ZHoob2004

This is another good reason. If nothing else, you could get a few hundred each for the motor, diff and trans. Could fairly easily make back your money and probably more.

I believe historically OEMs have avoided integrating high current drivers directly into the ECU so that when they burn out you don't have to replace or repair your ECU, just a separate ignition module. Many manufacturers use either an external ignition module or integrate them into their "smart" coil packs.

If you have the time, I'd buy that for $500. I probably wouldn't touch it if it needs any significant rust repair though, because again, $500.

I suppose that explains the quality difference over my home unit. I would have to make so many changes to print this that I might as well build a new printer.

What about welding a bolt to the bearing? You could weld a bolt/stud onto the center race and grab it with a slide hammer. Should give the same effect as a standard puller, but a little more destructive.

Have you tried a pilot bearing puller? https://www.autozone.com/loan-a-tools/pilot-bearing-puller-attachment/oem-clutch-pilot-bearing-puller-attachment/230517_0_0 I don't know if you have enough clearance behind there or not but you can borrow one from autozone and give it a try

It's a sealed system, so if it leaks any fluid there's something wrong. Luckily the whole clutch system in these cars is easily accessible and really inexpensive to replace, so even if you do all of it you're not out much. When you've replaced the cylinder, bleed it just like you would your brakes.

Slightly off topic, but what's your printer setup and settings? Material? I'm pretty impressed by that pattern on the inside of the lenses, is that designed in or just your infill setting? Also what kind of post processing are you doing?

Sounds like your clutch isn't disengaging. Get someone to push the clutch in and watch the slave cylinder/lever to see if they move. If they don't, or it moves a little, check your master cylinder for fluid and bleed out any bubbles. If it does move, then something might be wrong with clutch itself, the release bearing, or the collar.

A catch-all term used to refer to using a modern hub instead of the stub axle setup, such as AZC or T3 rear uprights that use bolt-on hubs.

At minimum, you need a belt for your alternator and water pump (where the fan bolts onto). In this case, it looks like you are missing the water pump pulley. The belt will go around the rearmost groove on the crank and line up with the other two parts. You can do without the mechanical fan, but that would require an electric fan and control system as a replacement and from what I've seen that's more trouble than it's worth for most people.

I've reviewed that PPG painting guide as well as a few more forums and I think I have a more solid game plan now. 0. Finish metalwork (this was sort of implied, but I'll add it here) 1. Strip, sand, grind, etc 2. Epoxy primer to seal metal 3. Filler/blocking 4. primer surfacer/more sanding 5. Seal coat of reduced epoxy 6. Base coat 7. Finish work For anyone curious, the reason epoxy is recommended before filler is because the filler is porous and can trap moisture against the bare metal, causing eventual rust under your paint. Epoxy first ensures the metal lasts as long as it possibly can. I want a tough, uniform color underneath my base coat in case of scratches or rock chips, so I'm going to reduce the epoxy and apply it as a sealer right before I shoot color, which should give me what I want while still giving me the most durable foundation possible.

That looks like a dealer installed AC kit, so I don't think that's going to be in any of the manuals

Talk to a local auto AC shop, they may be able to help you out with the conversion. I'm staying L series, but my plan is to go to a modern compressor and have some custom hoses made up that let me connect to the stock evaporator and a new condenser. I think as long as my evaporator doesn't leak I should be able to build a decent R134 system that still uses the stock controls (because it still uses the stock parts in the dash).

Thanks for that link, that's a great looking resource. Any particular reason to recommend filler after epoxy versus the reverse? I have a white epoxy primer so I was sort of hoping to have that directly under the paint for a bit of extra brightness in the final product.

Do you mind updating this thread when you get the next batch done? I'm about to get my p79 done so I'll need a set.

OK thanks, that's really helpful. I understand the advice about not stripping it, and I'm staying far away from any chemical strippers, but there was some choice bodywork by previous shops that demanded the bare metal treatment. I'm avoiding it where the foundation is still good (not many places). I know it's a lot of information at once, and the prep is definitely where I plan to spend most of my time, effort and money. I might even have a shop do the final coats since I don't have any arrangements for a paint booth, but that's still a way off. As far as the general sequence of things, does that seem sane? And when painting a car inside and out, should I treat them as separate jobs or just spray it all in one go? The inside will be receiving significantly less prep and attention, since most will be covered. No glass or interior during painting.

Yes you could, but you would be buying a lot of extra parts if you got the complete kit. Maybe talk to MSA and see if they'll sell you the parts minus the compressor, bracket, belt and hoses and then order custom hoses online or take it to an AC shop.

Sheet metal work is just finishing up on my 77 so I'm getting ready for paint and I'd like to know my plan is decent before I commit myself any further. Car will be a driver, so I'm not looking for a showroom finish, just something nice enough to make me look back whenever I leave it in a parking lot. I don't have a paint color picked out, but I want white. Currently the plan is to use Summit's single-stage pure white. The hope is it will be easier for a beginner like me to spray and I can easily repair any mistakes or damage. Planned sequence: 1. Strip - get the car sanded to a good base with 80 grit. Feather any cracks or chips so I don't get flaking, and fully remove any questionable material. 2. Filler - Thinking of Summit again here, their "Lightweight Autobody Filler" is $17/gal. I've watched a few videos on filler and it looks like you do a nice thin skin and then block sand it back flat again. 3. Epoxy primer - Seal the whole car, inside and out. I understand I can do this before or after filler, but I think I want to do it after. I already have a gallon of this and catalyst. 4. High build primer? 5. Base coat - Single stage, so the clear/base are effectively one. 6. Color sanding - Sand up to 2000grit and then buff/polish. So a few questions: Is the Summit "system" decent quality, or am I likely to regret using their stuff? Will the chosen color look good, or will it look like I fleet truck? Is the high-build primer step essential, or does it depend on the car? Anything I should change anything about my plan, use different products, do a different order? I understand this is a lot of questions at once. I'm grateful for any amount of advice given.

If you do get rid of the ballast resistor, replace the coil as well. That coil will not survive the full 12v for more than a few hours, and can short and take your wiring with it.

Saw the transistor box and assumed it was just someone's misguided rewiring project. Now that I look I see it's worse (better?) than that. HEI seems like a good direction to go from here, but you could basically do anything because you might as well start over from scratch.

That definitely looks messed with, because that ignition box is supposed to be in the passenger footwell. Look up the ignition chapter in the FSM and also take a look at the chassis wiring diagram. The ignition isn't very complicated, so you should just be able to match up the wires and get it going. If you can get a 280zx matchbox distributor, those are even more simple to wire up and provide a nice hot spark for cheap.

How deep is that divot on the back of the master you have? You may be able to mill off that rear surface to at least that depth and get up to 1/4"

That looks extremely promising. And their mini fuse block doesn't look half bad either, so I may just go that way. Thanks for the suggestion.

The windshield is the same AFAIK (I believe it uses a different seal, but the glass is identical). Essentially, everything 100% forward of the shifter is the same, as well as the entire driveline (minus prop shaft). Everything else (may be some exceptions) is 2+2 specific.