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About hooahh3

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    N. Augusta, SC
  1. DELETE this. actually got lucky and found 1.
  2. Ive checked everywhere I can on forums, got an ls1 intake but didn't realize the entire map sensor bung was missing out the back....it was dark, I was in a hurry, I screwed up!!!! These pieces aren't sold individually so its either find one or get a new intake....fml So if anyone has one please get up with me, I know this should be in parts wanted, but most people skip over that section or it gets buried very quickly in all the other listings....and im desperate at this point, cant go any further with out this. Gonna have to scrounge a whole new intake if I cant find this stupid little &^*m piece that GM decided to never sell alone, making people buy new intakes defiantly makes more money....
  3. So im running the tourque app for gauges in the 280Z with 5.3/4l60e swap. Due to my old tablet dieing I have to get a new one and reload the app. Cant get to old app or data. Same problem as last time, standard oil pressure guage doesn't work for the car. Last time I was able to find one online that worked but for the life of me I cant find it again. 221470 and 22115c do not work. Is there anyone out there who has run into this problem and has the right pid that I can program in? Also if anyone has this running, what all extras and setup do you have? App will do a lot of stuff, a lot of it is not working on mine, probably due to the swap and reflashing and stuff. Maybe its just a PID setup problem on my end though. Always up to see others work. Any help would be appreciated, kinda need to know the oil pressure obviously. lol Its a 2006 GMC Savanah ECM flashed by LT1swap.com if that matters any.
  4. I did the re wiring on it. well i stripped down the stick harness and cleaned it up. The PCM is different then the original, had to get one that's run DBC. So i'll check that out, i did swap around two coils to T/S the miss' sand so far it seems to be good. Still pops on decel though. i just haven't had time to mess with it lately. Transmission has been getting all the attention
  5. I was wondering if anyone in the area has hptuners and wouldn't mind helping me out. Got the car running but i'm sure it needs a tune from the stock one. I'd definitely be up for buying the credits to do it and throwing some money in for the time and effort if anyone has the software already. Thanks for any help
  6. if what i've learned about the GV overdrive is right, it should be do able with just the push button switch. Manual valve body in the PG. go first hit button for GV move to 2nd and hit button to turn off GV at same time hit button again when 4th is needed Don't exactly quote me on this as i've only been able to piece together this information; i'd like to do a GV myself but can't do the 2500$ for one any time soon. so the 4l60E is staying around awhile longer. It would be awesome to have the full manual aspect though. especially an auto/manual for just cruising around
  7. ok so i've basically narrowed it down to when it's wheel driving the engine. Any coasting that put the engine being driven by the back tires, really bad down hill. So that would put it on the i take and exhaust system right? Both are very free flowing and it's just sucking in more air then the computer can compensate for on a stock tune during coasting and engine braking. Right??? Seem to be re thinking every thing i thought i knew here with this damn problem. lol
  8. Ls1 pcm

    Inside engine bay, where the old clutch cylinder was, right beside the brake master cylinder under that inspection panel. It works with the stock GM harness i have(5.3l truck) and i just wrapped all the wires in loom and it looks decent, no show car completely clean engine bay here with me.
  9. I can read the voltage for them both but not the actual AFR. There new stock type narrow bands. Im just trying figure out what could throw both banks off together, always both banks. Maybe two bad O2 sensors, both purchased brand new for this engine though.
  10. Ok guys, need some ideas here. Got the 5.3 (2005 w/4l60e) running and driving but its giving me P0171 and P0174 codes; Both banks lean. The tourqe app im using also picked up cylinder 1, 7, & 8 misfires ranging from 14-24 times. It will run great, but if I get on it hard or floor it and let off, it pops and shoots me some flames out the exhaust (both very considerably!) then throws the codes Ive changed knock sensors and that code is gone Swapped in good MAF sensor and that went away (new one of those bought tomorrow) Done a TB gasket Checked Fuel pressure at rail. Holding at 60+ psi for full throattle range ( only parked though, not able to check while driving) Tried to spray for any leaks and couldn't find any vacuum leaks At this point im down to swapping around those 3 coils, will swap the wires around too if that doesn't give me anything, or then swapping the injectors around. Run a compression test next if that doesn't work. Im about 80% certain the lean condition is coming from those missfires Has anyone had and fixed this problem with something other then what I have/will try? Im kinda out of ideas if the coils/injectors/compression doesn't turn up anything. Unfortuantly ls1tech crashes on my browser so im SOL on that wealth of knowledge. Cant read shit when its freezing and reloading every 3 minutes.
  11. true, re reading my post I kinda didn't ask the simple question I should have. does the water pump turn clockwise or ccw? from what I can gather its suppose to be clockwise from the factory right?, the crank and water pump are supposed to spin opposite directions correct? (this as facing the engine from front of car)
  12. so im finishing up my 5.3 install, come to a snag with the serpentine belt though. deleted powersteering and that messed up my belt routing. Ive seen peoples routing of it without but set up like that it makes the pump run backwards direction from original. my question is, A ) will these pumps run backwards or universal I guess you could say B ) if not, then how are you guys running it to get it to work right w/o power steering pulley there? thanks for any help
  13. Personally i'm in the middle of my build now with dirty dingo. Product looks great, offers a lot of adjustment forward/aft ( almost 2" i'd say) they bolt in to the exsisting eng mount studs on the crossmember. could also weld them up afterwards if you wanted i suppose. They can be ordered with a wrinkle black finish and we're like 170-180$ shipped iirc. as far as tranny mounts go, idk i made my own. a lot cheaper and a lot more sturdy to me. 3/16th plates and angle iron and 3/4 square tube and bolted thru the frame rails Headers are stockers that have been worked over to custom fit. after i decide turbo or supercharged i'll make my own custom headers or not. Idk right off hand any set of headers that have been proven to work with DD mounts in the 280 and clear steering with no work.
  14. I just got it in. at work away from home till tuesday. i'll post a pic of it on here when i get home. If you wanted to just make the old pickup tube work instead of buying 1. it'd be a really good deal. it was easier to just buy mine though. 260$ for the whole kit is a good deal. did you buy that from a company on ebay?
  15. Ok. so put one on it. Now the hunt is on for 1. that will fit and work and not be a real PITA to get hooked up and mounted. has anyone tried or had any luck with the tube style coolers? plate style with a fan is the best but if i can't get one of those to go might have to use a tube style. Radiator will not have one. its just a old recored unit for now to get it driving. also, what are the fitting sizes for the lines down there? gonna need to screw in some 90* fittings and get rid of gm's clip style connections for sure. she's tucked up tight to the tunnel, no room for that style hook up