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ZHoob2004 last won the day on August 23 2016

ZHoob2004 had the most liked content!

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About ZHoob2004

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    Tucson, AZ

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  1. boosted300's RB 240Z

    That line after the condenser is cooler than it went into the condenser, but it's still hot. Any extra cooling that line gets from not being insulated (probably pretty insignificant) only helps the performance of the system. the line you want to insulate is between the evaporator and the compressor to lower the system's overall operating temperature.
  2. Locking lugs / lost key

    If they weren't sure, they've had almost 9 years to figure it out
  3. 72' Distribution Valve

    Did you mean to say the opposite, that is removing the valve from the fitting nearest the firewall, which supplies the front brakes? The drums have a much longer throw and need residual pressure in the lines to keep the shoes closer to the drum surface.
  4. 72' Distribution Valve

    Does your new MC have a residual check valve like the original? I recall something about check valves when switching MCs and disc/drum conversions. The valves are mentioned here (not your master cylinder, I know)
  5. 1975 280z Heater Not Working

    According to the image URL, this is a diagram of a 75 Image downloaded from http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/vacuumlines/ and rehosted here for longevity One solenoid controls AC fast idle (the plunger on your intake manifold, if you still have it), and the other seems to control on/off for the whole climate control system, I'm not sure what triggers that (maybe blower switch? I have to check a diagram) The vacuum heater valve everyone is referencing is the "Vacuum cock" on this diagram, which is basically there to make sure you don't run the heater and AC at the same time.
  6. N42 Turbo Motor Build Questions

    N42 is the early L28 (75-81ish), F54 the later. It can be a bit confusing considering there are also the N42 cylinder head and intake manifold (both paired with the N42 block the first few years) As to the OPs question, I understand the N42 pistons, while they have approximately the same dish volume as the turbo version, don't have as strong of ring lands, so that's where you'll see failures if you have any detonation problems. That said, lots of people have had plenty of success running the unmodified N42 bottom end in turbo applications, and I expect you will have the same if you keep detonation under control.
  7. 280z harness removal

    280z efi harness is almost completely standalone. There are two wires connecting the ecu to the battery, and there are a few connectors under the steering column for the main relay, coil negative and fuel pump. The ignition system is also mostly self contained with the ignition module being located in the passenger footwell and, and the coil and distributor hook up near the end of the engine bay part of the chassis harness Essentially, you can remove the efi harness as one big piece without any modifications to the rest of the wiring. As for get ignition side, get a wiring diagram (search Google, the 77 one is color). You can remove the ignition module and tape, remove the wires and do the same for the distributor. Your new harness will need to connect to basically the same places (tach, ignition, fuel pump). Btw, don't take my word for this, I've not swapped my car and only glanced at the diagram, but this should get you on the right path. Use the diagram and measure twice, cut once.
  8. Replacement sheet metal

    If you need something up by the quarter glass I believe another car is the only place to get it. I went through the same thing trying to find a panel for the fuel door area of the rear quarter because a previous owner messed it up, and none of the reproduction companies made anything like that
  9. What is This?

    I've read that the n36 intake has larger runners than others, so that should give some performance increase if your motor can move the air to take advantage of it. Something similar regarding the n36 balance tube (yeah, they can be mixed and matched), it has a larger area and allows for more flow, but I can't say how much that matters with a balance tube. A "disadvantage" of this balance tube is the provisions for EGR, which are mostly cosmetic after that plate was installed. My plan is to run an n36 intake on my l28, and I'm considering cleaning up the balance tube but that will wait until after I have it driving before I spend time making it look nice.
  10. What is This?

    Isn't that just a 260z N36 intake and balance tube? You appear to have a homemade EGR delete plate, and that chunked area of thread towards the firewall is where the EGR tube from the exhaust would have connected. It doesn't do anything now, and doesn't affect anything but aesthetics by being broken. Also I'm no expert on carb spotting, but it seems like the front and rear carbs have been swapped so the float chambers are both towards the center of the motor rather than towards the ends.
  11. 240Z speedo is off

    Not sure if it's the same as your problem or not, but my speedo seems to be fairly accurate up until I get up to highway speed (about 55) at which point the scaling seems to change and it jumps up 10-30mph faster than I'm going, essentially becoming useless. My intention is to take the speedo out and give it a thorough cleaning, but it hasn't happened yet so I don't know if that's the problem or not (for the record, I'm running a 3.7 rear with the cog for a 3.54)
  12. LY28 crossflow L Series Cylinder head

    This thread is 8 years old, but the photobucket fix extension works
  13. Megasquirt Relay Board with Bosch 044 fuse blowing

    To add some further confirmation of the prefilter problem, I had cavitation issues using a stock 280z fuel pump with a Napa 3003 (WIX 33003), which is 20 micron
  14. FPR and Fuel Pressure Help

    What do you mean by this? Is it an OEM pump? Is it an aftermarket pump that looks like an OEM pump? Is it a universal aftermarket pump that looks nothing like the original? Really you shouldn't be worrying about what the specs were for the stock pump, you should get the specs for the pump you actually have (from the manufacturer). As others have said, whatever pump you have probably won't cut it once you account for boost pressure. I personally wouldn't risk it for something that is a fairly small cost in the scheme of turbo builds.
  15. I would imagine with a solid front mount and urethane bushings you won't get much out of a billet bar (at that point you probably get more flex from the bar than the bushings) or you could try and get some aluminum bushings turned up to solid mount the factory bar, but then again the bar itself might not be stiff enough at that point.