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Everything posted by BJSZED

  1. Ignition Problems when Hot

    Compare your voltage from the heavy power lead on the alternator to the voltage at the battery. If the wiring is stock, the power flows from the alternator to the fuse box through the ammeter back to the battery. I had 1 volt drop on my 240z between the alternator to the battery and it melted one of the connectors under the dash. Not saying this is the issue but it is possible that the alternator is putting out more than what your battery voltage says IF the flow of power is stock. Run an additional heavy wire from the alternator terminal to the battery so the charging current doesn't have to run through the dash. This is even more important if you have additional accessories like electric fans etc. run from the battery. Ask me how I know ! Downside is the ammeter wont read correctly as it will be partially bypassed.
  2. Evans Waterless Coolant

    Wondering if anyone else on the forum has converted to Evans Waterless Coolant ? I just made the switch and am considering going to a 7 psi rad cap to reduce strain on the hoses etc. If anyone else converted, what cap are you running and thermostat temperature?
  3. Evans Waterless Coolant

    Respose from Evans on my testing: Hi Brent- Thank you for your thoughtful inquiry. I reviewed your questions with my manager, Evans' Technical Director Dave Wright. The air-over-liquid condition in the radiator and in the overflow, allows a siphoning situation which could pull more moist air back and forth. Coolant at operating temp will "give off" some moisture, and the cooling "pullback" will suck some back in. Over a very long time, in a humid climate, some moisture could accumulate in the system. Like 3% in 10 years-maybe, in Dave's explanation. Our suggestion: Maintain the air space in the rad, and leave the overflow tank empty. It is expected that due to the inherent minimal expansion, and minimal pressure differential, the coolant will never release out of the rad. The secondary cap seal, or "vacuum breaker" may just momentarily "pop" to equalize pressure as needed, then snap shut. No coolant involved, very little air, and very little moisture will transfer. If you'd like you can send us a small sample of coolant from; A) the engine/ radiator, and the expansion bottle when cold, we can verify actual water content as a baseline. Evans also now has a lower-cost refractometer available, p.n. E2196 @$29.95 to allow you to monitor the system going forward. Please contact me with any further questions. -Pete
  4. Evans Waterless Coolant

    I left a little coolant in the overflow bottle and it sucked it from the reservoir. The only way back in is through the vacuum valve. I have spoken to Evans again. They still recommend keeping an air space in the rad. I might install an expansion tank with a rad cap on it and put a zero pressure cap on the rad, that way the rad can be totally full and the expansion tank would act as my air space. The vacuum valve in the cap would still open though.
  5. Project Tetanus,,,,now that"s funny.
  6. Evans Waterless Coolant

    Well, That was a good theory but failed in practice. It worked fine while running, no coolant expanded to the reservoir tank but when cooling down after the engine stopped, the vacuum valve built into the bottom of the rad cap opens allowing air back in. Maybe, I'm overthinking this and need to just occasionally check water content ? Three percent is the maximum allowed.
  7. Evans Waterless Coolant

    Well, I called and will post Evans response to my questions for anyone considering this product. My concern was absorbing moisture from air in the recovery bottle. This will happen according to Evans but it will take time to build up water in the system. The preferred method is to run the cooling system old school like my 240z originally was. You can have an "overflow bottle '' but don't want any fluid in it so it's not recycled over and over. He said to lower the coolant in the rad an inch or so or let it puke out what it doesn't want from expansion. And I can keep the overflow bottle but wouldn't have coolant in it, just there to catch any excess in case it gets real hot. The idea here is that the system will build approx. 6 psi hydraulic pressure which will only compress the air in the rad but that wont be enough to overcome the 13 lb rad cap which will keep the system sealed preventing any moisture from the atmosphere from entering. So, new school coolant with old school air space in the rad.....too easy !
  8. Evans Waterless Coolant

    Thanks Tim for your response, I'm going to call them today with a couple questions. If I may ask, how did you handle coolant recovery? I have a recovery bottle in place and the coolant expands into it and returns to the cooling system after cool down as designed. Now, seeing that the Evans coolant is hygroscopic ( will absorb water even fro the air ) my concern is that it will absorb water from the air in the recovery tank ? Water is really the only thing that can screw up the properties of this coolant.
  9. 240z fuel tank

    its steel, a magnet would tell you
  10. You lose more than a couple horsepower even with a clutch fan....Motor Trend just did dyno testing, google Engine Masters. Would provide a link if I knew how ! With a shroud loses are greater
  11. L28 dual duty build

    Take a look in the fuel delivery section
  12. Been down this road. You will be lean on one side of the intake if you hook the pcv up to one side of the intake....better to use the PCV port on the carb or drill and thread in the center of the plenum divider to equal out distribution. I would use the original pcv valve as it will flow the proper amounts.
  13. Holley Sniper EFI

    Hi John, If it's not too much trouble, could you post a photo of the port vacuum hole in the throttle bore in relation to a closed throttle plate. I had a lot of trouble with that on my fitech and am curious if holley handled that better. I know on their carbs the position is perfect. Here is a photo of the stock fitect port vacuum hole with a closed throttle plate.
  14. Holley Sniper EFI

    The shiny one is in stock at performanceimprovements .com............$1478 Canadian
  15. Holley Sniper EFI

    That should work well with the Sniper. I thought you were putting it on the L6 ! The Sniper should have better Holley support. I would have tried it on my L6 but am probably only at 200 hp. I set mine up with the rubber lines for quick setup as that's what came with my kit but stainless Teflon ( not rubber core ) is the way to go if you can. My lines started to split at the ends in just a couple months. Lot's of good info at http://www.chevelles.com/forums/89-efi/ on the Sniper as well as other efi. Happy reading!
  16. Holley Sniper EFI

    I just replaced the high pressure rubber line with Carbon-Teflon core, stainless braided fuel line. The rubber lines don't seem to last long and I was getting a lot of fuel smell through the hose. The problem with the barbed connectors is they screw up the special coating on the inside of the lines and the hose ends then deteriorate and split at the fittings. The stainless line I bought wasn't bad price but the fitting prices are insane. You can order line from Fraggola and they will custom make the line to length with the fittings attached which can be a lot cheaper. Another thought on rubber line is that when the rubber degrades between the filter and the throttle body, the bits will end up in the fuel injectors. Which intake manifold are you running?
  17. Four barrel EFI

    Yep, it is a lot easier...want to try 12.6 to 1, type it in to the handheld, done.....easy changes, can have different tunes for different goals, mileage etc...easy! Look forward to the Sniper write up...........
  18. Four barrel EFI

    Yep, good solution and no venting issues
  19. Four barrel EFI

    Ozconnection, Have been reading that TBI systems generally run better with an open plenum instead of dual. Especially, if the fuel is injected below the throttle plates ? Seems to be the case with V8 engines but not all. Mine runs fine with the Arizona manifold but would be interesting to try a Clifford one day.
  20. Four barrel EFI

    I have the FCC and it is not all roses. Definitely not suitable for any kind of circuit racing due to the float. The vent from the FCC is really a return, do not run it into any factory vent line that is for burning off fumes as you will be sucking raw fuel into the intake manifold. Ask me how I know ! Run the "vent" line from the FCC to the factory return line and let the factory vent line act as a vent. Also, since there is no high pressure fuel return to the tank, the fuel recirculates inside the FCC and heats up which then can boil. This is why people are removing the float and running the "vent" as a return which keeps the low pressure side flowing cooling the fuel. Fitech is now offering better set-ups like the Rob MC unit...check them out. The FCC works but may need some tweaking, many reviews on-line. Like I said if you go TBI, start a thread. As you can tell, I'm serious about it ! lol.
  21. Four barrel EFI

    I think the Sniper is for 250 hp plus.....if you do it, make a thread. Almost went that option as well. Also, a better option than the fuel command center is the Rob MC Powersurge, no float or wonky vent set-up....it's fed the same with a low pressure pump. Some guys are gutting the command center float and setting it up like the Rob MC unit.
  22. R200 Handling Problems BetaMotorsports article

    I changed my descriptions to compressed, less confusion. I don't think a 280z would be any different as far as shaft length changes, as in getting longer under compression. I believe the basic design is the same other than the strut assembly length. On the 240z the half shafts are really close to fully compressed at full droop, probably not much more than an 1/8" play left. I was pretty worried about it until my friend showed me the light ! Could possibly be an issue if lifting the left rear wheel on a road course with the extra side pressure on the other wheel or the weight of the diff moving on the mustache bar bushings....dunno ?
  23. R200 Handling Problems BetaMotorsports article

    With the left halfshaft bolted in place at the wheel side and the suspension at full droop, there is little play when bolting the left inner side up. When the suspension is compressed there is more play on the inner side when bolting them up. Anyone having a hard time getting them in should compress the suspension slightly and in they go. I was quite worried about it and was going to run the suspension through full travel without the spring but my drag racing buddy came over and showed me how the shaft length got longer as the suspension went up. There is a thread somewhere on here in which someone ran the suspension without a spring and shaft length was shortest at full droop and got longer the more the suspension was compressed.
  24. R200 Handling Problems BetaMotorsports article

    I went through this last winter. Replaced R180 with R200 in 240z. I had halfshafts from both and they measured exactly the same, compressed and extended. Ended up using the R180 halfshafts as they were in better shape. Had read about the binding issue so that was thoroughly checked out and halfshafts were compressed most at full droop. The halfshafts got longer as the suspension compessed. No issues driving.
  25. Good Morning fellow HybridZ members ! I have been a member here for a little while now and have educated myself with all the astounding contributions from this community. I can't imagine all the work in the detailed threads and builds. Unfortunately I don't have the same skill set or patience for taking pictures or video of all the steps along the way but will still try to contribute. I will warn you I take to long to explain things. Can you tell ? History: Picked up a 72 240z with a rebuilt stock L26 running round top SU's about 1-1/2 years ago. Loved the car, always wanted one and it ran ok when warm, terrible when cold. The previous owner looked after the car cosmetically but his mechanical skills were limited so I knew things could be much improved. I also researched and wanted to do the easy and common driveline swaps so I found an 81 280ZX to harvest the 3.90 R200 and close ratio 5 speed from. The car was original, rusted out and had 54,000 miles. At first, I wasn't going to use the engine as the seller said it had a knock but upon inspection it had thrown one of the lash pads off due to a stuck valve from sitting so long. Anyway, I tore the head off and found perfect cylinder bores, no pitting, ring ridge etc so I figured might as well try using the L28 short block. It was original with it's flat top pistons while the L26 I had was running dished. Induction thoughts: I loved the look of the twin SU's but they were going to need work, although they were apparently rebuilt and properly adjusted. Now, right or wrong I didn't want to be dickin around with two carbs so my plans were to replace the intake and carbs with 4 barrel. For me this was best, can be adjusted and maintained easier and I'm a function over form guy. I researched and decided that the manifold to use was from Arizona Z car. It was dual plenum and would provide more usable torque for the street and would also go with the recommended Holley 390 carb. A buddy of mine is a very talented, long time drag racer and he offered to work on the intake for me. I didn't really think it would be required for a street car but his theory was that there could be some free horsepower in there and a few extra horsepower is a few extra horsepower. He went about smoothing the ports but did the most work in the plenum. The plenum divider was thinned and much time was spent carving the plenum transition to the runners. Sorry, but these are the only pics I have. Much more work was done and making a thread was never a thought at that point. Cylinder head: Originally I was going to use the L26 so I had decided to rebuilt the 72 E88 head. Whitehead performance did the work and confirmed that I had the early E-88 with the closed chambers. They also confirmed that the original brass seats needed replacing with steel and I decided to replace all valves with the larger size used on the L28 engines. The head needed some aluminum repair but otherwise was in exceptional shape. I was panicky and conflicted when I decided to use the L28 F54 block as compression might be too high. And after much research and confirmation with whiteheads decided it would be ok. And if it wasn't, I would just use the L26 block. When I got the head back my buddy again offered his services. He smoothed the ports and bowls and did some other voodoo for another potential horsepower or two. Awesome guy! Also, a mild cam from webcam and new OEM rockers were installed. Start up and experience with Holley: Everything went so well. I had expected some issues but the engine roared to life and after a couple mixture and idle setting she was running like a champ. Decided, to take it around the block without the hood on to see how the 5 speed and rear end worked. I was taking it really easy but could tell things were much improved. My drag racing buddy asked what I thought and my response was " I think she really wants to go ". I was taking it so easy that my busy body neighbor comes over and asks me "what"s the matter with it, it doesn't seem to be running right" Guess he never heard a performance cam before. Anyway, the next day as I was backing out of the driveway the same guys coming over again so I was a little more aggressive and left him standing in a cloud of tire smoke as I'm driving up the road watching from the rearview mirror as the smoke rolls over him . It's one of the funniest things I've ever done and laughed about it for days and the 150 ft black marks are still there. Guess it was running ok after all eh, lol. Timing was set conservatively at 12 degrees idle, 30 degrees full throttle with about another 30 degrees at cruise from vacuum advance due to using the 81 280ZX dizzy and without any pinging. Anyway, holley was great, no hesitation, instant throttle response, very happy except for the electric choke. It sucked and couldn't be adjusted to my satisfaction so I used that as a HUGE excuse to try an EFI throttle body. Finally, experience with Fitech EFI 4 barrel: Overall, everything went very well but there definitely was some issues which had to be resolved. I went with fitech's fuel commander which has a few issues that I wasn't aware of at the time. I sorted them out but there was some head scratching going on. First issue: Venting the FCC center. Fitech says it has to be vented to the tank and can be t'd into a charcoal canister line or any other vent line going to the tank. I t'd into the tank vent which runs to the two way valve which runs to the stock PCV tube coming out of the block. This should be perfect as i'm venting the FCC tank fumes into the same system that vents the gas tank....WRONG! What I was seeing was occasional A/F ratios which needed huge amounts of trim. The fitech system tunes itself but you can watch it from an included monitor. As an experiment, I installed a clear vent line from the FCC center to a clear apple juice container and took the car for a 30 minute ride. In that time the FCC vent was spewing out enough raw fuel to 3/4 fill the container...WTF supposed to be a vent not a fuel return. What was happening was that fuel was dumping into the gas tank vent line and being sucked directly into the intake manifold through the PCV system causing the crazy fuel trim ! The fix was to vent the FCC into the original fuel return line which runs back to the tank which lets the gas tank vent line function as it should from the rear vapour separator to the pcv system. 2nd issue: Was getting a momentary lean spike with momentary pinging with sudden throttle transitions from cruise or under full throttle while shifting gears and getting on and off the throttle. Never any pinging under full wide open throttle. I tried adjusting accelerator pumps shots thinking it was getting enough but that would not work no matter what I tried. Next I looked at the distributor function and hooked a mechanical vacuum gauge T'd into the distributor line and compared with what the fitech manifold vacuum was....gotcha, you pesky problem ! Basically no vacuum on the distributor line coming from the throttle body port vacuum circuit. The only time the line saw vacuum was for a split second during sudden throttle transitions as noted above. The fix would not be quick or easy. You might be thinking just put the distributor on the full manifold vacuum port and I did experiment with several versions of this. Bottom line is my engine idles best without the added vacuum advance and it worked perfect with the carb and so it should work perfect with EFI. A combination of things were causing the problem, 1. Throttle body is huge and is really meant for larger engines which means you need to almost completely close the throttle blades to get your IAC reading correct. This lowers the blades further from the port vacuum orifice. 2. Throttle blade is very thick compared to the holley which means it has to move farther to uncover the hole. 3. Fitech has the orifice too high. At approx. 6% cruise the hole is too high The fix: I first tried adjusting the secondary blades higher to the hole and closing the primary throttles lower but this resulted with too high an idle while getting IAC adjustment correct. Basically, I would have to fill the existing orifice and re-drill lower. This took a few attempts as the vaccum circuit is not drilled at 90 degrees but at an angle and had to be drilled from outside in. In the end, this worked along with thinning the throttle blade on the underside to fine tune. Port vacuum works as designed, nothing at idle and full manifold vacuum above idle. Ping on throttle transition is gone. Timing will all be fine tuned in the spring as the cars away for the winter. Anyway, a lot of work to replace an electric choke !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! The system works very well, runs perfectly from cold, instant throttle response, excellent power. No dyno's where I live so will take it to the dragstrip this summer to get an idea of the HP. Sorry, for the messy engine bay, tie wraps etc. Has been a long experiment and the throttle body has been on and off about 30 times. Tried to insert photos as I went, we shall see if I screwed it up.............sorry for the rambling post. Brent