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Everything posted by BJSZED

  1. Fuel tank vent / Evap tank / EFI question

    Not exactly our Datsun layout but operation is the same.
  2. Fuel tank vent / Evap tank / EFI question

    On my 72 it connects to the block breather pipe and vents to the crankcase and then to the pcv valve when there is engine vacuum pulling on it. It will draw fuel in if it's in the line. Witnessed it. Vapor tank is a fuel/vapor separator, makes sense why the original line is connected to the highest point on the vapor tank.
  3. Fuel tank vent / Evap tank / EFI question

    I would be worried about the engine vacuum drawing in liquid fuel. I did something similar and wondered why the original vacuum line was rock hard and it was from drawing in liquid fuel. Sucked it up through the PCV valve into the intake manifold. Originally that line connects high on the vapor tank to draw in just vapors. Vapor tank does a great job keeping liquid fuel out of that line. Personally I wouldn't remove it.
  4. Alternator Noise with MS2

    Not sure if this relates or not but all the aftermarket efi throttle bodies etc want the positive and negative straight to the battery.
  5. 90 Amp Maxima Alternator Upgrade

    Might have to wait awhile for a response, lol. I'm still waiting. Did it myself in the meantime.
  6. I would think if the cam was re-ground, there would be extra markings like engraving or stampings at the rear end of the cam. As for the head thickness you can measure it against stock specs for total thickness. I believe the stock US L26 pistons were dished but not 100 % sure. At least mine were.
  7. Lost 3 lap pads

    I had this happen on an L28 that sat for a long long time. The valves were all gummed up from trying to run it on old stale gas. PS, you should correct your thread title. I wondered what lap pads were ?
  8. Cyber Monday

    I called thezstore and they weren't doing black Friday so I would assume they aren't doing cyber moonday
  9. I had a 72 L24 pickup and an 81 280zx l28 non turbo pickup and both were the same.
  10. Zcardepot has a fuel injection kit for the stock intake https://zcardepot.com/fuel-injection-retrofit-kit-fast-efi-280z-280zx.html Personally, I prefer the looks of the 4 barrel efi setups. Don't know about function, but to me it looks cleaner. An ITB setup would be sweet. Megasquirt sounds intimidating. Brent
  11. 90 Amp Maxima Alternator Upgrade

    I would like to do this upgrade. What were your final results ? Voltage at idle etc. When your fans come on, is the idle stable? I have a 60 amp alternator on my Z now and when my 2 cooling fans ( apprx 20 amps total ) come on the idle dips. Was considering the 91 Dodge Monaco alternator swap as well.
  12. Rear end vibration under throttle in gear

    Can't you just change the joint ? Should be able to unless I'm missing something.
  13. What to do when shop has had car 9 months?

    To pay for materials, overhead etc. Standard business practice.
  14. What to do when shop has had car 9 months?

    I think it's totally justified to ask for a deposit when doing this type of work. And if I was the business owner, I wouldn't do any work without one. There should also be an a contract of some sort with a timeline offered.
  15. Ignition Problems when Hot

    Compare your voltage from the heavy power lead on the alternator to the voltage at the battery. If the wiring is stock, the power flows from the alternator to the fuse box through the ammeter back to the battery. I had 1 volt drop on my 240z between the alternator to the battery and it melted one of the connectors under the dash. Not saying this is the issue but it is possible that the alternator is putting out more than what your battery voltage says IF the flow of power is stock. Run an additional heavy wire from the alternator terminal to the battery so the charging current doesn't have to run through the dash. This is even more important if you have additional accessories like electric fans etc. run from the battery. Ask me how I know ! Downside is the ammeter wont read correctly as it will be partially bypassed.
  16. Evans Waterless Coolant

    Wondering if anyone else on the forum has converted to Evans Waterless Coolant ? I just made the switch and am considering going to a 7 psi rad cap to reduce strain on the hoses etc. If anyone else converted, what cap are you running and thermostat temperature?
  17. Evans Waterless Coolant

    Respose from Evans on my testing: Hi Brent- Thank you for your thoughtful inquiry. I reviewed your questions with my manager, Evans' Technical Director Dave Wright. The air-over-liquid condition in the radiator and in the overflow, allows a siphoning situation which could pull more moist air back and forth. Coolant at operating temp will "give off" some moisture, and the cooling "pullback" will suck some back in. Over a very long time, in a humid climate, some moisture could accumulate in the system. Like 3% in 10 years-maybe, in Dave's explanation. Our suggestion: Maintain the air space in the rad, and leave the overflow tank empty. It is expected that due to the inherent minimal expansion, and minimal pressure differential, the coolant will never release out of the rad. The secondary cap seal, or "vacuum breaker" may just momentarily "pop" to equalize pressure as needed, then snap shut. No coolant involved, very little air, and very little moisture will transfer. If you'd like you can send us a small sample of coolant from; A) the engine/ radiator, and the expansion bottle when cold, we can verify actual water content as a baseline. Evans also now has a lower-cost refractometer available, p.n. E2196 @$29.95 to allow you to monitor the system going forward. Please contact me with any further questions. -Pete
  18. Evans Waterless Coolant

    I left a little coolant in the overflow bottle and it sucked it from the reservoir. The only way back in is through the vacuum valve. I have spoken to Evans again. They still recommend keeping an air space in the rad. I might install an expansion tank with a rad cap on it and put a zero pressure cap on the rad, that way the rad can be totally full and the expansion tank would act as my air space. The vacuum valve in the cap would still open though.
  19. Project Tetanus,,,,now that"s funny.
  20. Evans Waterless Coolant

    Well, That was a good theory but failed in practice. It worked fine while running, no coolant expanded to the reservoir tank but when cooling down after the engine stopped, the vacuum valve built into the bottom of the rad cap opens allowing air back in. Maybe, I'm overthinking this and need to just occasionally check water content ? Three percent is the maximum allowed.
  21. Evans Waterless Coolant

    Well, I called and will post Evans response to my questions for anyone considering this product. My concern was absorbing moisture from air in the recovery bottle. This will happen according to Evans but it will take time to build up water in the system. The preferred method is to run the cooling system old school like my 240z originally was. You can have an "overflow bottle '' but don't want any fluid in it so it's not recycled over and over. He said to lower the coolant in the rad an inch or so or let it puke out what it doesn't want from expansion. And I can keep the overflow bottle but wouldn't have coolant in it, just there to catch any excess in case it gets real hot. The idea here is that the system will build approx. 6 psi hydraulic pressure which will only compress the air in the rad but that wont be enough to overcome the 13 lb rad cap which will keep the system sealed preventing any moisture from the atmosphere from entering. So, new school coolant with old school air space in the rad.....too easy !