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ZHoob2004 last won the day on August 23 2016

ZHoob2004 had the most liked content!

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  1. I'm having a hard time seeing any alignment/misalignment in the picture. The master cylinder should be directly inline with the pedal left/right, and should be pretty close to one of the holes in the pedal up/down. Here's a picture of the connection I lifted from atlanticz
  2. Mating RB trans w/ Rear Sump Oil Pan

    You just use the 4 bolts. The brackets are for a little extra stiffening, but they aren't really necessary. Every rear sump rb I can find on google images only uses the 4 upper bolts. The stock l28 in your 280z only attached to the transmission with 4 bolts in about the same locations.
  3. If it's running very lean, it's not getting enough fuel, but it's probably igniting alright. check all your injector connections as well as the injector resistor packs. If the problem is appearing right after it rained, I'm suspecting something electrical.
  4. When you say the wideband reads its maximum value, do you mean it was all the way rich <10:1, or all the way lean >20:1? If it's rich, I'd start with the ignition system and distributor, if it's lean I'd start with the fuel pump, filter and regulator.
  5. Any alternator can be made to work, it's just a matter of getting the belt connected and reconciling the wiring. Other swaps I've seen are 300zx, Maxima, or even a few gm units. EDIT: I should clarify, the reason the 280zx/maxima/300zx units are popular is because they bolt directly on and have the correct pulley to match the groove on the stock damper. The GM alternator swap I saw required the pulley to be swapped and some fiddling with the mount.
  6. From what I understand, the mechanical regulators aren't known for the reliability or their precision. On my own 77 I've noticed a significant delay in response under "high" load. Whenever my headlights are on and I use my turn signals, the voltage fluctuates by nearly 1v. In addition, the 280zx alternator has a slightly higher base output, which works well for other mods, such as electric fans, upgraded wipers, and blower motor.
  7. Tips for removing 3M adhesive?

    I'll also add that Goo Gone and its clones can be found in a spray bottle form, which should help with application, though you will still need to scrape/wipe the adhesive. Maybe a fine scotch-brite pad or something.
  8. Alright, list incoming. I'm by no means experienced with turbo swaps, but I think I can get you on the right path to identifying everything you have and what it does. First thing, I see a mostly stock 280zx turbo swap dropped into your 280z. This is pretty good, because it means you only really need to look for information about those two cars. Manuals can be found here, here, and here. (plus more, google '1977 280z service manual'). Now the list: 2, 25 - This is your antenna cable 3, 30 - Duct for one of the vents (I think that's the driver's floor vent, if I'm not mistaken) 9 - You're probably right about it being boost gauge. The plates aren't stock. The one towards the firewall is EGR delete, the other is likely related though I'm not familiar. You may or may not need to "fix" these, depending on local regulations. I can also see your valve cover breather is venting to atmosphere through a filter, which is creating a large vacuum leak. The breather should be connected to filtered air from a pipe downstream from your Air Flow Meter (AFM - see pic 20) 11 - Yes 14 - Lucky for you, whoever did the swap decided to connect the heater hoses, so that's nice. On these cars there is a vacuum-operated valve just inside the firewall that prevents coolant flow to the heater core if the AC is running. It also prevents flow if the valve loses vacuum for any other reason, which I suspect is your problem. These valves are expensive. 15 - The silver box is a mechanical voltage regulator. A common mod is to remove this and swap the alternator for an internally regulated model, such as the one that came stock on the 280zx. Since this is a 280zx swap, it is possible the alternator mod was done as well and the old regulator was simply disconnected and left in place. 17 - The "pill" looks to be a condenser (capacitor). Ordinarily it is located next to your coil to help reduce the voltage dips and spikes the coil causes as it charges and fires. I'm not sure what it's doing over there. 18 - Those connectors are for the vacuum tank solenoids from the stock AC system. The vacuum tank was a chamber to "store" vacuum (can you store the lack of something?), this was to help the smoothness of the vacuum operated vent system (all the blend doors are operated by springs and vacuum). Not expressly necessary for vent operation the solenoids are only useful for the stock AC system. Without the tank, your vents will just move back to their default position when the engine isn't running (and go back where they were when you start it). 19 - Those fuses aren't actually for the sound system! Originally, the car used 4 "fusible links" for the main fuses, which were just special wires that are supposed to melt at specified current ratings (this is exactly what fuses are). A common mod is to replace the fusible link system with something more durable, hence the maxi fuse block you see here. 20 - This is your AFM (air flow meter). It uses a flap and springs to measure the speed of passing air, then uses this to guess how much air has passed. Think of a fairly primitive mass air flow sensor. 21, 22 - These knobs control the fresh air vents in the footwells. There are openings in the body under the fenders by the occupants feet with flaps controlled by these knobs. Pull to open to get a flow of fresh air into the car, especially at higher speeds. Also useful in hot weather to let the car breathe while parked. 23 - I'm not sure what those wires do, but there's an ABSOLUTELY AMAZING wiring diagram for the 77 280z available. (as well as some others) 24 - Yes 26 - These are the plugs for the lights and switches that go in the center console, which you appear to be lacking in these pictures. The hazard switch mounts in the console in front of the shifter. 32 - That's a vacuum actuator for one of the vent doors. I think that one is the recirculate door, but I'm not 100% from just pictures. An additional note on the heater system, there is a vacuum line that runs from the engine, through the firewall near the heater connections (almost behind glove box) to the vacuum valve under the dash. I would start my search there, since on my car that hose was simply cut off and that is why my vents did not move. You may also want to add a check valve to this connection so that your vents don't move whenever you have low engine vacuum (such as when you're on boost) I ended up writing a lot more than I planned to, so I hope it's helpful. If you have any more questions I'll try and answer them as best as I can, and I'm sure some other members will be here to chime in as well.
  9. L6 "K" Grind Cam?

    Electric pump only. I don't think it ever ran very well with this setup, the pistons were caked in carbon and the carbs frozen. And in response to that other thread, it can't be an earlier cam because it's internally oiled
  10. L6 "K" Grind Cam?

    I recently purchased an F54/P79 motor that is presenting me with a few mysteries and I'm wondering if I can find any insight here. Here's the story so far: The motor was pulled from a 260z with a pair of flat-top SUs and a complete factory smog system (air pump and all) Was the p79 tapped for carbs still? The inside of the motor, aside from some significant carbon on the pistons, is like new. All bearings check out, the crosshatching is still present, no sludge, it's perfect. The cam has a "K" stamped in it, clear as day, and I've never heard of a K grind. Oh, and it has an elephant oil cap. Does anyone have any info about the K grind, such as where it comes from or what it is? I've seen a few mentions online but nothing substantial.
  11. Chris Rummel's easy follow RB into Z wireing guide

    I checked archive.org for this thread and it has a few pictures cached, but not all of them. I guess it's better than nothing, right? https://web.archive.org/web/20160822221212/http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/50138-chris-rummels-easy-follow-rb-into-z-wireing-guide/
  12. HY35

    You want to lock the distributor if you are using some form of electronic timing control, such as a megasquirt. You can run megasquirt with a single coil and a distributor, much like the stock system. In this configuration, you would disable the mechanical and vacuum advance on the distributor to not change your timing since it is being controlled by the megasquirt instead. Later distributor motors, such as the Honda motors I'm most familiar with, do not have any vacuum or mechanical advance because it's all controlled by the ECU.
  13. There are a few sources for stronger stub axles, and I've also seen a number of people weld stub axles and companion flanges. Anything is possible as long as you're willing to put forth the time and/or money. http://www.modern-motorsports.com/stub-axles.html https://whiteheadperformance.com/product/whp-billet-chromoly-stub-axles-27-spline-datsun-240z-260z-280z/
  14. Alignment numbers

    I wouldn't be surprised if one or both of your front lower arms are just barely tweaked. I had to replace a bent arm when I got my car, and a lot can happen in 40+ years.
  15. L28 dual duty build

    Self tuning will only get you close. There's more to tuning than maintaining afr and advancing ignition until it pings.