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ZHoob2004 last won the day on August 23 2016

ZHoob2004 had the most liked content!

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About ZHoob2004

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    Tucson, AZ

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  1. The windshield is the same AFAIK (I believe it uses a different seal, but the glass is identical). Essentially, everything 100% forward of the shifter is the same, as well as the entire driveline (minus prop shaft). Everything else (may be some exceptions) is 2+2 specific.
  2. ZHoob2004

    Rear Hatch Sill Replace it or wait it out.

    I contacted him to do a rear quarter replacement for which he quoted $200-300, but instead we decided to have him just pull and patch the panel that's already there plus some other miscellaneous welding. He's only doing the metalwork, no paint or filler. I haven't got the car back yet, so I can't say anything about the quality of work at this moment. I think he's going to do a good job. The welding on his projects in his garage looked excellent, and he seemed to know what he was talking about.
  3. ZHoob2004

    Rear Hatch Sill Replace it or wait it out.

    Craigslist can be a decent source for semi-pro welders. I just dropped my z off at a guy I found that way and I can't imagine he'd want more than a few hundred for that repair.
  4. ZHoob2004

    S13 Throttle Body TPS issue

    Either look up a diagram or measure it out (or just plug it in and see what happens). IIRC either one can be used as power or ground, but reversing them will reverse the direction of the sensor (making megasquirt think the throttle is closed when it's wot and vice versa)
  5. ZHoob2004

    List of S30 mods

    I haven't decided yet. I kind of want to build my own (because I hate myself) but I'm having trouble finding a way to buy wire for less than the cost of a painless harness. Really I just don't like the painless fuse block and want to go with my own setup, but I would love their labeled circuits...
  6. ZHoob2004

    List of S30 mods

    I'm in almost the same state and I'm taking the opportunity to replace (and simplify) the electrical system. I wasn't going to go so far as to put mesh under the cowl (it'll interfere with the washer nozzles and I don't want it visible) but instead I was going to make a screen sock that I can put over the air inlet to do the same job. I may make a pair of magnetic screens to put over the fresh air inlets as well to keep the foliage out of the cabin. Another mod I'm planning is to remove the factory heater valve and replace it with a vintage air servo heater valve, then figure out some way to control that using the stock heater controls. https://www.jegs.com/i/Vintage-Air/960/461171/10002/-1
  7. ZHoob2004

    74 260z 5.3 resto mod

    Add some heat. Heat the spindle pin until it's red hot, then let it cool down. Should tap right out after that. The diff mount is interesting. It looks like the mount was tearing/tore through completely so they wrapped it in cable (and used longer bolts?) to solid mount the nose of the diff. You might want to switch to a RT style top mount since your oem mount is probably gone.
  8. ZHoob2004

    Distributor wire frayed

    The wires broke off on mine, so I ended up using one similar to this (I think it's supposed to be for an F100 or something) https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/ECHIH200 Basically any large-ish capacitor will work. It's not expressly necessary for the car to function, but as mentioned it helps to clean up electrical noise and reduces interference in the tach and radio.
  9. Your eyes can tell you if a fuse is bad, but they can't tell you if a fuse is good. Use an ohmmeter in continuity check to make sure. That fuse could be 40+ years old and simply come detached inside one of the caps.
  10. ZHoob2004

    L Series Rebuild or Nah

    I've never done it myself, but word on the street is you can dissolve steel bolts out of aluminum heads with an alum/water solution. It'll take a day or so to work, but should leave you with perfect factory threads and none of the headache of drilling.
  11. ZHoob2004

    240z retrostat removal

    The dash lights are on the same circuit as the marker lights, tail lights, and front running lights. All of these pass through the combination switch and out a single (rather small) wire in one of the connectors. On my car, that pin on the connector is heavily corroded and the whole thing gets pretty hot due to all the current. For troubleshooting, figure out what all doesn't work and trace the power from the source.
  12. ZHoob2004

    NEW OWNER: 75 280Z w/ LT1

    Could be the regulator or it could be the check valve in the fuel pump. I'm not knowledgeable enough to advise beyond this point.
  13. ZHoob2004

    280z 302 sbf swap

    The maxima has been FWD since 1984, so the differential won't be any use to you.
  14. ZHoob2004

    NEW OWNER: 75 280Z w/ LT1

    More than zero. Look at the gauge before you turn the key, then again when it's running. You want as little difference as possible between them.
  15. ZHoob2004

    180 Degree L28ET Intake

    For clarity with my comment about heat absorbed by fuel, I'm assuming that all fuel is vaporized and/or burned due to chamber heat/pressure by the time it reaches the exhaust port. Essentially, more fuel should always lead to lower EGT (from which we infer chamber temperature), and where the fuel enters the system shouldn't really matter as far as heat absorption. At the same time, entry point and atomization do have effects on power and efficiency, where it is most often relevant. Another angle on this: when running water/meth injection, does it really matter where in the intake tract it's being injected? My understanding was it's the phase change that's responsible for the cooling effect (AC for your combustion chambers), and there's plenty of heat/pressure change for this to occur. Another, another angle: if it doesn't run cool enough there's always water/meth injection