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ZHoob2004 last won the day on August 23 2016

ZHoob2004 had the most liked content!

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About ZHoob2004

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    : Tucson, AZ

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  1. ZHoob2004

    A/C removal question

    The compressor and the idler pulley both mount to the same bracket, and that pulley is only there to adjust tension on the compressor. You can remove all of them with no issues. It'll be a lot more obvious once you're there looking at it.
  2. ZHoob2004

    Should I buy a 79 280zx

    This is another good reason. If nothing else, you could get a few hundred each for the motor, diff and trans. Could fairly easily make back your money and probably more.
  3. ZHoob2004


    I believe historically OEMs have avoided integrating high current drivers directly into the ECU so that when they burn out you don't have to replace or repair your ECU, just a separate ignition module. Many manufacturers use either an external ignition module or integrate them into their "smart" coil packs.
  4. ZHoob2004

    Should I buy a 79 280zx

    If you have the time, I'd buy that for $500. I probably wouldn't touch it if it needs any significant rust repair though, because again, $500.
  5. ZHoob2004

    Custom 280ZX Hood Vents

    I suppose that explains the quality difference over my home unit. I would have to make so many changes to print this that I might as well build a new printer.
  6. ZHoob2004

    Clutch pilot bearing removal

    What about welding a bolt to the bearing? You could weld a bolt/stud onto the center race and grab it with a slide hammer. Should give the same effect as a standard puller, but a little more destructive.
  7. ZHoob2004

    Clutch pilot bearing removal

    Have you tried a pilot bearing puller? https://www.autozone.com/loan-a-tools/pilot-bearing-puller-attachment/oem-clutch-pilot-bearing-puller-attachment/230517_0_0 I don't know if you have enough clearance behind there or not but you can borrow one from autozone and give it a try
  8. ZHoob2004

    75 280Z - Won't shift gears

    It's a sealed system, so if it leaks any fluid there's something wrong. Luckily the whole clutch system in these cars is easily accessible and really inexpensive to replace, so even if you do all of it you're not out much. When you've replaced the cylinder, bleed it just like you would your brakes.
  9. ZHoob2004

    Custom 280ZX Hood Vents

    Slightly off topic, but what's your printer setup and settings? Material? I'm pretty impressed by that pattern on the inside of the lenses, is that designed in or just your infill setting? Also what kind of post processing are you doing?
  10. ZHoob2004

    75 280Z - Won't shift gears

    Sounds like your clutch isn't disengaging. Get someone to push the clutch in and watch the slave cylinder/lever to see if they move. If they don't, or it moves a little, check your master cylinder for fluid and bleed out any bubbles. If it does move, then something might be wrong with clutch itself, the release bearing, or the collar.
  11. ZHoob2004

    Questions on stub axle eliminators

    A catch-all term used to refer to using a modern hub instead of the stub axle setup, such as AZC or T3 rear uprights that use bolt-on hubs.
  12. ZHoob2004

    L24 pully and belt?

    At minimum, you need a belt for your alternator and water pump (where the fan bolts onto). In this case, it looks like you are missing the water pump pulley. The belt will go around the rearmost groove on the crank and line up with the other two parts. You can do without the mechanical fan, but that would require an electric fan and control system as a replacement and from what I've seen that's more trouble than it's worth for most people.
  13. ZHoob2004

    Preparing to Paint - Any Advice?

    I've reviewed that PPG painting guide as well as a few more forums and I think I have a more solid game plan now. 0. Finish metalwork (this was sort of implied, but I'll add it here) 1. Strip, sand, grind, etc 2. Epoxy primer to seal metal 3. Filler/blocking 4. primer surfacer/more sanding 5. Seal coat of reduced epoxy 6. Base coat 7. Finish work For anyone curious, the reason epoxy is recommended before filler is because the filler is porous and can trap moisture against the bare metal, causing eventual rust under your paint. Epoxy first ensures the metal lasts as long as it possibly can. I want a tough, uniform color underneath my base coat in case of scratches or rock chips, so I'm going to reduce the epoxy and apply it as a sealer right before I shoot color, which should give me what I want while still giving me the most durable foundation possible.
  14. ZHoob2004


    That looks like a dealer installed AC kit, so I don't think that's going to be in any of the manuals
  15. ZHoob2004

    Rb26dett and AC?

    Talk to a local auto AC shop, they may be able to help you out with the conversion. I'm staying L series, but my plan is to go to a modern compressor and have some custom hoses made up that let me connect to the stock evaporator and a new condenser. I think as long as my evaporator doesn't leak I should be able to build a decent R134 system that still uses the stock controls (because it still uses the stock parts in the dash).