I'll consider anything from a 240-280z as long as it's before 1980.
  25. Before someone mentions it, I'm setting aside 2-3k for the swap to be done by a professional if I can't get my fathers friend (a mechanic who owes some favors) to help.
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