sectumsempra

This is great!

Show and go. Although I just got word back that the front track width with 25" inner rails would be 55.25"... So I'm already second guessing this as I am trying to shoot for 58.26", which is S14 track width. I should add that I know very little about suspension geometry, and how much of a difference it will all make, but I am trying to build a supreme handling and driving car.

As far as I know, you can mount the motor pretty much anywhere you like before the rack. There is a guy with a Cobra kit car on youtube that has it mounted inside the engine bay. A local machine shop should be able to make you a shaft to fit for a "reasonable" sum. Even if it's pricey, it would still be cheaper than $1000.

If you click on the mustang forum link that I borrowed the majority of this text from, they lay it out pretty well. It would definitely take some patience and parts matching to get the splines to match up and length correct, but it's pretty much stick one thing through the other thing on the way to the steering rack, connect some wires, and bada bing! There are some other threads on this site that I had missed with smarter guys than me making it work, also. You can search "electric steering" and they will come up.

I'm heavily considering putting a roadster shop fast track front cross member in my 75 280Z. They make one for 25" inside frame rails, and the track width would be right around 1480mm which is the front track width of an S14. For the rear, I am going with S14 subframe, which will be a 1470mm track width. Frame rails will be replaced with box tubing, and tied in to the rear frame with box tubing as well. Now, BESIDES THE COST, are there any reasons to not use this crossmember? Are there better performing options for cheaper that I've missed, besides fabricating my own? Thank you. http://roadstershop.com/product/crossmember/fast-track-ifs-crossmember/

Typically I would say build the car first. Then take it all apart, fix all the rust and body issues, and put it back together. That way you're not cutting into your freshly done bodywork when you change your mind about something... But then again, my ADD is always making me do it anyway, and I end up building it a few times over. YMMV

If you're handy enough to install the $1500 Z power steering kit, you're probably handy enough to save $1400 and make your own. You need an Electric Power Steering Column from following vehicles which are manufactured by Koyo: Saturn Vue - from 2002 to 2007 Chevrolet Equinox - from 2005 to 2007 Saturn Ion - from 2003 to 2006 - only in steering column with metal ECU case. And this: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Saturn-Vue-Ion-Chevrolet-Equinox-Electric-power-steering-controller-box-EPAS-/182008071875?vxp=mtr (ebay seller: brunolopesantunes in case link goes dead) If you have an aftermarket ecm, megasquirt, etc with a vehicle speed sensor, you can even wire it in to adjust automatically to your settings at speed, if it will output variable resistance. Sorry, no pics. I have a million things to do to my Z before I worry about electric power steering. But there are plenty of other forums with write ups, and youtube videos demonstrating the concept. (disclosure: portions of text copied from http://forums.vintage-mustang.com/)

Confirmed! 1975 280Z Hooked my 91 Honda civic motor up today with jumpers, and this is 100% correct. Bump this thread. Save yourself 30 pages of reading Mist, delay, low, high, and park. All work. This should work for any S30, 73 and up. Thanks ya'll!

I'll add, I think you should go with Delrin. But if not, I can machine some myself.

Cool. I was gonna do the same thing. But if you're already working on them, I'll gladly buy your mounts instead.

I'd also like to know what you did to center the wheel. Considering going the 8.8 route instead of r230

Is there a waiting list to get one of these, or just built to order eventually?

Please excuse the specific title and non issue. I'm hoping if I post this on a forum, and somebody else is having the same issue they're googling, they can avoid my headaches. This is also a cautionary tale on why it's good to have a new set of eyes after you've developed tunnel vision... My 75 280 was running rich as hell, and it was driving me nuts. This is the list of things I had already done to get to about 10 minutes ago. Originally the car had a terrible stumble and front fire, and was near impossible to start. Tank looked like a relic from the Titanic, so that was pulled and boiled. In the meantime I did all this stuff below. I had just reinstalled my fuel tank after having it boiled out and coated. All new vapor lines. All new fuel hose and FI clamps. All new hose on injectors. Fram G1 before tank. New MSD fuel pump. New fuel filter. All new silicone Vacuum lines everywhere. Soldered in all new connections to every sensor on the engine. (Soldering is my bag. They were done to NASA specs) Voltage and resistance checked on everything that can be read with a multimeter. Valve lash adjusted cold. All new NGK plugs gapped. Timing is fine. Running a tank with 10 gallons of gas and half a bottle of redline SI-1 through the engine. Car starts immediately on the first click. Runs strong. perfectly for about 10 seconds. Then it starts running super rich, blowing huge clouds out the back. Plugs are fouled to failure in about 2 minutes... Clean plugs. Verify Water Temp sensor resistance cold. Try again. Same results. Buy new plugs. Buy new Water temp sensor. Same results. Shut off car before ruining brand new plugs. Pull plugs. Wet and turning dark black. Starting to think my ignition is weak as advancing the timing does little to help. Think about it all night. Check cold start valve in vain even though that makes little sense, because your cousin suggests it, and he's a better mechanic than you. Then it hit's me... Switch the connections for the thermo time switch and the WTS... Whammo. Car runs like a top. So, Z friends... If you're going crazy trying to fix a problem you know the solution for, and it doesn't solve the problem, you're solving it wrong. Think about the stupid variables that you looked over for whatever the reason may be. There's no shame in asking for a new set of eyes. You knew what was wrong, you're just overthinking it. Hope this helps some people. And if you think I'm onto something with this post to help random googlers with a similar problem, go ahead and leave a comment to get it up there in the search results. Bottom line: If you're running rich, 99% chance it's the water temp sensor.

Just found this thread... Mind. Blown. Chop is absolutely perfect. Looks factory, which is the best result you could possibly have. Can't wait to see how you sort out the trim and the glass. Now I'm thinking about chopping one!

Update: it dawned on me today that the nut on the other side of the bolt on the hatch strut mount might not be welded on... After gouging my otherwise mint panel and vinyl... I am dumb. Thanks 88dangerdan!

I considered that, but it's catching against the hatch strut mount itself, and that bolt is welded on. :/

Is there a secret to getting this out without gouging the panel or the vinyl on the strut towers? Not having any luck here... Removed the sail panel and the tail light bulbs. Front part will not come free without damaging something. Trying to get my filler neck out to get boiled with my tank Monday morning. I've been up for awhile, so I might be missing something stupid obvious...

I'm definitely in. I've been pulling my hair out trying to figure how I was going to piece together a good system by myself. I would be extra excited if it could use ridetech's shockwave with the internal ride height sensors.

What's the cooling capacity on this? How is it holding up? How do you think it would do with a 600hp LS3?