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ZHoob2004

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ZHoob2004 last won the day on August 23 2016

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About ZHoob2004

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    : Tucson, AZ

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  1. ZHoob2004

    Dyno'd my stock L28ET today - coolant everywhere!

    There's some discussion of this valve in this stickied thread Specifically this post by Tony D says the valve is a poppet valve that only bypasses coolant when pressure surges (high rpm, thermostat closed) or when the heater valve is open. Based on that, I would say an elbow connected only to the heater (as on earlier engines) and not revving while cold (shouldn't do this anyway) would work fine.
  2. I don't know if there's an exact cutoff for when a car becomes the next model year, but I think September would still be a 75 (just the last, or second to last month for that year).
  3. ZHoob2004

    Fuel pump primes constantly? HELP??

    What position are you referring to? The behavior may have changed in 78, but in 77 there was no 'prime' functionality. The pump is triggered by the AFM flapper when the key is ON, and runs continually when the key is in START. I would start by investigating the AFM. Get a wiring diagram and a multimeter and start measuring.
  4. ZHoob2004

    re-mapping and live tuning L28ET 1982 ECCS

    I have one I've been working on casually for the past year or so for my Honda (maybe it's been 2?). It's still not in the car very often (though it has started and driven). The assembly process is not for everyone and I (as well as everyone else on the forum) strongly recommend a preassembled unit. It's great hardware, and it's awesome being able to request features and get them a week later with personal support, but it's still a bit behind MS3 in the software department.
  5. I want the sprayable sealer because I'm lazy and that looks way easier than masking and brushing/smearing. Plus I like the extra coverage you were able to get on the rust-prone areas under the battery tray, wiper cowl and inner fenders.
  6. I guess I'll have to ask around to see if I can find one to borrow because it's not quite worth $200 to me (though it's probably pretty close). I was going to ask if you're willing to lend yours out with a deposit, but then I checked the location...
  7. ZHoob2004

    How to remove black oil spot from the seat!!??

    Brake cleaner on a seat? I'd be afraid of it dissolving the entire cushion...
  8. ZHoob2004

    Measurements for CD009 and R154 and trans tunnel

    It's hard to say how much of a problem that would really be without trying it, IMO. And with a shorter shift lever that could be reduced even further. I think the real tricky part would be that the lever will be moving opposite the direction of the engine during torque application, backwards from most cars. Another issue I just thought of is that on stock-like mounts the tail of the transmission probably doesn't just move side to side, but more likely in an arc/ellipse which means there is an up/down component that might need to be considered, unless the shift linkage already takes care of that. Not sure if it's relevant or not, but old manual transmission Hondas (FWD) use a shifter setup that's somewhere in between chassis mount and transmission mounted. There is a long linkage assembly that is mounted between the transmission and chassis with rubber bushings and the shift lever pivot is contained in the tail end of the linkage. Later K-series Hondas use a cable actuated shifter which would need to be adapted to a rwd transmission, but would allow complete freedom of lever placement. Another option would be a linkage setup between the original shifter on the transmission and a newly fabricated lever on the floor, but I don't think that would really solve many of the issues except for moving the shift lever forwards.
  9. ZHoob2004

    Measurements for CD009 and R154 and trans tunnel

    I may be missing something (never dealt with these transmissions before), but would having the shifter pivot mounted to the chassis really cause any problems due to the transmission moving? As long as the shift lever pivot allows enough extra freedom of movement that it never binds I don't think there would be any problems with the pivot being solid.
  10. I'm really intrigued by the sprayable seam sealer. Did you purchase the gun specifically for this project, or is it something you already had? I want to do this on my car, but I don't want to invest the $200 that most guns seem to be demanding.
  11. ZHoob2004

    Wolf creek stubi

    I think the half shaft fits into the axle, not the other way around, meaning the adapter should be heated. But I agree, a sharp smack with just about anything ought to separate them. Be less gentle, nothing is going to break.
  12. ZHoob2004

    Wolf creek stubi

    Heat the adapter with a torch; they'll come apart.
  13. ZHoob2004

    A/C removal question

    The compressor and the idler pulley both mount to the same bracket, and that pulley is only there to adjust tension on the compressor. You can remove all of them with no issues. It'll be a lot more obvious once you're there looking at it.
  14. ZHoob2004

    Should I buy a 79 280zx

    This is another good reason. If nothing else, you could get a few hundred each for the motor, diff and trans. Could fairly easily make back your money and probably more.
  15. ZHoob2004

    Microsquirt

    I believe historically OEMs have avoided integrating high current drivers directly into the ECU so that when they burn out you don't have to replace or repair your ECU, just a separate ignition module. Many manufacturers use either an external ignition module or integrate them into their "smart" coil packs.
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