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Jazz86

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About Jazz86

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    Los Angeles

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  1. I have been having so many issues tuning my triple OER/SK dcoe 40 carbs. I recently bought these carbs secondhand. I have been running into issues with idle speed, and synchronizing. The car runs very rough and the engine shakes quite a bit. Problem #1 I attempted to synchronize all three of the carbs but ran into many issues. The carb (#2) in the middle seems to be drawing in a lot of air compared to the carb (#1) and carb (#3). This is with all the carbs set to the same idle speed screw distances. I suspect that carb #2 has a bent throttle shaft or butterfly, but the butterfly opens smoothly with no obstructions. I also checked for vacuum leaks and there doesn't seem to be any. Problem #2 When I put the synchronize tool onto any of the carbs the idle drops and the carb drools fuel everywhere, like a toddler drooling. I am not sure if that is normal or not. Every carb seems to do that when I hold the tool up to the throat. Also when I hold up the sync tool to carb#2 the engine almost dies out. Desperately, trying to find a solution I have to increase the idle speed of #1 and #3 in order to match the flow of #2. This resulted in a super high idle speed of about 2000rpm. Problem #3 Carb #2 seems to also be running much leaner than the others. I had to turn the idle mixture screws a few more turns than #1 and #3. please any advice is welcome.
  2. Tried blue locktite on them and they seem to be holding on well. If those ever come loose again I will get new lock washers and clean up the threads a lot more thoroughly. As for the tire letters those were using one of those tire makers, they tend to yellow and fade the harder I drive. However, all my friends seem to like the slightly faded look, they say it gives a touch of patina ... as if the car didn't have enough patina.
  3. The car is running some custom springs on the front it sits approximately 1.2 inches lower than stock, and I have tokico lowering springs 5020R rear and that sits 1.0 inches lower than stock. Strut cartridges are kyb struts. I am running poly LCA bushings on the front and solid and delrin on the rear.
  4. Will do. I am going to try blue lock-tight on it.
  5. Hey guys, So I recently bought some goodies for my 240z and I thought I'd share some of my experiences with these products. All from T3 or technotoytuning; I got their NCRA (negative camber roll center adjusters) and their camber/toe bushings as they seem beefier that the ones offered from MSA. Starting with the NCRA, I wanted to gives these a try to gain some much needed camber on the front axle of my 240z. The installation was pretty straight forward, much like your normal bumpsteer spacer installation with a few added steps. I already had bumpsteer spacers and those were great but I wanted some camber and these did just the trick. Effects of NCRA: 1. Camber has jumped from -0.7(stock with 1.2 inch lowering) to -2.5 2. Front ride height has decreased about 0.7 inches (this has to do with a longer lever and a different angle with the top of the strut tower) But the shock travel is nearly the same. 3. The steering response is a lot better and the car turns in great 4. Braking has been negatively effected as I lock up my front wheels quicker (smaller contact patch) 5. corning grip has gone up a lot (though it has become more of a handful to drive) Moving on to the Camber/toe bushings. These are really poorly designed, almost an after thought from T3. But they can be made to work. The installation took a bit of time because you have to take off the traverse bolts, and fiddle with the mounts. I did not have to take off the mounts completely, I loosened them enough to slip the bushings through. After the install I found out about how little thought was put into designing them. The bushings facing the front of the car has almost zero room to access the for adjustment. The bushings facing the rear are easy to adjust. However, here comes my struggles with these stupid bushings. They are solid aluminum with delrin inserts. These damn things just vibrate the crap out of those traverse bolts and they always get loose, thankfully they will still hold any measurement because they are clamped down by the control arm mounts. I am still constantly having to tighten them and you can feel when they get loose, because the rear will start to loose grip and you can hear clunking. Unless I can get my traverse bolts 100% tight I currently have a slightly "variable wheel base" . Effects of camber bushings: 1. Toe is fully adjustable to 0.7 toe out or in biased on your preferences 2. Camber is tricky to adjust as camber adjusts with toe and they are proportional. Max camber I could get was about -2.0but this gave me really stupid toe. 3. bitch to adjust front facing bushings 4. makes the ride stiffer as these are almost solid bushings I took the car to get aligned and the shop guy couldn't figure out anything with my 240z... prob to old for him to know how it worked and yet a 21 year old knows. So what do you do when sloppy mechanics get their hands on your car. you fix it yourself. TIME FOR DIY HOME ALIGNMENT hot rod style. I will make a post on how to do this. But take my word for it, this type of alignment is not bad at all. I had a different friend check for me using a modern laser machine and he came back to me with the shock of his life and said "you did THIS accurate of an alignment in your garage, tying to put me outta business haha"? Final Alignment specs: Front: Toe Driver side: -0.07 degrees (toe out) Camber Driver side: -2.5 degrees Toe Passenger: -0.07 degrees (toe out) Camber Passenger: -2.3 deg Caster Driver: 3.0 Degrees Caster Pass: 2.7 Degrees Rear: Toe Driver: +0.12 deg (toe in) Camber driver: -1.5 deg Toe Pass: +0.13 def (toe in) Camber Pass: -1.3 deg
  6. SO, more of an update I drove the car around and it is 100X better than before. The car is a lot more comfortable. Back then the coils would bind and I would loose grip and the car would simply under-steer. Also my braking feel seems to have improved since there is actually suspension travel on the front. If anyone has problems with their tokico springs (very few) please give this a try. I just used my tiny little dremel to slowly grind away without heating up the metal too much. I will continue to drive this set up on multiple road surfaces and report back. Recalculating my spring rates I seem to have made the front end stiffer tokico Spring rate : 140lbs/inch Moog 80099 CUT: 160lbs/inch This does put a bit of fear in me since I am running equal rates front and rear but I will continue road testing and track testing this setup.
  7. My tokico springs would bind before I would hit my bump stop. I seem to have gotten the batch that had the issues with coil bind. See my first attached photo, there is very little room and I marked the travel distance. The car had less than an inch of bump travel, since the coils would lock up. Yes, I have bump stops installed they are super small and tucked at the top.
  8. I did have that in my calculations but I never thought to post it since my messy chicken scratch is almost unreadable . My car is a s30 with 240z strut tubes and 240z hubs.
  9. That was my problem when I was running the old tokico lowering springs. I like the height but the springs would have less than an inch before coil binding, meaning my spring rate when to infinity. I bought them for about 50 dollars on amazon.
  10. Hey, everyone I finally got to finalizing my spring cutting. I had to cut an additional half coil to get my ride height back to what it was with the tockico lowering springs. It sits exactly the same as it did before switching to Moog springs. If any of you want I can post my calculations.
  11. Like many people with the tokico lowering springs have the issue of the front binding. The first photo is the red tokico 5020F that has less than one inch of bump travel. It rode worse than solid Pogo stick. So I looked far and wide for a fix. The rear end of the car is fine, tons of travel. I got the dimensions and the tokico springs and the spring rates. I found out a few springs that fit and found that MOOG 80099 fit. But they need to be cut to match the 140lbs/in rate of the tokicos. I cut the first dead coil and 2 active coils. And if my math is right the rate is close. I will update it when it settles after a nice long drive. (11,250,000*Wire diameter^4)/(8*numberofcoils*meancoildiameter^3)=spring rate first photo: old wornout tokico 5020F second photo: side by side moog spring and tockico third photo: cut moog spring fourth photo: on the car
  12. Thanks, that was very informative. The reason for the washers behind the calipers in because of the T3 hub to rotor spacer was a little thick then expected. Looking at past forum posts the spacer seems to be just a hair thicker than others. That seems to be the cause. When I put the calipers on the rotor would touch the calipers. I prefer not to trim the spacers.
  13. I wanted to try to upgrade my brakes mainly the S12+8 caliper. However, I ran into so many problems because I tried to piece it together with parts from friends and things I could find on a budget. After a long time of trouble shooting here are my problems that I ran into. All parts needed will be highlighted. 1. The 240z stock brakes S line. These won't fit any set of calipers you get from sumitomo/toyota ones. You will need to bend them but I just chose to delete it. I bought myself some braided brake hose with AN-3 leads and M10x1.0 FEMALE adapters since that's the thread and shape s12w, 12+8, stock etc use. (2) Brake hose -3AN straight to straight M10x1.0 female inverted to AN-3 male AN-3 male to M10x1.0 male inverted 2. What calipers did my friend just give me !!!! I was given some S12+8 VENTED calipers. This lead to ALL of my headaches. Thanks Man!!! Some people say that the (S12+8 vented) and (s12+8 non vented) are the same casting but I think that they are slightly different. What that means, simply, the calipers poke out more than your stock ones and the non-vented s12. This made me need wheel spacers because I am running the 14x6 0 offset slotted mag wheels. (Depends) Wheel Spacers for fitment 3. I ran stock 240z rotors (I have the stock hubs *they are finned*). BUT and this is a big full bodied BUTT. My dumb butt was reading the wrong build. So I had this horrible pad to rotor clearance. I could drive it but the pistons on the calipers were almost popping out. LOOK AT ATTACHMENT ONE AND TWO. 4. S12+8 vented needed different rotors and those rotors needed a spacer. So basically I am forced to upgrade to vented rotors... oh what a shame . I ordered some TechnoToyTuning spacers. This is a warning for (S12+8 Vented) people, if you buy the (S12+8vented) you are now doing the same build as s12W guys. Brake Hub Spacers 300zx rotors 1984 model LOOK AT ATTACHMENT 3 AND 4. ANITSIEZE the SH*T out of surfaces that touch The bolts provided with the Techo spacers where way too short. So had to buy new hub bolts. The thread for the hub bots are M10x1.25 length of depends. I got 40mm. 5. Interesting fact about S12+8 calipers. So some say that the castings are the same THEY ARE NOT!!!! Look in the attachments. I have pics showing what I mean. I have mixed calipers. Attachment 5 is considered a (S12+8vented) caliper and this shares the same casting as the (NONvented12+8) but notice the metal spacer in between the two sided(circled in red). This means that the caliper will stick out more and may interfere with your wheels and stock rotors will not work well. Attachment 6 shows a caliper without the spacer but it is also an S12+8 vented. This means the castings although are stamped the same they are different. 6. LASTLY........... You will need washers to put behind the caliper mounting brackets about 2mm (depends on clearance) (4) Washers to space out caliper TOTAL COST 250$ AND A HUGE HEADACHE
  14. I brought out my camera and thought I would take some photos of the inside of my L24. Its almost stock. Tell me what you think...
  15. Hello from California!

    Hello everyone, I just bought a 1973 Datsun 240z. I thought I'd just say hi. The car was in good condition when I bought it, some scuffs and rough areas but it runs well. This is my first datsun so I'll be reading a lot of posts from here.
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